Here is a list of all the postings Dave Wootton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: MES Kennet Tool and Cutter Grinder|
This should be a picture of the ER25 collet holder I made to fit my Kennet, all fabricated from odds and ends because as you say there is not much room with the existing casting. The collet holder is an ER25 straight shank one, unfortunately I bought mine from a well known UK tool supplier that also sells on ebay, and the chuck was .005" out, and was not as shown in the pictures drilled through. Couldn't send it back as it had languished in a drawer for a year or so before i looked at it closely, fortunately managed to remachine it and drill it through.
Have not tried sharpening any milling cutters on it yet ,but it is most usefull for making D bits and simple reamers, and screwdrivers ground on it are excellent, Wouldn't be too difficult to arrange a finger stop and alteration to enable the collet to slide and thus sharpen the sides of cutters, some method of locking the Kennet table wouldn't be too hard to arrange
Edited By Dave Wootton on 14/05/2022 13:29:16
|Thread: Tools needed to build a 3 1/2in gauge Tich|
Even if none of Kozo Hiraoka's designs do not appeal to you it is well worth investing in a couple of his books, his drawings and instructions are superb, amazing in that english is not his first language. I've not built any of his designs but have used many of his ideas and methods on other loco's. I must say the little Pennsy switcher looks to be a very nice little engine, and he gives instructions on how to fabricate many parts, saving the cost ,and in some cases, difficulty of working with castings. Good luck with your choice, you can have an awful lot of fun with small engines, my Rob Roy is not the best built example in the world and it is a bit worn but can still manage to pull a couple of people round quite happily.
|Thread: SENIOR Mill for someone?|
Looks like it could be a proper swivelling Boxford shaper vice on the table, these are very rare and were only supplied on the machines with a swivelling table. I put one on ebay a few years ago and the bidding went mad, went for almost the price of this mill!
|Thread: Myford Super 7 at SRS for only £395|
Great job, the lathe looks fantastic, an amazing transformation into something really useful. A miniature lathe sounds an interesting project, years ago there was someone building a scale model Drummond round bed treadle lathe, it was shown on one of the club stands at the old Wembley exhibitions, every year it used to advance a bit more but I never got to see it finished and have never seen a reference to it anywhere. About 8" long and very nicely made, anyone else remember it or know what happened to it?
This has been a most interesting thread, thanks for posting.
This is a very interesting post, you're doing a great job, I remember the original post for this lathe, I'm so pleased it went to a good home. You will end up with a very nice machine.
Sadly I just missed out on an Acorntools shaper in similar condition which I was itching to restore, it went for scrap along with a couple of other machines due to eager property developer types, such a shame, been after it for ages.
Please keep up the posts.
|Thread: Cromwell S800 lathe - NECO motor|
I did up a S800 some years ago ( its the light green one on the lathes website that now looks like it's in someones front room!) I fitted a 1hp motor and VFD , from memory it was a 4 pole motor that I ran up to 3000rpm and it worked fine. I did look into DC drives for the original motor but the expense was not much different to a VFD and motor, and bearing in mind the original motor must be well over 60 years old didn't think it worth it. Seem to remember the field voltage was not in the standard range for an easily obtainable DC drive, but it was about twenty years ago now so might have that wrong.
Cromwell are very good lathes but I couldn't ever get used to the controls in a different position, must not be very adaptable I suppose, good luck with it.
|Thread: Myford VME milling machine|
Some pictures of the one I made for my VM-E, I got information on what to buy from John Baguley's website and used the speed controller as described on Myforboy's youtube video. I'm afraid it was cobbled up from materials I had, the pulleys, belt and speed controller are from ebay and the motor, power supply and drive unit from Stepperonline. Been in fairly hard use for over a year now with no problems, in fact this morning was the first time I've looked inside it since building it. I enjoyed making the dog clutch, not sure if it is entirely necessary but it works well. The main structure is all alloy to save weight, and because I had some! Bit of a fiddle to connect the remote potentiometer and switches to the control card, but despite hamfistedness it is doable. there is no facility for rapid traverse other than winding the speed control pot up fully, but if you were into things like Arduino's it should be possible. There are other pictures in my album one has the pasrt numbers of the motor and controller. Hope this is of use. Dave
Meant to say the arrangement uses the original feedscrew end bearing arrangement, which in this case had been faced off square so it was all very easy to arrange. I didn't bother about extending the shaft to fit the feed dial as the machine has DRO fitted.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 20/04/2022 09:11:03
|Thread: Source of brass treblet tubing as used for making a whistle.|
I've always been useless at making whistles, but suceeded following a design from M.E that is fully machined from brass, it was described in M.E in an article " Jupiters Whistle" and I think the authors name was Olds, would have been early 1980's at a guess . mine is quite small and shrill but the steam gap is adjustable and it is easy to tune, the size can be varied , the longer the bell part the lower the note. I used an electronic tuner, had a photocopy of the article but just tried to find it and afraid I can't.
