Here is a list of all the postings Joseph Ramon has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Deepish Holes In Square Stock|
Drill then bore to size - lighter loads mean steady not required, more accurate, takes longer.
Use the mill and stand it end on beneath tehs pindle, finish bore if required.
Mount the square on the cross slide and hold drills/boring tools on the mandrel.
|Thread: Has anyone tried the 0um ER Adjusters?|
I can't find them in their ebay shop, but they sell some esoteric stuff although THIS seems to bear a strange resemblance to a deburring tool!
|Thread: Cleaning up|
Surely the joy of having your own workshop is that you keep it as tidy as YOU want and don't have to match anyone else's expectations? From OCD to total slobbery - it's your domain!
|Thread: Which is better, 2 big or 4 small? (Bolts)|
My understanding is as others have mentioned - strength is determined by core diameter as long as more than about 2 threads are engaged, as the cross section of the thread in shear then exceeds the core area. Incidently this is why it is still worth using high-tensile bolts even if they are fitted into a low-carbon steel like EN1A - the threaded depth can be arbitarily deep and strong, the fixing's strength remains the same regardless of length.
This means the difference between 2xM8 and 4xM6 is not huge.
I would have thought that 4xM6 would be the best choice as such an arranegment will better resist twisting and be less likely to work loose under load. Dowels might help stop rotation of the part, but would do little to help reduce 'peeling' forces.
|Thread: Adverts blocking RH side of posts|
Best wishes to your wife, I hope she's on the mend.
If you do want to live dangerously, Firefox will ask if you want to import your preferences and should take about four minutes to set up from scratch if you have a reasonable broadband connection.
Scroll down to English British and click the red/green/blue/yellow arrow to download the Windows version.
Or just click dowload British Firefox
|Thread: ME Canal Crane scale?|
It would look neat mounted on a goods platform, perhaps with a lorry loading bay the other side.
I suspect that the drawings may have been enlarged or reduced by varying amounts to fit with the page layout. For OO (1:76) divide by 6.33, for HO (1:87) divide by 7.25. I would be inclined to divide the published dimensions by 7 to keep things simple - scale dimensions seem to be a moveable feast for small scale railway modelling
|Thread: Reference squares , Cylindrical squares and absolute methods .|
The squirrel on the hippopotamus is equal to the squirrels on the other two lions.
Well, it was all getting a bit too highbrow.
|Thread: Running small stationary steam engines|
But with the caveat that you don't need a constant oil feed with air as you do on steam, as it isn't being washed out. For relatively short running periods a little oil in the air inlet before attaching the airline will do fine.
|Thread: Importance of the forum in your life.|
One advantage of this forum is that the messages are compact and readable in the centre of the page without too much bloat-space.
|Thread: Lathe alignment and cross slide play issues|
Cross slide play is annoying as it can affect repeatability. It probably can be adjusted out - and note some lathes have a cross slide nut that can be adjusted (and therefore can come loose). Patience and common sense should help track this down. If its a worn feed nut, replace the nut. If a new nut is slack than the problems is more of an annoyance than a problem, as the backslash should not noticeably affect repeatability. Do check that a loose cross-slide gibb isn't creating the impression of a slack adjustment elsewhere.
As for the parallelism, 0.02mm in 100mm isn't a bad result for a beginner.
It's a mistake to test something, look at the result and say "is this good enough?"
What you should do is think "How good do I need this to be?" and then test and see if it comes up to your requirements.
In practice something like turning a long shaft parallel will depend more on issues like the material, depth of cut, tool sharpness anbd tailsstockl support and alignment as much as anything else. As Michael says you can get perfect results on an old mangle if you apply the right techniques and patience.
Harold's test square is about as demanding a piece as you can imagine. A long shaft possibly only needs to be dead to size at the two pojnts where it goes through the bearing, for example.
So don't fret about chasing 'tenths of thous' get on with making something and building your skills. by the time your lathe starts to limit your results, you will probably know just how to fix it anyway.
|Thread: Bourdon Gauge|
The Wikipedia article says "But in 1875 after Bourdon's patents expired,"
As it's marked "E. BOURDON'S PATENT" that suggests it may predate 1875.
P.S. If had one of those I'd have it in on the living room wall!
Edited By Joseph Ramon on 15/02/2013 12:41:03
Edited By Joseph Ramon on 15/02/2013 12:43:59
|Thread: Inexpensive Chucks|
Oh Lordy Me! What have I started?
I don't get too many chances to come on line, so it's been a while.
Thanks fopr the comments and advice, although not quite what i expected, there's enough for me to make a more informed choice.
Alan - please take a bow for doing EXACTLY what I hoped wouldn't happen when I posted my question and starting a flame war. Why do I suspect your are, ironically, excatly the sort of person smileys were invented for (an explicit indication of the poster's intent).
Then again - trolls do come from Norway... perhaps you're just winding folk up?
I was thinking of buying a relatively inexpensive 4-jaw SC chuck. There are lots of brands and origins. I don' want to start another pointless argument bewteen East and West but could anyone place the following in an approximate order of 'value for money'?
SOBA, TOS, Zither, SEIG,Sharp, Chester, Amadeal
I'm intrigued that Arc's Indian chucks are more costly than their chinese ones. I thought Chinese was generally better quality?
Are there any common brands I have missed?
|Thread: Stuart S50 metric conversion|
For half a century I've been confident I understand imperial measurements.
With your help, now I don't any more
Seriously if you have an imperial design you have three choices:
Ironically, if you aren't confident with both systems, option 2 could prove the most difficult.
In practice, you may end up using imperial stock (and accepting that 1/4"=6.35mm for example) for some parts, rounding some dimenisons to the nearest mm and making other parts to match, and doing the conversions where you need to machine parts to match with parts from imperial stock.
Don't forget the easy way to convert a fraction, such as 5/16" is:
5/16" = 5 / 16 *25.4
|Thread: Repeated articles|
Phew! I am not going insane... just yet.
|Thread: Is LBSC correct|
The thing with a back cut is to remember to take it under self-act. All to easy to run back by hand far to fast and leave a 'spiral scratch'
|Thread: Co2 Cartridges|
The gasparin adapters use the smaller sparklet sioze, not airgun size.
|Thread: General Chat Topic?|
To quote the Soup Dragon.
I'll get me coat.
|Thread: The first steam engine you built|
Stuart 10V castings £88.20 inc vat Stuart 10V
Reeves popular single cylinder oscillator castings £43.57 Reeves Popular
Both come with all materials and fixings.
10V is much bigger and much more like a 'real' steam engine.
Having bought both the Stuart castings were to a higher standard.
You pays your money and makes your choice.
Your mileage may vary.
|Thread: Anecdotes 2|
Perhaps just hand held emery to relieve the centre would do the job.
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