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Member postings for Nicholas Farr

Here is a list of all the postings Nicholas Farr has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019
26/05/2019 14:36:34

Hi Neil, thanks for the info, bet they sound good. I love a bit lot of base. I'll bet they are a bit punchier than my pair of Disco cabs with 2 X 12" Goodmans twin Axiom at 40W DIN music power per unit, which I have in my music room (lounge) driven by a Tecnics SU-3050 amp.

Hi SOD, why stop at 11, and mine are connected with Maplins heavy speaker twin, no thrills attached wire and sound pretty fantastic with anything from Easy Listening to the Groundhogs Split album.

Regards Nick.

26/05/2019 08:34:46

Hi Neil, nice piece of kit. What size are the units in the combo and power rating?

Regards Nick.

25/05/2019 09:45:25

Hi, yesterday with the absent of a Mag-drill, I resorted to an old tech solution. Bit more fiddly to get lined up on the centre pop, but it worked very well.

old tech.jpg

Regards Nick.

Thread: Threading plastics
24/05/2019 11:03:58

Hi, basically, it is the same type of construction as the variable resistor/potentiometer/rheostat shown below, but only the slider and one end of the coil would be used. Therefore enamelled or insulated wire would be of no use.

potentiometer.jpg

I guess the idea of a threaded tube would give a consistent spacing while keeping each turn of the coil separated and only have the slider able to make contact with the outermost side of the winding.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 24/05/2019 11:12:45

Thread: Unknown tool
23/05/2019 10:50:44

Hi Grotto, you can always buy an MT2 to MT3 extension socket **LINK** but it will take up a little of space, so will depend on what length of bed you have.

Regards Nick.

Thread: Antique Steam Engine from Doorknob
22/05/2019 08:56:32

Hi Hopper, yes I was aware of the restraints that a lever would have, but thought that maybe a curved one might accommodate the problem. I hadn't thought of the push rod solution, but I think that your solution is more likely to work with a lever and of course the collars can be adjustable on the rod to get the timing correct. A mechanical version of a flip/flop.

Regards Nick

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 22/05/2019 09:01:05

22/05/2019 08:02:47

Hi SOD, no apology required, I wasn't having a dig at yourself, just pointing out that you had shown what I meant as I wasn't sure if Michael fully understood my idea and I think you made it clearer to everyone.

Regards Nick.

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019
22/05/2019 07:46:23

Hi, yesterday afternoon I made up a cross brace and welded it on the back end of my stand.

cross brace.jpg

Just need to drill a few holes in the top paint it and fit a draw unit.

Regards Nick.

Thread: Antique Steam Engine from Doorknob
21/05/2019 09:24:39

Hi, maybe a little Viakal or other limescale remover, using something like an eye dropper or a pipette may help loosing the valve/tap up.

The illustration that SOD has made with his red line, is the sort of idea I had in one of my earlier posts.

Regards Nick.

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019
21/05/2019 00:03:18

Hi, not so many clamps today, but this afternoon I had to press out a bit of distortion after welding the fat bars to my frame. I had anticipated this would have to be done, although they remain flat, the welds across the top of the SHS distorted them by about 0.5mm out of alinement to each other, but this was soon corrected by jacking each side, but by the same amount and at the same time.

adjustment.jpg

Once the adjustment was made, a very slight amount of upward pressure was then applied before and was held during welding on a pair of braces on each side. When all the welding had cooled, the pressure was released and the bars remained in alinement.

bracings.jpg

Regards Nick.

20/05/2019 10:24:02
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 19/05/2019 10:08:03:

You are Bob Clampett and I Claim My Five UK Pounds

Hi Neil, very interesting info about Bob Clampett. Yes I must admit my clamps look a bit looney, but It was the only way I could get those two 200 x 6mm flat bars totally flat and it was a bit of a joke getting enough tack welds on to hold them flat, it was a bit like working in a very dense forest but managed to get them welded on OK. No prize money available though.

Regards Nick.

19/05/2019 06:47:46

Hi, this was yesterday, not sure if I used enough clamps.

clamps 1.jpg

clamps 2.jpg

Regards Nick.

Thread: Antique Steam Engine from Doorknob
18/05/2019 06:52:11
Posted by Michael Hudson 6 on 17/05/2019 21:31:55:

Yeah I thought that too but I can’t see how anything connected in line with the notch wouldn’t interfere with the crank arm?

Hi, what about a rack and pinion arrangement instead of a lever. Is the plate with the two screws complete or has something broken off it perhaps? as the bottom edge doesn't look as straight and neat as the top.

Regards Nick.