No soldering required!
Edited By Dave Wootton on 19/04/2022 14:24:55
|Thread: Myford Lever Action Tailstock Design and Build|
Lovely work and an excellent write up, makes me want to make one and I haven't got a ML7!!! but do feel inspired to make a ball handle for my saddle lock.
Good luck with finding the correct pencil, I now know how critical these things can be, but after sticking a scriber in my finger yesterday I might be safer with crayons.
|Thread: cutting pyrex tube to length|
I've been experimenting with cutting gauge glass tube to length for hydrostatic lubricator sight glasses that have to seal on the end cut face. These are 10mm dia so smaller than yours.
As Baz suggests the most sucess so far has been diamond cut off wheel in a dremel mounted on the lathe toolpost, cutting very deeply into the tube wall until it's almost through and it will then break off easily. I've tried scoring the tube with a diamond file without much luck, the dremel has the best results although the cut ends still need a trim as in this application the tube needs to seal on its cut end face.
To get the end faces flat I've been using a diamond sharpening stone with a guide to keep the end square, good job I bought lots of glass tube as initially the atrition rate was very high, I only spoil about one in four now!
One tip you might find handy is once you have cut your first successful tube to the perfect length with nice smooth, square ends is not to let it roll off the bench and tread on it. Don't ask me how I know that!
Edited By Dave Wootton on 16/04/2022 17:25:16
|Thread: Detroit Hydrostatic Lubricator|
Glad you found the Proboards site ok, it is more locomotive orientated than this forum, and thanks to Duncan for posting the link to the lubricator drawings I had not seen those. Please do keep us updated on your progress and findings, a few more pictures of your locomotive would be appreciated too, some lovely workmanship there and an interesting prototype.
Keep up the good work I look forward to seeing it progress.
|Thread: Murad Cadet Restoration Project|
Excellent job, a really worthwhile project with a very useful end result. Thanks for posting I've followed this with great interest, as a result I gave evaporust a try and am most impressed with it, always something new to learn.
|Thread: Zyto lathe problem|
As Brian says a common problem with some of these older machines, i had the same with a Drummond M type, there are drawings available on the old Drummond Yahoo group of modifications to interpose an idler gear, which may give food for thought. There was a post on this forum by David George about machining and fitting an idler gear to his Drummond, a search here should work. I believe castings are available for that machine, but again thismight give you a few ideas. I had to modify mine as I used a traditional lathe at work and couldn't get used to the change when using my lathe at home, the mod's David did were much more elegant than mine.
|Thread: ER16 Collets from Ebay|
+1 for CTC I have made several purchases including a set of ER25 collets and have been very pleased with them and everything else they have supplied. I did buy an ER25 straight shank collet chuck from RDG to use on my Kennet grinder and the run out on the internal taper of that was just under 5 thou, unfortunately it had sat in a drawer for a year or so before I tried it so couldn't return it, fortunately it machined ok, but after a few similar experiences I don't buy anything from that company anymore.
I don't know if they sell ER collets but I bought 5C collets from ARC and Gloster tooling and they are very satisfactory, as was the service from both.
My Vertex ER 32 collet set was quite pricey but the accuracy of the ones I checked was very pleasing.
|Thread: Murad Cadet Restoration Project|
While I would agree that VFD's are great thingsand I have fitted them to almost everything in the workshop,but if you just want to get the motor running and try the machine out for a while, I've cleaned up old motors in the past and used them successfully, mainly out of economic necessity ! The capacitors are cheap to buy and as long as it's all effectively earthed you shouldn't turn into the human torch when you switch it on. Worth cleaning out the crud in the windings carefully with a vacuum, and testing the resistance of the motor coils to earth.
