Here is a list of all the postings Ian Parkin has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cross drilling in the lathe|
Oh and its a tailstock adapter for woodworking lathes for holding MT2 tooling
fits in a toolpost
Well guys i think I’ve done it in an acceptable way for me
i do have a Dro fitted on this lathe so just touched off on the jaws holding on the diameter spun 180 and adjusted until the Dro read the same on both sides
Hopper I’d forgotten i had one of those centre finders but digging it out i remembered why i had never used it...its like it came out of a lucky bag
I cant screw cut in the mill old iron
Edited By Ian Parkin on 17/12/2020 16:36:10
This is what I’m wanting to make a few of.
this is ok but the hole isn’t in the middle of the 50 mm bar
Is this a valid way? Centre punch where i need the hole and set this in the 4 jaw and bring the tailstock up with a. Centre in..... rotating the chuck the centre pop would describe a circle if its not spot on?
yes that would work but i thought drilling on the mill with say a 10mm drill then putting a length of silver steel in the hole and indicating off that in the 4 jaw..then removing before drilling
cant see how that would work on a round bar? Am i being thick? Yes just realised what you meant now
Edited By Ian Parkin on 16/12/2020 17:52:51
I’m trying to remember where i may have seen a technique for doing this...
i have a 50mm dia x 150mm piece of ms
i need to machine a 1 1/8 thread about 50mm from one end..
how do i centre the part in my 4 jaw so the hole and subsequent thread is bang centred though the bar
|Thread: Tig Welder|
I use the foot pedal just as a switch on/off
set the amps on the welder and its easyier than using the trigger either in 2t or 4t mode
its very important with Tig to observe ABC.....always be comfortable.
you just apply the torch to the work and you see a puddle of molten metal...then apply your filler rod and move along.
if its thick alloy it’s quite easy
if its thin < 1.5mm its easy to melt an edge
again lots of practice on thin stock and much wasting of argon
|Thread: New scam to beware of|
i did give them the wrong code 3 times each time they said that it was wrong
I do wonder if the email and 4 digit code actually comes to me from bt that the scammers are originating..then it comes to me as the registered email address and they need the code that bt have sent me to progress?
As Martin W i do tend to treat the scammers as a sport.
I’ve had 30 minutes on the call sorting out problems on my computer whilst having a Bath with the scammers getting increasingly more angry at me misunderstanding what they want me to do.
But the one i had today was a first and I’d love to know what me giving them the code ends up as. Funningly enough
the same sort of call happened about 2 hours later and hovering over the email address didn’t offer up any other real address ...and yes I’d put a space in the address by accident
The email address they used is “firstname.lastname@example.org .com “
so probably not correct for a genuine bt address
but my account name isn’t the same as my name
i’m sure he rang and sent the email at the same time
So what would giving him the code do?
i’d thought that the code would let him into my bt account and the email was a confirmation 2nd layer authorisation request
but then what could he do?
The lens in my pair looked like a reject part from a injection moulding machine and there was 2 of them ...one sliding across the other perhaps 20mm in total ...absolutely impossible to use.
|Thread: New scam to beware of|
This morning i had a phone call purporting to be from bt telling me that my internet connection had been compromised...usuall sort of scam call so far.
but he said check my email for an authorisation code
sure enough there was an email from bt with a 4 digit code that he wanted me to give him.
the email had my bt account name within it
anybody know what would have happened if i had given him the code?
I did buy a pair of these a few years ago
they were fascinating...how badly they were made and ....words fail me how unusable they were.
but they were a good novelty item...everyone who saw them laughed...lucky bag quality didn’t come into it
paypal refunded promptly
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
So if Steve’s neighbour paid £190 ish in 1960
then ran in into the ground in 6 years....
Steve surely got a bargain even if it was rough.
2.5% of its original price after 6 years
I had a guess at how much a "ride to work " type 250 was in 1960
can anyone onfirm?
in 1975 a honda cd 175 was 350 and a cb 250 was 550 i can remember those prices
still a bargain for you though at £5 for a 6 year old bike
I fully understand that people can undersell to a young chap
but if 10 shillings is £10
then £100 is £2000
my first bike was £90 in 1975 and it was 70% of its new price and 5 years old
I was sent a link to a publication I’ve never seen before “vintage motorcycle news”
and the current issue is all about ner-a-cars
and theres 2 pictures of my bike in it
heres a link
Steve great story telling as usual
but even in those days would someone have sold a 4 year old motorcycle that cost £100 perhaps for £0.50. ?
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