Here is a list of all the postings Oily Rag has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Honing motor cycle small ends|
You may recognise the bike in my avatar photo then?!
Edited By Oily Rag on 11/05/2019 15:44:18
Edited By Oily Rag on 11/05/2019 15:46:07
A way of getting a reamer to cut oversize is to use a 'fag' paper on one tooth of the reamer, gives about a 0.0008" increase in diameter, 2 'fag' papers on 2 teeth give about a 'cow and a calf' - then hand scrape to finish!
Never ever be tempted to use emery or diamond honing paste!
|Thread: Bore micrometer|
Bowers 13-16 and 16-19 bore micrometers with their setting gauges. An excellent buy at an auction for £40 for the pair. I have also got some larger Mitutoya bore micrometers in imperial sizes from 3/4" through to 2.5" with some gaps in the range. Once set they are pretty reliable, but I do check them every time I use them. DBG's are good for checking bore taper and run-out but cannot meet the exactness of using a bore micrometer - these Bowers are graduated in 0.005mm but are readable to 0.002mm (glasses dependent!), especially where small bores are concerned and accuracy is required. I use these for little end measuring of con rods and pistons. The bigger imperial mikes I use for main bearing fits. I did have some Chinese small bore micrometers but given they were reasonably accurate they were poorly made to such an extent that the jaw on one mike dropped out! Their setting gauges were inaccurate when checked with the Bowers.
Edited By Oily Rag on 11/05/2019 14:23:48
|Thread: Hemingway Dynamic Toolpost Grinder|
Great series of posts Nick, very well written and good photos. Thank you very much for that. I hope the hangovers are not troubling you too much though now! (go and see the doctor if they are!!)
|Thread: Pulse Jet Carburator|
You can use the reed valves from 2 stroke motorcycles, depending on what size you want to build you have the choice of either 80cc kiddies motorcrossers reed valve blocks through to 450cc single cylinder Pro Crossers reed blocks. These reeds are either stainless steel, titanium or of a resin based material. The fuel delivery system is best served by a spray bar arrangement with a needle jet trimming device for fuel flow, ignition by a trembler coil feeding a 14mm spark plug, and on the one I built with some work colleagues many years ago (30!) we had a variable 'exhaust tube' which changed the tuned frequency and allowed us to 'pitch' the outlet sound. Basically the exhaust was a slow tapered tube (~8 to10 degree included taper) from about 3" diameter out to 5" diameter with a reverse cone megaphone reducing it to about 1.5" diameter. The variable length was a sliding arrangement on the 1.5" tail pipe.
As has been mentioned above you will need some compressed air to start it and a hand squirt fuel bottle to encourage 'first fire'. Have a fire blanket and fire extinguisher to hand! (in case of a back fire - but with the reed valve block it should be pretty safe)
|Thread: A visit to Manchester Sci and Eng Museum|
MK, while I appreciate what you are saying above I still feel there is a 'loss' of interest by the 'Arts Degree' regimes currently and over-whelmingly running most museums. As Andy above has mentioned, the once superb Black Country Museum, is now a shadow of it's former self. All the curators want to do is preach to all and sundry what a bunch of b******ds all the beastly bosses were, a carry over from the politicisation of the schools and universities over the last 40 years.
Snibston Museum in Leicestershire probably ranks as one of the most disappointing museums I have ever visited, when it first opened there were artefacts aplenty, from a wide range of local history and it's industries - coal mining, agriculture, lace making and the hosiery industry were all well represented; on a later visit there were many less objects and in their place was a loop TV documentary running with objects shown 'on screen' - This I was told, was what the younger generation now expected "as they get all their information from a TV screen" - God help us if this is true! There were endless 'activity attractions' which were of mediocre interest to the youngsters I noted. I was also told that the TV loop documentaries were replacing written signage almost everywhere and that this is the modern approach as "people don't read anymore"
In 2012 I went to London and having a free day decided to go to the Science Museum and then the Natural History Museum, the Science Museum had shuffled all the aero engines into floor to ceiling racks, making most of them unsighted. As for the NH Museum the old museum from the past had disappeared, fronted now by a 3D 'day in the life of a dinosaur' on a SuperMax widescreen cinema (now its a battle to see who has the coolest AV system it appears!) meanwhile the dinosaur in the main entrance lobby has I understand been dis-assembled.
