Here is a list of all the postings bernard towers has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Are these Flexispeed accessories?|
Blimey Neil that was a long time ago, I’m a norwich boy and have a hard job remembering that!
Stationarysteam boys might like it,
|Thread: Centre Drill Leaves a “Pip” - Sometimes|
I’ve taken to using 3 mm carbide drill shanks with 3 facets ground at 45deg leaving a sharp point at the end, it gives you a lovely small divet for the drill bit. Cancer machines use this method for small holes and you should see the price of the bit or not.
|Thread: New Chuck won’t screw on|
All backplates that I have bought from non genuine suppliers have needed work!!!
|Thread: Lumps of aluminium and brass|
Find a local machine shop go with a couple of tenners in your pocket and you go home with headlights pointing skywards.
|Thread: Rotaform spin fixture collet ID competition|
Photo could be handy.
|Thread: Testing the Euro / IOSS|
|Thread: Lathe cover|
No covers use hydraulic oil as cutting oil problem disappears
|Thread: Milling on a Lathe with a Vertical Slide|
I’ve found that if you have to use through punches do not hold them at the end hold next to the material.
|Thread: Mystery micrometer|
The second photo looks like it could be set in tube Mike configuration.
|Thread: Bearing Location - Pulley or mounting block|
As a Peatol user I am interested to know the use of this. Personally I would have the pulley fixed to the shaft and the bearings fitted to the block with retaining caps/plates/screwed rings. If the block is bored with a hole clearance size for the shaft and a stepped bore for the bearing minus 5 thou screwed cover plates would do the job and make for ease of maintenance.
|Thread: Powder coating quality of finish|
Apparently it’s the time taken to heat (slowly) that has a big bearing on finish, a company round my way I use gets a finish like glass!
|Thread: Drill sharpening?|
After you have done your 4 facets put a secondary point angle in and your drills will last even longer!!
|Thread: Randa lathe missing back gear|
Out of interest flat drive belts are still made, they are made from a modern oil proof material and usually coloured green. Try transmission suppliers/ bearing suppliers like Hayley’s etc.
|Thread: Tool post height|
You could also mill the bottom inside edge from the toolholder, I believe they used to sell them already modified.
Why would you weaken the tip holder?
|Thread: advice old British motorcycle|
Best of luck by the way you can't beat the grin factor.
Spares are available for most old brit bikes BSA, Norton,Triumph Velocette and AJS seem the best catered for. A lot of the spares are cottage industry made, there is a lot less cheap foreign parts about now, they have killed themselves off by their reputation. I myself make chronometric internals and have done for 30 years thought it would die off before me but now I'm not so sure. Lockdown passed me by as so many people got round to that bike that had bee in there for 20 plus years. personally i would recommend 12v electrics and electronic ignition.
|Thread: Earthing Issue on new machine|
I bought a lovely piece of equipment from a reputable american supplier, nicely finished, painted etc. but wouldn't power up and on inspection found that the lovely paint finish was also a lovely HR for the earth conn. Easy fix but just proves that a 4 figure priced piece of equipment was never powered up on completion, which they confirmed, they only test the component parts before assembly!!!!
|Thread: Universal thread cutting|
If only short lengths are screwcut why not use 33 and 34 tooth wheels on the output after the tumbler, I thought this was pretty standard practice?
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