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Member postings for Oily Rag

Here is a list of all the postings Oily Rag has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Items which gave most satisfaction to make
09/01/2022 14:21:10

Ahh! At last I've accessed the album site.

Here are the photos:


General view with tool in rearward position


Side view showing stock support centre and the guide rails - nearest guide rail is also the taper former


Front view with the guide rails in the forward position. The stock support centre sits just behind the rollers.


A front view showing the spring loaded plunger of the swivelling tool block sitting just to the right of the small guide rail housing.


Side view of the tool in the forward position. This is the start position and as the tool is advanced the centre moves back and the swivel tool block produces the taper.

Here is the Recessing tool:-


Front view showing tool in position and rack of the tool slide protruding to the right


Retraction and advance slide stops - I wasn't very good at neat stamping!


Side view showing tool clamp screw - tool is 5/16th bushed into a 3/8th hole.


Rear view showing the actuator lever and rear of the pinion.


Edited By Oily Rag on 09/01/2022 14:23:54

09/01/2022 13:43:35


Not in pristine condition but here is the taper pin box tool. I have captioned one photograph so you can see how it works (or is supposed to work!). Afraid it has rusted up a bit since I last used it (probably about 50 years ago). I also made a recessing tool (again as an apprentice - its stamped 1965!) for a capstan which I regularly still use on my Raglan capstan attachment. I've added the photographs of that as well for your interest.

NOTE - Well that was a failure - something wrong with the website which is not allowing me to modify my photo albums!!

A description of the Taper Pin Box tool:-

Is a body with a sliding centre support for the stock material. One of the legs of the support has a taper machined on it and this contacts with a swivelling tool block. this allows the diameter of the work to alter as the whole box tool advances towards the headstock. The swivelling tool block mounts on the front face of the tool and a tangential cutting tool is set up with adjustment for diameter. The rollers are mounted on a non moving face and are set to the stock size of bar being machined. As the RBT advances the centre support is pushed back and this action generates the taper as given by the guide rail which is also the 'master' taper.

A description of the recessing tool:-

A simple rack and pinion driven slide is set in the front face of the tool and this is operated by hand using a lever from the rear of the tool. The rack is machined on one edge of the 'Tee nut' type tool block - the tool block has a 3/8th hole in the front face into which a scrap milling cutter is clamped. The scrap cutter is ground up to give the form required (deep hole recess or a circlip recess as desired). I have used it many times for the later on the capstan attachment of my Raglan lathe as well as on other machines with a suitable MT adaptor.

I'll post photos as soon as the website allows pictures to be uploaded to my album(s).


08/01/2022 16:56:12

Almost anything that I complete! Whether it's a repair job or a 'project' or a restoration.

Recently, whilst having a tidy up I rediscovered a tool I'd completely forgotten about. I was very impressed with it - it is a taper pin turning roller box tool which I'd made as an apprentice. Unfortunately I cannot remember whether it was a self designed tool or was 'inspired' by a toolmaker, probably a bit of both, I seem to remember that a roller box tool was an apprentice project but seem to remember that I wanted something a little different and 'out of the ordinary'. It works by using a master taper to alter the tool point, in effect copying the master taper onto the part being made. Should have patented it!


Thread: show us your workshop.
24/11/2021 12:38:47

I am afraid I fall into the negative camp on this issue Steve. As a friend of mine commented many years ago about Social Media "No good will ever come out of it"

What I don't understand is why anyone would want to make a video of their workshop, let alone why anyone would want to look at it. I avoid all SM like the plague and see it as inhabited by those with a weakness driven by vanity.

What exactly does giving you a 'thumbs up' do? Does it link me to your SM network in some way that egregious organisations can make assumptions about my preferences? If people put up YooToob links I ignore them - I have probably only ever watched any YT content on a handful of occasions and found it all to be extremely sad. Far better to communicate by the written word on a forum such as this, to a known fraternity of like minded souls.

Sorry if my views have offended, I must say however, that I do enjoy your contributions to this forum.

Thread: Axminster Drill Clamp
23/11/2021 13:15:36


To throw away £6.99 is painful, to throw away £19.99 is excruciatingly painful!

I also plan on modifying the latest purchase to better fit my 6 x 4 1/2 hacksaw table - so a little electric 'gluing' will be required to shorten the clamp arm and provide an interchangeable holder (bigger pad, bed of spikes, swivelling vee groove and anything else I dream up ). I had worked out a plan to fit a shoe retainer which can be inserted and tightened from the top of the curved groove in the hacksaw table, bit like the tee nut mod posted earlier but more suited to the hacksaw. If it is a disaster I can stand the £7 loss!

