Here is a list of all the postings Pat Bravery has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Minilathe/Mill motors|
I think that you will find that the motors are 180v DC, I stand to be corrected though. The motors are the same but the boards are different to accommodate the different voltage supplies. Regards Pat
Edited By Pat Bravery on 28/03/2020 13:00:19
|Thread: ME in deepest Norfolk|
Hi Shaun, Where in Norfolk are you? I am in the NR29 area and always interested in meeting like minded model engineers. Regards Pat
|Thread: Bandsaw woes.|
I believe that you are picking up small bits of aluminium in the teeth of the blade causing the problem, when the clunking starts stop the saw and look closely at the teeth and you will see chips of ally stuck there. I had the same experience and once you have cleared the teeth you are back to normal. Regards Pat
|Thread: Hi from darkest Norfolk|
Hi Derek,What part of Norfolk? I live in the NR29 area. Regards Pat
|Thread: Aldi Metal Bandsaw|
Hi Bill, I just printed off the email receipt and took it to my local Aldi where they issued the refund without any problem at all, it appeared in my account the next day. Regards Pat
Did you read the ‘destruction’ manual? If it says cut dry it probably means cut dry.
At the risk of making myself look stupid, where in the instructions does it say to use the saw dry? I have read it a few times and I can't see it but then I am getting on a bit. Regards Pat
Hi, I have dug out the manual and I can't see any mention of the use of cutting oil, I always have used a lubricant when doing any cutting on machinery and surely that is standard workshop practice. Is it a normal practice to cut dry on bandsaws? Regards Pat
I have had to return my Aldi bandsaw today as it kept throwing the saw blade, I checked it out and the rubber tyres on the drive wheels had started to disintegrate. It was probably caused by using thin oil as a lubricant when making cuts, has anyone else experienced this? I have always used this method so I will try using the saw dry when the new one arrives. I have to say that Aldi were very good and the refund was no problem at all. Regards Pat
I bought one last year and I have found it very good. I had to do some minor tweeks and now can cut very thin slices of steel. There are a few comments about the vice not holding tightly enough, I have found my one to be fine and it will cut through 127mm which is about 5 inches. Regards Pat
|Thread: Holbrook Lathe Information Please|
I am trying to get information on a Holbrook lathe, on the brass speed data plate is Model SC2, I can find no reference to that model on either the Holbrook website or 'lathes.uk' site. The lathe is a gap bed type and I am afraid that the photo's are not the best in the world but hopefully someone might recognise it. Thanks for looking, Pat
|Thread: Chester Machine Tools Forum|
Hi John, I contacted Chester Tools some time ago about the missing forum and was told that they no longer support it. I did contribute some mods regarding the Chester 16v mill to the forum so if I can be of any help then feel free to use the private message facility. My mods concerned moving the up & down handle from the vertical to horizontal and making a fine quill adjuster and fitting a motor to the longitude axis, I also fitted a cooling fan to the motor. Hope that this helps, regards Pat
|Thread: Mystery Bamford engine|
I have removed the capacitor so that I could match it up but I have now decided to get the CO1 from Brightspark which seems to be the best way forward. The magnet is firmly clamped on my metal top bench and I have cleaned everything ready for assembly. Thanks all for your help and I will post the results of my labours good or bad in a few weeks. Regards Pat
I will probably fit the later type of condenser either a CO1 or CO2 which fit on the points plate depending on the rotation which I need to work out. The internals came apart fairly easily and it has been a very interesting journey. Thank you so much for all of your help. Best regards Pat
Following on I have just found the Brightspark page which shows how to do the job chapter and verse, I will try to digest it and report back on the results. Thank you all for your help and I do feel that I have taken up a disproportionate amount of your good nature. Best regards Pat
Thanks for all the replies. I have got the armature out and still can't see an obvious capacitor, I have taken photo's and the first one shows a small brown cylindrical object with a wire from the winding going into it, if it is I can't see how to remove it. Help! Regards Pat
Where would the condenser be? there is not one on the points plate where I would expect to see one, I have not completely stripped it down. I am on a big learning curve here. Thanks for everything, I will have another look tomorrow. Regards Pat
Thank you for that information, there must be a short elsewhere in the points. I am recalling my Morris minor days when the two sides of the points were insulated from each other when the points opened to cause the coil to energise, I am assuming that it is the same with a magneto. Regards Pat
Hi Martin, Thanks for your reply, I did a continuity test across the points and there is still a circuit when the points are parted so there appears to be an insulation fault there. I have not looked beyond the distributor cap and points yet but there does not seem to be a condenser fitted anywhere near the points. I think that the reality of it is that it will wind up as a static display but I would like to get it running. Regards Pat
I have removed the magneto and stripped the points and bakelite cap. The terminal screws were seized and corroded and I replaced the HT links as there was no continuity probably because of the corrosion and reassembled it. I fitted a new sparkplug which I secured against the magneto body and spun it with a cordless drill, hey presto a beautiful spark, sadly it soon faded and now there is the faintest of sparks. I will strip it again tomorrow just in case I have missed something. The magneto is a Lucas GJ4 which was fitted to tractors as Martin suggested. The easy answer is to get the correct magneto but the museum relies on volunteers and donations so the cash is just not there to fully restore the engine, our aim is just to get it running as an exhibit. I have attached photo's. Regards Pat
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