Here is a list of all the postings Spurry has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Rulers - my pet peeve|
Have to agree with John on this one. I hate those 1/2mm graduations, but find it easy to judge half a millimetre by eye.
If I understand the requirement correctly, I have two rules made by Moore & Wright, one is 150mm and the other 300mm. Bought both in my younger days when the value of the design was not appreciated....or else several would have been bought. So far, I have been unsuccessful in obtaining duplicates.
PS I was taught that a Ruler had extra bits on the ends, so that a line could be drawn 1 ft long and the pencil did not fall off the end. Whereas a Rule was for measuring accurately from one end, so the grads started there.
Edited By Spurry on 29/12/2010 11:17:16
Edited By Spurry on 29/12/2010 11:18:12
|Thread: Comments on the Exhibition|
Well, there's still at least one exponent of that business technique attending the shows. There is not usually a price list displayed which gives a clue.
|Thread: Dial Gauge|
The gauge shown does look like the Screwfix one. They are selling the magnetic stand at special offer too - ref 51845 at £5.10 each. I just bought 4 to use for a suds guard on the mill.
|Thread: Midlands Model Engineering Show at Warwick|
In years gone by, it was always traditional to go to the shows to 'grab a bargain'. Many of the traders used to have special show offers etc.
I was very disturbed to find a new phenomenon at Ally Pally - prices increased! The prices referred to were in comparison to the trader's Internet site. As there were no prices displayed on the stand, I have to admit to not adding two and two together at the time.
When I later questioned the trader about his charges, he trotted out the usual excuses - high cost of stand, electricity and so on. I wonder how many others he caught.
|Thread: Simpler the Better -what do you use?|
Just in case anyone reading through the replies thinks no-one gets on with TurboCad,.I do! Started with the DOS version which was... err.... difficult. V2 for windows was the one I got to grips with. Now on v16.
Although it's a 3D package (so it looks complicated), I onlty draw in 2D to produce dxf's for my cnc machine.
Other than that, I would agree entirely with the comments of John S above.
A Tcaddie laddie - Pete
|Thread: Hints and tips|
More useful reading from your last links. Great stuff - thanks.
Regarding your greaser machine, have you seen this one?
I've used one for a few years to grease the bearings on R/c helicopters.
|Thread: Bead/shot blasting.|
The glass beads are not so aggressive as sand. Sealey sell a range of reasonably priced cabinets. The expense is not the cabinet, but the compressor to feed it with air.
I may able to help out, if you are anywhere near St Albans.
|Thread: Rotary table stops|
My table is a Vertex, but has no central upstand. It's so long ago that I took it apart, I cannot remember the exact construction. There is a picture of it in my gallery .
I know I made an adapter with a 10mm central locator hole, the outside of which is a short length of Morse Taper. Is it possible to take a picture? it's much easier to see a problem than read about one.
That could be useful as a stop location. (The start is not usually a problem) On the job I messed up, I was cutting 1" thick material plate to a semi circular shape. In order to prevent the groove normally caused by lingering with the cutter, I downfed the cutter by hand, locked the quill, and started winding the table all at once.
At the end it was difficult to coordimate the opposite actions, especially not being able to see the table markings.
I now have no excuses for making such an error again.
Thanks for the idea John.
That could be a short term solution, whilst I gather some courage (and tools) to machine the table.
My first thought would be to use an M5/M6 caphead with a turned taper, or have you deliberately used a grub screw to restrict the amount of sideways pressure that could be exerted on the casting?
Thanks again Ramon.
Edited By Spurry on 15/08/2010 13:19:12
Thanks for those ideas Ramon. That's a proper job!
I'm a little apprehensive about mounting the 10" table on the lathe to cut the grooves. It sounds very scary to me. Radially drilling on the mill does not seem quite so onerous.
Those pictures show me what I ought to do.
Thanks for the replies.
Kwil - I have found that a better finish can be obtained with coolant. Perhaps that's just me.
Geoff - I should be so lucky. My table has 6 slots. I did post a picture in the gallery, but did not actually achieve the insertion into my posting.
On my last 'rotary' job, I overturned the table by a few degrees and had to stick a bit of metal back. This job highlighted the requirement to do the job properly with some stops.
Does anyone have any ideas they are willing to share for rotary table stops. The table markings are very clear, but disappear when covered in coolant!
I have to round off 16 corners in 1/2" steel so thought some stops to restrict the table movement to 90° would be useful. The groove around the circumference is parallel sided. My only idea to date is to axially drill the bottom of the groove, at say 10° intervals to hold some stops.
I have a feeling there may be a simpler solution....
|Thread: Portable bandsaws - any good?|
I've had a Femi bandsaw for some years now. Bought from one of the Model Engineer shows at Ally Pally.
It looks like a toy, but it's a superb machine. The guy selling them was cuttings disks about 1mm thick from a 50mm round bar.
I have lots of tools I could do without, but not this one!
|Thread: Countersinking - guidance please...?|
Axminster Tools sell chatter-free countersinks...and several other types.
|Thread: Diesel fuel|
It may be more appropriate to ask your question on a model flying forum. RCMF has at least a couple of members in France. http://www.rcmf.co.uk/4um/
|Thread: MEW No 159|
This issue contained David Haythornthwaite's excellent article on the adjustable grinding head.
Am I the only person somewhat miffed that the article is incomplete? Insofar that to build the project, you have to purchase a book on how to build the most important part i.e. the spindle assembly.
I sincerely hope that this is not a sign of things to come. - To have half an article in the magazine, then have to buy a book to complete it. This is the first time that I can remember this happening, and I am only missing two issues since No1.
I hope David can be persuaded to show us the rest of this machine, by means of a full article, or further articles in MEW. He shows the machine on his website.
PS The Spindles book has just been delivered. J
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.