Here is a list of all the postings Oily Rag has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: A worrying development in the Covid-19 battleground|
Quote from Martin Connelly:-
"I was reading a report that said the population of India has about 90% with vitamin D deficiency. Since this has been linked to higher susceptibility to Covid-19 it seems like a perfect storm of conditions...."
This is quite a surprise as I always thought that Vitamin D was generally related to lack of sunlight so was more prevalent in fair skinned northern peoples. However, given that almost all Hindu's and Sikh's are vegetarian does this have a bearing on the level of deficiency?
|Thread: Making a knurled thumb wheel|
Just a question here on why we have to go to YuToob to see a video? I see lots on here posted which appear within the dialogue box (Jason seems well versed in this method) - I hate it when I click on a link that takes me off to a 'social media' webpage and I then have to agree to their cookies (snooping!) to see what someone has posted. The bind is then that I have to 'back page' to get back to this website. Is there a financial reward for how many views a video scores?
|Thread: Dangerous eBay listings can be removed by regulators|
I have a notice prominently displayed in my workshop which states that as a condition of entry to the premises persons do so entirely at their own risk! There is also a notice which states the use of any machinery is only to be undertaken by technically competent persons with accredited authorisation. Probably means nothing in a Court of Law but as it is private property its a good shout as far as I'm concerned!
This Fleabay ruling will/can have quite serious implications, apart from unguarded, non interlocked machinery using dangerous 'sharp' cutting edges - for instance, does the sale of brake components for vehicles, where the fitting of such parts in 'unregulated', breach Elfin Safety laws? Does the sale of engine components potentially encourage modifications to vehicles which breach emissions laws? Does the sale of any electrical item of greater than 60Volt potentially breach electrical safety issues? This looks like a bottomless pit of litigation coming to a court room nearby.
Why does everybody want to be a 'victim' of their own stupidity? The world is going bonkers!!
|Thread: Milling on a Lathe with a Vertical Slide|
Get a Milling machine!
Lathe mill systems are awfully limited in what you can hold.
|Thread: Mt3 extension for tailstock|
Never used an extension, I presume here you have a 2MT socket in your tailstock barrel and want to use a 2 to 3 MT convertor. What I did was I made a #3MT tailstock barrel, forced upon me by the fact that the ex-school Emco Maximat S11 had suffered at the hands of the 'yoof' and the tailstock barrel had been detached and used for unimagined purposes (or just thrown in the local canal!).
The barrel just happened to be 30mm diameter and in my 'scrap box' was a Go Kart back axle of 30mm ground bar (with a hole through it) but even better it had a 3mm keyway along the majority of its length. The tailstock had a 2.5mm key in it to radially locate the barrel - so a quick re-make of that to 3mm and I had the perfect new barrel. I made a PB bush nut to fix in the end of the tube for the leadscrew, and then reamed the barrel to #3MT (purely because the hole through the original axle suited a #3 MT minor diameter). The nose of the barrel protrudes about 40mm out due to the #3 MT would otherwise interfere with the keyway.
It's not too difficult to make a new barrel - and you can make it as long as you like. On my other machine (a Raglan LJ) I have a capstan operated tailstock, home made again, but using a Raglan 5" capstan tailstock casting for the rack pinion housing.
|Thread: Model differential|
Sorry to be a pedantic but that is a 'Torque Biasing Differential' rather than a 'Limited Slip Differential'. They have differing operational and vastly different behavioural characteristics to the vehicles on road performance. I used to have one of Mr. Rod Quaife's 'Ratchet and Pawl' differentials (an early version of the TBD but without the subtedly of power progression from 'off' to 'on' as is now achieved with the Gleason type - which the new product is now) fitted in a Mini Cooper 'S' which was lethal when entering a corner as the car would deviate off course due to driving the inner front wheel rather than the outer wheel as in a 'normal' differential.
Extremely nice work - well done!
|Thread: Rex Tingley Valveless design|
Ahh Yes - a sleeve valve indeed. Wonderful engines, smooth, quiet, and surprisingly efficient. We looked long and hard at a sleeve valve system for a F1 engine - but then the regulations banned anything other than poppet valves.
|Thread: Boring aluminium - What am I getting wrong|
You need to show us a view from the boring tool slide axis (a 90 degree shot to the current one) to allow us to judge how the tool is set with regard to centre line. Normally for boring operations I set the tool slightly 'high' as you would when boring from a lathe toolpost. The other question is what is the tool top rake like, if set slightly high you need a good positive top rake when working with most aluminium otherwise you can get tip welding.
Was the tip brazed on by a passing seagull? Not a good boring tool in my estimation - just a general purpose item. I use either Boremasters, Criterion (solid carbide), or a reputable insert tip boring tool with a decent polished high rake insert for a good quality bore in aluminium. Plus, of course, a little white spirit / WD40 / or Russian Fat.
The final thing is did you have a lose gib or one that was nipped?
|Thread: Clarke AC180 ‘Automatic Battery Charger’|
|Thread: Taper nosed drill chuck|
I see from the Grace's Guide, highlighted by MG, that the Cardinal Brand was a brand name of Brooke Tool! You certainly learn something every day.
