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Member postings for Colin Heseltine

Here is a list of all the postings Colin Heseltine has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020
27/07/2020 18:34:57

Fitted Quill DRO to my Gate PBM-2000 mill.

I had been given the brackets for a quill DRO of sorts when I purchased my mill. It was a bit Heath Robinson and I could not see a neat way to fit it to my machine and put it to one side. It had a good Mitutoyo scale with it.

I looked at the Mill Star quill DRO sold by Machine-DRO and had a chat with them and purchased just the bracket off them and made up the remaining bits I needed.

z-quill-dro.jpg

I trimmed the original scaled and refitted it and was able to set it correctly on zero.

Quite pleased with how it works. Just have to remember to switch it off.

Next job is to fit DRO to the knee.

Colin

Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2020
23/07/2020 19:21:18

Rod,

That is very nice work. I'm intrigued by the frets are they movable>

Colin

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020
22/07/2020 12:25:31

Had a hard drive failure in my NAS drive. Luckily having set it up as a three x 3TB drive RAID5 with a 3TB hot swap spare, it carried on working but will take around 24hours to rebuild itself. If I have a drive failure now will lose all data. As is usual in these cases the drive that has failed is obsolete, but been informed by manufacturer tech support that any 3TB SATA 7200rpm drive will be okay. New Toshiba drive now on order for delivery tomorrow.

I run two RAID5 NAS drives and one copies files to the other, they are both on a UPS.

Fingers crossed the replacement arrives okay and works okay.

Colin

Thread: Welding precautions
20/07/2020 21:44:26

Many moons ago I had removed fuel tank from a mini in order to weld up the bodywork prior to fitting a new rear subframe. Everything was completed, subframe back in, tank back in and all plumbed up and running great. Whilst car was over the pit I had a quick look round the front wheel arches and found a hole in the nearside arch near where it met the floor.

Front wheel off, out came the carpet, scraped off the underseal and proceeded to weld up said hole. Suddenly heard a whooshing noise and turned to see petrol running from somewhere by the tank into the pit. It was a nice stream of fire with a gradually expanding pool of fire on the pit floor. For some reason, and I cannot remember why I did not have an extinguisher. I just knew I had to put the fire out.

I had what was in reality a very stupid idea. I grabbed a load of rags I had lying around, hugged them to my stomach and jumped in the pit straight into the middle of the fire, landing on my stomach, basically a belly flop. My pit was a shallow one where you sat on a bench rather than standing up.

I frightened the fire so much that it blew out. I think I must have watched the John Wayne Hellfighters film a short while earlier where they put out fires by blowing explosives in them.

Main thing the fire was out even if my clothes were a little singed.

I bought a large 5Kg BCF extinguisher the next day.

This extinguisher came in very handy a few years later when I had a major equipment malfunction whilst welding. I was using a gas fluxer to provide liquid flux whilst brazing. I had used this for 4 or 5 years making suspension for a formula ford racing car or myself and others. I also used an economiser to control the oxygen and acetylene feed. This is basically a lever operated valve, when you want to use the torch lift it off the valve and then touch the pilot flame and get on with the job. I had turned gases on, lit pilot flame and opened the valve on the gas fluxer.

The screw holding the valve chose that moment to shear, the valve flew out the top along with 5 pints of extremely flammable flux, which immediately vapourized and met the pilot flame. This was followed by a great big explosion. I caught fire from the waist up, my dog who was in the garage with me did a runner out the back door. Up and over garage door folded outwards and flat garage roof lifted about a foot and dropped back down. Any paper in workshop was on fire, all plastic wrapped stuff was shrink wrapped and there were fires burning all over the place (there was at least 10 litres of cellulose paint in there, which very luckily did not catch fire, else it would have been a different story indeed). All the paintwork on doors and windows looked as though and old fashioned paint blowtorch had been used on them, all black and bubbled.

Was able to roll down lawn to put my fires out and then saw to the fires in garage before hijacking a passing motorist to take me to hospital. I can still picture the scene now 35 years later if I close my eyes, everything on fire all round me. The Fire Brigade were called by hospital but there was noting to do, but they did take the equipment away to find out why it had failed, they could not see any reason why the screw had sheared. I had a few funny looks a work two days later going in covered in burns.

