Here is a list of all the postings Steve Wan has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Eclipse Demagnetiser operation manual-needed|
Thanks for the reply! I appreciate your answers. Seems I have to do without the manual.
I got a vertex version of demagnetiser. The top aluminium cover has to be replaced with a steel plate.
Thought of getting a detailed study of the internal circuit with the manual.
Good day! I'm in need of operating manuals from Eclipse Demagnetiser. Appreciates anyone can email me a scan PDF.
Also I got a cheaper version from Vertex (Taiwan). It comes with an aluminium top cover while I notice the UK-made Eclipse demagnetiser has 2 separate thick metal plates fixed on the top. Just being curious why is it made in 2 parts?
I like to upgrade my Vertex model with a steel top plate to prevent scratches while I draw objects across it to demagnetise. Wise to made in 2 parts also?
Thankful any feedbacks as we're all learning
|Thread: Machine plate grouting (most common method)|
Thanks so much for the feedbacks and concerns.
It's at the raw stage now. The concrete fill is to dampen the vibration only. I would prefer using concrete fill as I'm familiar with. The mix would include loose fibre-glass threads and wire mesh to hold the structure intact from cracks. Basically, I will make an inch deep with a well around the aluminium block where the saw is attached.
If anyone here is keen to follow through the process, please keep my email: email@example.com
I shall post photos as I get along, it may take time as I have many other jobs. The whole process is made by small scale Sherline mill /lathe and plenty of hand work such as sawing/filing and sanding.
Hi Micheal, I'm trying to figure out the best footprint Hi Ian, nice to hear from you again. Yes, it would be mounted on 4 legs. I may cast the concrete on a wooden plywood tray with a thick base, supported by 4 legs. The motor is screwed underneath which in turn pressure the pulley belt. The power hacksaw unit is then bolted above the tray.
Hi John, unable to see the Taig cast. Perhaps, I find a baking tray to cast the slab. Once dried, I invert it and bolt to the base of the power saw. As the tray has a curvy edges, spray a texture paint. One may take it as part of cast iron.
Hi Bazyle, I'm open to any option. Your way is good for servicing in the future to take the heavy load away when not in use, easy to carry off the weight-thanks!
Has anyone here try concrete grouting over a metal base plate to increase the weight of the machine? I like to add more weight on the power hacksaw base plate. I need to know what's the most common practise used. Or simply using extended bolts and pour the mortar over the inverted base plate? Appreciates any tips and guides-Steve Wan
|Thread: Unknown Power Hacksaw?|
Anyone own this amazing Power hacksaw or ever used it before?
I like to build one, I need more info.
Any helps is highly appreciated.
Greetings! I have not appeared for a long time
Was too busy in my tiny workshop and a BIG hello to Nigel from Scotland.
Can anyone here helps to address this issue? I need to find out more about this power hacksaw's origin, name and even better the product manual?
The image is in the photo section > Steve's Workshop.
The saw is propelled by 2 side rods which is amazingly interesting. I like to build a smaller version but I need a detailed mechanics first...
Appreciates any help here.
Edited By JasonB on 18/04/2014 15:56:14
|Thread: 1/4HP bench drill modification-slow speed|
Hi Ian SC
I see your idea by making a new groove at the motor pulley top would definately slow the speed more.
But as you know the pulley at the middle are resting on a flat steel plate and not a made rod support like those medium range drill press which may tilt the pulley side way so I decided to belt only the lowest grooves instead.
Hi Jeff Dayman
If you own a press drill at 1/4 HP you can note the difference. It comes with 2 pulleys with 5 steps and the lowest speed is at 500rpm. I turned the small cap pulley and shifted the original motor pulley to the middle. The table support has 2 adjustable heights to add more drilling space when the moveable drill table is too low. Simply swing the moveable table back and use the support table.
