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Member postings for Mark Rand

Here is a list of all the postings Mark Rand has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Straight edge for checking the slide ways on my mill's knee
26/10/2020 21:16:36


Edited By Mark Rand on 26/10/2020 21:17:47

Thread: Learning CAD with Alibre Atom3D
15/10/2020 00:01:38

For those who have support, Version 22 is now available .

Thread: FC3 'disposable' cutters in ER Collet?
10/10/2020 22:44:40

One cheat you can use with an ER collet system is the one I use when holding Rotabroach (3/4" Weldon) cutters in a 19mm ER32 collet. because the Rotabroach cutters' shanks aren't long enough to be fully engaged in the collet, I've made a 3/4" top hat that sits behind the cutter's shank and presents a 3/4" diameter to the bottom of the collet and a smaller diameter between there and the cutter's shank.

This allows the collet to close parallel and grip the cutters well even though they aren't long enough. This might work well when trying to get the last bit of length out of an FC3 cutter.

Thread: Scrap Metal Fire
05/10/2020 22:25:28

I guess at the end of it, they can just ship the remains to Port Talbot to be turned back into steel.

Thread: Inverter or converter for AEW Vicroy milling machine
05/10/2020 22:15:58

Just for the avoidance of confusion:-

  1. Static converter:- generates a three phase supply from single phase by the use of capacitors to effect a phase shift on the generated phase. Needs adjustment of the capacitance for different loads.
  2. Rotary converter:- generates a three phase supply from single phase by the use of capacitors and a rotating electrical machine to provide the generated phase. Usually does not need adjustment to cope with different loads.
  3. inverter:- generates a three phase supply by rectifying the input supply to DC and then producing three phases electronically. Does not need adjustment. Can need a filter to stop noise from the supplied motors and interference with radios.

1 and 2 often have a transformer included to get 415V output from the 240V input. 3, by default produces 240V output from 240V input, but one manufacturer modify inverters to add a voltage doubler circuit, so they can produce 415V three phase from 240V single phase.

Rotary inverter:-?????

Thread: Interference
22/09/2020 23:44:00
Posted by Harry Wilkes on 22/09/2020 21:38:08:

Some time back I had a microwave that when on blew my WiFi away, it was a brand name and talking to a friend who designed induction heating equipment he said microwave were as leaky as a cullender he told me jus to prove a point to take up up the garden which I did it was not so bad but still interfered


I'm surprised that domestic microwave ovens don't cause more issues with domestic WiFi installations. Given that the leakage from an 800W 2.4GHz heating device might well overwhelm the output from a 20mW 2.4GHz WiFi transmitter.

We had a construction Site on the Isle of Grain, in Kent, that I'd installed both the wired and wireless networking in. The folk complained that every now and then, the WiFi to their laptops would drop out for a little while... When the laptop is set to prefer the 5GHz frequency band (usually better) and a ship goes past with it's (5GHz) radar belting out a few KW, the WiFi access points would shut down to avoid interfering with the ship's radar...

Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2020
19/09/2020 22:33:57

I've been doing sod all inside the shed for the last fortnight. SWMBO decided that she was fed up with the way that the shed looked from the house. She got a paint by numbers kit off the Interweb and sent me to the Dulux Decorators Centre with samples of 22 colours to be scanned and mixed into 250ml sample pots. She doesn't do either colours or ladders all that well and I don't do art at all. But this is what we ended up with:-




I've still got to transfer bits of colour from what I painted on the wall onto the horizontal gutter drainpipe. Apparently I'll be doing that first thing tomorrow...

Edited By Mark Rand on 19/09/2020 22:40:40

Thread: All things Beaver Mill
15/09/2020 17:48:11

They are oil nipples, not grease nipples.


If grease has been used on the ways, remove the table and the knee and clean the oilways out with oil!

Edited By Mark Rand on 15/09/2020 17:48:24

12/09/2020 22:13:43

Certainly re-oil it or send it out for a rebuild as soon as possible. The 24"x8" that was with my grinder when I got it from work was quite stiff. I didn't think too much of it untill it became less stiff and stopped working, The stress from operating the cam to move tha magnet assembly against the dried and corroded top and bottom plates had caused the aluminium casting to fracture...

I now have a newer (second hand) fine poled chuck which, to be honest, is far better than the coarse poled Eclipse one was.

Thread: Steel stock for newbie ???
10/09/2020 23:38:34

EN1A machines easily, but the lead (Macready's do a tellurium doped version with similar benefits) makes it rust if you even look at it cross-eyed. It is also VERY soft.

Worth bearing in mind if you are making anything that won't be in a protected environment.

EN8 is 0.4% carbon steel and a bit tougher. Can be hardened fairly easily and isn't quite britle as silver steel when not annealed. Also not as hard. Good for wearing parts as opposed to tools. Much like EN3 in the annealed condition, machines like treacle unless you can use high speeds.

EN16 and EN24 can be very useful if you are making gears, nuts/bolts, IC engine cams etc. but by that time you'll have a better idea of what you need.

