Here is a list of all the postings Mark Rand has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Moving vice on mill table....|
Well worth using some Kasenit or equivalent on home made T-nuts if you want them to last. Even more so in smaller sizes.
|Thread: Milling machine identification - "Deutsche Waffen Und Munitionsfabriken"|
There's a £600 Chinese multi-process welder in the background...
Edit to add that it looks like the certificate error that my browser saw was a temporary hiccough.
It would appear that the controllers that work with solar+battery installations can also include the capacity of appropriate electric vehicles in their management capabilities. You can program them for desired time slots, so if you need the car at dark 'o' clock of the night it'll still have its charge in it.
I've been spending a little time trying to do the sums for solar panels and batteries. The Shed has got 33m^2 of almost flat roof that would be ideal for a solar installation. There's room outside it for battery banks and it's got a 4 core 16mm^2 cable going back to the house, even though I never got around to getting 3ph run in. Average power consumption is about 1kW.
Trouble is, that I can't make the sums add up. Having the money is no problem at all, but it appears that Keeping the money invested in funds generates a higher return. This is causing me great annoyance, because I'd really like to make use of that nice roof.
The shed is at **LINK** Note that their web site has an expired certificate. This isn't a hacker site. I'm vastly amused that I got that location though!
|Thread: Dykem Pens|
If the engineer's blue is spotting blue, then it's no good for layout work (it won't dry). If it's prussian blue mixed with shellac, then it's the right stuff. Alcohol or acetone works as a solvent.
A pen for it would be a struggle because it'll tend to dry out on the felt tip and need re-wetting to get it to work again.
A paint brush sealed into the lid of a bottle or jar, and kept submerged during storage works very well, as does a sheet of paper shop/kitchen towel rolled up tightly and dipped into the bottle (re-wet or use another next time).
|Thread: Listed on ebay as easily repaired|
Probably why it got dropped then, someone tripped over with it in the dark.
|Thread: ML7 lathe bed|
At 60 years old, she shouldl be narrow guide. In that case, the rear vertical is unused and can be used as a datum.
It'll never catch on. We'll always need the stables and the farriers.
In a way, it's a good thing that those who practice model engineering tend towards the old and decrepit, because many of the posts on this thread seem to think that progress is totally impossible.
I'm 63, when I was a kid, on average only one in four households had a motor car. if one wanted to drive from one end or side of the country to the other, it was quite probable that one would be travelling on the Fosse Way, Watling Street or Ermine Street etc. for some or all of the trip.
Things move on. The world can't afford for us to keep burning fossil fuels at increasing rates as if there were no consequences to such actions.
If you can't accept the change, stay out of the way!
Edited By Mark Rand on 16/07/2021 11:23:10
|Thread: Powder coating quality of finish|
Re the corrosion:- Single coat powder coating is almost the worst process to use for long term corrosion protection if there is any chance of damage to the finish. Once there is a puncture in the coating that water can enter, rust will spread out from that point and lift the coating. As in, the Meriden Triumph spine tube motorcycle frames, which were powder coated very heavily and then had the frame number stamped on them.
Powder coating companies should offer to use a zinc primer layer for anything that is going to be outdoors or subject to damage. If they don't offer it up front, ask for it. My local coaters have been very good in that way.
Same weight as my Reynolds 531 Dawes bike in 1974, although that was a road bike and five speed.
|Thread: Chinese drip feed oilers|
The RDG and Amazon ones are almost guaranteed to be the same as the AliExpress ones, so will be the same or similar in performance and quality.
If you aren't happy with the possible risk, there's always the tried and trusted AdamsLube.
|Thread: Drill sharpening?|
I've got a second hand drill doctor that produced passable results for a while before it started producing zero and negative relief grinds. I've also got a Picador Fig 9 jig that can produce good results when set up precisely, which takes time. Both have the limitation that they only go up to 3/4". I'm not interested in offhand grinding.
What I have been doing it pottering about with the cad program to sort out what's needed for a double size Duplex drilling jig based on the 1951 ME articles. To be honest, it'd be simpler to just make the bits to twice the given dimensions, but it's also an excercise in learning Alibre.
|Thread: re-magnetising magnetic base|
I have a 3"x3"x4" magnetic V block, the Alnico magnet of which has lost most of its strength (the reason it was scrap at work). I bought five wickedly powerful NIB magnets and have plenty of aluminium and steel to make a new rotor for it.
I'm still short of the round-to-it that is neccessary for the repair job.
|Thread: Split cotters|
Friction is a function of force, not area. A larger area won't make any difference.
Edited By Mark Rand on 03/07/2021 20:01:46
|Thread: Which grease?|
You don't say what the lathe is, but the comment about Mazak nuts points towards a Myford. If that's the case, wind the cross slide and top slide out most of the way, then use the spout of an oil can to lubricate the screws from below.
|Thread: ‘Right to Repair’|
Providing parts retailers can get the OEM parts from the manufacturer, there should be no problems. 30 years ago I ordered washing machine spares from the shop the machine came from because they had an account. Now I go online to buy spares.
|Thread: How Elgin made Jewels for Chronometers|
Post deleted because it was more thread drift about poisons and stuff from a sexagenarian.
Edited By Mark Rand on 24/06/2021 16:28:59
I apologise, you are quite right. I don't know why I come across as an opinionated bottom (Unless I am one!). I should have remembered that Schoolfriend Keith Ayres's dad, who was a watch repairer, used benzene to clean watches in the mid '70s, Even to the extent that wiseguy me told him that it was poisonous!
Benzine, not benzene. Different product entirely
|Thread: Cutting an exact diameter using a carbide tip.|
It might be that he's got a lathe like my Hardinge that is calibrated in diameter rather than depth of cut.
The optimum depth of cut of a CCMT06040X insert is just under 6mm/.25" otherwise you're paying for a lot of insert that you aren't using...
Edit:- deleted inappropriate comment .
Edited By Mark Rand on 12/06/2021 23:00:27
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