Here is a list of all the postings Dave Wootton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford Lubrication... yet again!|
Just found the Lautard book, It is specific to the Alemite model 500 grease gun, the basic idea is to remove the plunger assembly, blank off the non business end and make a better nozzle. I can't post the drawings online in case there are copyright issues.
PM me and I'll scan the relevant pages. I really wouldn't bother buying the book there's only a few pages on the oil gun, the rest is stuff that's been done to death online and in magazines. I bought it when I was working somewhere and we had lubrication issues with some large turret mills, couldn't get oil in. But I found the answer in MEW using Arc's oil system.
+1 for the Pressparts oil gun, mines a few years old now still works well. The Lautard book used to be available from Camden, I did have a copy once, from what I remember there was nothing in it that was an earth shattering revelation, I seem to remember the grease gun mod involved a new piston with O ring seals.
I'll have a good look for it today if I find it I'll put a post on, but for me the Pressparts gun works fine out of the box.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
Tonight I finally finished making the running boards for my 2 1/2" Crab, thought a bit of sheet metalwork would be light relief from making the fiddly valve gear . I forgot it was just as fiddly and took ages!
|Thread: Silver soldering old German silver castings|
Thanks Keith and Michael, I managed to get out in the workshop this morning and make a bush to silver solder in, I'm pleased to say it all went very well, I took Keith's advice and did not try to complete the job quickly, or heat too fiercely.
I used some thin wire silver solder I keep for steam fittings, It's not cadmium free but it does flow very nicely. I cleaned everything carefully and pickled it before I started and used standard easy flow flux. I did attempt a picture but it didn't really show anything up worth looking at, if I get close enough to show the joint it just gets blurry! Must get a decent camera!
One bonus is the nickel silver is about the same colour as silver solder so the crack repair is almost invisible.
Thanks again for your help.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 24/05/2020 13:35:35
Thank you Michael, that's very informative and quite readable too, interestingly they say that castings may contain lead or tin, but it seems that it is quite possible to silver solder cast even containing lead providing it's done quickly.
I have some thin easyflow wire I use for steam fittings ( the old cadmium stuff) I will have a go with that, I won't be able to do it until next week, but I will post a conclusion, even if it's just a picture of a metallic puddle!
I have had a part finished 2 1/2" gauge Baltimore and Ohio pacific locomotive chassis for some time awaiting it's turn for some TLC. This was a design of the late 20's by Mr H.J.Coventry, with castings supplied in the UK by George Kennion, there are many casting used in it's construction, even the main loco frames are cast gunmetal.The original work was carried out very nicely, but as so often happens the parts fell into less careful hands, and in attempting to make the coupling rods fit with the wheel quartering all over the place, our hapless mechanic has filed out one of the coupling rod bosses which has then cracked, presumably as he tried to force the wheels round.
The coupling and connecting rods are unusual in that they were supplied as German silver castings, something I had seen in old copies of M.E but never seen before in the flesh. I'd like to preserve this feature, as I feel they are of their time and with some careful filing they could be made to look quite reasonable . I plan to silver solder a bush into the bore of the butchered rod, then bore out to the correct size and the correct axle spacing.
Reason for the post is, has anyone any experience of silver soldering old cast German (or Nickel) silver. I'm quite experienced at silver soldering, but have no knowledge of 80 ish year old cast German silver. I have silver soldered Nickel silver fabrications but never castings. I know their is a wealth of experience out there, so any tips or pointers would be most gratefully received
I have hopefully attached a couple of pictures of the rods and one of the chassis in as found condition, the cracked boss is the left hand one on the second set up.. Incidentally the loco came with an unconnected Basset Lowke tender, which has just been positively identified as being the original to Henry Greenly's Challenger locomotive from the battle of the boilers. Happily it's off to be reunited with Challenger after nearly 80 years apart.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 22/05/2020 19:09:15
|Thread: Needle File Recommendations?|
I'm a recent convert to Tome Feteira files and needle files from Arc, very pleased with them.
I have been using them on gauge plate for loco valve gear and they are lasting very well. I've also used Vallorbe in the past which were good but I think more expensive, but I was very disappointed in some Bahco files that didn't keep their edge at all.
I do keep separate files for brass, and they seem to last indefinitely, I've colour coded the handles because I'm easily confused.
|Thread: Taper Pins|
Maybe slightly off topic, but if you can't find a cross pin or taper pin in a collar or similar on a shaft, clean the outside diameter of the collar well, almost to a polished finish then apply very gentle heat, if you are lucky a small tell tale ring of grubby oil will appear around the pin .
Doesn't always work but it's helped me out in the past, I used to have to repair print machinery, the makers used to file the pins down and polish the surface, a nightmare to find. Works best on things that have lived in an oily environment, fails miserably on food machinery that's never seen oil or grease!.
|Thread: taper roller headstock adjustment|
From experience in the past with a roundhead Colchester Student I used to have with very similar problems, I think if it is a case of adjustment Pete Rimmer has a very good point. I had tried adjusting the bearings as tight as I dared with seemingly no difference, fortunately a fellow club member had been a Cincinatti milling machine service engineer for many years, he came round and as he suspected the bearing inners were stuck on the spindle, so wouldn't adjust.
Using a large C spanner the bearing inner moved, as Pete says with a crack, and he then went on to adjust the bearings, he fitted the faceplate and adjusted by spinning by hand and checking the rotation until it stopped, I believe it was either 1 1/2 or maybe 2 turns, it was a long time ago, and it was the large faceplate.
