Here is a list of all the postings Mark Rand has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: ML7 feed screw wear|
As well as the linked thread, the nuts are a 'consumable' item. They were originally Mazac/Zamac/zinc alloy and wore in preference to the feed screws. They are an easy, cheap replacement and worth doing before you replace the screws themselves, but the cost of the complete screw+nut assembly is cheaper than the original Myford Beeston parts were.. The Myford/RDG web site has them listed.
|Thread: Eclipse magnetic table|
My original 8"x24" Eclipse mag chuck on my J&S 1400 had ferrite magnets, which won't lose their strength, rather than Alnico ones, which do. In the end, the problem was moot, since it didn't have any provision for re-lubrication and by the time I disassembled it the aluminium casting that the shaft/cam ran in had cracked and it resisted my attempts and machining a replacement and getting the resulting surfaces to be oil-tight with the original casting (only had the 10" shaper and the ML7 at the time). If there is an oil nipple/filler, I'd use it. If there isn't, I'd be very tempted to carefully drill into the end of the aluminium casting and tap for an oil nipple, then pump ISO 68 or 220 way oil in until it comes out copiously, without trying too hard to replace any oil seals. In the meantime, keep an eye on the auction site of your choice for sensibly priced fine-pole chucks. They're far more useful than the original Eclipse chucks.
|Thread: Difference in Myford Guard label colours|
There may be no significance other than Myford buying a new batch of transfers! My 1965 ML7 has a transfer with a yellow background.
PS:- welcome to the forum.
|Thread: Where's my Dykem blue gone - there's no need to read this|
Don't know about the Dykem, but the Stewarts Micrometer Blue will be in the zip-lock bag with the wiping rags and the brayers if that's any help.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
A 63 tooth gear for metric/imperial conversion gives an error of only 0.0125% if used in the correct direction (63*2.54=160.02). So it's not all that approximate.
|Thread: Jacobs Gear Hobber|
That speed gives about 100 feet per minute for steel, which is the accepted cutting speed for HSS cutters on mild steel blanks.
|Thread: Myford colours|
Much the same as Mike says:-
I had an ML7 belt cover matched with a Dulux machine in a DIY barn (B&Q). The resulting shade was nothing like the original sample, other than being grey. It was used to paint a stand that I'd bought in a slightly 'foxed' condition, that needed a fair bit of welding.
I've got a tin of Myford grey (made by Trimite) that I bought from the stores at Myford's Beeston works but, as yet, I haven't opened it so I don't know how good a match it would have been for my 1967 lathe.
I suspect that not only does the paint change over the years, but that the original paint colour may have drifted with time as well.
If the lathe has been completely stripped, then just use whatever colour takes your fancy.'Dove grey' is a shade to look for that's close. By far the most important part is the high-build primer or filler that goes on and gets sanded flat before the top coats. Without that, the castings look as rough as castings!
Edited By Mark Rand on 10/04/2019 23:00:37
|Thread: 2 pack, enamel...paint advice please!|
I used 2-pack acrylic to paint the Hardinge HLV after rebuilding it. I used a hooded disposable Tyvec overall, nitrile gloves and a Dräger isocyanate rated mask during mixing and painting. I was religious about this, after not using the mask when mixing the first batch, before spraying. Tight chest and asthma-like symptoms ensued.
It gets quite a lot harder after a couple of weeks, even though it's hard to the touch after half an hour. This it worth remembering if you are in a hurry to get swarf all over the painted parts.
If you are aiming at a 'mirror finish', get a rattle can of matt black paint and just give a spritz of it over the panel before sanding or buffing. This shows you any low spots on the surface as you sand down the high spots. Visible at the far left of the first picture.
You can use the original colours. or not...
|Thread: Stiff Quill Travel on Myford VMC Milling-machine|
Might not apply to the VMC, but I have found with my Beaver milling machine that even oil on the quill can make it very sticky. Spotlessly clean and dry works very well.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Spent the day nailing up a bit of plasterboard to finish a built in cupboard location and then stripping wallpaper for the rest of the day. Desperately waiting for the delivery of some 6-32x1/8" grub screws from Emkay so I can retreat back to the safety of the shed...
|Thread: Hardinge lathe on fleabay|
The 'new' rack doesn't look all that new...
The cateract style lathes are interesting historically, but not an HLV or HLV-H
|Thread: Windows Update (Again)|
You are comparing an old/replaced system with a new/replacement system. If the new did not show advantages over the old, it would not have become the replacement. That is not an operating system choice, it's development over time.
There are two reasons that there are so many complaints about Windows:-
Having spent 20 years as a system administrator and still having a Windows domain, 5 Windows clients, 7 Linux client/servers and 5 Android clients in the household, I see no problems with Windows that I wouldn't expect with any other OS. I don't use any Macintosh hosts because I have no need for their specific abilities/limitations.
Edited By Mark Rand on 16/03/2019 23:34:07
|Thread: Dore Westbury Mill|
Even though I had a set of Dore-Westbury castings and drawings before I got my Beaver milling machine, I would say that nowadays one would be better off getting something like the Seig 2 or 3 machines from the likes of Arceuro. Similar price, but more capacity, but still bench mountable if that is a requirement.
|Thread: Jones and Shipman 540 Dripping|
he probably meant 'remove the blocks that the piston rods attach to the table with at each end'. Once they're unbolted from the table, the table is just sitting there under its own weight.
|Thread: All things Beaver Mill|
Don't know about removal, other than removing the nut from the top of the drawbar and taking it out downwards. The reason is almost certainly that the splined part Beaver spindle isn't really big enough for a 5/8" drawbar. So it's probably 1/2" (same as the NMTB30 spindles) with a larger extension at the lower end where there's more meat on the spindle,
Edited By Mark Rand on 11/03/2019 21:54:04
|Thread: Myford Lathe on Ebay|
I'm not quite sure why anyone bids on ebay without using a sniping program. It doesn't serve any useful purpose .
|Thread: Bench Grinder|
These are the same grinders that Arc sell. Be aware that the plastic light shade assemblies on top of the guards are extremely flimsy. Mine are on the list of things to re-manufacture out of aluminium after they both broke in the first week.
I got the 8" one, mostly for sharpening TIG tungstens.
|Thread: Workshop - indoors or outdoors|
Wood work and dry stock storage in the cellar. Metal work in the shed.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
What controller are you using Joseph? I'm sure you have mentioned that in the past, but I can't remember which family it was!
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