It was my dads garage so few weeks later I had to fix the results and do some painting, repairs etc. At least still here to tell the tale and can laugh about it now. My friends down at the local garage were very shocked as they knew how well I looked after my tools and equipment, compared to some of them who just dropped stuff on floors and did not always look after stuff.

Colin

Thread: Fitting Align Power Feed on Z-Axis - Gate PBM2000
19/07/2020 16:21:36

Chris, I had quick look at machine-fro and they do a stand-alone single display head at around £90. Obviously need the read head and mag strip to go with this. So not exactly cheap. Hopefully I’ve just sold one of my flypresses which will pay for it.

you are welcome to come and have a look.

Clogs,

I have a somewhat suspect shoulder joint and this should save a lot of winding. Pleased with it and can recommend it.

colin

19/07/2020 15:44:41

Surprised there were no comments or thoughts after 102 viewings.

Well its all in and working. My long term engineer colleague recommended not using the 5mm roll pin to secure the feed screw shaft, extension shaft and the castellated nut together, but to use a taper pin. Several reasons for this. The difficulty in removing roll pins especially if they have sheared in place and secondary reason is they are a damn sight easier to remove if need to make alterations. He had suitable taper pin and reamer, and in fact gave me the reamer and another slightly bigger diameter one. Very careful drilling out the base diameter 2.5mm and reamed and tested and reamed and tested till pin went into the required depth.

z-axisfinished.jpg

Next couple of tasks will be to fit a digital scale type DRO to the quill, and in fact was given a homebrewed Bridgeport Mitutoyo version with the machine. Just needs some modifications.

Will also fit a knee DRO to keep track of raising and lowering the knee.

Colin

15/07/2020 20:25:56

I bought an Align Z-Axis power feed several months ago to fit to my Gate PBM-2000 milling machine. This is a Taiwanese copy of a Bridgeport mill. As is normal the fitting instructions for these leave a little to be desired. The booklet covers fitting all thee axis's. The page for Z-Axis is just a series of small schematics with some notes.

instructionsres.jpg

Start by removing the castellated assembly on the end of the shaft. This requires some leverage, I unscrewed the knurled locknut on the graduated dial and this move it off far enough for me to tap off the rest of the way.

Then removed the graduated dial and its associated shims and them the bearing retaining flange (three M6 caphead bolts). The sleeve it is fitted to is on a standard right hard thread on the knee feedscew. Would it come undone. Not a cat in hells chance. In the end had to resort to using the old and new knurled nuts locked together as a pair using to pairs of stillsons and then judicious use of small nozzle on the oxyacetylene welding kit to warm it up and hopefully expand it enough to remove. Had to keep the two knurled nuts together with two pairs of stillsons and hit the rear pair of stillsons with copper mallet firmly. Hurrah it finally cracked loose.

img_7830 (1).jpg

The picture above shows the sleeve minus the graduated dial and castellated nut. The bearing retainer is the new one. This was reassembed just for this photo.

When cooled down fitted the new extension shaft to the feedscrew running it right up against the bearing tightened it up using the castellated nut and knee winding handle and copper mallet to tap it tight. Fitted the bearing flange ensuring the two tapped holes to mount the power feed were uppermost.

img_7831 (1).jpg

Bearing retaining flange fitted.

img_7833 (1).jpg

Shims located on shaft. (as discussed later)

img_7834 (1).jpg

Extension shaft being tightened into place.

img_7836 (1).jpg

Power Feed unit bolted into place.

Bolted the Power Feed unit to the flange and then slid the brass gear on the shaft. Played around with a couple of shims to get backlash between the two gears to suitable state and then did up the castellated nut. It all locked up solid. As the castellated nut was being done up it pushed the gear and any shims that were being used again the roller bearing and then the main casting of the power feed. This obviously locked everything all up solid. On further investigation it transpired that the shoulder on the extension shaft (that the gear/shims) should butt up against was not protruding out of the roller bearing far enough to stop the brass gear pushing in too far.

img_7837 (1).jpg

I needed to move the extension shaft a very small amount away from the bearings in pushed against. The only way I could see to do this was to take several of the shims which would normally be used between the gear and shoulder and put them on the main feedscrew and then refit the extension shaft. After a number of attempted with different shim thicknesses, 46 thou of shim was enough to get the should on the extension shaft to protrude out of the roller bearing enough that when brass gear and castellated nut refitted it would not lockup solid and still had a tiny amount of backlash.