Interestingly before doing anything else he performed the fixed steady test, using the 4 jaw independent chuck as outlined above by Hopper, also let the lathe run for a good twenty minutes before doing any checks or adjustments. He also adjusted all the slides after that the finish on the work was vastly improved, this was on a very worn machine, with a very noisy headstock ( earplugs on higher speeds!). Followed importantly with a visit to the fish and chip shop and then the pub! So very worthwhile carrying out the checks advised in the other posts , there's some good practical information in there, good luck with it.
P.S the machine was fitted with a single phase motor.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2020|
Since I finished work at the end of March, and as we are in lockdown I thought it was time to get some of the un- started projects on the go. I've had the castings for these for some time but house moves, work and old motorcycles got in the way.
The Kennet is almost finished I'm waiting on a couple of deliveries to complete, some welding gas so the wheel guard can be fabricated, and a new motor capacitor as the old one is very badly dented, now I've left work there's no more access to the lovely Clarkson, so thought I'd better get my finger out.
The Myford saddle stop is something that's been on the list for ages been very useful in making the smaller parts for the others it's fabricated from odd bits that were to hand, the rear toolpost is GHT's design for the short Myford crosslide (ML7- R) and the Keats angle plate from College Engineering supplies. The rear toolpost still needs slotting for the parting tool, but nearly there.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 01/05/2020 18:08:32
|Thread: TEST THREAD|
Edited By Dave Wootton on 01/05/2020 06:29:38
|Thread: Lathe Refurbishment|
Very nice to see, looks like you've made a good job of a very worthwhile project and ended up with a very nice lathe, persistence pays off.
At least a few good things have come out of the present situation.
|Thread: Eagle 4-4-0 Main Horn Drawing Question|
As has already been stated the webs on the horns depend on whoever supplies the casting, if this is the 2 1/2" gauge Eagle, the 2 1/2" gauge association supplies castings at very reasonable prices. It would be very worthwhile for you to join the association the club magazine is worth the modest subscription on it's own, they are a friendly lot and very helpful ( I used to be membership secretary and the recruiting gene never leaves you!).
Also very worthwhile looking at John Baguley's website, to see great photo's and descriptions of the building of engines in this scale. His Helen Longish won the Curly bowl a few years ago, there is some inspiring stuff on there, I admit to pinching lots of his ideas.
There's a picture of my part built Horwich Crab in 2 1/2" gauge in my album, just retired so hoping to get on with finishing it now.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 25/04/2020 19:07:19
|Thread: Fantastic British engineering|
Is it a shame? Why? Beware nostalgia, taken neat it causes delusions
To S.O.D I made no mention of nostalgia ,or nostalgic sentiments in my post, I served my time in a very similar industry it was a hard environment, but it provided reasonably paid jobs to a great many people, skilled and unskilled. I personally wouldn't want to go back to those days.
But I do believe that it is a shame that so many companies that were large scale employers have closed, for whatever reason, a large scale concern such as Colchester's has a great impact on employment in it's surrounding area.
A great many people do not have the skills or ability to become computer programmers, or to work in hi tech industries, but they were perfectly able to hold down a reasonably skilled job in manufacturing. It is them that I feel sorry for in the workplace today.
Thanks for posting that Steve, absolutely fascinating, no wonder Colchester spares are expensive, they make them on gold plated machines!
What a shame that we don't produce these lathes in this country any more, makes you realise just how many engineering jobs have gone over the years, so much incredible skill wasted. As an apprentice I had to spend about six months in the inspection department, part of that on Talyrond testers, the first half dozen parts to be tested were interesting, then the rest of the batch of about 2000 turned up, absolutely bored to tears.
|Thread: Don Ashton|
I think that maybe the lack of comment is as Hopper says because of an unfamiliarity with Don's work, I would recommend anyone who is building or contemplating any steam locomotive or engine to look at Don's website and book. I have seen many questions asked about valve setting on various forums that could be answered by reference to Don's work.
I struggled with Rob Roy's valve setting for a very disappointingly long time (pre internet) and could not get it to run satisfactorily, reading Martin Evans and LBSC didn't help much. I saw Don's stevensons booklet at a M.E exhibition at Wembley , his simple jig made in an afternoon for setting the eccentrics ended weeks of frustration and probably prevented another unfinished chassis being up for sale.
The content does appear maths heavy at first, I am certainly no maths genius, don't let that put you off there is sound practical advice contained in all his works, removing uncertainty, no more trying to set return cranks with a pair of dividers, something I for one could never manage.
As Julian says Don was certainly a beacon of light, for me personally at any rate, if there was a system of donation to keep his website open I would be pleased to contribute.
Edited By Dave Wootton on 16/04/2020 06:31:20
Edited By Dave Wootton on 16/04/2020 06:31:50
Have a look at the Brightspark magneto's website, they have loads of info on magneto's on there and they have built there own magneto remagnetising machine. have used them in the past for mag spares and their external condenser conversion, very good to deal with.
They do offer a magneto remagnetising service at reasonable cost, I'm sure if you asked them nicely they would give you more information on their home built machine. The owner seems keen to encourage people to have a go at working on their own mags.
Warning you can lose hours looking at all the information on the site!
|Thread: Don Ashton|
I'm also very sorry to hear about Don's death, I never met him but his books and website have helped me enormously. A man of wide ranging talents who will be missed.
My thoughts are with his family.
|Thread: Boring tool|
Sorry to revive an old thread, but have just discovered that the drawings and castings for this, or a very similar design are available from Reeves.
|Thread: Query on Ajax locomotive and steaming ability|
I used to belong to a club which had two members who had built Ajax locos. One was named Ajax the other unnamed, one day the owner of the unnamed one returned to his locomotive to find neatly made nameplates stuck on it - Vim!
Perhaps you need to be of a certain age to get this.
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