Museum's need 'shock and awe' to spark an interest in a youngsters mind, you don't get that from hogwash TV.
|Thread: Gib on abwood|
I have a 4" Abwood which when I aquired it had a similar problem. I found that the gib screws had 'back up' screws as 'lockers' which beared down on the adjusters below them. If you don't have external locknuts, back out the screw to check whether it is also uses a similar locking system.
|Thread: Quick question on Deckel tapers|
It may be a Thiel taper - I need to dig out my collection of Thiel tooling to check it and IIRC the Thiel taper does differ from Deckel - but not by very much!
|Thread: Moving from Warco WM180 to a Myford ML7B ?|
There are many who consider the Raglan as the best of the Nottingham offerings - the later 5" was, and still is, an effective lathe. The earlier Little Johns were just as loveable once you get used to their, sometimes, quirky behaviour. The benefit in my eyes is the one piece headstock and bed casting which makes them of proverbial 'brick out house' strength. The replaceable hardened steel bed shears makes renovation a straight forward task, the previously mentioned 'triangle' of CH to bed width comes good at 5.125" (CH) to 6.170" (BW) and the all up weight is impressive at 195kg for the LJ's and around 210kg for the 5", both weights quoted are without the factory supplied sheet metal stands which could easily double up as 'armour plate' gun turrets!
Timken taper roller bearings to class C6 for the headstock, separate power feed shaft and leadscrew (the leadscrew being dis-engageable when not in use), good sized clear dials, a plethora of accessories, some accessories interchangeable with Atlas 10-F lathes (vertical slide, toolposts), Imperial to metric threading via a simple 52T x 44T intermediate changewheel system (no need for 127T gears), a variable speed drive system on expanding/contracting cone pulleys (still in use on both of mine despite the use of a VFD) which with the 7:1 back gear gives a total indirect / direct speed range of 35rpm through to 2000 rpm (or more with the VFD).
The quirks are numerous but all are understood, probably the biggest problem to look for is a bent spindle combined with missing teeth on the bull gear. This may have been caused by one of two things - delinquent 'yoofs' from class 4B or the drop gear which sits on and outboard of the bull gear shaft seizing on the shaft through lack of lubrication, and resulting in the bull gear 'self engaging'. Virtually every LJ I have seen has had some similar problem in this area, I rebuilt mine with a new EN40B nitrided eccentric shaft and I run a needle roller bearing in the drop gear.
I am sure that you are right about the 254 was an attempt by Myfords to replace the Ragaln 5", and probably they took some design influence from the lines of the Emco Super 11, which happens to be another fine machine, but again one with some peculiarities! I find the lack of toolpost height on the Super 11 its biggest drawback, which then restricts the tooling to 1/2" shank which seems a little on the weeny side for a 5 1/2" CH lathe. Myfords probably priced the 254 against the Super 11 which probably 'fatally wounded' it in the market place. I am fortunate to have 3 Raglans (2 x MkII LJ's - 1 x CG, 1 x QCGearbox; and 1 x 5" QCGearbox) and a Super 11 - I would not hesitate to recommend the Raglans or the Emco.
|Thread: Would you mesh with this?|
The gear rolling tester takes me back a bit ... Sorry to see inspection equipment so rusty (or any equipment, for that matter)
Sorry about the state of the tester Bill - but that was how I received it. It was in the scrap bin at an old engineering firm that had closed down and was given to me by one of the 'old boys', that knew I would appreciate it and look after it. It did receive some TLC and looks a lot better now!
The gear in the photo (on the tester) is marked up as the 'master' (stamped "RR PV12 S/C MS" - which I interpreted as 'Rolls Royce Private Venture 12 [the in house code for the Merlin] Supercharger Medium Speed" and it was used, I believe, as a Merlin supercharger drive gear tester. The 'Old Boy' told me that the company did Government contract work for Rolls during the war and this was one of the tools that had lain about for years under a bench. It works beautifully still - the clock is graduated in 1/10000ths - I have a video of it with a couple of close ratio motorcycle gears on it being checked for 'depth' and 'run out'. Now I know why they were so harsh! I haven't mastered how to post video's yet! There are some more photo's of the tool in my album. The plant reference paint markings are pure artistry. You will also see it is a Parkson make, from memory Parkson took over the Sunderland Gear business in the 1930's which ties in with the quoted history.
|Thread: Sending of heavy items|
Just when I learn about a thing called "Metric" someone mentions "stone". Whose stones did they use? How did this come about? .
