Here is a list of all the postings Vic has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Soba\Vertex HV4 Rotary Table|
Looks like the Vertex 4" and 6" both have only three slots. This does of course suit three jaw chuck mounting though.
That's a nice looking plate John, where did you get it?
I don't have either but Vertex are supposed to be quite good whilst I have heard one nor two negative comments about the SOBA. Having said that I have a SOBA milling vice which is very nice. I'll be getting the Vertex HV4 when I need one though!
|Thread: Machine vice - Vertex/Arc Euro Trade/Gloster?|
Yes Ian, the price is the only downside! Wish I still had my Abwood ...
These are very nice, pretty much a copy of the old Abwood vice.
|Thread: T nuts|
I couldn't find any tee nuts the right size for my first mill so I made my own by filing down the heads of some carriage bolts to temporarily mount the vice. Where there's a will ...
|Thread: Indexes or Indices ?|
I've not looked at the MEW index from that site for quite a while but the last time I looked at it was using Open Office on a Mac so it's nothing to do with the operating system, or at least it wasn't!
|Thread: casting copper hammer head ?|
No, he's from the future and prices have gone up a bit!
|Thread: I'm not renewing my subscription|
I do understand copyright control etc but digital content readers are just plain rubbish compared to a half decent PDF file in my opinion.
|Thread: Workshop Lighting|
I think it depends on the fitting. I'm sure someone who knows the details will be along in a minute.
|Thread: Tangential lathe tool holder|
Sharpening jig. The small black one comes with the commercial tool. I made the alloy one as being a bit bigger I find it easier to handle and it's slotted to the table on my belt sander for consistency.
As requested, a few more pics.
Only because it ends up thinner at the end where it's milled at 12°. It can be the same thickness all the way through though if you like. I started with quite a large lump of scrap steel so I needed to thin it a bit for the toolpost. The reason for the deep step was to keep the toolbit clear of swarf, it also help to see what's happening at the cutting edge. Really though it's just a matter of making it to fit your Lathe. Within reason though bigger is better if it improves rigidity. If I get a minute I'll take some more pictures at different angles if it helps. It's not quite as clean now though as it's had a lot of use, it's my most used tool!
Edited By Vic on 29/08/2014 21:36:22
|Thread: Tauco drill|
|Thread: How do I tell stainless steel from silver steel ?|
I use Gun Blue for some things so a quick wipe on them would tell them apart. I'm told you can blue stainless steel but the stuff I got from the shop won't touch it!
|Thread: Tangential lathe tool holder|
I don't have a drawing as I milled it as I went along! As for the steel, I have no idea. It was made from bench (gym) machine weights that were going for scrap. Definitely steel though of some description. Sorry I can't be of more help.
|Thread: Workshop Electrics|
Yes John, very helpful thank you. And the rest of you guys, I appreciate it. I used to work with a qualified electrician and although I let him fit a nice new HD consumer unit in our old house I didn't much like a lot of the work he did for our employer. Most of it was just untidy due to not using the right tools or rushing to get the job done. I only plan to do the first fix and then get a sparks to finish off. I've seen an awful lot of really untidy work carried out by "qualified" tradesmen over the years, including electricians and plumbers. I'd like this job done to a decent standard even if I'm only running the conduit and fitting the boxes.
Thanks Mike, T&E is most "uncooperative" as you put it at the best of times, I can't stand the stuff. As it's only one run in the conduit it's doable I think but I take your point. I'll see if I can source some single cable, might save my knuckles and my temper!
I'd like to put the ring main (and lighting circuit) in the workshop inside 20mm PVC conduit for safety (and neatness!) and I know it should be done with single 2.5mm cables. The problem is I'll only need about 25M max of each of the three cables and I've only seen them sold in 100M reels. I don't fancy having 225M of "spare" cable sitting on the shelf so is there any technical reason I can't use T&E for the job? Actually if I include the lighting circuit cable as well it's going to be an awful lot of conduit cable sitting around doing nothing after the jobs done. I should add I'd prefer to use conduit cable so if anyone knows where I can get 25M reels without paying silly money let me know!
|Thread: Workshop Heating|
Thanks guys, sounds like a small oil filled radiator set on low may be the way to go. The new workshop is made from kiln dried timber but I've paid extra to have a factory applied (transparent blue/grey) finish on it. Each piece of timber is fully treated so it's better than painting it afterwards. If it looks as nice as expected I'll just reapply another coat of something transparent every now and then.
The old garage workshop had an ordinary up and over door so was quite leaky air and water wise!
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