I'm not only getting grumpy in old age but stingy as well.


Thread: Plan B upgraded to Plan A
23/11/2021 12:50:03

+1 for a local farmer with a Teleporter. The telescopic ram will even be able to drop the machine on the spot at the back of your garage with correct use of straps.


Thread: Axminster Drill Clamp
22/11/2021 21:22:07

Not having seen the Axminster ones I can't comment - other than in the photographs they certainly look like siblings if not twins!

And at the end of the day it's just a bl**dy clamp, not a micrometer!


Thread: Best way to make valve guides
22/11/2021 21:16:13


Why not 'gun drill' the bores with a single lip cutter made from drill stock? Guaranteed size and roundness as well as concentric.

I think this has been covered before, but more to do with automotive size valve guides, in that thread I replied the production method I most favoured was the broached finish with 'ballising'

Here is the picture I posted from that thread of the Triumph Meriden tool used for producing the PB guides in their engines:-



Thread: Axminster Drill Clamp
22/11/2021 13:56:45

As chance would have it this morning I had to go for a Blood sample, near to the blood clinic is the tool shop I bought my drill press clamp from, so I called in to get some bottle brushes and a few other odds and bits. Whilst there I checked on the drill press clamps and it has now gone down in price to £6.99! So I grabbed another as I'm bound to lose one sooner or later and at £6.99 it looks like a bargain when compared to other retailers. Can't believe Axminster can charge nigh on £20 for them.


Thread: How to read a micrometer
21/11/2021 22:04:30

So Chris....

...How do you go on with fitting a ball bearing? make the housing to the nearest thou (i.e on the loose side ) and then use Loctite? or if it is a little tight 'press' on regardless (pun intended )?

There are ways to achieve engineering fits which are simple if thought through enough. Firstly the tool needs to be sharp and set to centre height (I use an old saw blade and the tangent principle ) and one way to get the infeed accuracy is to set the topslide over to give 1 thou infeed on the topslide to equal 1/10 thou infeed on radius (i.e Sine angle for 1/10 ).This is where a Zeus book is invaluable.


As for your micrometer I am reading it from the photograph as 1 + 8 + 1 + 9 (not being able to see the 9 on the left hand vernier scale I am assuming it lines up! )  = 0.1819"

Again, for accurate measurements I only use a micrometer (a digital caliper is a 'near enuff' instrument ) and I always calibrate the mike against slip gauges set to the size I'm measuring to.


Edited By Oily Rag on 21/11/2021 22:05:13

Thread: Plan B upgraded to Plan A
21/11/2021 21:20:55

Revert to a Plan A- /B+ you won't get the 'bike bug' out of your system that easy!

Welcome to the 'club', hope you enjoy your new hobby whichever 'branch' you decide to follow.


Thread: Axminster Drill Clamp
21/11/2021 21:15:33

Yes, I have 2, made by Nielsen tools (less than half the price [£7.99 not that long ago] from a local tool shop than what Axminster are charging) and use them on my pillar drill(s ). The QDM 750 drill can bite like a terrier if you get it wrong (16mm drill through 8mm thick stainless plate! ).

As the thread is quite long and the eye nut fouled the underside of the table casting I made some natty washers which clear the eye nut, locate in the tee nut ways, and take less time to clamp the clamp to the table. I have one long arm and one short armed clamp - best £15.98 I've ever spent (well recently at least ).

EDIT: Forgot to mention they are also very handy for the 6x 4 1/2 hacksaw for holding 'difficult jobs'.


Edited By Oily Rag on 21/11/2021 21:17:29

Thread: Best "v" thread form
20/11/2021 17:44:55

Just to explain further in the example of the F1 engine given earlier, the failure was not the fastener but rather the failure of the parent metal the fastener entered. The failure was the parent metal cracking out from the thread root, the thread itself was not stripping. Therefore the root radius, or lack of it, of the female thread in the parent metal was the weakness in the metric thread form. In recognition of this stress raising, the MJ series thread addresses this as does the UN(C)J form.


Thread: Qualters and Smith Qdm750 Restoration
19/11/2021 17:00:11


Reviewing this page I have just had a thought about your table locking problem. Has someone previously inverted the column clamp casting?

