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Member postings for Jo

Here is a list of all the postings Jo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Deckel SO Cutter Grinder
14/05/2014 19:57:17

I made a set of sleeves for my old one and used to sharpen the ends faces on cutters up to 20mm. No good for sharpening the sides. You can do two angles, it just takes two passes. You can also make/sharpen ball nose cutters. And of course the original engraver bits it was designed for.

I sold mine, decided to keep the Union cutter grinder much more versatile.

Jo

Thread: Tool Post Material
14/05/2014 07:56:24

On the Union lathe tools are ground by mounting them in the holder that fits to the universal head.

Have you thought how you are going to mount this tool post, to give you all the necessary angles, if you make one?

Jo

Thread: Colchester Student Index Ring
08/05/2014 10:12:46

Got it the springs/balls fit to the inner not the outer crook.

Bit of shim wrapped round the inner keeping the balls in place as you slid the outer on

Jo

Edited By Jo on 08/05/2014 10:14:03

08/05/2014 10:05:16
Posted by JOHN BRIDGE 1 on 08/05/2014 08:40:40:

Jo, I am not fully with your method, this collar will need to be removed to allow the outer ring to go fully home will it not be sandwitched between the two rings.

John

It will not be sandwiched between the two rings as the larger ring will have slid into place on the smaller ring leaving the tapered ring behind. If the larger ring is deeper than the shoulder on the smaller ring then make the tapered part wider than this so you can get hold of it to withdraw it.

Jo

08/05/2014 08:28:13

Machine yourself up a collar with taper that fits the inner part with an outside diameter that which the balls spring against. Put the springs and balls in their respective grooves, put the collar on the inner piece, push the outer piece over the taper, thus encouraging all three balls/springs to go into place.

Easy wink 2

Jo

Thread: What Size 4 Jaw Chuck
08/05/2014 08:16:29

I suggest you look out for the original Pratt and Bernard 4 jaw that was fitted to the Boxford. You should be able to easily pick one up complete with (or was it integral to?) the backplate from the regular second hand tool suppliers.

It will probably be a 6" and will cost a fraction of a modern chuck and be many times the quality.

I think I paid £50 for one from one of the dearer second hand suppliers two years ago so I had it available for my dividing head.

Jo

Edited By Jo on 08/05/2014 08:17:31

Thread: Stuart 'No.1' : a beginners tale..
02/05/2014 10:27:08

I agree with Neil, solder paste should be applied sparingly only where it is needed, once applied the two parts are put together and heated, until the solder runs = goes shiny and runs out at the edges.

Once you have heated the solder paste, or any soft solder, you loose the flux and like you observed the oxidisation on the surface of the solder will make it difficult to get a good joint. This can be remedied by applying flux (plumbers variety) or by introducing new flux cored soft solder.

Any heat sinks (that vice) will make the time to heat up the work longer and increase the likely hood of the flux boiling off before the solder mounts and may cause a brittle joint that will fail (normally a the most inopportune time like whilst you are machining). So a couple of small off cuts which have minimum surface area with the work is more than adequate. And, as a friend introduced me to the other day, a "lazy bird" (a three legged tripod with weight on one leg) that rest on the item to be soldered in more than adequate to prevent things going astray when the solder melts.

I am not sure why you did not do the boring of the bearing whilst you had them set up...

Jo

 

Edited By Jo on 02/05/2014 10:29:16

Thread: Tensile Strength - Brass or Bronze?
23/04/2014 10:55:00

Boiler fittings should always be made out of bronze.

Brass suffers from dezincification when it is in contact with the water in the boiler and will over time fail.

Jo

Thread: model newbie
23/04/2014 09:23:55

I suggest you start by building something like a simple stationary engine, say like one of Elmer's engines, which are based on bar stock and the drawings are free.

This will let you learn how to use your tools and you will have something to show in months, rather than being dissilusioned after many years when you have spent a lot of money and have little to show for it.

Jo

Thread: Toys for Boys
22/04/2014 21:52:30

Latest purchase 8 more Swiss Multifix tool holders for my Colchester, before that 10 smaller ones for the Prazimat. Why did I buy them? Then you haven't tried Multifix.

