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Member postings for Oily Rag

Here is a list of all the postings Oily Rag has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Electric welder at Lidl
13/01/2020 21:05:56

"It says ‘from Leicester’, but like most, it will gave been made in china."

Must be from ARC Euro Trade then!

Thread: Can anyone identify this power hacksaw
06/01/2020 14:45:27

I would hazard a guess that it is a bit of 'Lend Lease' equipment dating from early 1940's - probably something like a Millers Falls manufactured in Massachusetts USA. It looks to be something which may have been used in a REME mobile workshop or a LAD (Light Aid Detachment) mobile workshop of the Royal Armoured Corps, or even the American equivalent. Small enough to do a competent job but not of overpowering size as would be required in industry.

A few close up pictures may help! The finish on Millers Falls products was generally to a very high standard being black enamelled with red lining, but of course, war grade finish may have been the order of the day.

Well worth restoring and a valuable tool in its' own right.

Thread: Cast Iron Watch Case
03/01/2020 21:08:47

If you don't want Berylium copper how about AlBeMet??

Thread: Hobbymat lathe - couple of questions
03/01/2020 21:04:21

Chris, just a thought concerning the chuck jaw numbering which no one appears so far to have mentioned. Are all the jaws undamaged as far as the scroll teeth are concerned? I once bought a good looking Pratt Burnard chuck from 'Tractor Clear Out' event which had very little use - but I found that the 'thin' scroll tooth on No.1 jaw was broken, this meant that as it was now 'out of sequence' it was fitted last - so the fitting order became 2 - 3 - 1 rather than 1 - 2 - 3! Its worth checking.

My other thought is concerning making a T slot plate in steel - beware that the plate is liable to warp when you cut the T slots especially if the overall thickness is on the minimum side. Cast iron is far preferable from a stability point of view.

Best of luck with the machine - I hope you get many hours pleasure out of it.

Thread: Temporary oil conundrum
17/12/2019 18:38:44
Posted by Nigel McBurney 1 on 17/12/2019 11:08:06:

I assume that chainsaw oil that is mentioned is for the chain and not the engine,I certainly would never use chain oil far too sticky,sometimes it can be so sticky that my small Stihl will not pump it onto the blade, the big Stihl does. I have used good quality branded multi grade and nothing else on my s7 for 50 years with no problems, mono grade motor oil with minimum additives now sold as clasic oil for pre war cars does not mix well with soluble oil ,it certainly made the saddle stiff on my colchester ,I do not have any problems with multi grade though I do not use the cheap rubbish. I think that the reason machine tool makers specify mono oils that are not suitable for auto use is that if motor oil was specified the workers would nick it for their cars and motor bikes.and also machine tool oil and hydraulic oils are cheaper than good motor oil.

Haha! That reminds me of the time I was an apprentice and I discovered the Jig borers at the factory I worked at were using Newton Oil version of 'R' - It just so happened I was riding a BSA Gold Star (DB32 Clubman for those interested) that ran on 'R'. From then on I was taking a bottle a day home! The guys told me it was run on vegetable oil as it was the best oil but it was impossible to run in road vehicles - except mine I explained!

Thread: Another "What is it"
11/12/2019 15:15:29

NPL refers to the National Physics Laboratory - the go to place for anything to do with measuring, based I seem to remember around Glasgow. Sigma was based in Letchworth and were a well respected instrument maker.

 

Edited By Oily Rag on 11/12/2019 15:16:34

Thread: Arc euro micro drill adaptor
06/12/2019 21:55:27

As I said in my post above RMA - they do a job for a price but you need to be the judge of how good your other equipment is - high speed is the answer to drilling small holes, especially so when using carbide drills (I used 3mm shank drills with reduced sizes of 0.8, 1.0 and 1.15mm - I believe they are PCB drills). I was using my mill with its high speed head, the quill drive on the HSH is sensitive, but not sensitive enough for when you 'break through', that seemed to be the point where the drill would break and sure enough one broke, even with the Arc sensitive attachment. Be prepared to do some fettling on the shaft as the 'slop' on mine was excessive, and to be honest the drill chuck supplied by arc was not what I would deem a quality item. But all in all you only get what you pay for these days. Am Albrecht attachment is the way to go but as mentioned above they are costly and difficult to find. I have now bought one (an Albrecht) for future jobs like the one described here.

The job described above was in 318 stainless so all in all it will probably work for you on bronze.

06/12/2019 20:09:13

I'll second 'IanT's' comment concerning the spindle to sleeve having too much 'slop'. I bought one of these items along with a small chuck to suit as I needed one to progress a job I had to get finished. The job was to make an 'in cylinder pressure sensor adaptor sleeve' which mounted internally a Kistler 1604a pressure sensor into a 8.5 mm sleeve which passed through a water jacket in a cylinder head. The sensor screwed into a 5mm thread internally at the base of the 100+mm long sleeve and connected to the combustion chamber via 3 ports drilled at an angle into the end of the sleeve. I had an order for 16 of these adaptor sleeves and they were needed 'yesterday'!