By far you're the 1st UK visitor to my small homeworkshop A pleasure to share with you my past and new hobby from AirFix, Revell, Tamiya to Sherline metal-machining. Wish you ever success in your new year resolution.
Yes! I know about that I decided to narrow down my speed to 2 ways. High and low. The high speed is best for 4mm and low speed for 8mm. Those near the range can yet be used. I have tried drilling 1.5mm using the high speed although slow but gets the job done without breakage.
Thanks for your output guys, I would try to share more in the near future than asking questions.
Thanks! Yup! I heard a lot about small drill press not slow enough for bigger drill bits so I have put up a solution here to share. In fact, the design worked so well that I got another same brand and model drill press as spare after a period of 5 years.
As things go, China stuff may change as well as prices.
Not long ago, someone from Denmark googled me to ask how I made my 1/4 HP bench drill to go slow speed. Hence, I would like to share my design with anyone out there facing the same problem. Normally the bench drill of this type has a minimum speed of 500 rpm, not suitable for drill bits ranging from 7mm to 10mm. My design allows the spindle speed to go as low as 150rpm or lower with high torque output.
Moreover, some other added stuff to improve the press srill further
See album > Steve's Workshop
Any doubts, do drop me a note, glad to learn and share ideas.
|Thread: Record Bench Drill model DMD/RPD manual/info|
Wonder anyone out there would be using the old heavy duty cast iron Record press drill made in the 90s which is now replaced by Asian type model. It comes with a hexagonal base with special adjustable clamp for the drill table.
See link for the model:
I hope to get info of the clamping design. Any scan drawings, photo or manual would be appreciated very much.
Steve Wan, email : firstname.lastname@example.org
|Thread: Chemico grinding paste for valves only?|
Thanks for the fruitful advise but Sherline bed is not an extrusion nor aluminium. Totally a cast iron bed as well as the bed base. The width of the bed is only 5mm to 8mm contact, wonder at this so narrow surfaces worth the effort to scrape?
Simply use a grinding paste clean up the high spots is it easier? Of course, it requires a careful cleaning perhaps a light polish to remove any embeded leftovers.
Back again after a break, I just bough a can of Chemico with fine and coarse paste on either end. Thinking of ways to lap my small Sherline lathe bed to level up the wear after 12 years of use.
New to this product, any tips and advise how best I use it? Wonder any lapping youtubes here...
|Thread: Hot rolled steel vs Cold rolled steel which is better?|
Hi Richard, Neil and David
Thanks for the tips! Wonder a normal kitchen toaster oven is able to carry out the annealling process? If i could recall, temp around 250 deg. and duration of 30 mins?
Open to more suggestions
Yes again! cold rolled steel have a better finish. Guess I made a wrong move getting the hot rolled plates, may have to mill a bit/sand it flat for better clamping on the mill bed.
Have not tried getting stuffs from Malaysia yet. I usually mail-order from College Engineering Supply from UK, Hemingway kits do have some nice castings.
Only cast iron is hard to comeby locally, other metals are relatively easy to get though.
Thanks for the reply
I was at a lost when I got to the metal supplier asking myself which is better for my 2 projects. One for the back plate to raise my mill z axis higher (small miller cowells type) and second a mounting plate on to mill bed to extend the table width for clamping jobs.
Hot rolled plate may not be as flat but it's stress free, warping is minimum.
While cold rolled plate being more expensive, flat and free of oxide, it contains compressed stresses during production. Will it warp over time when under heavy loads? After I googled, many machine manufactures prefer using hot rolled plates than cold rolled....any comments?
|Thread: Honing worn out small dovetails|
Yes! It could be more practical to make a hollow section but I wanted to cut down too many joints for such a small machine. I read a lot about hollow body later filled with concrete/epoxy. Did a discussion here last year.
That will be my next bigger lathe making project in the near future using I beams and stronger AC motor...too early to spell out clearly now.
If you're into similar hobby in mini-machine building, we could be pals and exchange design ideas and suggestions by emails.
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