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Member postings for Oily Rag

Here is a list of all the postings Oily Rag has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Releasing a corroded stud (steel) passing through a casting (aluminium)
21/02/2022 22:19:30

OM - That SP tool looks just like mine! the saw has to go over 4" through the head and it is impossible to seal it against water (coolant) as the lower end of the stud is within the block waterways.

Here is a picture of the tool and the job it did:-



It broke during use at the point where the 7/16th" drill ended, so we silver soldered it back together after turning a register on the solid part of the shank. The teeth were reground about 4 times on a Clarkson T&C grinder, so it finished up about an inch shorter than it started out.


This is a picture of the block with two of the sawn studs showing (this is 'A' Bank - we didn't have to cut any studs on 'B' bank after using the saw ). We used penetrating oil, acid, heating and cooling - all to no avail. As you can see the studs 'live' in with the coolant which doesn't help matters any!

Thanks for all your suggestions guys.



18/02/2022 18:54:42

Thanks everyone for their inputs.

Just to clarify the studs are sliding fits through the head being screwed into the block at their lower portion and they hold the head down by way of nuts bearing down on the external upper head face. There is no threading involved (other than the nuts which remove with no problem and the lower end of the studs which thread into the block - and hopefully stay there! )

Old Mart - the studs are 7/16th dia (~11mm) and the nominal clearance hole in the head is just slightly over 12mm. I'd forgotten about Sykes Pickavant. Can you tell me what the o/d is on the 7/16th tube saw please?

Hopper - we did look at a Rotabroach and we purchased their 12mm o/d broach but the internal dia was just 6 mm! I considered grinding it out to 11mm but decided there would not be much left as the flutes would disappear leaving just 'legs' - the tube saw needs to be about 4 1/2" long to get through the any Rotabroach would need mounting on an extension tube.

J Hancock - we do not want to remove the studs or damage them as they are hard to replace, both physically (extracting them from the block is precarious ) and purchase wise ( £11.50 per stud ).

Jeff Dayman - novel idea! Again I had considered EDM and water cutting but as there are 14 studs per bank we would have to make a multi tool to attack all 14 studs in one go. Will an EDM system work solely on the front end of the tool and not 'short out' as the sleeve goes deeper between stud and head?

Again thanks to all for responding to my question - all food for further thought.


David George - That sounds like a promising avenue to investigate. glass diamond hole cutter! Have you got a link please to a manufacturer / supplier?

18/02/2022 13:02:16

One of the problems of working on older IC engines is in removing the cylinder head where a steel stud passes through the head casting. There is a heavy tendency for the stud to corrode through galvanic action and this is not helped by the seepage of coolant into the stud passageway.

Recently we were removing a head from a Jaguar V12 engine and had to resort to sawing through 4 of the 14 studs on one of the cylinder banks when the head refused to lift more than an inch or so. We have at our disposal a 'head puller' which consists of two one inch thick steel plates which bolt onto the head in place of the cam carrier and this then uses rods to press down on the exposed stud ends, thereby lifting the head away from the cylinder block.

Thinking back to my time working at Triumph Cars we had similar problems with the Triumph Slant 4 and V8 Stag engines and I remembered one of the fitters made a tube saw which went over the stud and into the stud hole in the casting to remove the corrosion.

This led me to make a stud 'tube saw' which was made from a 12mm silver steel bar with a 7/16" hole drilled up it - leaving a ~0.5mm wall thickness! After re-sharpening the teeth several times we eventually cut through the crud on all 14 studs on the other cylinder bank and the head released easily.

I am now considering making another tool from a higher grade of tool steel (D2?) and also considering a diamond plating on the tip of the saw to replace the tooth form.

My question is - has anyone knowledge of a company that can diamond plate a tool? Is there any known supplier of D2 tool steel in tube form (it doesn't have to be exact sizes as we can machine to finish size )?


Thread: Rocol Ragoline = What is it?
17/02/2022 21:04:07

Thanks for the responses guys.

I sort of thought it was a graphite grease, but it has a very sticky consistency which is more akin to an 'anti seize' compound rather like the American product 'Never Seze' as mentioned by OM.

