Here is a list of all the postings Colin Heseltine has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Milk container top colours|
I'm not sure it helps the colour blind. I'm Red/Green colour blind as are something like 20% of the male population. Many are the times I've ben told off by other half for getting Green not Red or vice versa. We now stick to just one version - Red. Which 9 times out of 10 I now get correct.
|Thread: Drill bit storage|
I like that idea for your taper shank drills. I just need to sharpen lots of my taper shank drills. Waiting for a friend of mine to make the taper shank adaptors to use with his Brierley drill grinder. Will then have between 60 and 80 drills to sharpen.
PS if anyone has the dimensions for the taper shank adaptors it would be appreciated.
|Thread: Colchester Triumph 2000 - Topslide Leadscrew Threadform|
The toolbit has been ground to match the feedscrew. I was not intending to get a tap to finish.
I have just read a 2019 thread on this site, discussing someones issues with a Boxford feedscrew. I see that it was commented that many manufacturers used imperial sized leadscrews with ACME threadform and metric pitches.
Does not make it easy.
That's a fair point. The play seems pretty consistent along the full length of the leadscrew. The leadscrew thread looks pretty good along its length and the form looks quite defined, as opposed to being worn away.
A quick question.
I am in need of a new topslide nut and this is going to be made by a friend on his Hardinge lathe as we need the existing leadscrew to test the nut. I have checked with Colchester Spares and the leadscrew is 5/8" diameter (0.625" ) and has a 2.5 pitch metric thread. I am trying to ascertain whether this is a 29 degree Imperial threadform or a 30 degree Metric threadform. None of the threadgauge sets we have possess a 2.5 pitch threadform they all go from 2 pitch to 3 pitch. It is very hard to see a 1 degree difference. Can anyone confirm, one way or another.
Edited By Colin Heseltine on 07/05/2022 21:10:08
Edited By Colin Heseltine on 07/05/2022 21:10:29
|Thread: Question Re Camlock Chuck Fixings|
Thanks for the responses. I had hoped to put my 6" Griptru chuck onto the D1-6 backplate. When I tried to remove what I thought was the L0 backplate, I very quickly found that it was an integral part of the chuck. Oh well, that is another chuck I need to try and sell along with my Burnerd Multisize collet chuck.
I have recently swapped out my Colchester Student lathe with L0 chuck fixing and replaced it with a Colchester Triumph 2000 which has D1-6 chuck mount on the spindle. I have the standard 12" 4 jaw, and 8" 3 jaw chucks as well as a Burnerd Multisize chuck.
I had a 6" Burnerd GripTru chuck on the Student which has a backplate with the L0 fixing. I wish to be able to use this on the new lathe and so need to replace the L0 backplate with a D1-6 camlock backplate. I have been looking on Ebay and there are quite a few D1-6 camlock backplates available for chucks around the 6" to 8" diameter range but they all appear to only have 3 camlock pins rather that the full 6. Can a 3 pin fixed chuck work as safely as a 6 pin mounted one? The only 6 pin one I can see on the market at a reasonable price is that marketed by RDG, although that ideally needs turning down from the supplied 200mm to be closer to the required 6" diameter.
|Thread: Need advice on clearing Dads shed|
The Cowells ME90 lathe which can be seen on RH edge on second picture could be anything from £650 to £1200 depending on accessories with it.
|Thread: Colchestr Triumph 2000 - Apron Leaking Oil|
Just checked and EPDM rubber is not compatible with oil so will need to look for some good old brown paper to make gasket or look for some thin cork gasket material.
I have the plate off now. They definitely do nothing now. They are just in the tapped holes with no sealant or anything. There is a very thin paper gasket but this had been replaced and then coated in silicon goo.
I have some sheets of 1/16" rubber sheet as used for flat roof's. I think I will make new gasket out of this and ensure that the 4 extra holes have sealing washers and a bit of silicon to seal them completely.
I have just become owner of a Colchester Triumph 2000 lathe. The oil level in the apron was low so topped it up to the correct level. After 2 days it was down to a low level. There should be a gasket between the apron and the bottom plate. At first glance I cannot see one, only possible remnants of what was possibly a silicon gasket. I have managed to take a photo and from the look of it it does not have the original apron base. There is a perimeter of bolts and then two odd pairs of bolts/screws. From what I can see of the drawings in the manual there is not as far as I can ascertain anything to be fixed to the bottom plate. Has any one got the same model of lathe and can take a look at the apron base and see if these extra screws are present. I am wondering if that was a piece of plate that had a couple of unwanted holes and the screws were used to seal them up.
It might be worth making a new plate from 3/16" or 1/4" aluminium plate and make a proper gasket.
It would be nice to know if these extra holes perform a function prior to removing the base plate.
