Here is a list of all the postings oldvelo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Help with parts.|
Did a quick look at
I guess that you want to restore to the original specs.
Then ignore my ramblings below
What if the reversing gearbox was replaced with an extension on the lead screw and an extra gear fitted on the gear quadrant when the lead screw was needed in reverse.
|Thread: He who dares wins???|
One more mod to the X2 mill is to discard the coarse thread clamp bolt and
Make the threads @ 1 or 1.25 mm pitch fabricate a nut to suit.
The extra plate on the back of the column stiffens it up by heaps
As Neil points out the large cone-washer spreads the load to the sides of the column over a bigger area and not distorting the hollow column with the high load in the centre only.
With couple of brackets and jacking screws bolted to the column and bearing on a lug welded or bolted to the stiffener plate to fine adjust the tilt tramming becomes a breeze
|Thread: Warco minimill OR SIEG Super X2 OR none of them ?|
Had a quick read through this subject and almost fell of my chair with Clive Farrar's comment
"Once I know the motor is still sound i will get the parts and try to fix the board.
Its worth spending a few quid to see if i can avoid a £350 alternative".
Is Dick Turpins progeny still alive and well in England.
A replacement controller is available Ex USA for $81.95 that will do the job.
Set up to match the motor correctly this is an excellent alternative.
One of these is on my X2 mill and performs faultless at all times with a 1.25 hp motor.
Got rid of the noisy and fragile gear drive and fitted a "Poly Vee" Belt Drive.
Pics in my album
|Thread: Speed Control or Countershaft for Flexispeed Lathe?|
Can I add a little more info on "Chatter"
"I seem to recall somewhere that using a counter shaft is more effective at reducing chatter than a direct drive, but am not sure whether this is the case"
Here is a link to a query I posted on another forum why my lathe with a 180 volt DC motor with speed control ran so much smoother than the original AC motor. May be of interest to you and others following this thread.
Thanks to Ken for the full explanation of why this is so.
Have you considered a DC drive and speed control. Personally I think they are Ideal for the home workshop machine tools.
|Thread: play in bearing to spindle|
Read you reply to Ian S C it appears that the bearing had been "Loctited" before and was successful
You have to work quickly when setting preload on a bearing when using Loctite before it sets.
The bearing manufacturer can supply the information on how much torque-resistance is required.
A product I have used is "Ezi-Sleeve" to slide on to a shaft that has been damaged were an oil seal has run
Perhaps this may be of some use
Try an E-Mail to them @
email@example.com or their website
|Thread: Where to buy quick release nuts?|
They are easy enough to make a light weight nuts to support Guards etc
Used them to secure sheet metal guards on machinery.
You drill the 12 mm nut with a 12 mm slot drill on an angle so that there is only partial thread left on opposite sides of the nut .
Slide them on an angle to touch the guard and snug up firmly NO excess force as only a partial thread.
Rough drawing in my albums
|Thread: Meddings MF4 lubrication question|
This is another solution
a "Needle Nose" tip for your grease gun. Also available to replace the claw fitting on your gun they are usually
1/8 BSP thread
|Thread: Homebush Canterbury NZ open days 2014|
Hi to all
With apologies to Ian for jumping in
"Museum between Palmerston North and Wellington" is on Highway 57 at 744 Makerua Rd Tokomaru
website is at
Had the pleasure of roaming round this wonderful collection and Colin allowed me to view his workshops that are Not open to the public alas.
Fascinating place for anyone interested in old machinery.
"Neil all I see is a large white square."
I had the same problem just select the square and roll the mouse wheel toward you.
Hope this helps
|Thread: Speed reducers|
On the band saw I rebuilt with two drive motors one for wood hp 1425 rpm driving a counter shaft and one for metal 3/4 hp 1425 rpm driving a 18 to 1 worm gearbox that drives the counter shaft with "Poly Vee" belts all round
Remove the belt from the worm gearbox for wood and swap motor plugs.
Motor 1 Dia mm G'Box Dia
Wood & Composites
Motor 2 Dia mm C\Shaft Dia
Sorry about the Layout Just cut and pasted from an XLS Spreadsheet Used to find optimum ratios and pulley sizes
May be useful
Still toying with using a 1.5 hp DC motor and KB Electronics Controller and two speed pulleys.
Though two speed may not be needed as KB quotes up to 50 to 1 speed control and up to 120% max motor speed.
And 0 to 30% min speed on trimpot adjustment of controller.
Not the cheapest option DC drives. Mine is a Totally Biased opinion as a "DC Drive" and "Poly Vee" belt transmission addict.
Edited By oldvelo on 30/09/2014 04:10:54
|Thread: mill motor direction.|
As Neil points out that DC arcing can weld the contacts together.
That is NOT a problem IF you switch off the 230 volt AC line first then as Ziggar suggests allow the spindle to STOP.
Then flick the reverse switch, then switch on the 230 volt AC line the control will then ramp up to the set speed.
No point in destroying the electrics or yourself to save a dollar or a couple of seconds in time.
