Here is a list of all the postings Dave Wootton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Highlighting Index Lines|
I used something called clockmakers dial wax I got from ebay, not cheap but it leaves a very clear mark in the dial and has lasted really well, seems unaffected by oil or coolant.
I used boot polish and black wax crayon before that, it works but doesn't last very long.
|Thread: Next Project|
I have a friend building one of the M J engineering designs, the 2" scale fowler A7, and the quality of the castings is really good, makes me quite envious. The Fowler may be a bit big, but the Gold Medal Burrel is a lovely design, and I'm sure the castings would be of the same quality, definitely a factor to be taken into consideration.
|Thread: Camden Miniature Steam Services|
I agree with Harry, great range of books but the service is very variable, sometimes excellent, other times nothing arrives for ages. I understand that sometimes things go out of stock, but a courtesy email would be helpful.
|Thread: Evaluating & Correcting Wear in an ML7|
Thanks for that, I just re-read the messages and I think there is some confusion crept in, it's not Dave (me) that wanted the dates but the OP who is Dr-GMJN. Fortunately my lathe doesn't yet need any major work, but I have filed all your articles away in case I live long enough to wear it out!
Great articles by the way, well thought out and presented.
The needle roller conversion is for the crosslide feedscrew and only applies to ML7 and ML7R , it is on the projects section of the ARC Eurotrade website, they also sell the bearings required very cheaply.
I think there have been roller bearing conversions published for the Super 7 & ML7R headstocks, but I've never looked into it as I'm quite happy with mine as it is.
I'm not at home to check but I seem to remember the articles on Myfords by Peter Barker were around October 2019 to March 2020, well worth seeking out.
KWIL I had a look but I can't find a PM from you.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 23/09/2020 10:50:17
|Thread: Rob Roy Build/ Rally|
I'm not sure of the differences in the ashpan, wether it's to improve steaming or to keep ash out of the axleboxes, my engine steams ok, but the smokebox and ashpan do need clearing out if I run it for long periods, that might be because I used small anthracite which is very ashy, but does burn well. It does the same in my Simplex which will run for a couple of hours and then clog up, but me bums gone numb by then anyway!
Life's too short not to use laser cut parts, I'm building Don Youngs Aspinall 0-6-0 and ordered everything that Malcolm at Model Engineers Laser can supply, saves so much time.
Hopefully someone on the forum will know the reason for the ashpan re-design.
|Thread: Evaluating & Correcting Wear in an ML7|
There have been some excellent articles in recent issues of Model Engineers Workshop on this very subject written by Peter Barker they would probably cover all your needs for checking and improving your lathe without the need for a regrind.
Resettable dials for cross and topslide are still available from Myford, or there are drawings in Geo Thomas's book, well worth buying anyway, if you feel like making them. I'm afraid I was lazy and bought the Myford ones for my ML7R and very nice they are too.
There is also a free drawing of a needle roller thrust conversion on the Arc website, not done it yet but been told it's worthwhile.
I think Peter Barker might be Hopper on this very forum.
hope this is useful
Edited By Dave Wootton on 22/09/2020 15:17:47
|Thread: Rob Roy Build/ Rally|
Chassis looking really good, lovely job on the coupling and connecting rods. i was chatting with another Rob Roy builder the other day and he mentioned that there is an improved ashpan design by David Machin, not seen it or come across it, but it might be worth a look before you reach that stage. David Machin is a very clever engineer so I imagine it would be a worthwhile modification.
Keep up the good work, a pleasure to see it.
|Thread: Change gear alternative material|
I've got a Bantam 2000 and some sizes of changewheel are hard to get and expensive, i've used delrin gears with no problems. not sure about Students, but Bantams have splined gears, I bought some very cheap pattern bantam gears from RDG and machined them away to use as carriers for the Delrin gears, bolted on with four allen bolts and two dowel pins..
i couldn't find the gear for doing 26 tpi i think it was 56T, the thread I use most and it's the one thread you need a different gear for, always the way.
I might do some of the sizes that I have in steel gears as they run noticeably quieter, the 127/100 combination rings terribly, drives me mad.
