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Member postings for Dave Wootton

Here is a list of all the postings Dave Wootton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Setting left and right side
25/01/2022 14:07:20

Hi Michael

The wheels should be quartered as it's known i.e the crankpins on one side should be at 90 degrees to the crankpins on the other for a two cylinder engine. Which side leads depends on the prototype you are following. I think the LNER used right hand side leading, as did most but there are exceptions. so do check I'm sure someone on the forum will know for a B1.

The good news is you can't see both sides of the engine at once so no one will probably ever notice!


To make ot clearer looking at the engine from the right hand side with the chimney on the right, the right hand crankpin would be at the three o clock position with rhe RH cylinder at full forward stroke. The left hand crankpin would be at the twelve o clock position and the LH piston mid stroke.

Edited By Dave Wootton on 25/01/2022 14:09:44

Edited By Dave Wootton on 25/01/2022 14:15:45

Thread: Is it possible to by "100% non-stick" spatulas for spreading glue? (ideally made from teflon/FEP)
25/01/2022 13:43:28

I must admit I enjoy all these threads enormously, some rumble on for weeks!

Particularly liked Hoppers non stick glue comment.


Edited By Dave Wootton on 25/01/2022 13:44:02

Thread: Elliott Model 181 Universal Milling Head
22/01/2022 09:50:29

Hi Dean

I'd agree with NDIY regarding stripping the mill head unless you suspect something amiss I'd leave well alone, these are very tough old things designed for heavy constant use in industry.

If its not been used in a while a long run at slow speed in various orientations of the swivel head should warm it up a bit and loosen up the grease within. At one time I looked after the machine tools in a large production factory and bearing problems in assemblies such as this were very rare, from memory only caused by monumental smash ups that bent spindles and damaged gears.

I'm not trying to be negative but it is quite possible to do more harm than good dismantling something of this type.


Thread: 5"gauge speedy
17/01/2022 16:23:17

Hi Chris

There are Speedy build logs over on the Model Engineering  Clearing house / Proboards forum, and plenty of other good build logs dealing with piston valve cylinders, and almost everything else. The forum is largely locomotive based and a great resource.


Edited By Dave Wootton on 17/01/2022 16:30:34

Thread: 4-4-2 inside cylinder loco
11/01/2022 12:32:52


The Dunalastair articles were in M.E in1901, Vol 4 issues 42,44,46,48,50 and Vol 5 issues 54,56,58 written by E.L. Pearce titled " Building a Dunalastair II" . I don't have the issues unfortunately although I'm sure copies could be obtained.

I was wrong in my last post the loco was spirit fired with a centre flue boiler, the articles may well apply to your chassis and could help with identification. The chassis shape does rather look like a Dunalastair with a bit on the back. found the above info on a google search.


Thread: Packing
11/01/2022 10:24:00

Hi Derek

+1 for MDF I use it all the time, as Brian says doesn't harm cutters and is also a consistent thickness.


Thread: 4-4-2 inside cylinder loco
11/01/2022 10:11:13

There was a series of articles on building a 31/2" gauge Caledonian Dunalastair in ME in the early years of the last century, There was also an article on rebuilding one in the 70's or 80's written by Geoff Cashmore. I think the original designer was called Pierce, I did try to buy a part completed one years ago at a club auction but was heavily outbid. Sadly that engine was scrapped by the buyer.

The Dunalastair articles long before LBSC were one of the very first detailed descriptions of a live steam model as we know today, of scale appearance with proper valve gear and coal fired. At one point the volumes containing it were reprinted in bound volumes, I borrowed them at one point from a friend as I always liked the Dunalastair's.

A part finished one came up on ebay around four years ago, I did bid but the auction finished early for some reason. You have a little piece of history there! Might be worth a request on the M.E proboards site as it is more locomotive based.


Thread: Items which gave most satisfaction to make
09/01/2022 12:07:46

Another not really model engineering, or not even actually making something, but I was very pleased with the result and got a lot of satisfaction from the job. A friend bought a marlow vertical mill very cheaply, which turned out to be in very good order apart from the 3MT spindle taper which was absolutely torn to shreds, we looked at various options but it was a bit far gone for just cleaning up with a reamer. After dismantling I noticed there was possibly enough meat on the spindle to bore out and adapt to R8. some quick sketches proved the idea viable.As I had just changed lathes and didn't have a fixed steady ( now rectified with a hemingway kit) we decided to see if it could be done on my friends elderly ML7 which came with steadies, (which incidentally has had the wide guide conversion, most successful) All went well and I'm pleased to say the finished job exceeded all expectations and is in regular use. Sometimes things just go according to plan, we even found the star point in the 3 phase motor easily so we could wire in delta for an inverter.

If only every task went so well! If anyone starts a thread on your worst failures I could certainly contribute to that.


Thread: First model recommendations
07/01/2022 18:15:41

Friend of mine is building a 10v from newly purchased castings and his castings were fine, last time I saw it was nearly complete and looking very nice. He is a complete beginner building on an ML10 and vertical slide and has dropped a couple of clangers along the way but is doing very well.

Not sure if it's still in print but I lent him my copy of Andrew Smiths book on building the 10v which is very good.

When I built mine the castings were about £15 the set!!

Good luck with whatever you decide.


