Here is a list of all the postings Speedy Builder5 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How Accurate Are Low Cost Digital Calliper Micrometers?|
I have a low cost caliper, problem is that the battery drains away when not in use. I can't get much more than 6months out of the battery - unless I take it out each time! Anyone else have this problem ?
|Thread: What is this ?|
This reminded me of a friend of mine. Whilst he was finishing his final year as an apprentice, the factory went bust, but to get his certificate, he worked the last couple of months (Cash in hand) stripping various machines and exporting them. On the last few machines, there were lots of bits 'spare' and as the shop floor had to be cleared, they went on the inventory as "odding bars" Which translated was any sodding bars left. I think that perhaps my friend's son packed your mill up for you.
|Thread: Soft iron rivets|
If they have been annealed in a reducing atmosphere (as they should be) then they will be scale free and soft. Ask for a sample and try to set them cold. Make sure you have the correct length. I was taught to use material thicknes + rivet dia x 1.5 for the length of rivet. It is important to start with the cut end of the rivet perfectly square with the shank, and use a heavy hammer and strike the rivet no more than 3 times. More than three times and the steel will have work hardened - same true for aluminium !
I have just bought a load of copper rivets from Sapphire products co uk and they were a nice bunch to deal with.
|Thread: A simple question|
It could be the reason why windscreen wipers only break down in the rain. I guess your steam engine does not get steam in the right place at the right time. Like most engines - its a matter of timing.
|Thread: Bending without bending rolls|
I would bend the cladding first then
You could use a Dremel type grinderette - but wear goggles as copper in the eye is VERY DANGEROUS.
If you had the Dremel jigsaw attachment, that may work, but its a bit expensive just for 1 job.
Thanks guys - I have plenty of lime stone to neutralise the hydrochloric and start again with sulphuric acid.
I have been using diluted 38%Hydrochloric acid for pickling copper. We use it to alter the Ph in swimming pools. Seems to work well.
I needed to remove some heavy calcium deposits on plastic tube, so used the pickle.
Now, when I use the pickle, it cleans the copper, but leaves it a dark straw / brown colour. As a scourer, I use the wife's stainless steel scourer, and have switched to a green scouring pad.
Has the dissolved calcium in the pickle caused this new problem ? Any chemists among us ?
|Thread: SPEEDY 5inch boiler stays|
Does anyone own a Speedy who could have a look at their backhead/ fire door plate and count the number of stays please ?
Can anyone help. Following LBSC's writings in the MAP book 1978 and sheet 5 'Mechanics' there are no dimensions for placing the 1/8" stays on the backhead / fire/door plate. Reading from the text, there are 47 stays each side of the firebox, 6 in the throat plate (All OK so far) and 3 in the wrapper. Now by my interpretation these would be in the backhead / door plate - BUT 3 do not look like enough. 1/8" stays are drawn at between 3/4 to 11/16" pitch. Thus there should be at least 10 to support the doorplate.
Can anyone shed a bit more light on the positioning of these stays? I intend to use 1/8" copper rivets and silver solder in place instead of using 5Ba/1/8 x 26 as specified in the drawings / text.
|Thread: DIY drive belt|
Why don't you use a toothed belt turned inside out ?
|Thread: 1/4 inch number 1 woodscrews|
Thanks guys, looks like expotools is the one for me.
|Thread: Recycling aluminium|
I don't know, but I had the same thoughts about melting down brass taps and fittings etc. Is it worth the gas ?
|Thread: 1/4 inch number 1 woodscrews|
I am trying to find a source of tiny woodscrews. Making dolls house stuff, and trying to find a supplier of about 50 countersunk brass woodscrews 1/4 inch #1. These are about 1.2mm in diameter. Currently I am using 10Ba screws, but not the best for holding in wood.
|Thread: Bandsaw Blades|
Umm thanks for the advice, was really looking for some redundant stock at a good price.
Some time ago, I bought 2 packs of continuous blade of different tpi. I make the blades by feathering the ends and silver soldering the joints. I seem to have a lot of friends who like my home made blades, but now I can't find a cheap source of the continuous blade. Any ideas ?? (besides not helping my friends).
|Thread: wind up torch|
How about stripping one down and incorporate into a dolls house - green energy, and after a few turns - delighted grandaughter.
|Thread: Machining Crankshaft|
When I made a 5" twin, I was advised to leave each end of the bar on at full diameter, and mark and centre drill the centers for each journal and the centre of the main journal. Then you just turn each journal between centres. You will need a great big lump of lead to balance the setup - make this out of folded lead sheet so you can easily chop off a bit to get the balance and hold it onto the chuck with some long jubilee clips - or two or three joined together(get biguns from a logstove centre or boat shop). You end up with a crankshaft with a big washer at each end which can be used for the output shaft(s) once the big ends were finished. Another tip was to remove as much material by milling it away, but I didn't do this.
Mind you it did make the Boxford rattle a bit. I was using normalised En8 and carbide tooling. Between the webs, I made an extra long tool and mounted a carbide tip on the end of it.
Plenty of coolant and elastoplast for the burns on your hands. Good luck
Edited By Robert Humphrey on 05/02/2012 16:50:37
You will probably find the old one more accurate than the new one - I lost my favourite screwdriver for several years, bought a replacement, then found my old favourite - Don't use the new one now !!
|Thread: One screw two directions, same time|
The top of most fly press machines have both the coarse pitch for raising/lowering the press tool and a fine thread for the 'nut' which limits the travel of the tool.
|Thread: Rep Rap|
|Thanks for all the suggestions and indeed offers of help. The job is for my son in Oz who wants to 'brand' surfboards with his own motif. Another novel method that he has now used, was to do a lino cutting, of the motif and company name etc, then taking a plaster imprint, clean up an then cast in aluminium. Apparently it gets hot enough to scorch without melting.|
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