I got the Delrin gears from ebay and HPC
|Thread: Silver steel axles|
Just had a look at john B's website mentioned above, the section on testing needle rollers with silver steel is on page 11 of the helen Longish write up. Worth spending some time on john's site he has some good practical ideas for loco building, I must admit I've pinched loads of them!
If your engine is to the late Kelvin Moodie's design it should be ok, I remember him running his radial tank and 0-4-2 at rallies some years ago and they always performed very well, I did get to drive the radial at one time, a very good engine.
One thing I can say with complete confidence is don't use oilite bushes in axleboxes unless you can be 100% sure to keep ash out, the rear axleboxes of my simplex have picked up the ash and used it to lap the rear axle (EN8) the wear is horrendous, although it has done a lot of running. The others are ok but they are not next to the ashpan, I would never use oilites again on a loco. The engine still goes ok though!
Edited By Dave Wootton on 17/08/2020 17:08:00
Have a look at John Baguleys website under the Helen Longish section, he experimented with needle roller axles and there is a full write up there, he incorporated them in his Curly bowl winning loco with sucess. I do remember a loco built to the Martin Evans Springbok design that had canon axleboxes with silver steel axles running straight in needle rollers, ran hard for years without any problems, sadly the builder died a few yearsago and the loco was sold, no idea where it is now.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 17/08/2020 13:02:04
|Thread: A novel 'non-cuttable' material.|
That sounds clever and interesting and it lead to me thinking about something I was told as an apprentice in a large production factory and have always wondered if it was true or not. We used a large amount of replaceable tipped tooling, all the used tips had to be placed in a bin outside the stores. Asking what happened to the old tips I was told they went to safe manufacturers too be welded into the doors and walls to prevent drilling into them, the loose tips catching the drill stopping it dead.
Was this true or just one of the wind ups that our older colleages were so fond of inflicting on us gullible innocents? Sorry if I seem to have hijacked the thread but this set me thinking that if it were true about the tool tips this would be an interesting development.
I think my youthful gullibility level is dependent on the answers, I'm sure someone on this forum knows the answer.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 28/07/2020 06:37:30
|Thread: How Best to Sell a Clarkson Cutter Grinder & Accessories?|
If you want to sell as one lot it's perhaps worth thinking about an advert on the Lathes.co.uk website, Tony Griffiths will look at the pictures and catalogue everything there and compile an advert for you with a suggested valuation. There is obviously a charge, but when I had to help clear a friends workshop full of clockmaking tools and machinery it proved invaluable.
Those of us doing the clearing, all model engineers, were baffled by some of the attachments used by ornamental turners, tony identified them all and we raised a considerable amount for the widow. We got involved after a dealer offered an absolute paltry sum for the whole workshop, fortunately the family were astute enough to realise that it must be worth more than the few hundred pounds offered. In the end close to five thousand was raised.
One thing we did find that if emailing pictures to tony it's best to ring and draw attention to the fact, I gather he is rather busy and can miss them. no connection with his site but a very satisfied customer.
Sorry about all the editing! no coffee yet.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 26/07/2020 08:43:31
Edited By Dave Wootton on 26/07/2020 08:44:48
Edited By Dave Wootton on 26/07/2020 08:49:21
|Thread: Rob Roy Build/ Rally|
i didn't have to modify anything from the drawings, everything is as the original plans, and once the valve gear was set properly it ran very well. My difficulty came with the setting, altering one thing slightly seemed to alter something else, and i was going round in circles for ages getting nowhere. The book ( which I think is still available from Camden) just has some simple jigs for setting things up, once reassembled I couldn't believe how easy it was to set. once forward gear was set the reverse seemed to look after itself. The eccentrics for each cylinder are pinned together in the jig at the correct angles, and the eccentric rods held in another jig for rivetting to the eccentric straps, ensuring they are identical. I also think reading the booklet made me more careful in making sure everything was as correct to drawing as possible, the book is full of maths if you wanted to design or improve the gear, but I made no attempt to improve or change it and it worked fine.
