Here is a list of all the postings Speedy Builder5 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Stepper Motor Protection|
Thanks Joe - I can sleep easy at nights now ! I can disengage the drive from the leadscrew, but I guess there will always be the time when you forget.
The project has been quite an education in both C+ programming and learning technical French for the supply of parts and stepper motors.
I have a Stepper controller DM556Y connected to a NEMA 23, 4.3 amp Stepper motor, in turn connected to an Arduino feeding the X axis of a Warco Economy mill. All OK so far.
Question. If the whole unit was powered off and the stepper motor rotated by still being connected to the X axis leadscrew, would the current generated by the stepper motor feed back and damage the stepper motor controller ?
|Thread: Help needed, can't release cast iron wheel|
Just another thought - they come slowly these days. I doubt the wheel is shrunk onto the shaft as there is a bearing behind it, so there must be a pin or set screw holding the wheel to the shaft and some sort of key. Assuming this is the wheel driven by the motor? Clean up the outer boss of the wheel and look for some sort of pin underneath all that paint.
If the wheel IS shrunk onto the shaft, it was never intended to come off and you would have to remove the shaft with the wheel attached by removing pulleys etc from the other side. If it was shrunk on, you would need a heavy press to get it off, not a puller.
I assume that after carefully tightening the puller, heating the hub gently and re-tighteming, you gave the head of the puller screw a good thwack with a 4Lb hammer. Light taps won't do anything. It looks like you have a good purchase on the hub, so the puller must be done up VERY tight - I don't think there is much risk of breaking the hub like that.
|Thread: Boxford electrical problem|
looking at other Brook Crompton labels (KP7575), the power is marked in Watts on the left hand side of the second line of the typed printing.
Unfortunately, the KP7575 is the part number of a blank label and doesn't help to identify the motor.
Your label shows 240 volts 1425 rpm, single phase, IP 22 and 40degrees C max
I think I can see the wattage marked at 550 watts which is a 3/4 Hp motor ?? as Noel said above.
My Boxford AUD has a 3/4 Hp motor which is adequate, but lacks power for really heavy cuts but good for most of the time.
Edited By Speedy Builder5 on 06/03/2021 14:56:08
|Thread: Ancient Skills|
This was the question:
How did the Romans produce multiple sets of dies .
I wonder how hard the dies would have to be for gold, would bronze have been hard enough?
Swords were made of "steel" and engraved - had they perfected acid etching enough to make dies of steel?
|Thread: Moving warco gh universal into workshop|
Visit you local weight lifting gym - ask for 4 strong men, 2 x strong timbers + straps and carry it up there. You can be the "Banksman".
|Thread: Boxford electrical problem|
Graham, search this site "Link Belts" - DO NOT BUY CHEAP is my advice - you get what you pay for.
|Thread: Cutting Oil Fumes|
As an apprentice at Weybridge, we used to pass through the heavy machine shop (Undercarridges and engine beams etc) on our way up to the canteen - loved the smell of that thick brown neat oil the food wasn't too bad either!
|Thread: Generator model|
Wasn't it something like:
Eddy Current found Milli Watt in a Field ?
|Thread: Inverted parting tool|
What will stop the saddle lifting off of the bed ?
Is the chuck a screw on one ? if so, what stops the chuck unscrewing ?
|Thread: Silver Soldering help - crankshaft|
What pickle, did you pickle hot or cold?
For me, the brick behind your flame would have been more effective it it were closer to the work, so that the flame "licked" around the workpiece.
|Thread: RCD Tripping|
Hmmm! I had a similar problem on my mill the other day. 3/4 Hp single phase capacitor start. After two resets of the RCD, no further problems. It was cold in the workshop, 4 degrees C, but not unusual winter temperatures.
|Thread: A milling anomaly|
Let's assume the cutter thread is the same as the collet Ie not a metric diameter sitting in an imperial collet.
|Thread: Is an internet connection essential to run Ardunio programs|
Yes, you can , follow this link Arduino binary files
I have never done this, but it looks possible
Edited By Speedy Builder5 on 22/02/2021 20:48:34
|Thread: Power supply - panic|
Ps - and yes, it was set for 240v input (not 110).
Driving LEDs - It was advertised for Stepper motors.
Bought a 36 volt power supply for a stepper motor, also using a buck converter to make the 12 volts for the Arduino. The 12 volts was working OK, but before wiring to the stepper, checked the PSU o/p which showed a voltage of 100v DC, tried adjusting it down, but it stayed at 100.
Was getting to think about contacting supplier (China) and left disconnected on the bench overnight. Next day, re-checked and O/p voltage was now 38 volts and could be adjusted OK.
Could the supply have been tested at source leaving a capacitor well charged up ?.
|Thread: Belt tension|
I contacted the supplier - My belt is a 'double tooth synchronous' and the pulleys are simple tooth. Different belt type required.
Thanks for the information folks.
A whole new world of confusion. Round teeth, double teeth simple teeth.
I am adding a stepper motor drive to the Warco Economy mill x axis. All going well however, how tight should the toothed belt be ?
I have 5mm pitch by 10mm wide pulleys, but when I put a 5mm pitch x 9mm wide belt onto the pulleys, the belt doesn't sit well and skips a tooth each rev on the 20 toothed pulley. The belt is tight and I am concerned that if I pull it tight enough to stretch the belt to "fit" that it will put too much load onto the bearings of the NEMA 23 motor. The fit is even worse if the belt is really slack.
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