Here is a list of all the postings Vic has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Running 3 Phase Motor on Single Phase Supply|
The Brooke Crompton motor on my Omnimill had instructions inside the wiring box on how to rewire it from Star to Delta. The mill always started fine without an additional start capacitor except once in a while in the winter. When this happened I just used to give it a nudge and let it warm up for a couple of minutes and then it would be fine.
I've sent you a PM Richard.
Have you got a link to a £12 VFD?
Sounds good Richard. There was a very good website many years ago that had all the details but it sadly disappeared. I knew the information would be very useful to me so I wrote up my own "idiot guide" and filled it away.
Richard, it's 70 uf (micro farad) per KW so 1/2hp would need 26 uf. I used this formula to run a three phase milling machine on single phase for several years without any problems. I got my capacitor from RS Components at the time for about £12 I believe.
|Thread: Choosing a bandsaw|
Can't help but just seen this:
|Thread: Fake Mitutoyo Digital Callipers on eBay|
I won't be buying any more £9.99 specials. The Mitutoyo's will stay indoors as usual but I'll be getting something like the iGaging calipers for the workshop.
|Thread: Rotary Laser centre finder|
This is just one of many I've seen on eBay.
Some of the ones on eBay can be "focussed" according to the description, I wonder how sharp the dot is with these?
I'm not sure it's legal to machine a fairy is it Ian?
Anyone got a link to a suitable laser?
|Thread: mt3 or r8|
I first started using collets on my old Elliott mill because I couldn't afford a Clarkson autolock chuck at the time. In all honesty Z height was never an issue for milling on the Elliott and is still not an issue on my smaller VMC. The only time it does come into play is for drilling so I've got a good stock of stub drills now. It's always surprised me how many folks compromise the rigidity of their machines by moving the quill instead of the knee.
Good point about the use of the two machines Neil, the R8 could be well be the more used machine unless they've both been fitted with chucks.
|Thread: Well done Tuffsaws!|
Ian at Tuffsaws is a top bloke and always provides a good service. He has a justifiably good reputation for supplying bandsaw blades to the woodworking community in this country. It really is surprising how much better his blades are compared to the ones supplied with many machines.
|Thread: mt3 or r8|
Just try and get the one in the best condition ...
I've happily been using my MT3 mill since I bought it. Tapping the collets out isn't an issue provided you are capable of using a copper hammer. Having said that I made a self extracting drawbar just just out of interest so no hammer needed these days. I also like to use a ER32 collet chuck quite a bit so spindle taper is immaterial in this case. What is useful is being able to use MT drills straight in the quill. MT drills are often available quite cheaply at the shows. Maybe it's me but MT stuff seemed to be cheaper than R8 when I was setting up my workshop. Compatibility with my Lathe is an added bonus.
|Thread: Lathe rusting|
I tried WD40 on my old mill and when I checked it a week later it was covered in rust, never again. For storage I use Lanolin but it's getting difficult to buy lately.
|Thread: Glass Cutting?|
I visited a place that made a variety of glass products many years ago. One of them in particular were glass discs about 6mm thick and about 40-45mm dia. The glass sheet was first cut into squares and then had the corners knibbled off with pliers. Fifteen or twenty of these rough billets were then stuck together with beeswax and mounted in a conventional Lathe, a Boxford I believe. The whole column of glass was then turned down to size and then the wax was melted to separate them. Sadly I don't know what tool was used to turn them though! Properly supported on both sides this leads me to think you may be able to turn them down with the correct tool?
|Thread: HEALTH AND SAFETY WARNING|
What are you making with them?
|Thread: Belt and Disc Sander|
Of course, these are the dogs if you can afford one. You can even get diamond belts for them I believe. Sold for sharpening woodworking tools but just as capable for sharpening our stuff. Idiot proof angle adjustment is a bonus.
I use mine for tool sharpening.
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