Here is a list of all the postings Dave Wootton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Milling machines - western-made s/h recommendations up to £2k|
I'm the same as Tony on the VMC type mill. I've got a Myford VME which is just slightly larger than the VMC, chosen because of its R8 spindle which suits all the tooling I have from when I had a Bridgeport. I've used all manner of mills in industry and am very pleased with the VME which I've had for around 8 years. I had an omnimill at one time but never got on with it, not a bad machine I just found the vertical head a bit springy. My favourite mill ever was a Thiel 158 but they cost a fortune with all the accessories and weigh a ton, you need to be Charles Atlas to change the various tables! My friend builds large scale traction engines on a Warco VMC with no problems, he's even got a huge riser block under the head which looks wrong to me, but it seems to work for him..
|Thread: All the gear, no idea|
Sorry for your loss, it might be worth considering using Tony Griffiths of Lathes.co.uk to advertise the machines for you, if you send clear pictures of the machines and their accessories to him he will identify the items, value them and draft an advertisement for you and run it on his website. I believe the charge is about £40 + vat for each machine, less for smaller items. I've sold a couple of machines easily through his site. Also a few years ago we cleared a friends workshop which contained clockmaking and ornamental turning machinesand accessories, odd things beyond my experience, and without Tony's help I think we would have raised much less than we did, a machine tool dealer did make an absolute paltry offerof a few hundred pounds which is what prompted us to contact Tony. In the end we raised several thousand, no connection but did find his services worthwhile .
If you email him it's best to phone as well he tends to miss emails I think he's pretty busy.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 07/04/2021 08:37:25
|Thread: Using two torches|
My Sievert regulator has two outlet connections on it, both on the regulated side of the regulator ( if that makesany sense!) so I believe it would be fine to use one regulator with the Y piece after it. I have used two torches from one bottle for boiler and other large jobs with no problems. Might be a problem with the bottle cooling if you tried it with a very small bottle, I've got over the problem of icing by standing it in a drum of water with a garden hose gently running over it, not my idea I watched some roofers do it!.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 06/04/2021 06:53:32
|Thread: Tom Senior s head alternatives?|
I've seen a very shabby Senior M1 with thick walled tubular spacers machined from round bar in each corner under the column, it looked awful but seemed to be working ok. It set me thinking that maybe that idea with welded in flat bar on each side could be an alternative to finding a solid slab to mount the column on and be dressed up to match the profile of the column.. Never got around to trying it as I sold the mill and bought a bigger machine mainly as I already had R8 tooling, but the Senior was a sturdy and accurate little mill.
|Thread: Milling Cutters for the Novice|
I can't add anything to the very good advice given above, but if you do need a reference for cutter speeds and feeds the one in Tubal Cains's book "The model engineers handbook" a is very good guide. Mine of other information too.
|Thread: Think you have trouble losing your chuck key?|
Inspirational and beautiful work William, I am in awe. Thank you for posting this and please keep them coming, this is just the sort of thing I love to see on the forum.
|Thread: Myford 254 Plus toolpost type|
That would be why the smaller toolpost is specified then, as you suggest it doesn't look like anything much bigger would fit, not the end of the world as I'm sure the T00 size will do everything I need.
I've just gone all extravagant and aquired a Myford 254 Plus lathe, to replace my ML7-R and Colchester Bantam in order to free up some space in the workshop.
I'm a little surprised that the spec for the Dixon toolpost is given as a T00 or S00 the same as the 7 range of lathes, which seem a bit small for the machine, if there are any owners out there, would they let me know what they have fitted please. I need to know whether to keep the Dixon from the ML7-R or the T1 size from the Bantam (same size as Boxford use) Any pointers on suitable size would be appreciated.
I will not get the new machine for a week or so so i can't measure the centre to topslide distance until then. and internet searches have not revealed anything specific to the 254 plus, I imagine the plus refers to the slight increase in centre height.
I'm also very tempted by the Multifix clones available, I've used them at work and like them, so I'd be interested if anyone has fitted one to a 254.