The Brooke Tool chuck (marked as made for Alfred Herberts ) has the suspected JT#1 mounting taper (I have still to check this taper) in a sleeve which is secured by the grub screw seen in the integral shanked patent drawing. The chucks I have are #1 and have a capacity of 1/4" but are very robust for this size when compared to the Jacobs equivalent.
|Thread: Clarke AC180 ‘Automatic Battery Charger’|
I had a look on your behalf at the Clarke manual downloading site, they list an AC80 but no AC 180. There is a BC 180 listed which may be a similar construct (or later variant). Unfortunately the site area with the extra manuals list (probably for older stuff ) is 'not secure' according to my browser security, so I was reluctant to investigate further. The picture you posted looks similar to the Lucas HD battery charger from the 1980's - a charger that could also be used as an emergency starter the current draw being catered for easily with this unit. There was also a Battery Tester that used a Zambezi pile for checking 500 Amp discharge rates which was a Lucas designed unit but I believe it was made by Clarke under licence.
|Thread: Taper nosed drill chuck|
I have got 2 Cardinals and one Brook made chuck. Both Cardinals have the integral shanks (that's a definite! I looked at the drawing in the patent and it is exactly the same ) I need to measure the taper in the back of the Brook one as it does look very shallow, and I don't have a JT1 to try in it at the moment. Probably need to make some test tapers up to check it/
That is an good point about the chucks 'working' the wrong way round - the patent mentions the scroll can be made in either direction depending on whether the drilling operation is for right hand or left hand cutting. Both the Cardinal and the Brook versions I have operate the 'correct' way - but then I checked my other chucks, I still sometimes get the opening/closing direction wrong when adjusting to size, even after all these years, but which in hindsight is the intuitive way to tighten and release drills when in the tailstock.
The Cardinal has a key pin hole of 0.192" (sloppy 3/16th? ) whilst the Brook has a key pin hole of 0.188" (snug 3/16th! ). I'll have to dig around to see if I have a #3 Jacobs key (B&D power drill size? ).
I did recently have to modify a 'Charlees' chuck to take a 5/16th key pin which then suited a Jacobs key (the pin size was 6.8mm!)
I hadn't noticed the #1MT shank was integral on the Cardinal, the Brook made one has either a #1JT or possibly a #3 Jarno Taper - the hole measures 0.400" as best I can deduce, so out for both those at 0.384" and 0.375" respectively. As it appears to be a very slow taper it may even be a B&S #4 1/2. Time to get my calibrated small balls out!
Yes Michael, they both have a very nice feel - the Brook Tool one especially. I had to soak them in white spirit for a few hours as the grease they were originally packed in had solidified to something like cement. The patent drawing is interesting in the use of a conical scroll - must have been expensive to make!
Amongst the selection of tools I have recently acquired were these unusual taper nosed drill chucks. They were manufactured by Cardinal and Brooke Tool of Birmingham. The Brooke Tool chucks are engraved as "Made for Alfred Herbert Ltd, Coventry England" It also carries the legend "Manufactured by Brooke Tool , Birmingham, Eng" and the legend "No 1, CAP 1/4", Pat. 381441"
I looked up the Patent Number and found it was issued in 1932.
I was trying to find a key to fit this chuck and wondered if anyone has a similar chuck, and if so, what Jacobs key number fits it. I have tried most of mine with no success. I assume it uses a Jacobs 'key' as they have Jacobs #1 mounting tapers. Considering they are most likely pre war they are in great condition being unused!
Upper chuck the Cardinal made unit (with #1 MT / JT1 shank) and lower the Brook Tool item (with JT 1 mount)
Close up of the Brook Tool engraving/etching
|Thread: Small Boley or Levin collet identification|
Here are some (rather poor quality - managed to break the lens glass on my phone!) pictures of the collets mentioned in my opening post.
I can get them out of the packets and make some better measurements and also borrow Mrs Rag's phone for some improved pictures!
Thanks for any guidance,
Amongst a range of equipment I have recently acquired is an assortment of small watchmakers collets. These are all new items in packets - but what machines do they fit? They are mainly imperial sizes although there are some metric items marked in the 'Boley 'system' ie 23 being a 2.3mm bore. there are some 'short' types of the 'U' type and some 'U' type collet nuts. The dimensions of the back diameter is typically 12mm for the 'U' type, 9mm for the 'T' type and 7mm for the 'S' type. There are two other types 'K', 'L' and 'M' which have threaded shanks of 3.5mm, 4.5mm and 6.0mm respectively. these collets have hexagons (for closure) on their front faces.
I will post some photos
|Thread: A long in the tooth wannabe engineer|
I see you live in my neck of the woods! Good to have another bike nut on the Forum. You will not be short of advice here on any topic you choose, it is a good place to mix with the founts of knowledge,and you will learn from some mentors of excellence. I do every day!
|Thread: How Many Barristers Needed To Change An Ink Cartridge?|
Yet another 'scam' by the printer manufacturers is the rate of printing. Higher priced machines have a faster print rate, probably anything upto 3 times faster than the bargain basement products. But, the machines are all identical internally except for a pin selector switch to 'slow' the print rate down on the low cost version. We had a high cost machine that wasn't performing to the expected page print rate and when the service engineer came to look at it he opened the printer up and selected the 'fast' option and went away - saying someone on the build line had set the switch in the wrong (ie cheap!) position.
|Thread: Precision V-blocks (32mm & 7") - any UK buying advice ?|
Apart from the usual Eclipse and Starret made Vee Blocks I picked up some excellent adjustable ones with a very thin 'web' which allows most crankshafts to be mounted on a surface plate.
I think these came from MSC - probably out the 'clear out' corner a few years ago. Made by SPI and excellent quality.
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