I'm sure I raised the blastpipe slightly, a fellow club member helped me using two card gauges, following an article in Model Engineer by I think Harold Barton, probably sometime in the mid 1980's, i'm sure someone on the forum will remember better than I, one taper is to the chimney top, another to the petticoat pipe, but I can't remember the angles.
There is a nifty cover for the rear axle in Martin Evans Boxhill design that would keep the ash away, I think I saw it on Station road Steams archive pages on a part built chassis, there are a few the same on there so I assume it's on the drawings.
I intend to rebuild my loco at some time, the cab and bunker were severely damaged when it rolled off a traverser some years ago,I have pangs of guilt everytime I see it, I've built other loco's but R-R is definitely my favorite, you can lift it on your own!
looks like a lovely job Phil, much better than mine built years ago, now in need of a major overhaul and repaint, but it's been great fun running it and wearing it out!
I had great difficulty setting the Stevensons valve gear on mine, partly due to inexperience and a little bad advice, however I found the late Don Ashtons book on stevensons gear and using his simple design of jig for setting the eccentrics, and eccentric rod lengths all was well. I wasted months of trial and error before i got the book, I didn't do any redesigning just assembled it using the jigs and his clear instructions on valve setting. I'm sure as you've already fitted the eccentrics and quartered the wheels that the jig could be adapted to set the eccentrics in situ without having to remove the wheels.
Incorporating these into the engine as you build it will save time and heartache.Having said that there seem to be lots of Rob Roys built to the instructions that run very well. It may be that I'm particularly dim . at one point I got the chassis running reasonably backwards but poorly forwards, unfortunately you can't turn the boiler round as the firebox fouls the steam chests so i had to sort it out!
A guard over the rear axleboxes would be a very good idea as the rear ones on mine are very worn due to ash getting in the bearings. I also changed the height of the blastpipe slightly I can't remember the details but I used the taper gauge method and it did steam slightly better.
Keep up the good work!
|Thread: Myford Lubrication... yet again!|
Just found the Lautard book, It is specific to the Alemite model 500 grease gun, the basic idea is to remove the plunger assembly, blank off the non business end and make a better nozzle. I can't post the drawings online in case there are copyright issues.
PM me and I'll scan the relevant pages. I really wouldn't bother buying the book there's only a few pages on the oil gun, the rest is stuff that's been done to death online and in magazines. I bought it when I was working somewhere and we had lubrication issues with some large turret mills, couldn't get oil in. But I found the answer in MEW using Arc's oil system.
+1 for the Pressparts oil gun, mines a few years old now still works well. The Lautard book used to be available from Camden, I did have a copy once, from what I remember there was nothing in it that was an earth shattering revelation, I seem to remember the grease gun mod involved a new piston with O ring seals.
I'll have a good look for it today if I find it I'll put a post on, but for me the Pressparts gun works fine out of the box.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
Tonight I finally finished making the running boards for my 2 1/2" Crab, thought a bit of sheet metalwork would be light relief from making the fiddly valve gear . I forgot it was just as fiddly and took ages!
|Thread: Silver soldering old German silver castings|
Thanks Keith and Michael, I managed to get out in the workshop this morning and make a bush to silver solder in, I'm pleased to say it all went very well, I took Keith's advice and did not try to complete the job quickly, or heat too fiercely.
I used some thin wire silver solder I keep for steam fittings, It's not cadmium free but it does flow very nicely. I cleaned everything carefully and pickled it before I started and used standard easy flow flux. I did attempt a picture but it didn't really show anything up worth looking at, if I get close enough to show the joint it just gets blurry! Must get a decent camera!
One bonus is the nickel silver is about the same colour as silver solder so the crack repair is almost invisible.
Thanks again for your help.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 24/05/2020 13:35:35
Thank you Michael, that's very informative and quite readable too, interestingly they say that castings may contain lead or tin, but it seems that it is quite possible to silver solder cast even containing lead providing it's done quickly.
I have some thin easyflow wire I use for steam fittings ( the old cadmium stuff) I will have a go with that, I won't be able to do it until next week, but I will post a conclusion, even if it's just a picture of a metallic puddle!
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