It's simple Mark - a 'Stone' was defined as a rock or large pebble the size of a clenched mans fist. It was almost certain that in faraway days they had big hands from toiling in the fields! That translated to 14 pounds in a stone, and 2 stones made a 'quarter' (28 lbs), 4 stones became a half hundred weight (written '1/2 cwt' with 8 stones being a hundred weight (1 cwt, at actually 112lbs!). It's still used in the UK as being the terminology for body mass, surprisingly even youngsters are still using it. So a persons weight will be defined as say 14 stone 5lb.
If anyone asks you about the differences in the US gallon and the Imperial gallon that came about as a result of the US maintaining the 'old' weights and measures system of Queen Anne post the revolution. In the UK the government taxed wines and ales by the pint, so the victuallers increased the 'size' of the pint from 16 fluid ounces to 20 fluid ounces. Hence the USA stayed with the 16 fl. oz. pint and we went with the new tax busting 20 fl. oz.
|Thread: Myford 254s accessories ?|
Duncan - That;s a 5" Raglan fixed steady, looks like it is off the Little John rather than the latter 5" (they were both 5" centre heights though)
|Thread: Dial indicator probe threads|
Try a bicycle spoke! Worked for me on several occasions.
|Thread: No7 Taper Pin Source|
Hi Peaky - sounds a blinder!
Good to hear the shaper is clapping away nicely now, you just can't beat that sound. BTW have you found a source for swan neck tools for the shaper. I have an ex- REME WWII mobile workshop Atlas 7" shaper which I had given to me by a farmer, it was a heap of rust when I dragged it back home but is now re-conditioned and working well. With care of set up it will maintain a 0.0002" tolerance for flatness on the full machine envelope.
|Thread: Parting off - front or rear|
John Ward sells an extended and T slotted cross slide for the South Bend and SB Clones (like Boxfords). My Raglan has only a short cross slide as standard but the John Ward long slide that he produces for the Raglan is ideal for rear toolposts.
|Thread: No7 Taper Pin Source|
Taper is 1 in 48 for imperial taper pins (as opposed to 1 in 50 for metric) also pin is defined by the measured from the small end for imperial pins (IIRC??). I've got a nice small capstan tool with a tapered 'slide' for making imperial pins, a sort of capstan 'taper turning attachment'! I made it as an apprentice 50+ years ago.
|Thread: Parting off tool - straight or angled.|
On the question of inverted parting off from a rear toolpost ... the other reason given for the chatter free method is that the cross slide is lifted against the dovetails of the saddle and this makes the action 'solid'; however, the front toolpost position relies on the cross slide sitting atop the saddle ways and able to 'bounce' from the flat to the dovetail and hence incur and promote chatter.
I had numerous problems in parting off from the front toolpost on my 50 odd year old lathe, as soon as I went to a rear toolpost set up for parting off I never looked back. No more chatter, no more jambs, no more broken tools! It is so good that I now use an Iscar 3mm inserted tip part off blade, or on some aluminium jobs a very high rake HSS triangular blade with about 1.5" sides set vertically (I don't remember where the tool came from but it works very well)
|Thread: Inverter Tripping RCD|
An interesting discussion and one where I have had some experience of in both a factory situation and in a domestic workshop. The former led to a cure for the later!
The factory situation was that we had a small machine shop situated at the far end of the factory (offices and stores) building. We had to extend the wiring from the main CB to the far end of the 'shop' (it only had a single phase circuit at the far end but needed a 3 phase 100 Amp supply for the machinery). The wiring was duly done and immediately we had the CB tripping the whole building off. The electrician immediately said that the problem was the RCB timer value being too short. As you all know the RCB works by measuring current 'in' against current 'out' and if it has to travel a long way the time constant needs extending - he upped it from something like 10 micro sec to 25 micro sec and cured the tripping problem. My house had the same problem with the workshop occasionally tripping the RCB on inverter switch on. A change to the timer constant of the RCB cured the tripping.
Edited By Oily Rag on 21/03/2019 10:46:27
|Thread: Herbert Cridan lathe|
Cri-Dan was a French company who licenced machine tool manufacturers around the world to build their machines (companies such as Kirloskar, Gisholt, Realmeca, there was also one produced by Lees-Bradner and called the Sentinael [spelling correct!]) . The Herbert Cri-Dan was manufactured at the Alfred Herbert, Edgwick plant, Coventry between about 1960 and 1975. The novelty of the Cri-Dan was it used a 'drag bar' arrangement - at least on the model 'A' - which had the threading slide sit at an angle above the workpiece. The slide was hydraulically controlled.
I served my apprenticeship at Edgwick and would often look on in bewilderment at the speed these machines could operate at. Not really a practical machine for the home workshop though!
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