Here is a list of all the postings Dave Wootton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Replacing a myford ml10 lathe chuck|
That explains it. Myford integral threaded chucks like you already have are available from the likes of Rotagrip and i believe Chronos list them too, these will fit straight on with no machining.
If you don't mind turning the register on a part machined backplate I can recommend the very reasonably priced ones from ARC , very pleased with a chuck I bought from them, they supply backplates too.
Choice is dependent on your budget but all the above companies offer a good fast courier delivery.
Further to my previous reply, just had a look in your album and saw the pictures of the chuck with apparently a jaw missing, is this correct? If this is the case as the chuck you have looks to be in fair condition, it's worth trying a wanted ad on this site and the Homeworkshop site. Rotagrip used to supply spare jaw sets but they were quite expensive, almost the price of a chuck.
Hope this helps
Edited By Dave Wootton on 14/06/2021 07:44:12
Your current chuck looks from the pictures to be an internally threaded chuck made specifically for the Myford 7and 10 lathes, so if you had to replace the chuck for a different backplate mounted type you would need to purchase a backplate from one of the suppliers. These are obtainable part machined with the spindle thread and register already done. If you look on the Lathes uk website there is a section on fitting chucks which explains very well.
Internally threaded chucks with integral backplates for Myfordsare available from places such as Rotagrip, who are a chuck specialists.
I would seek advice from the ML10 users on this forum before trying a 125mm chuck on your lathe, might be a bit big and heavy for the spindle and would increase the overhang from the bearings.
But first I would agree with Speedy builder5 that your existing chuck is of a good make and are robust, and wonder what the reason for replacing it is. Unless anything is obviously broken or strained (sometimes the scroll can be damaged by careless use) A good clean and lubricate can make a world of difference.
|Thread: Genuine or not?|
I bought some very similar possibly identical in an " antique" emporium in Lewes Sussex about four or five years ago for our old house which was of an age that they suited perfectly, these were sold as reproductions and were quite reasonably priced and decently made. Can't remember how much we paid, but they couldn't have been astronomically priced as I'm a cheapskate. They were made of painted or plated steel made to look like antique copper so not sure of the lasting qualities, the new owners of the house obviously didn't like them as they were soon replaced with ultra modern units that would have graced a starship better than an old cottage!.
There was a range of varying styles one a copy of what I think were GWR oil carriage interior lights.
SWMBO says she has seen them more recently in the antiques shop at the old Bexhill on sea station, so looks like they are widely available.
Sorry about edits- spelling!
Edited By Dave Wootton on 13/06/2021 09:29:01
Edited By Dave Wootton on 13/06/2021 09:31:04
Edited By Dave Wootton on 13/06/2021 09:31:37
|Thread: Myford 254 S|
I'm aware of that which is why I put the word or in the sentence to differentiate between D1-3 and the 3 stud method.
There were two types of chuck mounting on the 254's the D1-3 Camlock or a taper with three studs as used on many chinese lathes. The camlock has three square keyholes that operate cams to pull the chuck in and hold it, the other a flange with three holes,you will need to identify which type yours is. A bit of googling or posting a picture of your spindle nose would help.
D1-3 backplates and chucks are easily available, I have purchased from both Warco and Gloster tooling with complete satisfaction, not tried Chronos. But I had to send the backplates from another well known supplier back as the fit was appallling. I bought a 125mm 4 jaw s/c from ARC and am very pleased with it.
I seem to remember reading that the D1-3 backplates can be easily modified to fit the non camlock spindle by replacing the existing camlock pins by studs, but my memory often fails me!. I'm sure someone on the forum will know more about that type of mounting. If you PM me I can try to scan the page from the manual showing chuck fitting.
Just re-read the trail above after morning caffeine injection and had missed that the D1-3 backplate conversion has been covered already, so it's not only the memory thats failing then! But I did have a very late night yesterday!!
Edited By Dave Wootton on 12/06/2021 07:27:39
Edited By Dave Wootton on 12/06/2021 07:30:24
|Thread: New here, just bought myself a Myford ML10 :)!|
My old and much missed mate had an ML10, he turned out countless Stuart turner engines, a Rob Roy, Lion and a Pansy ( some jobs on this on an old Colchester I had) . Apart from a small drill press it was his only machine tool, he treasured the lathe and I never heard him complain about it. He was too busy using it!
So it may not have the convenience of some of the larger more expensive lathes but they are capable little machines, and like a lot of the smaller, cheaper machines that have been available over the years can turn out (sorry!) good work and provide much enjoyment.
Hope you have many happy hours with it.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 09/06/2021 06:09:34
|Thread: KENNIONS MODEL ENGINEERING SUPPLIES|
Can only fully agree with the above, use them often. Materials are always excellent as is the service. Their castings are very good too , clean with good machining allowance and machine nicely.
|Thread: Small drill honing jig|
Full details and drawings for his drill sharpening jig are included in D.A.G.Browns excellent book on making injectors, easily available.