This took a number of iterations to get to this point. Each time the extension shaft had to be locked firmly in place, then the whole thing assembled and the castellated nut done up firmly. Doing it up was the easy bit, undoing it again was a real pain in the ass. The only way I could hold the extension shaft firmly enough to crack the castellated nut and then the extension shaft of the feedscrew was to wrap the end on the shaft with gaffer tape and then hold in mole grips, followed by sharp tap of the copper mallet.

I think I am happy with the amount of backlash but before I drill the castellated nut, extension shaft and feedscrew for the 5mm rollpin which locks it all together I wanted to see if anyone on this forum could see a better way or any issue with what I have done.

Colin

Thread: Stent T&C Refurb (also need Wiring Help)
16/06/2020 08:53:56

Amazing how different they all look. You look well tooled up for it.

Colin

Thread: Milling power feed
15/06/2020 09:53:51

ChrisB,

PM me your email address and i will send the Excel spreadsheet to you.

Colin

Thread: Stent T&C Refurb (also need Wiring Help)
15/06/2020 09:48:23

.NVR switch and a DPDT switch without centre off will be ordered asap. Thank you for your helpful comments.

Colin

Thread: Milling power feed
14/06/2020 20:45:14

Another +1 for the Steve Ward controller. Just finished building one and used it it anger over last week to produce graduated scales for Stent Tool and Cutter grinder I have been tidying. I bought the ready built and tested circuit board and the built and pretested keyboard. Had fun drilling the case lid for all the buttons. Have a spreadsheet with the co-ordinates for a DRO to produce if wanted.

Colin

Thread: Stent T&C Refurb (also need Wiring Help)
14/06/2020 20:25:34

Possibly answering my own question here, but would still like some confirmation.

I think I need a Double Pole Double Throw Toggle switch with a centre off position rated for 250v and I would guess about 5 amps.

Would connect Z1 to one input and Z2 to the other input. With the switch set to position 1 the output from Z1 would go to U2 and the output from Z2 would go to 02. This would give anticlockwise running.

Switching to the centre position would break the connections. Moving switch to position 2 would connect Z1 to 02 and Z2 to U2. This would now run the motor in clockwise direction.

I noticed in the motor schematic it shows Live to U1 and Neutral to U2. My motor is set to reverse of this but I guess this does not matter too much??

I have looked on RS Components but not seen a suitable DPDT switch.  CPC Farnell Have a Toggle Switch, Metal Lever, DPDT, ON-OFF-ON, 10A   Part No SW02434 which I think would be ok.

My other thoughts would be that it would pay to fit a NVR switch on the incoming supply.

Colin

Edited By Colin Heseltine on 14/06/2020 20:37:29

14/06/2020 17:31:55

I bought a second hand Stent T&C many years ago and finally during lockdown have had chance to strip and clean it, paint it and do a few minor mods.

As obtained although the handles/wheels were graduated but the main pillar base, table end clamps nor spindle mounting were graduated. I wanted to get this done.

I had recently completed a Division Controller and using this in conjunction with a Hemingway Graduating Tool was able to do the graduations. Had to make several mods to the graduating tool to enable it to be used on the milling machine.

hem4.jpg

hem3.jpg

hem5.jpg

stentrefurb1.jpg

I still have to make a better grinding wheel guard than that which the machine came with. When did a test run I realised that grinding wheel is running in a clockwise direction and thus blasting the sparks up at my face.

I would like to make the to be able to run either clockwise or anticlockwise. I have shown below the motor plate and then the inside connections to the motor and also the wiring schematic from the motor. I have followed this with a hand drawn layout showing the various cables and colours.

stentmotorplate.jpg

stentmotorterminals.jpg

stentmotorschematic.jpg

stentmotorwiring.jpgAs I understand it I can run the motor in either direction by moving the two links plates; currently Z1 to U2 and Z2 to 02 to a revised state of Z1 - 02 and U2 - Z2.

