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Member postings for Mark Rand

Here is a list of all the postings Mark Rand has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What did you do Today 2018
14/12/2018 00:22:12
Posted by mark costello 1 on 13/12/2018 21:57:49:

If You are getting negative rake with the Drill Doctor, just slightly loosen the collet and turn the drill bit slightly clockwise (I think) and tighten it up and try again. If it's worse then it goes the other way, I don't have My notes here with Me at the moment.

It should be anticlockwise for more relief, assuming the DD instructions about moving the collet clockwise for more relief are correct. Results were still inconsistent. I just got sick of the thing's problems, even though I've used if for five years.

The Picador drill grinding fixture, mounted on the surface grinder really is an order of magnitude faster and more repeatable. I had been looking at Graham Meek's modifications, but most of them aren't needed for the Picador version. I will, probably, build a larger version to cope with MT drills up to 1" diameter.

Thread: It's not rocket science
12/12/2018 19:48:13

I was quite surprised at the gay abandon with which they were allowing bits of insulation, gold leaf, etc. to fly off into the void. I was under the impression that it was considered to be a bad thing to add to the orbital debris that is zooming around the world.

Thread: Cost of deliveries
12/12/2018 19:42:01
Posted by An Other on 12/12/2018 18:40:07:

Personally, I will not post a profile or any other information about myself unless I so choose on any website - I always use a false name, and would never provide an address or contact number. The reason I do not have a profile on this site is because of past abuse, and secondly because of the increasing need for internet security. If I was so inclined, you have already posted sufficient information in your own profile to make it relatively easy for a hacker to start stealing your online identity - your name, and a locality, with some indication of your occupation. I won't provide details for obvious reasons, but it wouldn't be difficult to get an address. and then many other details are easily found. I suggest a little paranoia might provide better protection.

Its easy to say 'rubbish - no-one would do that' I say wait until it happens to you.

If it concerns you so much that you do have personal information on a particular person, you can always send them a PM, and see what that gets you.

I trust you will also never cause annoyance by posting about 'here' while not defining where 'here' is. Which was the point of my post.

As for security my mail server, which is in the computer cupboard in my workshop, rejects several thousand spam emails per day. That is part of running a mail server and five dns domains. Likewise, the post man knows where I live as do many suppliers I have dealt with over the years. If I ever make a claim on my car insurance, lots of lawyers seem to think that I need their help to get rich. Gee whiz.

Thread: A question about lock (jam) nuts
12/12/2018 00:57:14

Turn the left hand screw down to form a flange to retain the sprocket. Cut a keyseat in the screw and a keyway in the sprocket. Then there only needs to be a single nut to retain the sprocket.The nut can be drilled to be  tightened with a pin spanner, so it can be made flush or recessed.

Edited By Mark Rand on 12/12/2018 00:59:04

Thread: Cost of deliveries
12/12/2018 00:10:11
Posted by Hopper on 11/12/2018 22:48:06:But seems like since private enterprise began taking over from the Post Office in the West and bringing new "efficiency through competition", prices have gone ever upwards.

That seems to be the down side of allowing private enterprises (and the more astute nationalized organisations of other countries) to skim off the profitable parts of the mandate, while leaving the difficult bits to the original state-run organisation.

Thread: What did you do Today 2018
11/12/2018 23:58:24

After drilling and tapping the required holes, I did a trial assembly of the 7 5/8" raising block I'm making for the milling machine.

Advantages:-

  1. It gives me enough headroom to do two of the jobs I've got lined up for the mill.
  2. It allows the full travel of the knee. (what's the point of a table that can be raised to the same height as the spindle nose?)

Disadvantages:-

  1. I'm going to need duckboards or steps to change tools and speeds, since the mill is already as much as I'm comfortable reaching up to without the raising block.
  2. I don't know yet what, if any, effect there will be on rigidity. That'll be found out when I start to use it.
  3. As shown in the first picture, The raising block could have been even taller. There's another 5" of quill travel available!