The Bakers Fluid tin is in surprisingly good condition - it was wrapped up in a paper bag inside a plastic bag so has not had much exposure to 'dew points' I'm assuming. I might use a picture of it as my Avatar seeing as there is a connection with my 'handle'.


16/02/2022 20:55:24

I was recently given the contents of a shed by a friend whose Father In Law had passed away. Among the treasures such as Whit nuts and bolts, machine washers, unused paint brushes (artists type) was a selection of old tins. Of the tins I was pleased to find a new unopened tin of Bakers fluid, some solder flux and solder paint and a Rocol tin of Ragoline.

It looks like a graphite grease but maybe someone here on the forum remembers this product as a cutting compound or anti seize product?. The tin is very old (probably by the style of writing mid '50's ) and I have never seen anything similar. Any ideas?


Thread: Remote starter system - identifying parts
05/02/2022 13:08:11

Roger, Howard, Ian,

The ring gear to starter ratio is 5.7:1 - this is because the flywheel / clutch assembly is a 5" diameter multi plate unit and the ring gear has just 57 teeth (starter pinion being a standard 10DP 10 tooth item ). It is therefore impossible to tuck the starter motor in close enough to the flywheel, hence the remote mounting of the SM.

We have now sourced the parts which will allow us to replicate the original. I found a Ball & Claw UJ at a local Engineers Suppliers which was gathering dust on their shelves and it appears to be a far more robust item than the cross pinned Hook(e) joint [Thanks Ian for reminding me of the correct spelling of that]. The new UJ is very slightly heavier than the original (+ 25grm ) but the mass of the system is low as the shafts are High Tensile tubes not solid shafts. This keeps the mass of the connection low to allow the rotational and for and aft movements.

The next problem has been removing the scavenge filters from the sump plate, had to make a tool to engage with the slots in the threaded bosses which have gauze 'socks' soldered onto them. Two came out fairly easily but the third was very tight. Any suggestions for a supplier of 50 mesh gauze (i.e 50 strands per inch = nominal 0.020" square 'free space' ) in brass, or bronze (steel as a distant third or even stainless if it is possible to solder! ). The bosses were threaded 7/8" UNF x 14 tpi made in steel but I'm considering replicating these in brass, suggestions please therefore, for a suitable grade of brass that solders easily and is reasonably acid resistant.

Thanks for your replies, in anticipation of your suggestions!



Edited By Oily Rag on 05/02/2022 13:13:44

02/02/2022 15:01:57
Posted by Jon Lawes on 02/02/2022 06:53:27:
Posted by Hopper on 01/02/2022 22:45:39:

Any clue as to the make and model of the car? Might be helpful. (And enquiring minds want to know!)

I dunno but its a fun game to take a stab! Cosworth HB? Judd?

Ha! Not bad guesses.

Although the Cosworth DFV was the first engine in over 60 years to be designed with no visible method of starting it! The HB was started via a shaft up it's a55 (through the gearbox ) as was all the Judd's with the exception of the KV 3000 engine and the reworked ex F1 V10 GV 3.5 litre when opened up to 4 litre for sports car racing and designated the MV. These used a system similar to that as we used on the XJR 15. The hand held starters were either 24V lorry units running off a step up to 48v or 36v after initialisation at 24v. Alternative start systems were compressed air starters with two speed running (to prime and then fast spin ).


02/02/2022 13:11:57

Thanks for the many replies Gents!

Just to define the system a little more - The starter motor is a high performance high torque geared unit, the Bendix scroll is mounted in the end of the starter motor (just visible in the last photo looking down the block ). So, the way this operates is for the motor on energisation to push the whole of the remote shaft forwards and the pinion then engages with the ring gear and spins the engine up. The bracket shown at the front of the engine allows/supports the sprag clutch system and there is also an outer support for the pinion which fits into a bush in the bell housing. The PB bush in the housing photo below is very worn which hasn't helped the shaft alignment.

This engine is being restored after it had been 'mullered' by some unknowing mechanics when it was in Japan. The lower hook joint in the system had worn badly and damaged the bracket housing:-


The damage on the sprag support bracket caused by the lower hook joint.

The repair that had been done was that the 4 outer bolts had stripped the threads in the block and the answer they used was to put Nylok nuts on the inside of the block! (which meant the sump had to be removed to access the nuts ) not surprisingly the Nyloks (two of them ) were found lose in the sump when we stripped the engine!

