Here is a list of all the postings Bowber has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Thread Milling|
Well done, it's great watching the machine make such a nice thread isn't it.
The first time I used it was to correct a mistake when I accidentally used an M6 twin start tap I didn't even know I had so I had to create a brass bolt to fit.
A few years ago I got 2 single point thread mills from America via Ebay for sensible money, I've not looked to see if they are still available though.
They work very well and I use the threading wizard in Mach3, my first one was a twin start M6 brass bolt and it fit perfectly, the great thing about thread milling is you can mess with the mess with the sizing to get a nice fit if it only mating with the one thread.
|Thread: Adjusting gibbs on an Easimill CNC|
I've just moved my Denford Easimill into my new workshop this weekend and to fit it through the door I've had to remove the table and saddle from the knee. So obviously I've given it all a good clean before reassembly but I'm wondering what the spec was for clearance on the gibbs?
I've adjusted them up to the pint of feeling tight when slid by hand and then backed them off slightly but I've still got about 2 thou of play when I put a DTI on the front of the table about 4" from the centre, most of this is in the saddle (Y axis) I can go slightly tighter but I may get slight binding at the back, the middle and front section has probably been the most used area of the slides so I'd expect this.
The table seems fine and I tend to move my vice and clamping position around to spread the wear but there isn't much room front to back to do this.
I realise there is always a trade off with old machines but it'd be nice to get it within spec if possible, having said that it's now tighter than it was before disassembly.
|Thread: WIN10 on new Laptop.|
Windows 8 also allows a local account, I've had most windows OS since 98, missed out ME and Vista, and never had a microsoft account yet.
Windows 10 is ok, it's just a bit different to previous versions but the OS is fine. Yes you need to go into the security settings and turn off most of the junk and there is also a keylogger and voice recorder running that is meant to make your use of the Microsoft services more personal (we would call it spying) Just take a bit of time to get used to it and you'll soon be up to speed.
I have my Win 10 laptop running my CNC router via a CNCdrive UC100 usb controller and it runs very well, the old windows XP box before it was very tired.
|Bit late now but you'd have been better using a local account.|
Also worth looking up how to set you network connection to metered, that way you have a little control over the updates.
|Thread: 3D design to CNC mill design flow|
A little more general info, apologies if I cover something you already know
For most CNC jobs you may find 2.5D is the best fit, this is just the tool moving on one layer at a time and a lot of CNC machining is just that with 2D CAD drawings of the profiles being used.
Items like the fan blade would need to be drawn in 3D CAD but I'm not sure continuous 4th axis machining would be essential and stepped 4th axis may work fine, however you may get smoother machining from continuous 4th axis.
You can hand code for some 2.5D jobs but importing a 2D CAD drawing of the profiles into a CAM program is usually faster, programs like Fusion 360 has both CAD and CAM in the same program (you also mainly work in 3D) so no import is needed and they also have the advantage of updating the CAM if you alter the part
3D CNC gets more complicated and you generally always need a CAM program to create the toolpath. Most CAM in the hobby range will output these toolpaths as very small linear moves so a large file could have millions of lines of code. Some of the commercial CAM are now taking an allowable error and using that to create a lot of small curves.
Some CAM programs to look into:
Sheetcam - 2.5D CAM, aimed at Hobby use mainly
These are programs I've used and there are a lot of other programs to try but out of these I've mainly use sheetcam with some use of Meshcam for a few indexed 3D items, I now use Vectric Vcarve for most of my 2.5D cutting and I'm getting used to Fusion 360 and have used its output on my son's 3D printer.
I'm only a hobby user so my experience is limited to machining my own hobby parts so I'm open to correction but I hope I've provided a bit more information on the process.
|Thread: Warco WM290V|
I've had a 280V for a few years and once it was set up I can make some nice parts on it, far better than on my old worn Harrison and it runs at the right speed for tipped tooling. The Harrison felt like it was going to take off if I ran it over 800rpm!
|Thread: Noisy WM250V Lathe|
Mines making that squeal they make when the bearings are worn.
The inverter is held in with a couple of screws and with the mess of wires I think I might leave it a bit longer, it's cold in the shed now so:
The cooling fan in my 280 control panel has started making a noise now, it's a computer type fan that blows/sucks air through the inverter.