If you are planning for the long haul, check on the prices for longer lengths of stock. It''s upsetting to find that you could have bought a 3 metre length of bar from a supplier for twice the price that you just paid for a foot of the same from a different supplier.

Thread: Split collet steel recommendation
08/09/2020 21:03:08

The trick with a lot of the alloy steels, stainless, manganese bearing etc. is to use a coarse hacksaw blade, don't cut at more than about one stroke per second (even that is about 100 feet/second!) and lean on the blade fairly hard. That way, there's less chance of work hardening and you compensate for the fact that the steel's a bit harder to start with.

14tpi hacksaw blades should be present in every workshop!!!

Thread: All things Beaver Mill
03/09/2020 15:54:25

Haven't got a Mk2, but most mills have the return spring in a housing right beside the quill downfeed handle.

Usual method, if you need more tension is to wind the quill down till the pinion is off the end of the rack, supporting its weight as you do so (after removing the depth stops/covers etc. that will prevent the quill from going that far), then give the handle a bit more rotation to wind the spring up some more. Then push the quill back up so its rack engages the pinion, reassemble and bob's your uncle.

The fun starts when the clock spring decides that it isn't going to play and either breaks at the end of becomes unhooked from the inner and outer retaining screws. Then you have to take the cover off and hook it back together...

27/08/2020 10:22:43


26/08/2020 11:12:23

There must be some sort of plague of Beaver head work going around. I've got mine apart again so I can get the dimensions right to replace the gear shifting fork and slipper blocks on the back gear with an 80x100x10mm bearing, carrier and appropriate shifting fork.

When I originally rebuilt the machine, the shifting fork was worn through at the ends and the slipper blocks were almost worn away. I weld repaired the fork, cleaned up the groove on the pulley and made new slipper blocks out of expensive phosphor bronze.

In the relatively small amount of use it's had since then (compared with a production shop), the slipper blocks are wearing again. So the plan is to use the ball bearing in place of slipper blocks.

It's odd how many improvements there were between the Mk1 and the Mk2 (same on the Hardinge lathes)!

Thread: Change to the Code of Conduct
26/08/2020 11:01:11

It is Neil's ball. We play by his rules!

Thread: All things Beaver Mill
24/08/2020 17:13:43

There was nothing between the bearing inner races of the driven pulley originally. A fitted spacer is probably an excelent idea to allow one to have a controlled pre-load while not needing surgical precision on the shifting spanner during tightening!

If the chattering noise occurs when there is no load, and no loose drawbar, then the pulley shaft and gear shaft probably arent lined up.

On the top aluminium cover there should be four cap head screws pulling the bearing carrier towards the cover and four allen grub screws pushing it away from the cover. You need to adjust these so that the dogs on the pulley shaft line up with the dogs on the gear shaft. The easiest way I've found is to start with all the screws loose, then gently nip up the grub screws until you get contact. Then gently nip up the capheead screws to take some straing. After that, with the mill running (and you probably standing on the table!) tweak the alignment by loosening/tightening adjacent caphead and grub screws to get the quietest running.

The dogs on mine are tapered, but I don't know if that was by design or has just happened over the last 60 odd years.The two sets of dogs do seem to match together without any play (unlike the spindle splines)

It should have a spindle lock, but they never designed one in to the Mk1... Simple way around this is a lightweight spanner on the drawbar nut (aluminium ratchet socket wrench in my case) and a sharp rap with a bit of bar or a 1 lb hammer.

In the tightening direction, one or more sharp tugs on the wrench handle usually seems to do the job. Lower speed belt settings make the technique more effective, which is good, since you nromally want a tighter grip on larger cutters.

Thread: Computer Disaster! Help needed!
23/08/2020 15:40:57

With a Dell, you get to the bios by pressing F2 when starting. keep tapping it as soon as you've turned the power on, so it gets read as soon as the keyboard is enabled.

Thread: Split collet steel recommendation
21/08/2020 21:18:34

Any steel will be pretty much identical in 'springyness' and recovery back to original diameter for those sorts of movement and diameters.

Without hardening most steels are fairly similar although the 'free machining' steels seem to have more of a resemblance to warm butter if you are unfortunate enough to drop a finished part...

If you want a longer wearing/more robust collet without having to harden them, you could look for EN16T or EN24T. The T stands for the pre-heat treatment condition and ends up about 30-34hRC. Also machines better than the annealed versions, being less grabby.

Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs!

Thread: All things Beaver Mill
20/08/2020 21:51:20

Didn't get around to taking photos when making it, so I'll have to mock it up. laugh

I do have the advantage of having a slotting head and a rotary table for the cutting of the splines.

Has your's got noticable rotational play? Mine had about 9°, which is enough to be a real problem on heavy cuts...

Thread: Who trains these ideots?
18/08/2020 22:52:13

I'm on my second Sandero (first one was T-boned by a lady on a roundabout, who hadn't noticed my son indicating and turning right).

I don't have a problem with the service schedule when the car is still in warrantee. Why should I?

I think that they are brilliant cars and (to paraphrase Simon in the garage). New, they're a Renault with £10,000 in the glovebox.

If we eventually wear this one out, it'll probably get replaced with a Logan...

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