We have now Helicoiled the threads and cross drilled and wirelocked the Allen screws. The dowels were also opened up to a larger size and are secured (by step drilling on the inside and by covering them with the lock wire run )

The car is a JaguarSport XJR15 road car of which only 42 were made. The engine is a 7.3litre Jaguar V12 (a stroked version of the JaguarSport XJRS 6 litre V12 ). This car was the Chassis development Prototype.

We have now identified a suitable sprag clutch arrangement which we can utilise (Reynolds Machine Tool division SO/SX series ) and we think we have found a suitable small hook joint system that has needle rollers. Available from WDS engineering supplies. But I'm still keen to find a UJ which has the ball and claw system. I am in contact with numerous ex colleagues at TWR, so I am getting assistance from their log books as well as my own, all helping to jog a 30 year old memory of these parts. The original UJ's were Dayton #20271 MTX - 5.771 DM. These we believe were American sourced and probably helicopter linkage parts.

A further part of the project is to build a replica engine based on this unit as a 'spare'.


01/02/2022 20:26:46


I am currently involved in the restoration of the engine for a rare car from the early 1990's. The engine uses a remote start system where due to space limitations the starter motor is mounted some way from the rear of the engine. To enable the starter pinion to engage with the ring gear, this starter system uses a long shaft (almost 16" long) with two hook joints and also has a one way sprag clutch onto which the 10T ring gear pinion mounts.

What I am looking for is a better hook joint than the current pin type system, the type I'm thinking of is the 'ball and claw' type often seen on machine tools (particularly table drives for milling machines ) as I believe this type does not have a very pronounced cyclic speed error.

The other item I'm looking for is a replacement for the drive sprag clutch into which the starter pinion fits. The motor operates by the usual Bendix gear which moves the pinion into mesh with the ring gear, but it would appear that the sprag clutch is there to protect against a 'backfire' which would (and does!) wreck the long drive shaft from the remote starter motor.

Here are some pictures of the current parts:-

img_0220.jpg Flywheel end of the system, shaft is 3/4" diameter.


The sprag clutch with starter pinion mounted


End view of the 'sprag' with the only markings on the component


The end which connects to the remotely mounted starter motor


A view down the length of the block showing the sprag clutch mount in the foreground and the starter motor (mounted by the blue anodised bracket ) in the rear area.

Thanks for any help / assistance / suggestions / cups of tea / and sympathy offered.


Thread: Raglan Capstan MKII
27/01/2022 20:59:48


I've just noticed your posting about this Raglan Capstan machine. This looks to be a very rare powered capstan model. It has two electro magnetic clutches inside the headstock and this allows instant speed changes to be accomplished for capstan work. I have some pictures of the insides of the headstock and a diagram of the headstock arrangement. These are like no other Raglan machine and was intended purely for capstan type work.

I believe the spindle may also be the 'LOO' type with a taper register, not the threaded type nose as used by 'normal' Raglans,

The way these capstans work was to set them up for mass production of small items (bolts, nuts, studs, short turned specials) To cut a thread for instance requires a Coventry style Die Head with corresponding dies of the correct thread, the cross slide operates as a fixed chamfer and cut off slide. There is only a power shaft at the front of the bed to power the capstan.

A very desirable machine - but only if you want to produce 500 1/4" UNF studs!


Thread: Qualters and Smith Qdm750 Restoration
27/01/2022 20:27:42

An excellent restoration job Pete. You can be very proud of that and I am sure it will give you many hours of faithful work. Mine is a delight to use and just oozes quality, as you said earlier the quill bore honing demonstrates the level of accuracy the makers were aiming for and achieving. Mine has no measurable slop in the quill even when fully extended and it certainly did not have an easy life being from a car factory.

Well done!