Any help much appreciated.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 30/03/2021 19:59:54
|Thread: Anyone done any Nickel or Chrome plating of mild steel parts at home?|
A few years ago but I replated a 1930's motorcycle at home using a Dynic kit that was available in the 70's and 80's, agree with Gary that it is very time consuming. The kit I had only did the old fashioned dull nickel which had to be polished after plating, The results were very good and although I sold it a long time ago I know it still looks good today, There is a copy of " the vintage motorcyclists workshop " by Radco available free somewhere on the internet which has full practical instructions, I followed these to the letter. Only problem I had is that sometimes it is very difficult to get the plating to get into internal corners. I imagine that the Gateros kit is much the same as my old Dynic, I used their Zinc plating kit with very good results, if that is suitable it seemed slightly easier to use than the nickel. I enjoyed the whole thing found it a very satisfying process, almost magical!
Edited By Dave Wootton on 25/03/2021 06:30:52
|Thread: Mystery 2&1/2" gauge 2-2-2 locomotive rolling chassis|
Hope we didn't put you off too much! worth looking at the Gauge 3 Society and the 2 1/2" gauge association websites. There are some designs for this gauge by Chris Barron of The Locomotive design company that might suit your requirements, he hasn't got a website but will send out lists of his drawings. I know he does a LNWR Jumbo " Hardwicke" ( my very favourite engine!) and Caledonian Cardean amongst his designs, all are coal fired , close to scale and have proper valve gear. Time so short and so many beautiful locomotives!
The one on the cover of shop shed and road is of curly's Grosvenor in 3 1/2" gauge, it was his own pet engine, true to scale but never published .
br has hit the nail on the head the drawing is " Belle Stroudley" , I'm afraid it's one of Curlys updated engines where he fits an oversize boiler which to my eye makes it look like a caricatureof the original engine, there is a small grainy picture on Page 35 of Brian Hollingsworth's LBSC book, so at least one has been built.
In one of the museums , can't remember which one, is a beautiful model of a LBSCR G class, built by J.N Maskelyne in O gauge, I remember being very impressed by his craftsmanship. It may have been the old London toy and model museum.
From the wheel arrangement and the paint colour I think it may be " Belle Stroudley" a LBSCR class G 2-2-2 one of LBSC's designs for 2 1/2" gauge. It is certainly a rare bird I've never seen one. According to the 2 1/2" gauge association website plans are not available. There may have been a write up in one of the magazines such as Modelmaker or Practical Mechanics. I'll see what I can find out. Would make an attractive and interesting model.
I've just had a better look ( after a coffee!" in " LBSC his life and locomotives" it was described in M.E in 1932, from SRS's website it looks decently made, I'm guessing it was intended for Joy valve gear as there only seems to be a pump eccentric on the crank.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 09/03/2021 07:15:23
Edited By Dave Wootton on 09/03/2021 07:16:03
I know that for vintage car work where Ternplate was specified coachbuilders now use Zintec sheet, which is I think just mild steel with a zinc coating or plating on it. Seems readily available in large sheets, was given some offcuts and it's lovely stuff to work with, very ductile.
Solders easily too with Bakers fluid or Fluxite.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 08/03/2021 10:47:44
|Thread: Not the only president causing problems.|
And to think I like 2 1/2" gauge because the loco's are easy to carry about! progress a little slow lately as I've been found other things to do by SWMBO, and the Covid injection made me feel quite rough for a few days. The steam pipe drillings into the PV steam chest were found to be drilled at different angles, and on one it had been drilled in the wrong place, I did think of blanking the existing holes off and re-drilling, but am wary of trying to silver solder here as there has been a lot of soft solder splashed about on the cylinders, looks like someone tried to solder plain tube in the steampipe holes.Despite thorough cleaning off and facing the casting old soft solder caused problems building up the base of the cylinders. Ended up making cardboard templates and using those to locate the steam pipe drillings through the smokebox wall which were cut with a slot drill. Steam pipes made up and small sealing spacers filed up to hopefully seal where they pass through the smokebox, for some reason this took a huge amount of time to sort out, putting one thing right puts something else out. for such a simple looking job it has been one of the most frustrating so far. I had made the smokebox door dogs to the drawing, but thought they looked a bit odd with square ends, photographs of the full size show them rounded off which looks much better, although some of the full size did have square ended dogs ,maybe made up in the sheds?.