I want to be able to do this by means of a 3 position switch, Left=Anticlock, Centre=Off, right = Clockwise.

Can some of you considerably more expert members please advise on type of switch and how to route the cables. This would be greatly appreciated. I do not have a problem doing the wiring I just do not want to screw it up and blow up a nice motor..

If any of you fine gentlemen have a Stent T&C in your workshops I would be interested in knowing what size grinding wheels you use and how far they reach towards the table. In the picture I have shown of the Stent with some of its accessories you will see a bracket on the right hand side of the picture to the right of the pair of castings (next on the list to machine) do you have any idea what this is. It does not appear to relate to any of the drawings in the plans but could possibly be for putting a radius on a cutter?

Many Thanks

Colin

Thread: Keeping Shop clean
07/06/2020 09:24:39

I vacuum around mill and lathe, sometimes after each step/action on a job. A) to try and prevent going in house when forget to swap shoes, and B) so that the cats who wander around garage/workshop do not get it in their paws.

Colin

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020
06/06/2020 20:36:57

Peter,

Yes I did 3D print them. Found lots on Thingiverse and other odd sites but nothing that would suit my requirements. I then found a file someone had created with OpenSCAD which is parameter driven. I was able to alter length and all the sizes of the electrical connection box and lid. Worked brilliantly.
Colin

06/06/2020 18:15:59

Finally got round to using the World of Ward Division Controller I recently finished. Found one minor issue in that if the worm gear in rotary table is pulled right over tight into the gear the stepper throws a wobbly. This was a bit odd at first as the division controller appeared to hang up and would not let any settings be altered or go back to menu and also would not drive the rotary table. I took division controller off stepper motor and it all worked okay and all menus and settings could be changed as required. I reconnected it all and put ink mark on back of stepper motor spindle and then could see it was not turning. Backed off worm completely and all worked okay. Re-engaged the worm gear just a gnats whisker off previous position and all okay.

I want to graduate the dial on the base of the spindle pillar on Stent Tool and Cutter Grinder. I am giving it the refurb it should have had when first obtained it. I have a Hemingway graduating tool and not having means of dividing on the lathe (at present) decided to set it up on the mill table and utilise the Division Controller. Spent some time trying to work out how to hold the graduating tool in such a way that could alter its height and horizontal position. Remembered I had a Myford Milling attachment that came with my lathe and had never used it. Had a quick think and machined up a 90 degree bracket to hold the graduating tool. Came to set it up and realised I had not thought the exercise through properly. Found I could mount the graduating tool but it would be 90 degrees out. Drilled few more holes in right angle bracket, tapped couple of extra 4BA holes in the rear of the graduating tool and eventually managed to get a solid set up. It may look a bit Heath Robinson but it worked.

hem4.jpg

hem2.jpg

hem3.jpg

hem1.jpg

Put 2 and 10 degree markings for 90 degrees either side of centre position.

I now need to make a carrier for the graduating tool to hold it stationary in the mill spindle and parallel to the X-axis so as to be able to graduate the table clamps on the Stent.

Started to paint the base and pillar of the Stent so can begin re-assembly.

Colin

Thread: Using Counterbores
04/06/2020 23:28:20

Michael,

Thank you for that link. Very useful information.

Colin

04/06/2020 20:24:51

I am intending to counterbore two holes which will have M5 caphead bolts located in them. The holes are drilled M5 and the bolt fits nicely. I have a set of very good quality counterbores with the usual range of sizes and several individual counterbores.

The issue I have is that the locating spigot on all the counterbores are larger than I would have expected. i.e I would have expected the M5 counterbore to have a 5mm dia spigot but it is around 5.23mm. Is this 5.23mm diameter the correct sized clearance hole for M5.

Colin

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020
03/06/2020 19:45:23

Had a couple of hours long lesson on using my new Tig welder. Went straight onto welding 1.5mm aluminium sheet. Gradually got the hang of doing runs along the sheet. Then tried to join two pieces with overlap and butt welds. Not very pretty at all at the present. Going to need lots and lots of practice.

Colin

Thread: Low cost forge blower
02/06/2020 22:36:46

Brilliant video and amazing old skills. Sent me off down a wormhole looking at other Primitive Skills videos.

Well worth watching

Colin

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