Here is a list of all the postings A Smith has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Home built trailer|
Two general purpose trailers and three dinghy trailers built over the last forty years. I only have one g.p. trailer now but I believe all the others are still in use. Quite a lot of overthinking above. How would anyone know whether your privately built, lightweight trailer for taking stuff to the tip is new or refurbished? The new trailer would just join the enormous fleet of privately built bike, boat, camping, general purpose etc. trailers that already exists. I think the best advice posted above is the suggestion to check with the tip on the maximum size of trailer that they will accept.
|Thread: Beamish Museum|
Went to Beamish last autumn, thoroughly recommended. (Carlisle/Sellafield/Barrow/Giggleswick/Settle/ Carlisle by rail the previous day. NYMR the day after Beamish). All good.
|Thread: Illegal CD copy|
Careful, Fred's got an army you know...……...
|Thread: Motorcycle 'blipping'...|
I have a 1960 Matchless G3 (ex AFS) that has covered 56000 miles on the original Amal 375 Monobloc carburettor. No air filter was fitted on this model. It starts easily & runs well. It does require a rebore, new valves and guides. Doing that now.
Unfortunately, there is a continuing supply of chimps that fit loud exhausts & blip throttles, Darwin keeps their numbers in check, at least to some extent.
|Thread: Machine moving recommendations.|
There is a firm in West Yorkshire called Landylift who do this sort of thing. They advertise on the homeworksho.org.uk site. email@example.com I've never used them, so unable to advise further.
|Thread: A visit to Manchester Sci and Eng Museum|
It is a disease. The medical description I, "Arts based degree-ism". Publicly owned museums are now run by professional curators who, having an arts degree, have no interest in engineering and assume that the entire general public have the same outlook.
I was recently at the Black Country Living Museum, all the cars and bikes, especially the bikes, are crammed into small spaces where it is almost impossible to look at them. The curator is, "more interested in the interpretation of history, rather than artefacts", or so I was informed.
It will soon be the case that private museums, run by enthusiastic volunteers, will be the only ones that appeal to those interested in engineering and technology.
|Thread: Refitting belts on Myford Tri Leva lathe|
I've owned a Tri Leva since the mid eighties and have changed the belts about every five or six years. Once you get the hang of the adjustment process, it all works well. The speed selection levers double as clutches so stopping, starting and speed changing (between the three speeds available) is almost instant. Engaging & dis-engaging the back gear is a bit of a pain, it's more difficult to raise the spindle/ belt cover on a Tri Leva, so it's easier to leave it in position and just use the cover behind the bearing as Nottingham intended.). I have an Allen key with a shortened business end, just for this purpose.
It is important to tension the motor drive belt first because that will affect the distance between the three drive pulleys and the spindle. I now use one of the segmented, cogged belts & it has been completely satisfactory. To get the right grip, this belt should be tensioned so that there is no slack but it's not tight enough to pull the driving (top) spindle down appreciably.
Having done this, with the other three belts slackened right off, adjust the tension of each belt until it just grips. This may require a lot less tension than you expect. The belt tension should be just about discernible as the speed selection lever is pulled down. If it slips when you're taking a normal cut, just tweak it up slightly.
With the motor running and with all three levers right up, the main spindle (mandrel to some) should not revolve at all.
Hope this helps.
|Thread: Folding Bike design & build|
What an excellent piece of work!
|Thread: Using a propane cylinder for partable compressed air.|
When testing a diving air cylinder with air, with the cylinder in a pit, the test adaptor failed and was expelled at high speed, retained only by the long hose used to connect the air supply. The adaptor hit the leg of a very robust cast iron bench and cracked the leg. The remains of the adaptor looked like it had been through a hydraulic press. I was about 30 or so yards away and thought that a bomb had exploded. The individual conducting the test wasn't great on thread forms and had found an adaptor that "fitted".
I pressure test things as part of my professional life (40 years on from the above) and I would not consider re-purposing a gas cylinder for industrial use. At home? I would only consider it if I could hydrostatically test it to at least twice the working pressure. Darwin rules OK.
|Thread: Simple WorkshopTips|
Magnets are great for collecting steel swarf -as mentioned above. Like many others, I put the magnet inside a plastic bag that can be turned inside out to remove the bits without them sticking to the magnet.
More of a health & safety thing - wear gloves when MIG welding, you can sunburn the back of your supporting hand if you don't - guess how I know!
|Thread: Hemingway Dynamic Toolpost Grinder|
Really interesting. Please keep posting.
|Thread: Gatwick Drone 'Attack'|
I seem to remember that in ME a few months ago, someone, Geoff Theasby?, suggested a design for an EMI projector to deal with these things.......
|Thread: How would this lathe tool be used?|
I see that vacant Moderator/Troll position left by the late lamented JS has now been filled. Good Work!
|Thread: Parting off - again, sorry|
I use a 2mm inserted tip parting off tool with great success on my Myford ML7. It is fitted in a quick change tool holder. I used to struggle with parting off, things improved when I discovered the carriage lock! and again, years later, when I purchased the inserted tip tool from JB tools. I have a rear toolpost but haven't felt the need to use it, as yet.
|Thread: Please help identify these tools|
|Thread: Myford Tri-Leva Oils|
For my Tri-Leva, I use the Castrol H32 equivalent, "Hyspin" I think. Cromwell tools sell it in 5l containers. Probably about £15 - 20 by now. 5l lasts many years at the rate I use it, so not up to date on prices.
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
Just watched Bob Rodgerson's video of his miniature aero engine. Very impressed.
Splitting this thread is a retrograde step, in my opinion. I think that the new thread will die fairly quickly. As for the complainers who don't want to read about beekeeping or astronomy - if you don't like it, don't read it. If slow downloading is your problem, that's just one of life's many frustrations, don't take it out on others.
Edited By A Smith on 04/10/2015 16:14:17
|Thread: 2" minnie build|
Really interesting, I like to see projects in progress. Please keep posting.
|Thread: colloidal graphite|
The build up of graphite in the big-end of a motorcycle crankshaft was probably a deliberate mis-direction by people that didn't sell graphied oil. Having drilled out the deposits from several Triumph crankshaft big-end galleries, my belief is that the build up consists of carbon combustion products. (The process involves, unscrewing the threaded plug, usually started with an impact driver, drilling into the deposit in the removable inner tube to make room for a coarse tap, winding the tap in as far as possable and then using the thread cut as a purchase to jack the tube out. Then all that remains is to remove the hardened deposit that was around the outside of the tube..... and a trip to the grankshaft grinder!)
The introduction of an oil filter on the later Meriden Triumphs, when it happened 1969/70 ish, was about 30 or 40 years overdue.
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