Here is a list of all the postings Joseph Ramon has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Three Jaw Independent Chuck|
Does this design pre- or post-date the three-jaw scroll chuck as we know it today?
|Thread: Bright Mild Steel Flat|
Sheet steel from an old domestic appliance and a cheap set of tinsnips?
|Thread: Chesterman 369 height gauge|
Note the hollowed out base and little slot to prevent suction when lifting it off a surface plate.
Zoom in to avoid that awful moire pattern though!
Edited By Joseph Ramon on 25/06/2013 16:10:33
|Thread: Clarke lathe|
Does the mill head use the same power supply unit as the lathe?
|Thread: VICKERS 8" HOWITZER NEW THREAD|
I think we only have to look at Bob's photos and the commentaries on them to see this is a non-issue.
It WOULD be useful if a senior police officer were to produce a short article clarifying the law and giving guidance to modellers on what needs a licence and what should be done to make a potential firearm non-viable. I doubt that will happen.
In the meantime I suggest anyone modelling a gun has either a hole hidden in the underside of the barrel near the breech or plugs the barrel with a driven in hardened plug with the ends turned as two offset cones to stop it being drilled out.
|Thread: I think my dividing head makers needs....|
I think foklks are missing Michael's point. There uis a very good reason why the holes may not be evenly spaced - so you can swap plates and put them back on in the same orientation without needing a key.
Both items could well be to spec, but not matched.
|Thread: Time in the workshop|
Kerrang! Bring on Loz, Keith, Johnny Doom and poor Kate Lawler!
|Thread: clevis holes .001 different|
Michael is right.
This is a good example of where the "best practice of fully dimensioned and toleranced drawings" as used in industry is clearly folly.
Even the old style 1/8" full and 1/8" bare would be more useful, though a simple 1/8" dimension with the note to make one end a press fit would be best.
In practice I'd make both holes undersize on the pin material, then open one up with a broach, reamer or even a drill in a pin chuck.
|Thread: Engine Turning or "Jewelling|
I've seen this on vintage car dashboards. personally i think it's a bit OTT as it highlights the background, rather than the detail. Rather like the 'Duplex' boring bar holder that was scraped all over!
Joey the spoilsport
|Thread: Vermiculite board for hearth ?|
Vermiculite board absorbes very little heat. It's not quite space shuttle tiles, but I've picked up bits within a minute of them being at red heat and not burned myself.
The problem with it is that flux residues build up on eths urfeca and can cause it to flake off.
|Thread: Facing bar ends|
A wooden stick with the lower end between the lathe shears, or even a screwdriver can be used to do this with care.
|Thread: Test thread|
Commenting on your own question to get it back to the top is called 'bumping' and is an accepted practice if indulged in with moderation.
On another forum recently and I noticed they actually had a 'bump thread' button!
|Thread: Vickers 8" Howie pics as promised|
Interesting to watch progress Bob,
Looking at your own achievemnts, I'm surprised you are getting a third party to do this for you!
|Thread: Emery paper grades|
Number grit sizes are numbers of grains per inch.
It would be interesting to know how surface roughness (ra) relates to grit size, although as you use emery it blunts and clogs so the finish imporves.
|Thread: First attempt at silver soldering :-(|
I think yiou just aren't putting enough heat in. Don't be lily-livered, turn the torch up to full. As you approach the right heat the flux will melt and become a clear, slightly mobile liquid. Keep pouring in the heat. In subdued light you will see the copper begin to glow a dull red, now is the time to strike the solder to the work.
Even if you had feed the solder, havinga bit on the work you can watch to see when it melts helps.
If you are outside even a modest breeze will rob a lot of heat from the work, so make sure you are well sheltered.
You are much more likely to succeed in your quest is you make a proper end cap for the boiler by flanging a circular blank over a wooden former. It should be an easy but not loose fit. If blanking both ends, make sure the boiler has a pre-drilled hole somewhere to let the expanding air out!
|Thread: 3 hole pcd|
Measure diameter of spindle = X
Measure diameter of hole = Y
Measure distance bewteen spindle and inside edge of hole =Z
PCD = X + Y + 2Z
|Thread: What did you do today? (2013)|
> just rest a finger on the stop button for it to chatter.
You don't think it could be the contacts in the stop button that need cleaning?
> Today's flying was cancelled due to a 25 knot crosswind,
And 44mph gusts...
|Thread: 3 hole pcd|
Put a bit of paper over the end of the grider (with a hole for the spindle). Push a pencil through each of the mounting holes and spin it round. It will be much easier to measure the spacing of the holes from the paper copy, or you can use it as a template..
Also, it is easier to meaure between the edges of the holes than their centres, just make sure you use the same point (e.g. far right edge) of the two holes!
|Thread: Conjunction of Moon and Jupiter|
All looks a bit nebulous to me
very impressive, Exactly what equipment do you have? A star-tracking equitorial mount would be a good project.
|Thread: What did you do today? (2013)|
It's a shame there isn't an ethical way to 'pre-sell' your kit to someone, perhaps they make monthly payments, and when you peg it the value of the fund goes to your estate and they get either the lot, or an agreed proportions of your kit depending on how much they paid in, with the option to get any un-paid for kit at a fair ,fixed price.
Clearly the uncomfortable situation is someone 'waiting for you to go', and the fact that you might hang on for an age.
May have pros and cons for some companies?
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