Next purchase is planned to be a Schaublin 70 lathe which will replace Cowells number 1 (Cowells no 2 is staying). The only real question is does the Schaublin or Cowells 2 move into the house with the Sixis? If it comes on a stand then I don't think the floorboards in the house will appreciate it. Why am I buying it? After I brought the Sixis I realised that Swiss machine tools are too desirable and once you have tried them nothing else will do. (Except a Hardinge but that is already on order wink 2)

Jo

 

 

Edited By Jo on 22/04/2014 21:57:37

Thread: Tensile Strength - Brass or Bronze?
22/04/2014 16:00:28

Pillion pegs don't need to be that strong: unless they are intended on protecting the HD when it is dropped.

2" A/F Brass is going to take more than your averagepilion rider's weight as they attempt to mount the bike but how big is the mounting thread?

Jo

Thread: What did you do today? (2014)
22/04/2014 15:55:59
Posted by Clive Hartland on 22/04/2014 15:28:51:

It is necessary to keep the rods dry and when using them heat them up by holding the rod in contact for a moment to get it hot! It will get rid of moisture.

Clive

I find leaving the rods for a few mins under the grill before trying to weld does wonders, even for mine which have been stored in a damp shed for 20 years. teeth 2

Jo

Thread: Universal pillar tool question
21/04/2014 17:48:42

Not if the casting is already threaded wink 2

Jo

21/04/2014 14:35:15

GHT's original design of this tool shows the base using the slotted clamp on both versions but most people fit it with the draw clamp. The older book "Building the UPT" says 1/4" whit or BSF....which thread depended on what you had in stock.

Jo

Thread: Model Engineer collection
18/04/2014 20:18:33

1950 that would be nice.. about the year my mother was born. I've got from 1964 wink 2.

But that would split them sad

Jo

Thread: Stuart 'No.1' : a beginners tale..
14/04/2014 20:31:17
Posted by NJH on 14/04/2014 14:42:01:

... I had an old friend who said that hexagon bar was not accurate enough and milled his own for nuts and bolts from round stock !

I agree, when I make my own nuts and bolts I always mill my hex out of round stock. Too often today you get metric size hex instead of BA. If you want the sizes then the Old BS standard will not only tell you the A/F, the acceptable thickness of the nuts and the angles of the tapers. And yes double tapers on nuts was one of the standard shapes, however much I don't like them sad.

If you are going to cheat I suggest you use a Cap head rather than slotted screw, Slots have a nasty habit of getting damaged.

 

Edit: If you are going to make your own hex use a dividing head/indexing head or index in the lathe. The last thing to use is those blocks.. it just takes one relocation to be wrong and you will have lopsided nuts crook and you wouldn't want to be accused of that.

Jo

Edited By Jo on 14/04/2014 20:37:14

14/04/2014 10:55:24

How thick is the sole plate where you are thinking of putting the "hidden studs"? Other Stuart No1s seem to not have their nuts over hanging. You could look to counterbore then add raised bosses for the nuts to sit on.

If you put the nuts one the inside make sure there is enough space for a box spanner to get round the nuts.

Jo

Thread: Proxxon 150/E
10/04/2014 17:27:18

Sadly only one of the Proxxon products I have purchased has not had electrical problems and friends who have also purchased them have had similar experiencessad.

So, however nice they might seem, I have stopped purchasing any more of their products.

Jo

Thread: Who has one of these tapping fixture tools ?
08/04/2014 12:05:41
Posted by Tomfilery on 08/04/2014 11:38:57:

It seems to me that views are split between "I can't manage without one" and "it's a waste of money". My own view is as per the latter!

Regards Tom

Tom: I have successfully tapped over 100 12BA threads in steel using the same tap by hand and that tap is still going strong. I too did not see the point of a UPT until someone let me use theirs, then I had to have one wink 2.

Jo

08/04/2014 10:23:17

I have a Universal Pillar Tool and it is brilliant. It has three different tap holders:

  • "The big one" which has is fitted with a drill chuck and a Tee bar which gives you something to get your hand on with really big taps to encourage them.
  • "The medium one" which has a knurled top and the end off an eclipse pin chuck. I was not at first convinced by this as the taps do not seem to be that secure but actually again the knurling is in the right proportion to the size tap you are likely to be using so less likely to cause breakages.
  • "The diddy one" I have not used this one but it is for taps that are best described as pins with raspy bits down the outside.

The UPT holds the Tap 100% square to the work and since I have been using it I have not broken a single tap. I would be a little concerned with the statement on one of those products: "This Tapping Fixture holds taps relatively square to the base so threads are cut straight every time".

You do not want to put the work in a vice for tapping smaller items hold it securely against the bed with your hand, it will let you have a better feel of what is happening.

Jo

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