Be careful out there
|Thread: Myford var speed dc motor|
The "Heavy Duty" Electric Bike controller is probably capable of driving your 24 volt DC motor.
They rely on the bike moving for cooling son a fan would be necessary.
Be aware that 750 watts @ 24 volts DC = 32 AMPS current so the wiring will need to be adequate.
My workshop machine run on 180 volts DC from a 230 volt AC speed control converter.
This gives excellent constant speed control down to 5% of top speed.
VFD speed control is another excellent alternative lots of info @
|Thread: Elementary Sieg X2 Plus questions|
Hi to quote and old mentor of mine "If a man can build a machine then men can dismantle it".
Reasonably easy to stip and clean an X2 mill be careful and lock the head at the top of it's travel.
with block of wood under the head casting to stop it crashing down.
The carefully remove the "Gubbins" by releasing the tension spring first.
Remember RTFMF and study the exploded parts diagram as to what goes where.
The head should be resting on the wood block
Remove the stop from the column and remove the clamp screw and the gib adjustment screws and the gib strip will fall out.
You can now lift the head up and off the column.
DO NOT seperate the the two castings that make up the spindle head.
Have fun with your new mill
|Thread: X2 speed controller|
This starts alarm bells with me
"as the PO has cut and shut the whole set-up while attaching it to a huge frame of blue painted angle iron, I assume in an effort to get rid of any vibration"
A sturdy angle iron frame that has any distortion from welding will distort the cast iron frame on the mill and cause misalignment problem.
A quick check loosen the hold down bolts and check if there is clearance under the feet of the mill with a feeler guages.
Fabricate shims to that thickness and fit to the offending bolt do not tighten just yet.
Lock the all Gibs with the table in approximately the middle of the travel
Fit a Dial Test Indicator on an arm from the spindle and check the reading on the dial with the plunger on the outside end of the table and write it down.
Repeat on the other corners
Tighten the holding down bolts and recheck the four DTI readings
If all four are the same as the original readings you have it right first time.
If not them you will have to add shim where the DTI shows that the base has distorted.
You can Add a washer under the feet to make it a bit easier to shim true
Or use Short jacking screws and adjusting nuts Look at an example in my Photo Album.
|Thread: Guess what this is?|
Beautifully made piece of equipment
No all wrong it is device invented by a vet to blow pills down a horses throat .
Previously he used to put one end of rubber hose in the horses mouth and insert the pill in the other end and then blew in it
He got sick of the horses blowing first.
|Thread: What drill bit for drilling 1 inch long 5mm hole through 10mm grub screw?|
Now that we have more info on the job in hand.
The object is to secure an injector into the cylinder head on a diesel engine of cast iron or aluminum alloy.
Drill out the 10 mm hole and tap out to 14 mm and fabricate a softer bolt 8.8 as max strength 5.5 will be more than adequate with a slot to drive it in with a screw driver.
Loctite the 14 mm screw in the head and allow it to harden and dry.
Make sure that the internal thread is absolutely clean and no loctite liquid still in the thread to avoid making the injector hold down bolt a permanant fixture.
The insert screw does not need to be super hard as the cylinder head is relatively soft!
To finish with a question what is the diameter of the original hold down bolts for the injector as i have serious doubts that it is only 5 mm @ approximately 25 mm long
If as I suspect that is 8 mm then use a 14 mm for the plug.
Good luck with the repair and be positive this can be fixed.
Edited By oldvelo on 03/08/2014 00:51:07
|Thread: Quick Change Tool Post|
A useful source that I use for machine tool accessories is
With the NZ dollar around 80 cents US it is a viable to import.
Be aware that shipping costs are pricey and that the value must be under $400 NZ or you pay the dreaded GST.
If you have a milling machine with time and patience you can fabricate your own personal customized set.
There are over 20 of them now roosting on a shelf behind my lathe with a couple of QCTP's.
Once the tool posts were made they started to reproduce tool holders and now they are everywhere.
|Thread: Gripping Drills in Chucks|
An old mentor of mine insisted that the best way to tighten any three jaw chuck be it on a lathe or drilling machine
"tighten it using all four holes on a three jaw chuck".
This will grip so tight that then it will need the extension on the key to loosen it.
Swinging on an extended chuck key in one hole only will damage the scroll.
A keyless chuck can be pulled up tight with a strap wrench that is used for removing oil filters a gentle nudge is all that is required no massive force.
|Thread: Donkey (Mechanical saw to everyone else)|
Hi to All
Nice find Graham rugged and straight forward piece of machinery and a useful addition to any home workshop.
A damper is not required as stated by other posters on a small machine just some means of adding extra weight for cutting thicker material.
Aim for around 85 to 105 strokes per minute and cutting on the "Pull Stroke" on a small machine.
A comment for John on the Axminster Hacksaw the "Air Spring" damper will be more effective if the top mounting pivot point is is moved to the right and fixed closer to the the saw frame pivot.
Anyone interested in "Power Hacksaws" do a search on "You Tube" and enjoy.
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