 

 

During the drilling of the holes, I hit a couple of hard spots that needed the drill to be resharpened. I stuck the drill in the Drill Doctor and ended up with variable (usually negative) relief several times. I've been having problems with the Drill Doctor 750X, even when following the instructions religiously, for some time. So the Drill Doctor has been struck off for gross incompetence and a Picador drill grinding jig was mounted on the surface grinder. Perfect results in a fraction of the time surprise. I had. previously, had reasonable results from the DD, but it gradually became unreliable even after replacing some of the wear parts at significant expense. Its now going to the local tip!

 

The lugs on the side of the raising blocks are to take some arms/brackets to hold the milling vices and the rotary table and its chuck out of the way, but where I don't have to lift them onto the table when I need to change them.

Edited By Mark Rand on 12/12/2018 00:01:59

Thread: If you bought this lathe what would you do?
11/12/2018 22:52:30

That lathe might be ok as a worn out, second hand fixer-upper project. As a new machine, it's not fit for purpose. Send it back.

You could possibly drive up to Syston and have a look at ArcEurotrade's SC4 as an alternative.

Thread: Cost of deliveries
11/12/2018 22:04:21

It's very difficult to work out where people are referring to when they don't have a location in their (non-existent) profiles and don't mention a location in their posts.

Thread: Is this Morse shank removable?
11/12/2018 01:37:50

Just out of paranoia, have you taken the rotary bit off the turret to ensure that there isn't a screw holding the body onto the shank? Unlikely, but possible.

Thread: 3 phase vs single phase
09/12/2018 23:27:15
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 09/12/2018 22:30:02:

Most of us don't know the power factor of our motors or understand what effect PF might have on our electricity bills. I guess an old-fashioned electromagnetic disk meter would read higher than it should, but a new electronic meter might be smart enough to compensate.

Nope! They measure power, not current. if you aren't a very large customer, your metering will measure the energy that you use and will not be materially affected by the power factor of your loads.

 

Edited to delete rambling on about excess load charges etc.

Edited By Mark Rand on 09/12/2018 23:29:07

09/12/2018 22:25:38
Posted by Robert Atkinson 2 on 09/12/2018 20:11:31:

Most domestic meters read apparent power, not real power so even a low power load with poor powerfactor will cause it to over-read. This is a particular issue if you leave the motoer running but disengaged when not running.

Umm:- a domestic supply meter will be within about 2.5% worst case at any load from 6A up to 60A and any power factor from -.75 to +.75 . If it isn't it can be challenged. 'smart meters' tend to be far better.

The only supply meters that don't read true power are additional ones used on large industrial contracts where there is a power factor charge.

09/12/2018 18:40:43

Measuring the current of an AC motor is completely meaningless as a way to infer the power consumption. You need to measure the power, which is Voltage * current * Cos(power factor). the little plug in wat meters will do this. An Ammeter won't.

Pet peeve of mine, since I spent 7 1/2 years measuring the electrical output of power station generators during performance tests all around the world.

Thread: Arc Euro ER16 runout
08/12/2018 23:43:02

Two things:-

  1. You should be able to adjust your backplate to zero runout. Verify that the runout is zero,or at least identical, at both the front and the rear of the taper, that will ensure that you haven't got the collet holder mounted at an angle (fixing an error here would take some maths and patience).
  2. Are you certain that you inserted the collet into the nut correctly. Sorry if it's teaching grandmother to suck eggs, but the collet needs to be hooked into the off-centre washer in the nut before mounting in the holder. This is the number one cause of mis-alignment in ER collets.

The nuts are interchangeable smiley.

Thread: ML7 questions
08/12/2018 23:32:19

A centre heigh gauge was about the second thing I ever made after I bought my own ML7 (lived 225 miles away from dad's one). Just a bit of 3/4" brass bar with the diameter turned down to 1/2" in the middle and a flange left at the top, with it's base at the correct height for the tool. Before long, I turned some shims (mounted on the face plate) to the right thickness for most of my tools, so I knew that a 12mm insert tool with the shim marked 'M' would be at the right height, the parting tool wanted shim 'L' etc..

Nowadays, I use a Multifix tool post in the HLV lathe and just line tools up with a headstock or tailstock centre, depending on which is more convenient, when setting the tool holders. Very occasionally, I'll adjust a newly mounted tool slightly after facing to the centre to get exactly the right height.

