Here is a list of all the postings Dave Wootton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: KNEW Piercing-Saw Frames|
Further to above post SWMBO tells me it was 2019, so that must be correct!
I bought one of these back from a trip to Canada for my then neighbour who was a silversmith, he asked me as they were unavailable in this country at the time and he has seen good reviews of them.
He was very enthusiastic about it and liked it a lot, however after a few months he went back to his old saw, when asked him about it he just said he preferred it, but couldn't explain why. Said it just felt right.
I suppose that's the thing with hand tools, sometimes they just feel right in the hand.
This was I think 2017 and the price equated to around the forty quid mark then.
|Thread: Galvanising small items|
I used Medway Galvanisers in Kent about 10 years ago for exactly the same process on a 2A, quite expensive compared to another quote I got at the time. Very pleased with it, It wasn't claggy like some I've seen and they didn't lose anything, I was asked for a complete list and photo's of all items before they quoted.
Sold the vehicle once finished but it still looks good to this day (actually better as it's toned down nicely) . they are a big industrial concern and I couldn't broker a cash deal! They must still be in business as I frequently see their truck around.
Turns out it was nearly 15 years, where does time go???
|Thread: Injectors of Peter Cauley|
I've got a copy of the drawings and instructions now thanks to Stew, will have a good look , I'll have a go at some when next I get bogged down on my loco.
Out of interest I was doing some googling today and found a short series of articles of tips on making injectors on the Maidstone Model engineering societies website, in their newsletters archive starting in spring 1975. They were written by Fred LaRoche who was a fellow club member some years ago, Fred made injectors on a semi commercial basis,using cast bodies, I've got a few of his and they work very well. All done on a ancient Little John lathe with a top speed of about 750 RPM!
Good luck with the injectors.
Speedy Builder 5 thank you for the above link, I hadn't seen that - very interesting, Stew has kindly been in touch, always good to see another approach to something.
I too would be interested in Peter Cauley's injector design information, as I'd like to have a go at making injectors. I did make some to Laurie Lawrences design years ago, but I'm afraid they didn't work very well untill the late Jim Ewins took them away and breathed life into them. Well three out of the six were saveable! I won't even mention the one I tried to the LBSC design, known as old reliable- you could rely on it never to work!
I'm also interested in a vertical injector, so any leads would be much appreciated.
I am aware of the injector book mentioned above.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 14/09/2021 16:30:19
|Thread: Lorch LAS Lathe|
I've got a new bearing for these sitting in my toolbox, I used to work where we had quite a few of these and I used to look after the maintenance of them, if you PM me I'll post it to you.
Quite easy to remove the spindle for belt change, but never dismantle the epicyclic back gear unless you have to, horrible fiddly job to put back together, our very upright foreman fitter used words I never knew he knew whilst grappling with one.
|Thread: How long does it take to make things?|
I found this a very interesting thread, partly as I used to work in an environment where everything was needed yesterday, and none of the requestors had any idea of how to make anything or how long it took! As I was about to embark on making some particularly horrible little bits, 12 off spring hangers for my 5" Aspinall loco tender, this was supposed to be light relief from the problems of my part built american pacific, which i'm currently bogged down on, I thought I would keep a rough tally on how long it took to make them. I actually made 14 to allow for a few mishaps, miraculously they all made it to adulthood. From unfolding the drawing to heaving a sigh of relief on their completion the total was 34 hours total workshop time, including finding tools and materials, making simple fixtures, setting up and thinking time.
The picture shows the drawing and a completed hanger, thinking how best to make them,finding the material, cutting to length, milling all surfaces to size and length ( in pairs) took 4 hours total. All the drilling was done in the machine vice using a stop using an edge finder to set and the mills DRO to co-ordinate.as can be seen from the picture they were made in pairs with a sacrificial piece in the centre to aid holding in the vice and on the fixture. All the drilling and milling was carried out relying on the DRO, the only marking out was the end of the slot which had to be filed.
The tooling used is shown in another of the pictures, the Geo Thomas rotary table with stops is so useful for much of this smaller work and all the radiusing was carried out using this. The other plate in the picture was used for milling the slot and the 5/32 internal radius each side of the hanger. A small ball ended mill was used to radius the lower boss. All the machining was done on the mill with just some hand filing on the slot ends and cleaning up the machining marks, fortunately these have to be painted so that hides a multitude of sins.
I was quite surprised at the total length of time to produce this little batch, much of the time was in setting up, and being 14 of them some of the operations had to be performed 28 times, In all an interesting but a little mind numbing excercise. I do remember a post on this site some years ago regarding the Aspinall tender, the gist of it was how do you keep your sanity while making the 12 spring hangers, I'd have to say i'm not sure if you do!
|Thread: George Thomas retractable slide for the myford.|
There are drawings and instructions in G.H.T's Model engineers workshop manual which is still in print and full of information and drawings for much else besides.
I think Hemingway do a kit for it.
There's an easier to make one in Graham Meek's book Projects for your workshop.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 17/06/2021 16:50:34
|Thread: Replacing a myford ml10 lathe chuck|
That explains it. Myford integral threaded chucks like you already have are available from the likes of Rotagrip and i believe Chronos list them too, these will fit straight on with no machining.
If you don't mind turning the register on a part machined backplate I can recommend the very reasonably priced ones from ARC , very pleased with a chuck I bought from them, they supply backplates too.
Choice is dependent on your budget but all the above companies offer a good fast courier delivery.