I had to bite the bullet and round the fiddly little things off, tried filing buttons but too small, si I had to make a little fixture to go on my little GHT rotary table. The brass dog locates in a groove to hold it in place with a pin that fits through its fixing hole and is held with a small clamp. Rounded them all off ok, but it's a good job I made a few spares! I still have no control over where pictures go, but i'm sure you can work out which is which, they also show the built up chimney, the door in place and the bell in position. there's still the headlight to make and fit, but I'll leave this until a little light relief is needed from something else (pun intended!).
|Thread: Inherited ML7 in need of some love - where to start?|
Can only agree wholeheartedly with the good advice above, just clean it oil it and use it,any shortcomings will soon be apparent. These are tough little things capable of good work even with some wear.
I know someone, who about twenty years ago, got a very nice early super 7 , with the oil sight glass, very useable but a little scruffy, despite advice to the contrary he stripped it for a full rebuild and repaint to as new. I believe it's still in bits at the back of his garage to this day.....
good luck with it , enjoy using it.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 02/03/2021 12:02:06
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2021|
I'm with you on the what I hav'nt done today or the last few days, Had my covid jab on Sunday morning, felt terrible Monday, same shivery thing as you, and have been a steadily improving zombie for the last few days. All very frustrating, theres loco's to be built, hope the second jab doesn't do the same.
|Thread: Winson Modelworks Thompson K1 2-6-0 drawings|
Not sure if it's the design Winson used but Reeves currently list Don Youngs MacCailin Mor drawings on their website.
|Thread: Making mild steel look like cast iron|
As mentioned above steel shotblasting gives a good representation, At one time I worked for someone fabricating replica vintage/ veteran car parts and we had them blasted with steel shot ,it's quite hard to find places that used it, I found a marine company that did it as a favour and a donation to the tea fund. You must carefully mask any threads or bearing seats before blasting, It's a very convincing effect. Normal sandblasting didn't have as convincing an effect, but works for replicating forgings quite nicely.
I think theres a scrap water pump body somewhere ( see above re masking bearing seats and threads!) if I can find it i'll post a picture.
As an aside to give a cast finish on welded aluminium casting repairs, laying old fashioned sandpaper over the area and lightly tapping blends it in nicely, Technique beloved of naughty people who change crankcase numbers to make them into something more desirable, eg Triumph 6T into T120R. we were asked to do it all the time- but didn't.
|Thread: Elliot 10m|
Interesting comment about a wall not stopping a shaper, some years ago a club member bought an Alba shaper. Transported it home with a couple of helpers, put it in his garage up against the wall on a couple of rollers. Without having a look to see how it worked, or ever using a shaper before, plugged it in and switched it on at the wall socket, there followed an almighty crash and the ram knocked three thermalite blocks out of the garage wall also propelling the machine across the workshop. As it was an integral garage it was now possible to see directly into the hall. Turns out the machine had been converted to single phase just by fitting a new motor wired directly to the plug, and the cutch was engaged.....!
Needless to say he took a while to live that one down. According to an eyewitness the accelleration of a shaping machine has to be seen to be believed.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 20/02/2021 10:49:06
|Thread: Not the only president causing problems.|
I should have been finishing the cylinders and making piston valves, but as it's been cold in the workshop been doing some bits that don't take too much thinking about, it seems low temperatures result in brain freeze, perhaps due to my lack of cranial insulation. I ordered some 16g smokebox tube from M-Machine who obviously had run out, but someone there took the trouble to machine down a bit of thick wall tube to the correct o/d and sent me that, which I think is very good service, it ended up with a 1/8" wall thickness which gave me the idea of fitting the smokebox front using three pins and a bayonet type device, much simpler than my original plan of fitting a narrow ring at the front of the smokebox to thicken the wall, there now being a good thickness of smokebox wall to anchor the pins. Smokebox door is turned from a lump of brass bar, fitted with dummy hinges and drilled and tapped to take 12 little dummy door dogs, just waiting for some more 10 BA bolts to arrive. The chimney and petticoat pipe are made to the drawings and are a bit of a faff, I finally made a GHT design mandrel handle to screwcut the short internal thread on the petticoat pipe which made it easy to control, why didn't I do it years ago?! Some fiddly filing on the base of the chimney and the spacer washer turned on a small angle plate fixture to the inside smokebox radius. Now it's warming up my brain might function well enough to get on with the cylinders, smokebox is only rested on for the pictures which is why the chimney isn't vertical.
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