It is difficult to see in your pictures but on mine the table column casting has the bottom to table centreline at about 2 1/2" with the top portion measuring about 2". This gives the 'deep' nut retaining flat on the left hand side (looking from the front of the machine ) and the handle side has much less depth when compared to the nut flatting on the left side.

I can also see that it may have been inverted if a previous owner needed the table clamp on the left side. In fact it does give more throat between spindle and table if inverted - but not much more than just using the base plate table.

Did you find a scribe line for table 'zero' position? I see in the Operators Manual it says to clock the table for level so guess they didn't mark them for that reason.

Thanks for the heads up on the de-ruster. I found 25litres of Evaporust for £100 on 'Tinterweb which I was considering (next restoration project is a [very rusty] Bridgeport! ). But it looks like I'll need probably 50 litres or more to immerse the knee into, using a big agricultural chemicals 200 litre barrel.

You'll have to have a sacrificial plate for the top of the Hoffman - don't want to see any drill holes in that nice table!


Thread: Milling machine clamps
19/11/2021 10:30:39

Have a look at the MSC (ex J&L Industrial, in Wednesbury) they sell some individual American made small clamp parts that I use on my Aciera (10mm table slots) - even though I have therefore to use 3/8" parts.


Thread: Best "v" thread form
19/11/2021 10:27:03

....As my post above, friction is important but it is but one element of a threads function. To re-emphasise my earlier post....

.....It was an insight to the Japanese that Whitworth had calculated the best form of thread overall, when considering the whole application spectrum of threads.


Thread: Qualters and Smith Qdm750 Restoration
18/11/2021 17:20:51

It is all coming along nicely Pete. It'll be so pretty you won't want to despoil it with nasty old swarf! That Hoffman RT is a nice piece of kit and appears also to be in pristine condition. I've got the same model but only use it on my mill preferring to 'mark out' for drilling jobs, done on the surface plate and then optical centre punching before either into a vice or clamping direct to the table.

What de-ruster have you used? Evap Rust by any chance?


Thread: Best "v" thread form
18/11/2021 16:16:37


Apologies for repeating myself, it's one of the myriad problems of getting old!

However, in my defence, 'Clogs' has come to my rescue by seeing this (apparently) for the first time. So my repeating it was validated in his instance. It was an insight to the Japanese that Whitworth had calculated the best form of thread overall, when considering the whole application spectrum of threads.

As the Japanese Chief Designer, Mr Kanada, looked at the Whitworth form he declared that it was superior in all its calculations to any other existing thread. I think he was most surprised by his investigations and doubly so that it was created more than 150 years ago and even more so that it was now considered obsolete. Politics have ruled over Engineering in the case of threads and their forms.

The 'cure' of the 7/16 BSW thread was then extended to the use of both 3/16 and 1/4 BSW threads elsewhere on the engine.


17/11/2021 16:27:45

There was a case where a number of years ago I was involved with a 3 litre V10 F1 engine made in the UK by a Japanese manufacturer. The inter cylinder main bearing webs were breaking out of the main cylinder block casting after just 400km running distance in the car. The cracks were forming at the thread roots of the M11 main bearing / sump retaining bolts. The redesign to install M12 would add 7mm to the overall length of the engine and an increase in weight calculated as 2.8kg (the engine was one of the lightest in F1 at around 93kg for a fully dressed unit ). The suggestion was therefore made that we should use MJ11 form threads (MJ being the aerospace form with radiused root form similar to Whitworth ). The cost of MJ11 'specials' and delivery for taps was £400+ and 9 months.

A simple but effective compromise was reached by using 7/16 BSW which cured the crack formation problem. After this the Japanese head of design declared that "Mr Whitworth very clever man!" The taps were bought next day for less than £20. A subsequent re-design saw the adoption of BSW in most of the stressed areas with reductions in bolt sizes and overall engine weight. Sometimes it is difficult to improve on a good design - other times it is sometimes necessary to take a backwards view to see a way forwards


Thread: Threads on DTI’s
09/11/2021 13:05:38

For engine builders - A good tip for dial indicators for an extended foot is a bicycle spoke. Old spokes will be right for use on a Mercer or a 'new' metric spoke for a Mitutoya.

We used these for setting up a degree plate on engines where we did a 'swing about' TDC off the piston crown down the plug hole (swing about is determining the 0.005" drop either side of the TDC point and splitting the difference ). Also good for setting cam MOP (maximum opening point) by the same method. The spoke can be bent to fit the available space without losing its strength.


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