Here is a list of all the postings Saxalby has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Special rivet ,|
I did something similair on my engine. I just bought a few 1/8" brass rivets and put a thread on them. Held the rivets with a little split collet in the 3 jaw.
|Thread: Tool Post Material|
I have made one for a friend who had the holders but not the toolpost. I made that out of cast iron. Filthy stuff, but easier to cut . Just used steel for the clamp (EN 8). Been working ok for many years.
|Thread: Poor surface finish|
I had exactly the same problem when I first got my Boxford ME10. The problem was caused (at least in my case, by motor vibrations through the drive belts. I found that if I slacked of the tension the helix pattern disappeared. But then there was insufficient power to the spindle. I read a suggestion that the linked belts, NutLink is one brand, gave a smoother transmission than the solid belts fitted as standard. Fitted the link belts and problem gone.
|Thread: Lead Screw|
This little chart may help -
|Thread: Whats this oiler called?|
ArcEuro sell them - heres the link:
|Thread: Tom Senior M1 paint colour|
Paragon Paints do it for £26 a Litre.
|Thread: Working phosphor bronze sheet.|
I had a similar problem when I had a plate camera and none of the lenses had a filter thread. I machined up a short tube of aluminium, threaded one end for the filter. Other end was bored a couple of mm larger than the lens barrel and a strip of baize glued around the inside so its a close, but easy fit on the lens barrel.
|Thread: Dividing Head Handle|
You pull the index pin out and as you start to turn it the peg (just visible inside the handle) drops into the cross slot. A quick twist to the right and the pin locates in the plate again.
|Thread: Favourite old tools.......|
Dam - just my luck the owner turns up. That said if you bought it when you first started work at say 15 yo, that makes you 102 years old. Far to old to make use of it any more............
Have'nt got any old tools worth a mention, but do have an old Gerstner tool chest
Bought it at car boot sale. Managed to beat then down to £10. One of the draw backs is stamped with a duty paid stamp for Windsor, Ontario and is dated 1927. So its 87 years old and still as solid as the day it was made. Often wonder who may have own it.
|Thread: Benson Vernier Height Gauge|
Have just checked my Benson VHG, and the screws on mine are 6BA. The knurled heads are 7/16" dia. and just under 3/16" thick.
|Thread: Self ejecting tail stocks tools|
John, I thought about that before making my little ring thingy. But had no joy with holding the taper securely while I drilled it.
I have the same problem on my ME10. Drill chucks and stuff with a tang on the end ejects ok, but the various centres I have dont.
Cant use David Jupps spanner method as the the tail stock spindle does'nt retract into the tailstock casting. Sticks out by about 3/32 or so.
What i did was was machine a ring out of a bit of 1 1/4" steel, bored to slip over the taper (from the small end) and counter bored about 1 1/8" to pass over the tailstock spindle. Hope that descricption makes sense.
Well done that you have a clutch. When I bought my ME10 (new from Boxford) they had stopped offering the clutch as an option.
|Thread: Lathe facing convex or concave|
I am trying to imagine a couple of BSI engineers holding down a badger ( vicious little buggers) while running a surface gauge over its rear end.
|Thread: Size of small thread pitch nuts|
Maybe this will help.
Martin beat me to it
Edited By Saxalby on 25/02/2014 09:47:07
|Thread: Boxford ME10|
I originally bolted my both my Boxfords to the floor. But when I moved I could not decide on the best location for the machines, so opted to mount them all on adjustable machine mounts. I have not noticed any detrimental affects on either the lathes or milling machine.
just measured my ME10. Mine is on the Boxford cabinet base and the footprint of that is 20" deep by 47"long. The ME10 itself overhangs the base by some 6" at the front. So lathe itself is 26" X 47".
Hope that helps.
|Thread: Toolpost Grinder|
Finally getting a good finish.
Used Grahams tip of marking the wheel surface with a felt tip and them dressing the wheel as he suggested.
Again many thanks.
Thank you all for your hints and tips. Will try again tomorrow.
The spare wheels were bought from the USA, and specified for use on a small tool post grinder. Will bare in mind what has been said about dressing the wheels. Think the problem may well be there. The punches are round shank (roll of bench type) so are being help firmly in collets.
Blowlamp, No the surface is not burnt or burnished.
Graham, you get such a wonderful finish, if all else fails I will send them to you.
I recently acquired a Boxford "Little Giant" toolpost grinder, but I am having no luck getting a smooth ground finish. Both the lathe and grinder spindles have no "play" in them. I have tried both the original wheel that came with it, (quite coarse, probably 60 grit), and some new 100 and 200 grit wheels I bought. Wheels were trued up with a diamond dresser.
How should one run the lathe, fast or slow, with or against the grinder rotation.
At the moment just trying to grind a nice point on some old centre punches and scribes. Any help would be appreciated.
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