17/05/2019 19:24:58

Hi Michael, looking at the photos again, that notch looks to be in line with the bush without anything in it. Perhaps there should be a rod down from the bush to a lever, that would be operating a spindle that goes in the hole and controls the valve gear and the notch would be for the rod to clear.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 17/05/2019 19:27:27

17/05/2019 18:23:51

Hi Michael, maybe there is an adjusting screw for something in the hole. The notch could just be an alinement mark, or possibly for a C spanner if that section is screwed in.

Regards Nick.

Thread: Which thread for T nuts
17/05/2019 08:38:54
Posted by Ian P on 13/05/2019 16:13:25:
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 13/05/2019 15:54:08:
Posted by Ian P on 13/05/2019 14:58:47:

I have never quite understood the logic of the various methods of preventing a bolt or stud touching the bottom of the slot. Allegedly it to prevent the slot ears being broken off, as I see it the same damage would be the same whether the nut was being pushed from below or pulled upwards from above.

Two reasons:

The main risk if the thread bottoms out without the object clamping and you don't realise you might keep tightening trying to sget some grip and jack the nut up to break the slot.

For heavy clamping ideally the object being clamped pushes down to the t-slot so it is squeezed rather than just pulled up. When applying upwards-only force you need to be careful of over-tightening especially if shock loads can be expected.

If someone tightens a bolt/nut/stud with enough force to break off the slot lugs then I would say they were not using a force commensurate with the job in hand. One has to have some mechanical understanding and sympathy (or use a torque wrench all the time).

Squeezing the slot projections does give by far the strongest fastening but it is not always an option. The machine vice I use has grooves down each side so can only be held down with clamp plates.

Ian P

Hi Ian P, it is the realisation that the bolt/stud is bottoming out that is the important point. You can get a situation where you are tightening the top nut on a stud and the stud turns in the T nut rather than the top nut turning on the stud. You may find that the clamping is still loose, so you give it a bit more and you may not feel the resistance that is capable to break cast iron slots. If this situation where the clamping is not being achieved, the stud will not yet be in full tension, but the bottom of the stud will be in compression, which can be greater than you realise.

Caution is better than a blunder.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 17/05/2019 08:46:57

Thread: Antique Steam Engine from Doorknob
17/05/2019 08:08:21
Posted by AdrianR on 16/05/2019 13:03:31:

On the cross head on the opposite side from the fly wheel is what looks like a mounting for another rod. It looks like it could be in line with the lever. Could there be a rod missing that operated the lever?

Where is the valve gear?

I would so love to take it apart.

Has anyone else noted the irony of a door knob engine on the same day as a post about door knob collars?

Hi, the lever looks to me, as if it has part of it broken off it, I guessing that being that this valve, (if that is what it is) and is attached to the boiler, is a safety valve and would have had a small weight hanging on the lever somewhere on the part that is maybe broken off.

Lovely looking engine, pity there isn't any drawings available, as I have a couple of these fancy doorknobs.

cimg2616 (1024x768).jpg

Regards Nick.

Thread: Replacing spoked balanced wheels with plain discs
15/05/2019 10:22:12

Hi, I guess you could drill a few blind holes in the back and then fill them with lead. Careful calculation would be prudent though to get the balance correct, I would think. Tich wheels have a relief cast into them on the front side, so you could mill a similar into the same.

Regards Nick.

Thread: Cutting steel to size
14/05/2019 00:35:10
Posted by andrew lyner on 13/05/2019 20:45:43:

but a grinder won’t do circles.

Hi Andrew, not strictly true. You can cut a disc with an angel grinder by starting with a square the size you want your disc (or slight bigger if you need to tidy up) mark the disc out on the square and then cut a straight line at 45 degrees on each corner so that it just touches the circle that you have marked. once you have the four corners cut, you can then cut two more straight lines each side of the corner cuts you have just cut and again just touching the circle you have marked after that you can do the same on each side of those you have just cut. You will come to a stage where you have a knobbly circle and the high points can then be flushed down to the circle line that you marked, using a flap disc. It's a bit long winded though and you need to have a good hand/eye coordination and keep the disc perpendicular to the metal, but it can be done. Of course, if you can get most of it cut by this method and can then trim the final diameter on the lathe all the better.

Regards Nick.

Thread: Which thread for T nuts
13/05/2019 10:34:24
Posted by John Haine on 13/05/2019 09:15:32:

It wasn't entirely clear from the OP, but I assume that the slots are 10mm wide - M10 is I think normally used as a thread description? An M10 stud would then need a 10mm clearance which would bring the crests uncomfortably close to the flanks of the nut. My Novamill has 10 mm wide tee slots, all the tee nuts that came with it and I have bought subsequently are M8. My VMB on the other hand has 12 mm wide slots, the standard 12 mm tee nuts are threaded M10.

Hi John, so would you call a standard nut for an M10 bolt/stud, M17. devil

Regards Nick.

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