Here is a list of all the postings oldvelo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Help Wanted KBIC 240 AC to DC Motor Control|
|Thread: Speed Control of Single Phase Motors|
Hi this is not a single phase cap start but a single to three phase controller and a three phase motor that does instant reverse for the agitator cycle.
This is the motor I am familiar with
Apology to Chris for the intrusion
Edited By oldvelo on 23/11/2015 22:16:24
|Thread: Locomotion No. 1 - where to start ?|
Being a expat "Geordie" there are a couple of full size Locomotion No 1s are at "Beamish Museum" this is a full scale working replica.
The other is the original machine and Is at "Shildon Railway Museum" near Darlington.
|Thread: Machine Saw|
Great job of the power hacksaw for a home shop this is the probably best example of of a sturdy and well thought out machines I have seen for its rugged.simplicity
Having a fascination for power hacksaw from seeing one in operation as a kid in the dark ages. and seen many variations.
A couple of questions out of curiosity looking at the photo does the crank turn clockwise or anti clockwise.
Does it cut with teeth toward or away from the motor.
|Thread: Power Hacksaw|
Followed this post you only have four choices clockwise anticlockwise teeth left teeth right.
Built a power hacksaw that cuts best on the pull stroke with the pivot above the centre line of the crank with the blade on the left and the crank turning anti clockwise.
It is hiding at https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=wobbly+hacksaw
Conclusion is it all depends on the position of the pivot point location in relation to the crank and the overall design of the thousand of variations of a very simple machine
|Thread: WM16 motor replacement|
Hind sight observation here
"Thanks for the replies,to be honest I've never been totally impressed with the motor it seemed to eat brushes".
This is a sure sign that all is not well with the armature windings on the motor for some time.
Sorry this will not help with your problem I am in not being critical just adding a pointer to any else who may be experiencing a motor that "Eats" brushes.
|Thread: What is it about the Brits? From Jet engines to Warp drive.|
"Every morning before setting off I suck out the Hydrogen gas with a Hoover to prevent the gas evolved during charging from igniting from sparks while traveling."
Hydrogen Gas - Hoover - Commutator Sparking = Hydrogen Powered Jet Engine
Surely it was Frank Whittle sucking petrol fumes through a Hoover that the resulting rapid movement of the Hoover that inspired him to invent the jet engine.
|Thread: Motor for machine|
"Has anyone or do anyone run a Treadmill Motor on their machines.
from what I have read , these motors have good ajustable speed/power control with no loss of torque,
Are they easily converted for say powering a milling machine?"
Short answer YES
Lathe, Mill, Hacksaw, 2 Drill Presses all on DC motors using KB Electronics, Minarik, and Dart Controllers
That use 230 volts AC converted to 180 volts DC.
You need to know and understand how to wire them up and set them up to match the motor power.
Mistakes can be FATAL and permanent DEATH can be the consequences.
They can give excellent speed and torque control at high speeds say over 1/2 the motor RPM this falls off the available torque at low speeds.
A separate cooling fan ex computer 12 volt DC is desirable when using less than full motor speed.
I use an AMP Meter wired in on the DC motor leads For setting up and measuring the load when machining.
As for the reversing If the brushes on the motor are at 90 degrees to the commutator then no problem with running in clock or anti-clock as with a lathe or mill almost all running will be in one direction.
Download the manual from KB Electronics and or Minarik
Hope this helps
|Thread: Albion Gearbox 3 speed gearbox dismantling.|
The problem looks familiar with the sprocket. It will have "Fretted" on the splines and is NOT screwed on and there will be a burr thrown up on the shaft.
Will you be re using the sprocket Then a protective plug on the end of the shaft and a hydraulic puller should tear it off with some repair to the shaft.
My limited Knowledge is that this is "Fluid Gear Grease" box with a mix of grease and heavy oil and some leaks were to be expected.
Modern Gear grease is far superior performance and almost no leaking.
Sure the clutch corks are worn but will be serviceable for a while.
A fiddly job to fabricate cork for the clutch with a Sharp knife and sand paper block to get them to fit.
Then soak the plate and corks in water and assemble the clutch using the spring pressure to clamp them.
When dried out dismantle Then true up the face of the corks. Lathe and tool post grinder comes to mind.
|Thread: Major Systems Update at ARC|
Thanks Ketan for the "Mission Statement" for the set up of a new server that will be a valuable tool.
Do not ignore the friendly banter from others on this forum you can take it as upside down compliments
from people who have a high regard for for you and what you do.