Thread: Fabricating a Weber Carburettor Manifold Flange
23/01/2022 21:57:40

Power specifics for naturally aspirated engines are generally very difficult to improve over a level of about 16HP/ litre / per 1000rpm. For forced induction that specific increases to around 25HP/ litre / per 1000 rpm (there are extenuating exceptions to this such as the 'qualifying' engines used in F1 in the 1.5litre F1 era which managed 60+ HP / litre / per 1000 rpm but only for 3 laps! ). Probably the best forced induction engine was the WW2 Napier Sabre H24 series 5 which managed a specific of 31HP/Litre/1000 rpm, this was considered as the pinnacle of the 'Hyper' aero engines. For 2 stroke engines you have to take into consideration the fact that the piston 'works' both above and below the crown so needs to be rated at twice the volume. A Wankel engine works on all 3 sides of the piston but is then geared to 2/3rds crank speed so needs a correction factor of 1.66.

The best 'A' series was the 970 'S' from 1965 - this was a short stroke unit which could be made to rev to 10,000 rpm and gave around 105BHP in race trim (an 850cc variant I built for a race car which ran in the Triplex Saloon car series was dyno'd at 96BHP at 9000 rpm a specific of 12.5 HP/ litre / 1000rpm ) - BL only made 5,000 of these as 'homologation specials' (worth a fortune if you have one ). I ran a 1275 (well 1310 actually) 'S' in rally trim in the late1960's with a Jim Whitehouse 'Arden' 8 port alloy head - fitted with 4 32mm Amal carbs. Given the car was a Group 'C' and was substantially lightened down to around 9cwt it performed sufficiently well to give an Escort Twin Cam or even a BDA Escort a good run for its money. The engine was giving about 130BHP; its 'transient' torque and the response with the multi carbs allowing short intake to valve head was vastly improved over the standard 5 port head, but the gearbox was always a problem even with straight cut de-speeder drop gears, TR bearings for the intermediate drop gear, and a full straight cut 'dog box'. Probably the major reason for my acute deafness now!


23/01/2022 18:59:33

I'll repeat what I said earlier - A suck through system with an Eaton type charger is a poor application, the Eaton cannot tolerate fuel going through the rotors as it will wash out the rotor bearings. This will require the supercharger to be rebuilt on a pretty regular basis (1500 to 2000 miles). If you do go down this route then remember that this is an external compression machine and the manifolding down stream of the charger needs to be 'non restrictive' as the boost is generated downstream of the charger not within the charger (that is why it is called an external compression machine). Centrifugal chargers or taper rotor chargers are better suited to tight manifold applications as they are classed as internal compression machines. For a internal compression charger look for a Comprex or Rotex machine.

It amazes me that those pictures you show are remotely driveable with the volume of the induction system from fuel supply point to cylinder. Blow down is far better from every point of view.

You haven't said what you are going to do about strengthening the drop gear - any plans to address that problem?


20/01/2022 13:18:06

Rather than using a DCOE sidedraught (as has been pointed out the way to fit these in the '60's was to replace the speedo binnacle with a battery box welded into its place), why not use a DCNA downdraught with a suitable manifold? then fit the supercharger to 'Blow down' the DCNA - far better transient performance from a blow down set up, but you'll need a pressure sensitive fuel regulator. The problem with 'suck through' forced induction systems is the lag time and in external compression superchargers 'bearing wash out' from excess fuel and in internal compression 'centrifugal chargers' the fuel gets 'centrifuged out' causing major driveability issues.

Then of course you will need to do something about the idler drop gear (between the Deva gear and the gearbox 1st motion shaft), high torque and power will destroy the standard needle roller - even with a steel top hat bush insert supporting the gearbox side bearing, the way to strengthen these bearings is to do what ST at Abingdon did and utilise a TR bearing assembly with the gear forming the cone side of the TR. The Turbo Metro had to have a torque limiting system which reduced power below 4000 rpm to protect the gearbox warranty!


Thread: Items which gave most satisfaction to make
09/01/2022 14:21:10

Ahh! At last I've accessed the album site.

Here are the photos:


General view with tool in rearward position


Side view showing stock support centre and the guide rails - nearest guide rail is also the taper former


Front view with the guide rails in the forward position. The stock support centre sits just behind the rollers.


A front view showing the spring loaded plunger of the swivelling tool block sitting just to the right of the small guide rail housing.


Side view of the tool in the forward position. This is the start position and as the tool is advanced the centre moves back and the swivel tool block produces the taper.