Thread: 3 phase vs single phase
08/12/2018 23:02:23

Sean, an important question that no one has asked yet:- What lathe is it?

1/2hp is suitable for a Myford sized lathe, but 3/4 is better for even an ML7 (I speak from experience). A lathe that's sized for a 2hp motor is not going to be happy with larger work or more aggressive cuts if hobbled by a 1/2hp motor.

In terms of power consumption, the losses of a 2hp single phase motor will be greater than those of a 1/2hp single phase motor or 3ph motor + VFD, but the difference is likely to be no more than 25-50W. I.e.. 3/5 of 5/8 of F-all, as one of my colleagues used to say.

The suggestions of getting a plug in power meter are your best bet. They are cheap these days (especially when Aldi or Lidl have got them on sale, but also from a number of online sellers), and can give you a good idea of just what in the house is eating the power.

Before you do anything else though, have you got an immersion heater that someone's turned on? smile o

Thread: Sealer for bare steel.
08/12/2018 22:28:32

I would vastly prefer to see them in their original colours. If bare metal is preferred and the surface finish has been cleaned up to the point that it's acceptable, then get the parts nickel plated (not chrome). That will look good and will last longer than a varnish.

Thread: 3 phase vs single phase
08/12/2018 14:39:10
Posted by Phil Whitley on 08/12/2018 13:31:20:

Read this Sean!

https://www.mumsnet.com/Talk/products/214863-tumble-dryer-condenser-or-vented

I do not make the claim for the crapness of condenser dryers lightly, it is based on the experience as a repairer of vastly extended drying times and large electricity bills. some very expensive ones may have a slight edge over ducted when they are new and working correctly, but that doesnt last for long as the condensing system spray tends to block up with limescale, fluff or grit from the water supply, and of course the only way you know it is not working efficiently, or indeed at all, is by the drying time getting longer and longer.

What water supply? who buys a condenser tumble dryer without a heat pump these days? Ditto, don't people clean the filters?

Thread: Interests other than Model Engineering
07/12/2018 02:59:22

Hope to get to model engineering one day, spent the last 15 years building a workshop and rebuilding machine tools.

In between:-

  1. Cooking and the shopping that goes with it.. Her indoors does the washing up, plus I get decent food, so it's a fair trade.
  2. Gardening, when limited to sunny weather and/or the greenhouse.
  3. Beer, wine, vintage port. See 1).
  4. Not sure if I enjoy, but have been doing it for the last 30 years and old habits die hard even after redundancy/retirement:- Administering, using and programming on computers.
Thread: Master surface plate for scraping in a cast plate?
07/12/2018 00:44:28
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 06/12/2018 20:26:24:
Posted by Pete Rimmer on 06/12/2018 19:38:17:

Granite plates shouldn't sag if they are supported on their airy points.

That's not correct. When supported at the Airy points a beam will sag, but the sag is minimised while keeping the ends parallel (zero angular deflection) , which is important for a length reference. For a surface plate where a length measurement isn't important the support points for minimum overall sag are slightly closer together than Airy points.

Andrew

To amplify Andrew's points, two things:-

1) The working face of a granite surface plate or table that is supported at the same locations (wherever they are) that it was last lapped on will not 'sag' other than when it has a load placed on it or where the surface is worn.

2) The implication, that others have raised, that a granite plate might take a permanent set due to improper storage/mounting etc. is bollocks.

3) The correct support points for minimum deviation from flat are the Bessel points, not the Airy points. The latter give parallel ends, which are important in end-to-end length gauges. Both are defined for two dimensional beams, not for three dimensional objects.

OK. Three things. laugh

Thread: Cooling oil unit for saw or lathe
05/12/2018 15:16:37

Just a small warning:- Be very sure that you have a filter and settlement tank before returning any steel contaminated coolant back into the tank. The little washing machine pumps have a permanent magnet rotor that is exposed to the liquid. If there are iron filings in the liquid they will soon stick to the rotor and stop it from rotating.

Discovered this when washing my overalls after getting cast iron dust in the turn-ups crying.

The rotors can be removed and wiped clean, but its a hassle if you have to drain the washing machine and turn it over to get at them...

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