See picture below:
|Thread: What Did you do Today 2022|
Recently obtained a nice Hauser 12" Rotary table
I wanted to use a chuck with this so a visit to Rotagrip and came away with a nice Pratt Burnard 125mm 3 jaw chuck. In order to do fit this I required a suitable faceplate and I could not find any of our normal suppliers with suitable unit. They were all to small to be able to bolt to 'T' nuts fitted in the table slots and also they only appeared to come with 2MT locating tapers whereas I needed a 20mm parallel spigot.
I needed to make my own and M-Machine had a nice piece on SG iron 180mm dia and 24mm thick (ground both sides) at what I felt was a reasonable price.
This was slung in the big 4 jaw chuck on the Colchester, centred and then faced. I decided to use a tangential tool holder to machine the cast iron and took the initial face cut under power without any problems. On the second cut (0.5mm) after a minute or so I heard the sound of the cut change and noticed that the side of the piece of HSS steel was blue and had just suddenly worn away. All suggestions as to why this would have happened would be appreciated.
I switched to a indexable tipped tool and had no further issues.
I roughed out the spigot to around 3.8 mm high and 100mm dia. Then crept up to to the nominal 95mm diameter. Then I took several passes until the chuck would just ease onto the register, this was at 94.97mm. Then took a further 2 thou cut of the face and the slowest speed i could set on the powered cross-feed.
Finished off by turning the perimeter sticking out of the jaws down to 180mm and put a 45 degree chamfer on the corner.
The chuck fits nicely.
Next job is to drill and tap the fixing holes.
I have had several ideas on how to machine the reverse face , but am open to suggestions/improvements.
1) Fit Burnerd Multisize chuck to the Colchester fitted with the largest collet suitable. Chuck up a piece of bar (that will pass through the chuck completely) and then true it up and centre the end. Due to the amount of stick-out I guess it would be wise to use a tailstock revolving centre for additional support. Clamp the new chuck (with faceplate fitted) to the bar, and then face off and produce the 20mm dia spigot which will need to to be around 15mm long.
2)Leave the big 4 jaw chuck mounted on the lathe, remove the jaws from the new chuck (still with faceplate fitted) and insert it into the 4 jaw chuck, center/true it up, and then face off and produce the 20mm dia spigot.
My initial thought is option 1 would be the best.
|Thread: Converting .STL or .STP Files Back to a Drawing|
Thanks for the help,
Martin, I take your point. The gcode is for additive machining as opposed to subtractive machining.
Jason, When the .stp is opened in Alibre should it be dimensioned or does it lose the dimensions. f they are present somewhere how do I get them to display.
Basically what I want to end up with is a dimensioned 2D drawing I can give to a colleague for him to produce the item on his CNC mill.
If I try the F360 route will that produce a CAM file that can be used/recognised by any CNC milling machine.
Is it possible to convert .stl or .stp files back to a proper 2D drawing with dimensions. I have used an online converter which takes in a .stl and produces .dwf or .dxf files. I want to get back to a .dwg that I can view and print out using either Alibre Atom 3D or possibly Turbocad 2019.
The other thought is can the .gcode used to produce a 3D print be used in any way on a CNC milling machine.
|Thread: Lenz LPA 1s Boring Head|
Just a quick addendum to this post. The arbor I removed appears to be an Int-40 not a 30.
|Thread: I am getting shorter - how about you.|
I also have had ankylosing spondulitis since I was 24 (almost 72 now) and two knackered knees. I have maybe lost 1/2" in height at the max. Luckily I can still get into diving drysuits and wetsuits and also can slither into/climb out of my Caterham 7 car. Crawling under the house floor is a little (LOT) more uncomfortable now, but having just chatted to my plumber It looks as though I am going to have to remove all the double layers of pipe insulation of the underfloor central heating pipework (9 radiators) to find a slow leak. Not looking forward to doing this. This is likely to take several days to remove and replace.
|Thread: Cowells 90ME 14x1.5 backplate question|
Out of interest can anyone put approximate dates to serial numbers.
My Cowells is 1524.
|Thread: Computer help required|
Do you shut your machine down after every use? If so it is possible that the computer never actually gets enough time to finish downloading and installing all of its updates. So then every time you power it on it is downloading and trying to do updates, this can kill your performance. It may well pay to leave the machine powered up overnight to enable any required updates to complete.
|Thread: Should I scrap this reel of filament?|
I have had my Prusa I3 Mk 3 for around 3 years. It has not been very heavily used at all. It even has the original spool of filament. I have had no issues printing using this spool. I did 4 8.5hr prints around 2 weeks ago and they came out with no issues, no breaking filament or anything. I am using the originally supplied Prusa filament. The reel is still wound beautifully and has not unwound itself. The printer is located in my 1st floor office at home which is possibly the warmest room in the house (according to my wife).
|Thread: Cowells 90ME 14x1.5 backplate question|
I also have a Cowells ME90. This also had the M14x1.5 spindle. Because of the various chucks and tooling for my Cowell milling machine, Aciera and BCA machines I opted to upgrade to the later M14 x1.0 spindle. I can now move chucks, faceplates, collets around between all machines including my Myford Super 7.
Enjoy your Cowells lathe, they are great little machines.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.