The sensitive drill unit needed a 15 micron plastic 'wrap' around the spindle to stop excessive slop. I was drilling three holes - 0.8mm, 1.0mm and 1.15mm after spoting the angle face with a 3mm end mill and then centre drilling to get an 'toe hold', the material was 318 stainless. I set it up in the mill and running with the high speed head at 8,000 rpm managed to drill them OK with the loss of only 1 drill (yes - you guessed it the 0.8mm one!). Apart from the 'slop', which the plastic 'wrap' cured (more or less!), my only other concern was with the bearing which after drilling all 48 holes got rather hot and a bit clanky. I actually made 51 holes as I had to produce a 'qualifying' sleeve for sign off of the order - purchase could not believe that a man in a shed could do what Kistler said would take them 12 weeks to do and that I could do it for half their price!

Some of the 'process' photos required by the customer:-

img_1368.jpg

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Thread: Turret drill
06/12/2019 16:21:57

Old Mart:

Yep! I know the feeling, I suffer from the same all the time - usually it is 'where have I left my glasses?'

Nigel:

Thanks for the information - this machine was originally supplied by - DEC (Coventry) Ltd, of Manor Road, Atherstone. I do not know if they were the importers or just agents of the importers. I did find a couple of references to Masanas on the 'tinterweb' which showed a similar machine for sale in Spain (apparently it's a model TR1). They look to have been building these at least as the late 1990's. This one dates from 1987. On the Youtube site there is a Burgmaster which has been adapted onto, what looks like, a Bridgeport base (replacing the turret head of the milling machine) to provide it with a very adaptable x - y co-ordinate table facility. It is shown drilling the end plate of a steam tube boiler assembly!

The more I look at it the more I fancy 'that it will come in useful one day' - now where have I heard that before??

edited spelling

Edited By Oily Rag on 06/12/2019 16:23:18

05/12/2019 12:10:07

Hopper:

Wouldn't use it for milling as I recognise there is little sideways support in what is essentially a drill, I already have an Aciera F3 and a Bridgeport for milling so no worries there! It is an interesting 'Production' set up as opposed to a 'gang' of bench drills which is the more normal approach to multi op drilling and taping. The x-y table was more to do with an attempt to get some accuracy in co-ordinate drilling of multiple holes - but on second thoughts it is probably easier to 'mark out' and pick up centre spots. I'm considering using it for crankcase drilling and tapping, which will need a minimum of 12, and upto 24 holes drilled and tapped, with corresponding clearance holes and spot facing.

One area which looks to be well thought out is the depth stop system for each individual tool station, as indexing the head turret also indexes a stop bar. The other bit of trick design seems to be that the turret head is programmable for speeds as it goes from station to station - but note that stations have explicit speed ranges.

Do you have any information on the Burgmaster that you quote John? Looked on the usual Lathes dot UK site but neither the Manamas nor the Burgmaster are listed.

04/12/2019 19:34:51

motor plate.jpgrear view.jpgspindle speed chart.jpgturret 2.jpgturret 1.jpg

Anybody know anything about these turret drilling machines? A friend asked me if I wanted it and although the workshop is pretty full I am tempted to make some room for it. I believe this may have been made by Metabo a Spanish machine tool company that also built clones of the Deckel FP1,and Thiel type mills. It has no 'moveable' table but could be adapted for a bolt on x-y table as long as it was low enough. It is well built and sturdy and too good to scrap out, plus it has a goodly collection of tapping heads (not the retainer plate of the one tapping head on the turret currently)

Thread: Breaking bandsaw blades
02/12/2019 20:12:50

Looks like numerous others have pointed out, poor quality welding. I have a Chincom cheapo bandsaw which uses 1/2" x 0.025" x 64 1/2" blades. The originals supplied with the mahine (3 with various tpi's) lasted about halfway through their first cuts! Since then I have only ever used Starrett bi metal M42 vari-tooth blades - never had a problem with these, track well, cut well, and last an amazing time! Only time they ever struggled was when I had some copper berylium stock to cut - but then anything struggles to cut that stuff!

Cost was about £15 per blade from J&L (now MSC) in Wednesbury about 10 years ago, worth every penny.

Thread: Cracking a bolt
02/12/2019 13:13:11

To measure the torque of a retaining bolt (or stud and nut assembly) the usual method employed by engine development engineers is to mark the radial position of the bolt (or nut) relative to a surrounding fixed point, then to 'break off' the fastener and then to re-tighten to 'mark' - this will give the torque load of a fastener assembly. Where an engine cylinder head is concerned the torque loads will vary according to differences in gasket collapse, local casting collapse, either through thermal cycling or casting imperfections, and also due to thread 'pull'. There are now, however, systems which allow the torque induced in the bolt (or stud) to be read by recording the 'pitch'when the exposed end of the bolt (or stud) is struck, this without the need to disassemble. This uses the similarity between a bolt and a guitar string in tension to produce a 'pitch' when excited - a higher 'pitch' indicates a higher tension. This system requires a correlation exercise to remove all associated variables such as casting material, cavity differences, and other damping inducing effects which may be present. So, it will only work in a production environment for a specific application and / but with a corresponding error bandwidth due to casting production tolerances.

