Here is a list of all the postings Jo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Outstanding Service|
Geoffrey, you were lucky they had the items in stock, I had to wait over 18 months for them to replace a substandard casting that they had sent me which they did not have in stock .
I do wish that suppliers would tell you if they do not have a casting in stock and when they are expecting to have one cast and available for. Such long delays from suppliers are very fustrating when you want to get on with your model.
|Thread: Why is my messages not replying!!!!!!!!!|
We have no problems modifying our (MEM) software, even I can do it
Other forums have their own
|Thread: feeling a bit miffed at the moment|
Be careful if you put a wanted/forsale item on here: I advertised my Hobbymat forsale and the only reply I had was from a scammer
Whatever you do don't reply to those Emails.
Edited By Jo on 03/11/2013 10:16:07
|Thread: Looking for help and advice|
Sadly so many people wait until they retire to take up our hobby and then have great expectations of what they want to build.
I always advise these people: Join a club, find out what other members make, find something you want to make, find someone who other members admit to being good at making those things, make good friends with that person and then use them as your mentor.
What ever you do do not ask more than one model engineer for their opinion on doing something... there will always be one more way of doing a thing than there were people you asked. All very confusing to the beginner! If you stick with one mentor they will already know how to over come the quirks in the way in which they work.
|Thread: is this paperwork still ok|
Talk to your boiler inspector: See what they required.
The ticket is well out of date so be prepared for a full strip down.
|Thread: Gear cutting|
Hanning in his designs made maximum use of his set of 8DP gear cutters that he had no doubt invested a lot of money in. But on the full sized engines you find that each of the shafts have a different DP. On a 2" model this will normally be 9DP, 8DP and 7DP. The result of this 'bodge' to use the same DP gear cutter is to change the centre lines of all the shafts and be warned they do not necessarily move at right angles to each other. So be aware that correcting the number of teeth to make a gear chain that looks much like the original is not an easy task, you will need to change the 2nd shaft location and assuming it is a Fowler the 3rd shaft location. Having said that having all the gears of the same DP is instantaneously recognisable to any rivet counter.
You cannot run a 12DP gear with a 8DP gear the profile is totally wrong. Also a 11 tooth gear cannot be cut with a standard gear cutter: the minimum number of teeth using a standard gear cutter is 12 teeth . You might want to look to buy a commercially hobbed 11 tooth gear once you have worked out which DP you want.
Which engine are you looking to build?
P.S. My own BB1 design is only out by one tooth on one gear from the original Fowler BB1 gear chain I am looking for somewhere to post my full BB1 build (where I retain full rights to the copyright of the posts ) if anyone can suggest a suitable location
|Thread: Warwickshire Show.|
I can't claim glasses or a beard but there can't be many single ladies wandering around the show on their own getting passionate about models, castings and tools. So I might be a little easier to spot when I go this Friday.
Please say hello it would be nice to put some faces to the names .
Edited By Jo on 16/10/2013 07:34:40
|Thread: John Stevenson's next project??|
I can't see it going any where near that cheap, it is a very restorable machine: I have restored one from a similar starting condition and even immaculate that was worth a lot less than that will be when finished.
|Thread: In 10 years time|
I will still be waiting for that last remaining casting that I purchased from a well known casting supplier around/from ...2000.
The older generation of Model Engineers be building more and more complex virtual model engines using their 4D CAD software and keep rubbing the noses of us youngsters in it when they rmind us that they still never break a tap.
|Thread: How accurate is your 3 jaw chuck?|
Jason: I thought you had Bison Chucks. If so they are made in Poland.
If I want accuracy I use a collet.
Edited By Jo on 17/09/2013 15:07:50
|Thread: Is it just me?|
I tend to disagree yes forums like this one do replace "scribe a line" but other forums do full blown articales and builds of both models and tools, with the advantage that you can interact with the author. And whlist there are commercial forums with horrible adverts all over the place (HMEM), there are still a great many private ones (MECH, MEM, MadModder) which don't. I think what is out of date is charging for acess to on line content.
|Thread: nuts hex bolts and other|
I don't use metric on my models only BA for the wide range and flexibility of thread diameters. EKP are good but they won't do stainless, as they claim it wears their die heads too much. (They have made a few 2BA hex heads but found that there is little market for them)
As model engines (normally) need very few bolts I normally make all my own, which has become even quicker since I purchased a die head. Making your own has the added advantage that you don't get fobbed off with metric sized hex heads.