To all who posted thanks for the humor and good natured banter this in my biased opinion will NOT happen between people of an unfriendly attitude toward each other.
|Thread: Hammer Free Morse Taper Tooling Removal|
No brute force was used or excessive torque applied in tightening The lock-keeper bolts.
Insert the taper into the socket half to two thirds of the length of the taper and quick flick of the wrist to slap it home.
Then always used the method taught in the mid 20 th century to nip up lock bolts on morse tapers.
Thumb on the head of the spanner that is on the nut and gentle squeeze using the pinky and ring finger to nip up just firm.
Hope the photo's in my album "Morse Taper Removal" explain better.
|Thread: Amolco mill|
Before you get all destructive with the pulley.
Try heating up the aluminium pulley and penetrating oil on the spindle.
Drill and tap three 8 or 10 m holes in the top of the pulley threaded rods and 10 mm thick plate drilled on the same layout as the tapped holes back off the the nut holding the pulley a couple of turns.
The spindle comes out the bottom of the housing the top bearing should be a light push fit on the spindle.
With the pulley removed you can press the spindle out the bottom or use a brass or soft metal drift drive it out.
Check that the spindle nut is Left or Right Hand Thread and to remove the key from the spindle.
A couple of checks before replacing bearings. Is the (1) "Pre Load" too tight (2) Too much grease in the bearings.
An Ampere meter on the motor leads is invaluable for checking the load on the motor and for setting pre load on bearings.
Or as Graham suggests New Bearings.
So a strip and clean examination.
How hot was the bearing housing and the motor casing Hand on for three seconds is fine.
Scorched skin on wet fingers is big trouble.
|Thread: Whats the best mini mill?|
"PS: Trouble with the Micro is height in that as soon as you put a rotary table on the bed there's none left! Plus of course the Achilles heal that is the plastic gearing, one snatch and they are toothless.".
The first consideration buying a mill is what are you going to use it for Large jobs or small and intricate pieces.
New or used machine to fit your budget needs careful thought.
Personal Choice ((Biased Opinion)) based on owning an X2 Mill Drill with plastic gears, tilt column and quadrant arm spring thing to slow the fall of the head under gravity withe the gib lock loosened.
Many modifications later a small mill drill without the aforementioned hindrances performing much better.
The new models of X2 with solid column larger tables and belt drive would have saved many hours rebuilding and and modifying Although the challenge and the satisfaction would have been lost.
Horses for Courses. Small Mill Big Job = Trying & Testing Big Mill small Job = Less Stress.
Keep us posted on your decision and the reasons for your choice.
|Thread: AC or tapered roller bearings?|
Taper Roller Bearings is the best option But you need to some modifications to spacers as the sizes are different
Standard bearing is 62 x 30 x 16 Taper Roller is 62 x 30 x 17.25.
The very close second is Angular Contact Bearings.
Original bearings are only just adequate for the job
Ketan I know will not use any forum to advertise his expertise.
Myself not having any connection at all with this company and only know of the excellent reputation through the writings of other and my reading across several forums.
Got to this link and all the information for bearing replacement is available
or this link can be useful
I hope you don not "Black List" me for this post Neil just trying to get good info to a fellow Model Engineer.
|Thread: Learning to Love the Metrinch|
It is now first of April in New Zealand and thankfully over 19000 Kilometres from the E.U or a lot of metincnhes.
You must be importing lots of "Taranaki Mushrooms" for breakfast as this garbled nonsense can only come from the mind that is altered by by chemical action.
Do the Idiots that want to make such changes have any idea of how to measure things accurately.
The next one will be metric time perhaps Westjet was NOT joking and each day is a kilometre long just to add to the confusion.
It's NOT broke or liable to break so what is point in trying to fix it.
Must be that if you are useless at anything then be a politician for the E.U.
Where are descendants of the founders of the industrial revolution or have the sledge hammer wielding machine smashers begun to dominate and be elected to high places.
Wonder how they tackle the "Pythagarus Theorum".
Not much point from a New Zealand perspective as the sun goes From East over North To West
so we must be going the wrong way.
Perhaps we should change all threads to "Left Hand" as we are turning the opposite way.
Kia Kaha - Be Strong and stand up for what you Know to be right.
|Thread: DC Lathe and Mill drive motors|
A computer cooling fan fitted to the end of the motor run from a 12 volt "Plug Pack" power supply will help keep the motor a lot cooler on low speed and high loading.
As Blowlamp suggests a bigger horse power motor will give much better performance over the stock standard motor.
This review may be of interest to anyone.
Thank's to Frank Hoose and his excellent website.
As Les says an occasional check and clean out is all that is required.
In a home workshop they will not be run for an excessive amount of time in a year.
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