As mentioned previously by another respondent, the best way to tension conrod bolts is to measure the 'stretch' of the bolt by a non rotating point anvil micrometer. Carillo rods using APC fasteners have a 'stretch value' defining their fitting tension - a typical value may be something in the order of 0.0048".

.

Thread: Honing motor cycle small ends
11/05/2019 15:38:56

brands 1986 classic championship (2).jpgHi Tim,

You may recognise the bike in my avatar photo then?!

Edited By Oily Rag on 11/05/2019 15:44:18

Edited By Oily Rag on 11/05/2019 15:46:07

11/05/2019 14:35:32

A way of getting a reamer to cut oversize is to use a 'fag' paper on one tooth of the reamer, gives about a 0.0008" increase in diameter, 2 'fag' papers on 2 teeth give about a 'cow and a calf' - then hand scrape to finish!

Never ever be tempted to use emery or diamond honing paste!

Thread: Bore micrometer
11/05/2019 14:19:56

img_2297.jpg

Bowers 13-16 and 16-19 bore micrometers with their setting gauges. An excellent buy at an auction for £40 for the pair. I have also got some larger Mitutoya bore micrometers in imperial sizes from 3/4" through to 2.5" with some gaps in the range. Once set they are pretty reliable, but I do check them every time I use them. DBG's are good for checking bore taper and run-out but cannot meet the exactness of using a bore micrometer - these Bowers are graduated in 0.005mm but are readable to 0.002mm (glasses dependent!), especially where small bores are concerned and accuracy is required. I use these for little end measuring of con rods and pistons. The bigger imperial mikes I use for main bearing fits. I did have some Chinese small bore micrometers but given they were reasonably accurate they were poorly made to such an extent that the jaw on one mike dropped out! Their setting gauges were inaccurate when checked with the Bowers.

Edited By Oily Rag on 11/05/2019 14:23:48

Thread: Hemingway Dynamic Toolpost Grinder
10/05/2019 18:23:28

Great series of posts Nick, very well written and good photos. Thank you very much for that. I hope the hangovers are not troubling you too much though now! (go and see the doctor if they are!!)

Thread: Pulse Jet Carburator
09/05/2019 17:43:01

You can use the reed valves from 2 stroke motorcycles, depending on what size you want to build you have the choice of either 80cc kiddies motorcrossers reed valve blocks through to 450cc single cylinder Pro Crossers reed blocks. These reeds are either stainless steel, titanium or of a resin based material. The fuel delivery system is best served by a spray bar arrangement with a needle jet trimming device for fuel flow, ignition by a trembler coil feeding a 14mm spark plug, and on the one I built with some work colleagues many years ago (30!) we had a variable 'exhaust tube' which changed the tuned frequency and allowed us to 'pitch' the outlet sound. Basically the exhaust was a slow tapered tube (~8 to10 degree included taper) from about 3" diameter out to 5" diameter with a reverse cone megaphone reducing it to about 1.5" diameter. The variable length was a sliding arrangement on the 1.5" tail pipe.

As has been mentioned above you will need some compressed air to start it and a hand squirt fuel bottle to encourage 'first fire'. Have a fire blanket and fire extinguisher to hand! (in case of a back fire - but with the reed valve block it should be pretty safe)

Thread: A visit to Manchester Sci and Eng Museum
01/05/2019 15:32:43

MK, while I appreciate what you are saying above I still feel there is a 'loss' of interest by the 'Arts Degree' regimes currently and over-whelmingly running most museums. As Andy above has mentioned, the once superb Black Country Museum, is now a shadow of it's former self. All the curators want to do is preach to all and sundry what a bunch of b******ds all the beastly bosses were, a carry over from the politicisation of the schools and universities over the last 40 years.

Snibston Museum in Leicestershire probably ranks as one of the most disappointing museums I have ever visited, when it first opened there were artefacts aplenty, from a wide range of local history and it's industries - coal mining, agriculture, lace making and the hosiery industry were all well represented; on a later visit there were many less objects and in their place was a loop TV documentary running with objects shown 'on screen' - This I was told, was what the younger generation now expected "as they get all their information from a TV screen" - God help us if this is true! There were endless 'activity attractions' which were of mediocre interest to the youngsters I noted. I was also told that the TV loop documentaries were replacing written signage almost everywhere and that this is the modern approach as "people don't read anymore"

In 2012 I went to London and having a free day decided to go to the Science Museum and then the Natural History Museum, the Science Museum had shuffled all the aero engines into floor to ceiling racks, making most of them unsighted. As for the NH Museum the old museum from the past had disappeared, fronted now by a 3D 'day in the life of a dinosaur' on a SuperMax widescreen cinema (now its a battle to see who has the coolest AV system it appears!) meanwhile the dinosaur in the main entrance lobby has I understand been dis-assembled.

Museum's need 'shock and awe' to spark an interest in a youngsters mind, you don't get that from hogwash TV.

Thread: Gib on abwood
30/04/2019 19:06:12

I have a 4" Abwood which when I aquired it had a similar problem. I found that the gib screws had 'back up' screws as 'lockers' which beared down on the adjusters below them. If you don't have external locknuts, back out the screw to check whether it is also uses a similar locking system.

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