I'm sure there will be moral outrage at this suggestion and before anyone questions my sanity I am a qualified HV engineer. The reason for suggesting trying the machine out for a while on the existing motor if you can is to find out if you like using it. I once spent a lot of time rebuilding a Smallpiece Cromwell lathe, which has an odd control arrangement, only to find I hated using it, this after replacing the aged Ward- Leonard variable speed drive with a new motor and VFD at great expense.
|Thread: Detroit Hydrostatic Lubricator|
I've not seen the Basil Palmer articles, so can't comment on that, but in the more usual version the only connection to boiler pressure is the steam feed to the oil tank which condenses to water to displace the oil, which is fed to the cylinders via the sight glass. Rather than gravity I have always believed it is the difference between boiler pressure and steam chest pressure which causes the oil to feed, hence the restrictor in the oil feed to the steam chest to prevent gulping when the regulator is closed and the pressure difference between boiler and steam chest would be greatest. I would have thought that feeding boiler pressure to the top of the sight glass would balance out the pressure across the sight glass and stop it feeding. There are variations in the design I think to the Fred Cottam/ Martin Evans version which use an atomising valve in the oil feed, but I have no experience of that. The simpler system built to the principles in Julian's article works extremely well and feeds very reliably and is easy to regulate.
The only time I have known feed problems with this system was when the oil tank was very close to the boiler and ashpan and failed to condense reliably. This was cleverly cured by the builder without moving the oil tank, he made a spiral coil in the steam feed and soldered it to the back of the cab steps to act as a heat sink, worked perfectly!
|Thread: Meddings Dril Tru - What to do?|
Meddings are still in business and can supply spare parts for some models, I dealt with them at work for spare parts and found them very knowledgeable and helpful, there's a wealth of product experience there.
Well worth a call if you are stuck.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 01/04/2022 12:33:14
|Thread: Detroit Hydrostatic Lubricator|
Not pestering at all, hope I have been of some help, I see Julian has kindly offered to send you the articles and drawings, he knows far more than me about these, I basically followed his instructions!
My Rob Roy is miles away on display in a relatives house ( failed boiler test!) so I can't measure it but I'm sure the oil pipe to the cylinders is 3/32". This is obviously a much shorter run than yours would be, but has worked fine, as the lubricator was a retro fit for a mechanical pump it is not run under the boiler lagging as I have seen advised to keep the oil warm and fluid. The pipe is quite cool to the touch but even thick cylinder oil finds its way through.
The sight glasses I have made so far have all used commercially available tube with pre ground ends, with O rings sealing against the end of the tube. So far I have only experimented with cutting the 10mm glass tube, the most successful method so far was using a Dremel drill with a diamond cutting disc with the tube held gently in an ER collett in the lathe and the Dremel clamped to the toolpost ( I say clamped but it was actually gaffa taped!! ) turning the lathe by hand. The ends were ground on a diamond sharpening stone using a piece of 1" dia steel with a hole bored a light sliding fit for the glass and the end faced off as a guide to facing the end off square. I've not made the sight glass yet so its not been put to the test but seems to have worked ok.
The glass I bought was sold for boiler sight glasses so I presume it is the tougher stuff, fortunately I bought lots of it as took a few attempts to cut it to length.
Do let us know how you get on with your installation, good luck with it.
The Julian Atkins article , originally published in a club magazine,is available on the Model Engineering Clearing House Proboards website forum, as is the picture and mention of Malcolm Browns Detroit style lubricator. I don't know how to post a link but I'm sure a search will find it. It is very similar to this forum but more biased towards locomotive construction. The Roy Amsbury articles are I believe in the build series for his Great Western locomotive President that was featured in Model Engineer magazine in the 1980's, I'm afraid I don't have copies of those. There are several threads on Hydrostatic lubricators on the site.
As regards the thickness of sight glass tube I bought some 10mm o/d glass tube with a wall thickness of just over 1mm, this was being sold as boiler gauge glass tube by a traction engine specialist. As the lubricator pressure cannot exceed boiler pressure I assume it should be ok. I need to make several sight glasses in the near future so I will experiment a little, the ones made previously have been hydraulically tested up to over boiler pressure, mainly to test for leaks, likewise the oil tank has been pressure tested.
The oil jet in the sight glass is drilled no 78 and the oil control valve has a gentle taper which gives good contol, A friend had a commercial sight glass which would not feed consistently, we found the oil jet was much too large at around.030" replacing it with a smaller jet made it perform well. The other important thing which i got from Julians article is a 1mm restrictor where the oil delivery enters the steam chest, this prevents gulping when steam is shut off.
Have a search for the M.E.C.H Proboards site, if you get stuck I'll try to forward a link , I'm not very good with computers! Maybe some kind person who is may post one.
Got it wrong about Malcolm Brown's Detroit lubricator, Its on M.E.C.H but only mentioned in a thread with a picture " Hydrostatic lubricator article" and is fitted to his Burma Mines locomotive. A very neat design resembling a Detroit lubricator.
Worth reading Malcolm's build thread a master of fabrications that look like castings, I pinch lots of his ideas.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 27/03/2022 08:56:22
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