Here is a list of all the postings Jo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Imperial fractions on drawings.|
But I think you will find when they went to the moon they did not use fractional measurements.
Today even the Americans are modernising as many of their bigger car manufacturers are moving over to use metric, so it can't be long now before they catch up with the rest of the world
|Thread: Easy Machine vice location|
Ron: if you have the vice mounted on its rotary base then it is very easy to set up:
Clamp both base and vice down, put your indicator in the centre of the vice jaws, take note of the measurement and move the mill bed out so the indicator is on the outer part of the vice jaw. unclamp the vice and rotate until the indicator reads the same as in the centre of the jaws. Move the bed so that the indicator moves to the other side of the vice jaws and you should find zero run out.
Bars mounted under a vice is only as good as the original fit of the bar into the bed/vice: don't trust the fit always always check by measuring. On my indexing head there was a 4 thou offset: it did not matter if using the head on its own but when used with the tailstock it caused a taper.
Edited By Jo on 07/04/2014 08:49:55
|Thread: Wire stripper repair or bin?|
That's Mazak = Bin
I am not sure what my original Hellaman ones are made of but all three are still going strong after a few decades of use, dropping from high heights etc.. .
|Thread: Myford Paint (Grey)|
Becareful with so called Myford grey paint. The tin I brought from Myford does not match the paint on my lathe.
|Thread: Harrison Mill|
G&M: Phone, phone, phone or don't expect a reply any time soon.
There are three 3 phase motors on a Harrison: The main spindle motor which is in the base, the very hard to get hold of power feed motor and the suds pump.
If you lay it on its back you will break the back cover as it only fibre glass and the base is not very wide so it will probably be unstable and end up leaning on the end of the table causing damage. The lifting point is in the over arm and there are tie down points in the base designed to help keep it upright when it is moved.
The manual is freely available on the internet for download.
|Thread: MEW 214|
It might become a very lonely place
|Thread: New Workshop!|
They are hopeful: Stateside we were looking at a couple of very low milage trucks complete with fully equiped workshops and generators on the back for that sort of price. We even looked into the shipping costs they were that reasonable
|Thread: Which do you prefer|
I always wonder if you were to ask our suppliers about their sales what type of models would come out on top. I can imaging that there are plenty of tools sales but I was thinking embrionic models = castings. Do Locomotive casting sales really outstrip all the other types of models being made to the extent that is written up in the publications? (There does not seem to be relatively much loco stuff on this forum)
As for the finished model: that is but the end of a journey and an opportunity to start making another. As you can tell I am not into playing choo choo trains .
|Thread: What did you do today? (2014)|
Clive you are not alone The honey from my bees is just the same natural and it seems to have totally cured my hayfever. But I must be honest it is only a small affair and I just keep the honey laden combs and then use a knife to break the caps off the cells as I need some. It is nice having the bees around and they have done wonders for my fruit and runner bean crops.
As for that "stuff" sold by supermarkets under the lable honey
|Thread: Harrison Mill|
Yes, Digger and Tim are fair and reasonable: They don't tart up the equipment they sell to try to make out it is better than it really is.
Best phone them: they can be very slow replying to Emails .
|Thread: Small tap wrench|
When you get that small it is worth thinking about making your own tap wrench. Nothing special just a knurled ring the hole through the centre the diameter of the tap, with a shoulder at the top big enough to fit a grubscrew in to tighten against the shaft of the tap (= ignore the square). The ring can be as small as 3/4" and the fact that you don't have much diameter will discourage over stressing the tap and ideally the holder should slip before the tap breaks.
You should also be looking to use something to make sure the tap stays square to the hole. A sprung loaded pointer in the jaws of a pillar drill is idea against the top of the tap: a bigger quality tap should have a female centre for doing this but the small ones have a male end so they need a female pointer, on cheaper taps you may need to use the tap holder to provide the shoulder for the pointer to work against.
I personal use a GHT UPT for tapping and would recommend one to everyone
|Thread: Harrison Mill|
G&M Tools hold Harrison Milling Machine spares.
|Thread: Download Motor Boys Model Engine Plan Book|
As many will know Ron is not well and it is intended legacy to make the Motor boys Plan book freely available on his site.
Out of respect the other members have not changed the site since his last posting. Our thoughts and best wishes are with Ron and his good lady, Ruthie, at this time.
Edited By Jo on 12/03/2014 19:09:52
|Thread: MEW 214|
So was the problem of the potential thiefs looking through the "light and airy " windows to see what they were about to break in to acquire... Why it is necessary to reinforce the bases of commercially available sheds (to take the weight of our machines). How to work out what minimum size shed would be needed to meet your modeling needs.. Why we insulate our sheds (for warmth and to prevent rust on our tools)......
Maybe if more of the page had been filled with useful advice for the budding workshop owner rather than photographs of different shaped commercially available wooden sheds : this is the sort of thing I term padding .
I started by buying a metalworkers bench vice, then had to make a suitable bench to mount it on and then brought some hand tools (files/hacksaw/hand drill). Then realised that if I wanted to turn metal/make holes I needed some machine tools, sold a motorcycle and brought a knackered old Myford : Total time 2 weeks, only 3 years later could afford to buy a pillar drill . 4 articles in and the poor starter hasn't made any swarf, no wonder Jim is looking for inspiration else where. Beginners need to feel that they can and are achieving something quickly as time goes on they will look for greater challenges.
Brian: I write most days a series of threads ( **LINK** , **LINK** ....) that are aimed at teaching newbies how to do things that at first may look difficult. I don't need to pad it with distractions/weasel words that might confuse them.
I just had a nose through MEW 214 and agree with all of coalburners points. You could have stretched that vice to two articles and it would have been a good length and provided value (as it is I think that it has done Hemmingway a disservice and will put people off making them).. As for the beginners guide: Beginners are best advised to not start there!
I am with you John: the sooner Neil stamps his mark on the magazine and gets rid of those long winded content free series of money printing articles and gets some authors who know what they are talking about, the sooner the mag will be turned around .
Something like that excellent article in ME about making nameplates would be good: Maybe the author would like to write in MEW?
|Thread: Sir William Armstrong problems|
Working through kit A: I have also found that the water jet parts have been cut udersized and the finish leaves a lot to be desired.
|Thread: Lathe chuck key material advice needed|
You must be really abusing your tools if it causes them to shatter.
The guy has a diddy little lathe chuck that has a 3/16" square key. A stubby tommy bar of maximum 1 1/2" total length should be more than adequate, preferably the tee of the key should also be soft so that it bends if someone forgets and gets over enthusiastic.
Also check the distance between the key hole and the lathe headstock: you want to be able to rotate both chuck keys without the Tee bar catching on the headstock.
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