The little credit card sized diamond pad detailed in the drawings is available from ARC.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 02/06/2021 16:46:07
|Thread: Boxford paint colour - but not blue or green!|
If you can't get a paint code car paint suppliers can match paints to a sample very closely, I got them to match and make up a synthetic enamel and they used a retarder in the mix so it could be brush painted, it lasted very well on a green Colchester ( this was before Paragon was available).
You need one of the older fashioned paint suppliers that are used to matching faded car paints, I believe the minimum is 1 litre. I did try Halfords colour match spray recently when I made a power feed for my mill, the result was laughable, and there are no refunds, despite the green paint being blue!
Edited By Dave Wootton on 31/05/2021 06:36:37
|Thread: Burnerd Chuck Jaws|
If its any help i can recommend the chucks sold by ARC, I bought a 4 Jaw s/c 125mm chuck and couldn't believe the accuracy over a range of diameters, I was so impressed I bought a 125mm 3 jaw initially for rougher work to save my nos P-B 3 jaw, but again the accuracy is most impressive. Only had them a couple of weeks so can't say its a long term test, not quite as smooth in operation as the P-B but seems well made and an absolute bargain at £50 for the 3 jaw. It cost more for the D1 backplate than the chuck!
|Thread: Bantam metric leads crew & half nut|
I bought lengths of Metric leadscrew from a company called Kingston engineering from hull, they also sold nut blanks, no idea of the cost as it was for work and they sorted out the grubby details of money. Was a while ago but i see they have a website. I'm sure there was a firm in Bristol that sold it as well.
There is a firm called Nobilla that breaks Colchester lathes, but their prices are not bargain basement! However I bought a used Bantam tailstock spindle from them described as good condition, but when it arrived it was as good as new , in fact I think it was unused, so I was delighted. The chap that told me of them said they are very fussy about the condition of what they sell.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 30/05/2021 13:29:03
Edited By Dave Wootton on 30/05/2021 13:34:04
|Thread: Advice on moving an Archdale radial drill|
Don't know if this will help but I sold a largeish lathe and the buyer used 1 Tonne transport services of Halifax to collect it, I don't know how much they charged but I was very impressed with the care that was taken in loading the machine and accessories. Phone number is 01422 300129. No connection to them but can recommend, the driver knew quite a bit about machine tools and how to move them.
As far as moving prices go, from two different companies I was quoted around £500 inc VAT to move a Bridgeport 65 miles when I moved house in 2017. I actually sold the machine as it wasn't in great condition and wasn't worth spending the money to move it.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2021|
Lovely job Pete, I remember the initial post and it is good to see the final result, a worthwhile project that has finished up as a useful machine. Very nicely finished and painted.
|Thread: Replacement feedscrew and nut service on Lathes website.|
Thanks I found it easily following your method, I will send him a PM, another thing added to my meagre computer skills!
There was a recent post from I think Robert about replacement feedscrew nuts for his Myford VMC milling machine. I did post a suggestion and he did thank me by PM, but like the idiot I am deleted it and now can't find his post. It was tacked on the end of another thread i think.
Anyway just looking on the Lathes uk machine tools for sale page, as you do, and there is an advert for service to manufacture or recondition feedscrews and nuts, thought it might prove useful information to someone.
Absolutely no connection to them, never used them and don't know anyone who has, but thought it was worth posting.
|Thread: Kennedy Hexacut Model 90|
As Ady says hex bar is easily available, I had one of these many years ago, very worn through years of cutting through copper busbars. I can't remember the details but it was fairly easy to fabricate new guide frames. If I remember correctly one end of the hex guide was cast into an alloy pivot block. I replicated this by machining and fabricating the block from solid and turning hex bar down to a push fit in reamed holes in the block and locating it with grub screws, easy to align using the slider as a guide, nowadays I would use loctite retainer. It was a successful repair and the little saw worked quite well after, now long gone replaced by a chinese bandsaw.
Definitely worth repairing though, they chug away while you do other things, and it wasn't a huge job to do, all the milling was within the capacity of a ML7 and vertical slide.
|Thread: Myford VM-C Milling Machine|
Try David Anchell at Quillstar he has a stock of various spares for both Myford lathes and mills.
My friend has a well used VMC and a few years ago when he needed a new feed nut he took his old one to Warco and they found a match in their spares.The old Myford in Nottingham he found most unhelpful even though the machine was not very old at the time. Might be worth a phone call to Warco or Chester who sell VMC clones.
|Thread: Pillar drill motor size?|
I've got a Fobco Star drill 1/2" capacity, just looked at the motor plate and it has only got a 1/3 HP motor (which I know is the original fitted by the makers). I've had it for years and never noticed any lack of power. So unless you are some kind of drill demon I would think 1/3 HP motor would be fine on yours.
|Thread: Tinplate locomotive identification|
They are indeed lovely, quite envious! They look like the sort of thing that LBSC referred to as his "AJAX" in some of his articles, seen them called Birmingham dribblers as well. I once borrowed a reprinted copy of an old toy catalogue from the library, it was for " Stevens Model Dockyard" and contained various models of similar type, I think it dated from the turn of the century ( the19 th!). Might be a place to start googling from.
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