As some one else noted it's a right rats nest inside the control box and the fan looks like it needs the inverter to be removed so you can get at the screws holding it in.
It's the fan on the back of the drive motor.
The cooling fan has it's own motor to keep the drive motor cool while running slowly, mine does it sometimes after a heavy cut causes vibration. Probably caused by cheap bearings with too much clearance.
|Thread: Is CNC cheating|
I haven't been on here for a while due to work and lack of time but the first thing I see when I come on here is the age old argument about is this or that cheating. Seems to me that the OP is having a good laugh at the moment.
My opinion for what it's worth is that CNC is not cheating.
Let me explain with an example.
My dad has no formal training in engineering at all, he just bought a lathe years ago to help make motorcycle bits, he's a bit of a perfectionist and does take advise where he can get it so over the years (and a few machine upgrades) he's made 100's of parts for motorcycles and bicycles.
If I was to present him with a CNC lathe and mill he's be stuffed and there would be broken cutters and crashed tools flying along with the language, so he would have to start learning about speeds and feeds and correct tool usage, chip clearance etc, so in other words he would have to relearn a skill he thinks he already has plus how to draw the parts on a computer and then calculate the speeds and feeds, pick the correct cutter, and account for swarf clearance and waste material dropout issues in closed pockets. Once you've clicked the go button you have to have everything right.
So after completing the machining of a part with the INTENDED results he would have gained new skills and learned a lot more about the theory behind machining materials, that is NOT cheating.
|Thread: Mach 3 64 Bit computer|
Sorry, bit slow in answering.
PC is Windows 7 pro 64bit, laptop is windows 10 64bit
My mill is setup with homing switches in series, zero plate, Estop and the normal stepper pinouts. I don't use limit switches but no reason they wouldn't work.
Mill works smoothly and doesn't seem to have any problems and the Estop and homing switches work fine.
Originally I left the motor tuning as was but I've since retuned it.
All very confusing but I didn't bother, I just used a new 64 bit computer and a UC100 usb controller.
There is a UK reseller https://www.cnc4you.co.uk/Motion-Control/UC100-USB-Motion-Controller
Seems expensive but in the long run much better and you can use any pc you want after that, I have my laptop setup with Mach 3 as well as the dedicated pc (laptop is a backup)
|Thread: Another band saw blade snapped – Have I got the tension wrong.|
We used to make our own blades at work and the main failure was incorrect annealing of the weld, after that it was badly ground welds jamming.
|Thread: Is it worth adding a power feed|
Power feeds are something that while not needed is very useful and gives a much better finish, the same with DRO's, they are not needed but once you have them and learn how to use them you miss them on a machine that doesn't have them.
|Thread: WM250 inverter drive conversion.|
The current inverter versions of these lathes use a separate cooling fan that comes on with the power to the lathe.
My 280V uses a 1.5kw motor and only uses 1 belt, I'm not sure how long the belt will last as it's only a small section but it seems to handle large diameter work without slip so far.
|Thread: Wacker Plate/Rammer Compactor/Vibratory Plate EC-04 Engine for Go-Kart|
The normal way is to remove the govoner and use the throttle like a normal engine would so you have to rig a direct cable or rod connection to the throttle butterfly. You can usually leave most of the parts connected and add a couple of closing springs.
You'll need a parallel shaft but you can use the taper shafts at a push, and look on ebay for centrifugal clutches, there are a few, then belt or chain drive to the wheels.
Just to add a bit of background, I race lawnmowers and we do a genuine 45+ off road with no suspension so we're doing this sort of thing all the time.
|Thread: Packaging stupidity!|
I think it's more the amount of packaging and yet the bottle is on an outside edge with no benefit from the packaging
|Thread: How necessary is 3D?|
£D has a lot of uses and you generally get less mistakes in your drawings created from a 3D object.
In industry it's also good to add the ISO view into the drawings so the manufacturer has a good idea of how the part is meant to look.
However for hobby use it's not as relevant unless your using 3 axis CNC with raster machining (each cut is a slice from the model) and 2D is usually more than adequate.
|Thread: Anyone want to guess the colour code?|
We used to add coloured tape to the bars, however there was always some numpty who would cut off the end with the colour code!
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.