I would like some BA nuts in stainless but only if they are the correct BA sizes.
|Thread: machine tools and stock metal|
Join a club: Most have annual sales and bereavement sales which are about the cheapest place to pick bits up from.
And don't miss out on the boxes of rubbish that most members would not touch with a barge pole. I have had 50p boxes that given time to sort through have had tens of pounds of quality tools hiding in the bottom. And most bits of rust that turn up are hiding a nice bit of BMS..again dirt cheap. Sadly members have woken up to the price of brass...
|Thread: Which collets to buy, never had my own before|
Don't forget you also need to consider if your lathe can meet the standard of accuracy that you are asking of your collets. I know that one of my lathes doesn't .
Forgot to mention: I use Clarkson Autolocks on my mill for cutter holding, the ERs are used for parallel shank tooling except FC3s which have their own chuck. What is interesting is that only 3 of my set of 21 ER collets have ever been used (the rest still have their plastic wrappers on).
I also find that as the ER collet chuck is shorter than a standard drill chuck sometimes I use them to hold a drill when head height is short. If I am even tighter on head room then I use Morse taper collet. And if you get a 2MT ER collet chuck you could use it in the tailstock of the lathe, or in the rotary table.
A number of reasons I prefer to use my 5C's in a lathe:
1, Yes they only operate over a very narrow window but then most of our drawings are to the nearest 32nd of an inch, 5C's as standard can be brought in imperial sizes (and metric) so they will fit the work perfectly . ER's operate over a wide range of sizes typically for the cheap ones 1mm that means that most of the time they hold on 8 points not all the way around. Only on one size will the curve on the inside of the collet match the work piece. So most of the time as Jason says a good three jaw will be as good.
2, If you look at Neils photo you will see that most of the ER collets have a chamfer on the inside of the nose, that limits the minimum depth you can hold on. I often hold small work on less than 1mm in a 5C without any worry.
3, My 5C's go up to 28mm, my ER32s only 20mm. But 5C's don’t limit you there as you can also get expanding collets and oversized soft ones that let you make special sized collets go up to 3". Also brass and nylon ones that are designed to let you do clever things with.
4, I have not got a face mounting ER collet chuck so if I used them on the lathe I would be limited in the available depth.
5, I have got a Stephenson’s spin indexer which takes the ER collets but most of my work is in imperial sizes so I might as well continue to use the 5C’s in the head to hold them. One day I might find a need to use the ERs in the spin indexer if so they are available.
6, The 5C collet chuck is very nice to use, faffing around with a spanner to tighten the ERs on a lathe without a headstock lock is a pain: I tried it once and didn’t bother again.
But If I am doing smaller stuff I will opt to use the Cowells which means that I will be using the DA200’s which start at 1.2 mm and go up to 10mm in 0.4mm steps, so in many ways the 5C’s are more accurate than even these ultra precision collets, but the Cowells is so nice to use when working to extremely small tolerances. If I want to go smaller then the watch maker’s turns come out and that is a totally different ball game.
I have ER32s they are great for holding cutters and tools on the mill, I use 5C's on the bigger lathes and DA200s on my Cowells. The choice all depends on the accuracy you are looking for. Spindle fitting or nose fitting will restrict the length of work they can hold.
Most people are not looking for the sort of accuracy that a precision collet set can provide. The cheap lower tolerance ERs meet most modelmaker's needs.
|Thread: Er collets ?|
For quality look for the value they quote as the TIR value: the smaller the better, 0.0002" is good. If they don't quote it. don't be surprised if it is not very good.
|Thread: Is this the trend in small locos?|
One of the reasons for going electric is that many owners of tracks don't appreciate you dropping hot ash all over the place and will only let electric run. Something to do with it melting their plastic sleepers and setting fire to their flower beds.
|Thread: Time for a new lathe|
If you think that a Colchester student will fall through the floor then, irrespective of the machine you buy, IMHO you should be looking to put some sheets of metal under the feet to spread the load.
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