Here is a list of all the postings oldvelo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tightening jacobs chucks|
An old mentor of mine insisted that we tighten a three jaw chuck using all four holes.
|Thread: ME 4538 Auckland Model & Experimental Engineers|
There are photos in my albums of a draw bar release for an X2 mill that may be of some use.
|Thread: Hemingway Compact Powered Hacksaw|
Hate them or love them with power hacksaws. Being the latter then I can give a monocled view on power hacksaws and the use of.
A couple of Hacksaws I have worked on can be seen on Youtube search for "Wobbly Hacksaw" and
Sure they are not as quick as a Bandsaw but will perform well if set up properly and up to 5 kgs weight on the blade.
Old "Wobbly" has now a DC motor with variable speed from 0 to 90 strokes a minute and copes with anything thrown at it.
A standard hacksaw blade is used with a mix of 50% kerosene dripped on the cut and gives many hours use on one blade.
Number Two tool is a Vertical Band Saw converted to cut steel Pics in my Albums.
|Thread: three phase motor current|
Sorry to answer with more question so what is the reading on the mains to inverter leads.
Would this not be more accurate.
|Thread: Flying Scotsman's schedule to be kept secret|
How can the police help when most of them are off duty having spent the previous night keeping the the stupid revelers from harming themselves and others.
Being a Railways Nut Case I ask why you would clamber on the tracks for few seconds of useless video or blurred and distorted image of the Flying Scotsman.
When a carefully selected vantage point some distance from the tracks you can enjoy the full symphony not a few distorted notes.
The intelligence is built into a modern camera so that lot's of users think that is transfered to them.
This will render them invincible to any threat or danger.
You can educate ignorance but you can not fix stupid.
|Thread: Warco WM14 mill, jammed drawbar|
A block of wood on the table and and and slap the boring bar head down on to it to wedge the morse taper into the socket and the undo the bolt.
I suspect that the thread may be damaged.
You Can remove the head of the bolt by drilling a small hole in the centre of the bolt head and keep increasing the drill size until the head falls free
A ring spanner on the head may be needed Wired or duct taped in place or a second pair of hands to stop it spinning.
Or as suggested hold the boring head in the vice this will not unscrew the boring head from the arbor and drill it off.
|Thread: Oils seals, which way to install?|
John is spot on can I add a little more. the bearings are rubber sealed so no lubricant on the seal so a dab of grease on the shaft before fitting the seal.
There are "Double Lipped" Seals available with smaller secondary lip to keep dirt out and lubricant in.
Or a felt grommet soaked in oil instead of a modern seal will keep the swarf out.
|Thread: Slit Saw for small mill|
It is possible to fit an abrasive blade to to ferrous metals on your chop saw.
Down side is lots of sparks with a fire risk with lots mess and with burned edges on the workpiece.
A use a 1.5 mm thick blade with flood coolant and a slow and smooth feed rate.
Take 3 to 6 MM depth of cut with about 30 metres a minute tip speed.
On a vertical spindle mill you are very restricted in the size of the work piece you can handle.
Depending on how much you will use it a bandsaw is fine if if you can afford the cost and the space.
A small power hacksaw will be cheaper with a smaller foot print.
|Thread: Bandsaw blade speed - how far can you push it?|
A vertical bandsaw can be converted to cut metal very successfully with the proper gearing down.
A link to the last conversion of mine
A Bi-Metal blade is well worth the extra cost for cutting steel
|Thread: Hydrogen embrittlement in steel?|
Why would you want to a Zinc or Galvanised coating to a steam pressure vessel and run the risk of severe corrosion of any attached fittings.
Part working life was boiler overhauls and fitting and maintaining a factory steam supply Where the use of any Zinc or Galvanised fittings was prohibited because of the risk of failure from electrolosys.
Any exposed steel can be painted with a heat resistant paint.
|Thread: Faulty switch?|
It appears that the relay does not hold the contacts in check that the stop button contacts are Normal Closed first.
The coil on the relay may have a fault.
Murphys Law may apply Inter changeable parts will exhibit basic fundamental differences.
Has the motor and the line leads been transposed.
|Thread: speed control needed|
IF this is a Universal Motor I.E Brushes and Commutator the it will run on a AC to DC speed Controller.
Expensive yes and needs to setup to match the motor.
|Thread: How to gently increasing pulley bore size|
A 50 plus years old pulley bore may no longer be in good condition with burrs and other damage.
If there is no keyway in the pulley you may be able to use a "Brake Cylinder Hone" on the bore.
Or a light linishing on the spindle would be my preference.
|Thread: Sieg X2 belt drive|
I can go along with the suggestion for using "Poly Vee Belts" on an X2 Mill Drill.
Having done a few iterations on my mill and settled for 1.25 hp motor with two speed"Poly Drive".
4 Rib Pulleys are easy to fabricate from aluminium or cast iron.
|Thread: NIGEL GRESLEY DIMENSIONS|
The full size specifications can be found at
Scroll down for all Technical Details.
|Thread: Black Ice|
Yes have seen "Black Ice" on on instance it was in Durham City around 1960 or before when steam locos where still in use and the "Flying Scotsman" came through the cutting at Nevilles Cross yes complete with discordant whistle screaming and sliding on tracks covered with "Black Ice" slid through the station and came to stand still on the embankment above Sidegate.
Was eventually assisted back to the platform by a Banker Engine.
|Thread: Neat cutting oil. (recommendation)|
Off Topic but happy to run alongside
To apply cutting oil I use an oil can with a wide base and and very short in height and stick a "Pipe Cleaner" like thing from the local craft shop pushed down the spout with just a few bristles sticking out.
Gentle pressure on the lever and you have constantly rechargeable brush.
Push too hard and a big oily worm and a mess everywhere if you do not restrain it in the detachable spout by a small loop in the end.
No prizes for guessing how I learned this.
|Thread: Blackgates Power hacksaw Rebuild|
An idler or a slipper pad on the non drive side of the chain will take care of a slack chain.
It is quite possible that the original chain had a half or cranked link fitted
Post a photo or two please for another power hacksa w nut
|Thread: 3PH Speed control, what Pulley?|
Forum members have pointed out the pros and cons of a variable speed drive.
As john indicates that a six pole motor will give better performance at it's lower rated speed of 950 rpm over a 2 pole 2850 rpm motor.
On any variable speed motor be it AC or DC an Auxiliary fan is needed if running on low speed.
A large computer fan run from a 12 volt DC plug pack is a good place to start.
As ega requests that more information will help and photos are invaluable.
My wood lathe is a Bitsa with a DC motor and variable speed controller .
Have a look at my Album "Lathe Clutch" it may be of help.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.