Here is the Recessing tool:-


Front view showing tool in position and rack of the tool slide protruding to the right


Retraction and advance slide stops - I wasn't very good at neat stamping!


Side view showing tool clamp screw - tool is 5/16th bushed into a 3/8th hole.


Rear view showing the actuator lever and rear of the pinion.


Edited By Oily Rag on 09/01/2022 14:23:54

09/01/2022 13:43:35


Not in pristine condition but here is the taper pin box tool. I have captioned one photograph so you can see how it works (or is supposed to work!). Afraid it has rusted up a bit since I last used it (probably about 50 years ago). I also made a recessing tool (again as an apprentice - its stamped 1965!) for a capstan which I regularly still use on my Raglan capstan attachment. I've added the photographs of that as well for your interest.

NOTE - Well that was a failure - something wrong with the website which is not allowing me to modify my photo albums!!

A description of the Taper Pin Box tool:-

Is a body with a sliding centre support for the stock material. One of the legs of the support has a taper machined on it and this contacts with a swivelling tool block. this allows the diameter of the work to alter as the whole box tool advances towards the headstock. The swivelling tool block mounts on the front face of the tool and a tangential cutting tool is set up with adjustment for diameter. The rollers are mounted on a non moving face and are set to the stock size of bar being machined. As the RBT advances the centre support is pushed back and this action generates the taper as given by the guide rail which is also the 'master' taper.

A description of the recessing tool:-

A simple rack and pinion driven slide is set in the front face of the tool and this is operated by hand using a lever from the rear of the tool. The rack is machined on one edge of the 'Tee nut' type tool block - the tool block has a 3/8th hole in the front face into which a scrap milling cutter is clamped. The scrap cutter is ground up to give the form required (deep hole recess or a circlip recess as desired). I have used it many times for the later on the capstan attachment of my Raglan lathe as well as on other machines with a suitable MT adaptor.

I'll post photos as soon as the website allows pictures to be uploaded to my album(s).


08/01/2022 16:56:12

Almost anything that I complete! Whether it's a repair job or a 'project' or a restoration.

Recently, whilst having a tidy up I rediscovered a tool I'd completely forgotten about. I was very impressed with it - it is a taper pin turning roller box tool which I'd made as an apprentice. Unfortunately I cannot remember whether it was a self designed tool or was 'inspired' by a toolmaker, probably a bit of both, I seem to remember that a roller box tool was an apprentice project but seem to remember that I wanted something a little different and 'out of the ordinary'. It works by using a master taper to alter the tool point, in effect copying the master taper onto the part being made. Should have patented it!


Thread: show us your workshop.
24/11/2021 12:38:47

I am afraid I fall into the negative camp on this issue Steve. As a friend of mine commented many years ago about Social Media "No good will ever come out of it"

What I don't understand is why anyone would want to make a video of their workshop, let alone why anyone would want to look at it. I avoid all SM like the plague and see it as inhabited by those with a weakness driven by vanity.

What exactly does giving you a 'thumbs up' do? Does it link me to your SM network in some way that egregious organisations can make assumptions about my preferences? If people put up YooToob links I ignore them - I have probably only ever watched any YT content on a handful of occasions and found it all to be extremely sad. Far better to communicate by the written word on a forum such as this, to a known fraternity of like minded souls.

Sorry if my views have offended, I must say however, that I do enjoy your contributions to this forum.

Thread: Axminster Drill Clamp
23/11/2021 13:15:36


To throw away £6.99 is painful, to throw away £19.99 is excruciatingly painful!

I also plan on modifying the latest purchase to better fit my 6 x 4 1/2 hacksaw table - so a little electric 'gluing' will be required to shorten the clamp arm and provide an interchangeable holder (bigger pad, bed of spikes, swivelling vee groove and anything else I dream up ). I had worked out a plan to fit a shoe retainer which can be inserted and tightened from the top of the curved groove in the hacksaw table, bit like the tee nut mod posted earlier but more suited to the hacksaw. If it is a disaster I can stand the £7 loss!

I'm not only getting grumpy in old age but stingy as well.


Thread: Plan B upgraded to Plan A
23/11/2021 12:50:03

+1 for a local farmer with a Teleporter. The telescopic ram will even be able to drop the machine on the spot at the back of your garage with correct use of straps.


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