Here is a list of all the postings Simon Collier has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 1" Minnie boiler stays|
Are you determined to use this old fashioned method? If so, use the normal solder, not the lead free stuff. I would silver solder plain copper stays. No one I know would dream of soft soldering stays these days. Oh, and best not to use Bakers fluid in the workshop as the HCl fumes will rust nearby items overnight. Do it outside (how do I know this...).
|Thread: Boiler makers|
Why don’t you make it? Sounds as though it would be a lot quicker.
|Thread: Myford ML7 questions|
Lots of Myford cult members on here but for starters, head and tail stock are 2 MT. I got a Dewhurst type switch online from USA and a friend kindly wired it in for me. Before that the previous original owner just turned it on and off at the power point. Try the forum search box and you will finds heaps on Ml 7s.
and welcome to the forum!
|Thread: What quantity of silver solder needed|
I estimate I used three times as much silver solder as an expert would have on my first boiler. Mostly due to too big joint gaps. Like many beginners I got too hung up on the joint gaps you read about, exemplified by a recent thread on here. The solder (Easyflow type) ran straight through the gaps and out the other side. Rather than trying to calculate how much you need, just get plenty. Always good to have plenty in stock. It never gets cheaper.
|Thread: Overseas Distribution to restart|
I got issue 4642 over three weeks ago, leaving a six issue hole in my 15 year collection, but nothing since. I see little point in resubscribing now that my collection is incomplete.
|Thread: Bandsaw blade speed for brass.|
I once tried to cut copper sheet on my wood bandsaw. Stripped the teeth from the ordinary carbon steel blade in a flash. I now use my jigsaw with suitable blade to cut large sheet such as 3 mm copper and 1.6 mm steel. I can cut quite straight with a guide fence clamped on.
|Thread: Australian diesel loco in 5” gauge.|
A truely impressive model. I am often underwealmed by diesel models with electric motors and battery, but to design and make the engine yourself for a highly detailed model is quite something. I hope I can look forward to a write up in AME and a front cover picture.
|Thread: Lamp Post Engine|
Beautitiful and different engine. Being a model it would surely have to be published in Model Engineer. I wonder why Jim C suggested MEW, perhaps because he subscribes to it?
|Thread: I particularly enjoy the recent Myford restoration articles|
I used to resent all the stuff on Myfords in the magazines. Then a very nice Ml 7 fell into my lap for peanuts, so now I like the articles.
|Thread: Small drill bits, <<1mm|
I recently bought a set of 61-80 Sutton drills on EBay. About 80$, but several places had them at $120. Cheap small drills are rubbish. I too looked at some under magnification and some were just rounded blobs that could not possibly cut. I've been making injectors and you need sharp, accurate drills.
|Thread: apprentice vise|
Beautiful work and great video as usual Celso.
|Thread: Overseas Distribution to restart|
How about ME?
|Thread: Smokebox Black Paint|
The smell should give a good idea. Try enamel thinner or all purpose thinner with a test sample. So long as nothing precipitates out it should be OK.
|Thread: 7 1/4 BR Brake Van Drawings Wanted|
Doug Hewson published his wagon designs in EIM, now compiled in his book.
|Thread: Baker valve gear|
I just checked SR & S. That has got to be a typo or similar. Follow your other reference.
|Thread: vacuum brakes|
Just exhaust the ejector to atmosphere. Both my engines have the ejectors pointing at the ground with no pipes on the outlet. You'll pull more vacuum and avoid a lot of unnecessary work.
|Thread: Problems bending 3/16" dia copper pipe without kinking|
Make deep grooves with parting tool into which your tube is a very close fit. Anneal tube and bend tube by hand, with jig in the vice. This one is for 1/4 and 5/32 copper tube. The tube sides are constrained so cannot flatten.
|Thread: Recommended sizes for copper pipe unions & nipples|
PM me with your email address, and I can send you relevant bits.
How about nipples and olives rather than standard pipe tails. You could try 1/4 olives parted off with 45 degree tool, 5/16 x 40 threads as you will have very little wall thickness, and nipples with a 3/16 hole opening to 1/4 for the olive and threaded to match the 3/8 nut. Brian Wilson uses this system in his gauge 1 Eric book.
Union nuts for 3/16 pipe are 7/16 Hex with 5/16 32 ME threads. You should find information on line. Maybe have a look at Steam fittings.co.uk website for the sizes. The detailed info is in Stan Bray's book on building locos and probably Kozo's books too.
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