Further to my previous reply, just had a look in your album and saw the pictures of the chuck with apparently a jaw missing, is this correct? If this is the case as the chuck you have looks to be in fair condition, it's worth trying a wanted ad on this site and the Homeworkshop site. Rotagrip used to supply spare jaw sets but they were quite expensive, almost the price of a chuck.
Hope this helps
Edited By Dave Wootton on 14/06/2021 07:44:12
Your current chuck looks from the pictures to be an internally threaded chuck made specifically for the Myford 7and 10 lathes, so if you had to replace the chuck for a different backplate mounted type you would need to purchase a backplate from one of the suppliers. These are obtainable part machined with the spindle thread and register already done. If you look on the Lathes uk website there is a section on fitting chucks which explains very well.
Internally threaded chucks with integral backplates for Myfordsare available from places such as Rotagrip, who are a chuck specialists.
I would seek advice from the ML10 users on this forum before trying a 125mm chuck on your lathe, might be a bit big and heavy for the spindle and would increase the overhang from the bearings.
But first I would agree with Speedy builder5 that your existing chuck is of a good make and are robust, and wonder what the reason for replacing it is. Unless anything is obviously broken or strained (sometimes the scroll can be damaged by careless use) A good clean and lubricate can make a world of difference.
|Thread: Genuine or not?|
I bought some very similar possibly identical in an " antique" emporium in Lewes Sussex about four or five years ago for our old house which was of an age that they suited perfectly, these were sold as reproductions and were quite reasonably priced and decently made. Can't remember how much we paid, but they couldn't have been astronomically priced as I'm a cheapskate. They were made of painted or plated steel made to look like antique copper so not sure of the lasting qualities, the new owners of the house obviously didn't like them as they were soon replaced with ultra modern units that would have graced a starship better than an old cottage!.
There was a range of varying styles one a copy of what I think were GWR oil carriage interior lights.
SWMBO says she has seen them more recently in the antiques shop at the old Bexhill on sea station, so looks like they are widely available.
Sorry about edits- spelling!
Edited By Dave Wootton on 13/06/2021 09:29:01
Edited By Dave Wootton on 13/06/2021 09:31:04
Edited By Dave Wootton on 13/06/2021 09:31:37
|Thread: Myford 254 S|
I'm aware of that which is why I put the word or in the sentence to differentiate between D1-3 and the 3 stud method.
There were two types of chuck mounting on the 254's the D1-3 Camlock or a taper with three studs as used on many chinese lathes. The camlock has three square keyholes that operate cams to pull the chuck in and hold it, the other a flange with three holes,you will need to identify which type yours is. A bit of googling or posting a picture of your spindle nose would help.
D1-3 backplates and chucks are easily available, I have purchased from both Warco and Gloster tooling with complete satisfaction, not tried Chronos. But I had to send the backplates from another well known supplier back as the fit was appallling. I bought a 125mm 4 jaw s/c from ARC and am very pleased with it.
I seem to remember reading that the D1-3 backplates can be easily modified to fit the non camlock spindle by replacing the existing camlock pins by studs, but my memory often fails me!. I'm sure someone on the forum will know more about that type of mounting. If you PM me I can try to scan the page from the manual showing chuck fitting.
Just re-read the trail above after morning caffeine injection and had missed that the D1-3 backplate conversion has been covered already, so it's not only the memory thats failing then! But I did have a very late night yesterday!!
Edited By Dave Wootton on 12/06/2021 07:27:39
Edited By Dave Wootton on 12/06/2021 07:30:24
|Thread: New here, just bought myself a Myford ML10 :)!|
My old and much missed mate had an ML10, he turned out countless Stuart turner engines, a Rob Roy, Lion and a Pansy ( some jobs on this on an old Colchester I had) . Apart from a small drill press it was his only machine tool, he treasured the lathe and I never heard him complain about it. He was too busy using it!
So it may not have the convenience of some of the larger more expensive lathes but they are capable little machines, and like a lot of the smaller, cheaper machines that have been available over the years can turn out (sorry!) good work and provide much enjoyment.
Hope you have many happy hours with it.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 09/06/2021 06:09:34
|Thread: KENNIONS MODEL ENGINEERING SUPPLIES|
Can only fully agree with the above, use them often. Materials are always excellent as is the service. Their castings are very good too , clean with good machining allowance and machine nicely.
|Thread: Small drill honing jig|
Full details and drawings for his drill sharpening jig are included in D.A.G.Browns excellent book on making injectors, easily available.
The little credit card sized diamond pad detailed in the drawings is available from ARC.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 02/06/2021 16:46:07
|Thread: Boxford paint colour - but not blue or green!|
If you can't get a paint code car paint suppliers can match paints to a sample very closely, I got them to match and make up a synthetic enamel and they used a retarder in the mix so it could be brush painted, it lasted very well on a green Colchester ( this was before Paragon was available).
You need one of the older fashioned paint suppliers that are used to matching faded car paints, I believe the minimum is 1 litre. I did try Halfords colour match spray recently when I made a power feed for my mill, the result was laughable, and there are no refunds, despite the green paint being blue!
Edited By Dave Wootton on 31/05/2021 06:36:37
|Thread: Burnerd Chuck Jaws|
If its any help i can recommend the chucks sold by ARC, I bought a 4 Jaw s/c 125mm chuck and couldn't believe the accuracy over a range of diameters, I was so impressed I bought a 125mm 3 jaw initially for rougher work to save my nos P-B 3 jaw, but again the accuracy is most impressive. Only had them a couple of weeks so can't say its a long term test, not quite as smooth in operation as the P-B but seems well made and an absolute bargain at £50 for the 3 jaw. It cost more for the D1 backplate than the chuck!
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.