Edited By Dave Wootton on 07/01/2022 18:17:50

Thread: Silver solder resist
05/01/2022 16:43:08

Recently I couldn't find Tippex brand locally, so tried W H Smiths own solvent brand it works just as well as the genuine article and turns out to be much cheaper too!


Thread: Myford Super 7 at SRS for only 395
04/01/2022 18:48:26

Well done Bob

Really nice project, I'm sure it will turn out to be a great lathe, I'll second Steve in requesting some posts on how you are getting on with it.

So glad it's not going to be broken up and has found a good home.


04/01/2022 16:57:29

Hooray its sold- and not to me! I can abandon my devious schemes for smuggling it into the workshop unseen. and pretending I found it in the canal.

Hope the new owner restores it, even better if they posted a log here.


04/01/2022 16:27:15


Hope someone buys it soon and takes temptation away!

I really don't need it ,and if it was mint wouldn't be as tempted even at a bargain price, so what strange compulsion makes certain people want to take home lumps of rust and restore them to something approaching their former glory?

As a kid I had a perfectly nice shiny bicycle bought by parents, yet pulled old bikes out of rivers and hedges and attempted to restore them. Obviously a lifelong affliction.

I wonder what a shrink would make of it all?




Edited By Dave Wootton on 04/01/2022 16:28:13

Edited By Dave Wootton on 04/01/2022 16:32:31

04/01/2022 13:29:47

I'd love to take that on, keep me amused for hours, but feel it could be very bad for my health - when SWMO saw what I'd brought home!

I think if we were not planning a house move I might have been on the phone to SRS, I do enjoy a machine tool project, hoping to find a Drummond M type after the move. I did an Elliot 10" shaper years ago that had been outside under a tarp, it wasn't untill we went to move it we realised the bottom inch or so of the stand had completely rusted away as it had stood in a puddle! Never looked very shiny when done but worked very well, amazing how cast iron cleans up.


Edited By Dave Wootton on 04/01/2022 13:35:35

Thread: ML7 lathe bed
04/01/2022 09:50:28

Hi Steve

Worth checking carefully before paying out for regrinding, there were some very good articles in MEW about a year ago by Hopper, who frequents this site, specifically about checking and rectification of the ML7 lathe bed. He converted his to the wide guide principal ( see Richard Ganderton's article in the downloads on the home page) Very well thought out articles and worth seeking out. If yours is an early ML7 the wide guide conversion is well worth consideration, I've never done it but a friend who did it kicked himself several times for not doing it sooner!



Edited By Dave Wootton on 04/01/2022 09:51:38

Thread: Recomendations for a Keyless Chuck?
30/12/2021 17:56:04


I've got a Vertex keyless with integral arbour for my mill which is great,had it a long time, but they are now quite pricey. I more recently bought a 2MT integral arbour keyless from Rotagrip, not Vertex but it was their cheaper unmarked brand model, very pleased with it, both in accuracy and build quality.


Thread: The Bistella motorcycle
25/12/2021 09:29:19

Have to agree with Michael G

Bonkers but beautiful, I'm so glad people do this sort of thing.

Merry Christmas


Thread: Silver soldering stainless steel
24/12/2021 05:52:16

My simplex has a radiant superheater made from stainless, the two tubes are threaded with a fine pitch into a small stainless block cross drilled to form a return bend with a plug threaded in. Then I brazed over all the joints as a sealing measure. It's been in the engine for nearly thirty years and has been run a lot , in fact it's very worn, but no trouble with the superheater. At the smokebox end it is silver soldered into copper, using Tenacity flux. I made the block a bit oversize to make it easier to hold during machining, the threaded holes for the superheater tubes are very close together, and then linished down until it would fit through the superheater tube.

By brazing I mean using SIF flux and a Sifbronze rod, I've always known it as bronze welding,which is what it was called where I served my time, but I've also heard it called brazing, bronze brazing, and a host of others. I didn't use any special flux for  brazing the stainless, just the normal pink stuff from SIF. But did heat it very quickly. Doubtless some will think it all wrong and doomed to failure, but it's been fine all these years!


Edited By Dave Wootton on 24/12/2021 05:53:44

Thread: jury service
17/12/2021 17:57:46

I've just done mine this October, I was very peeved and reluctant to go regarding it as a thorough nuisance, stopping me loco building. However despite having to suffer the awful traffic around Canterbury every day for two and a half weeks, in the end it was interesting and I think important to do properly.

It was a serious crime with multiple defendants, and I was impressed by the care taken by the court and my fellow jurors to reach a balanced and reasoned outcome. I believe it to be as good a system as any and I'd happily do it again if asked. Did slow down progress in the workshop though!

Was made foreman and was a bit intimidating having to stand up and state the verdicts, the defendants were quite beefy!

Edited By Dave Wootton on 17/12/2021 17:59:50

Thread: (again) buying new European made lathe
15/12/2021 06:47:43


Alien abduction by extra terrestrials is the only way I could think of at the time that would find me not having the 254+ any more. I've been very happy with the machine since I bought it last spring. Have no thoughts of selling or changing which is most unusual for me!

Not noticed any extra terrestrial activity around here, although there are a few people around that seem to live on another planet. We have an anti vax protester regularly demonstrating in town who according to her placard believes we are under control by the lizard people. I'm afraid I'm under the control of my wife who apart from liking the heating at a level that would not shame a vivarium, shows no lizard tendencies yet!


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