Here is a list of all the postings oldvelo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Quick Change Tool Post|
A useful source that I use for machine tool accessories is
With the NZ dollar around 80 cents US it is a viable to import.
Be aware that shipping costs are pricey and that the value must be under $400 NZ or you pay the dreaded GST.
If you have a milling machine with time and patience you can fabricate your own personal customized set.
There are over 20 of them now roosting on a shelf behind my lathe with a couple of QCTP's.
Once the tool posts were made they started to reproduce tool holders and now they are everywhere.
|Thread: Gripping Drills in Chucks|
An old mentor of mine insisted that the best way to tighten any three jaw chuck be it on a lathe or drilling machine
"tighten it using all four holes on a three jaw chuck".
This will grip so tight that then it will need the extension on the key to loosen it.
Swinging on an extended chuck key in one hole only will damage the scroll.
A keyless chuck can be pulled up tight with a strap wrench that is used for removing oil filters a gentle nudge is all that is required no massive force.
|Thread: Donkey (Mechanical saw to everyone else)|
Hi to All
Nice find Graham rugged and straight forward piece of machinery and a useful addition to any home workshop.
A damper is not required as stated by other posters on a small machine just some means of adding extra weight for cutting thicker material.
Aim for around 85 to 105 strokes per minute and cutting on the "Pull Stroke" on a small machine.
A comment for John on the Axminster Hacksaw the "Air Spring" damper will be more effective if the top mounting pivot point is is moved to the right and fixed closer to the the saw frame pivot.
Anyone interested in "Power Hacksaws" do a search on "You Tube" and enjoy.
|Thread: Re Generated files|
A safer way than using Sulphuric Acid is to use ordinary household "Washing soda" solution of around 1 cup full of crystals to 1 gallon of water.
With the file-files connected to positive and the negative to a lump of lead steel or carbon block.
True the result is not a 'New" file but one that can be used for roughing out and then finish with a
Avoid stainless steel as an anode or cathode in this process and the contamination from chromium in the brew.
A DC welder can be used as an alternative to a battery charger you must NOT use at a HIGH amperage setting as the results can spectacular and very DANGEROUS. Lowest setting only is sufficient.
|Thread: Silver solder identification by rod colour. low/hi temp|
A simple test for silver solder Learned a lad.
Grab a stick and bend it If it bends easily the it is most probably "Easy Flo" Low Temp "flux required"
If it is hard to bend then it is "Silfos" used for no flux joins in copper and bronzes.
|Thread: Poly V Belt Conversion|
Following your posting with interest being a "Poly Vee" fanatic
Pleased to see "Thanks for the tip about using a tap to cut the grooves but I have ground up a carbide grooving tool with the 40 degree angle.
Near enough good enough not for me. The enemy of the best is not the worst but the good enough.
Go for it with "Poly Vee" belts and aluminium pulleys I can recommend them as all metal working machines in my workshop have them.
Instead of castings you can use ali discs 12 mm thick bolted together to flanged boss bored to fit the shaft size.
Looking at Normans excellent photo this seems to be a viable proposition.
EDIT Looking again at the photo Maybe the large pulley is to big to be turned on a "Myford" so a proportionate reduction in diameter may be used.
PJ "Poly Vee" will run on a 20 mm pulley much tighter than a "Vee Belt".
Edited By oldvelo on 12/12/2013 19:05:45
|Thread: Silver soldering problems|
Here Goes I'll stick my Totally Biased Opinion on good Brazing-Silver Soldering technique.
All advice offered so far is good practice.
|Thread: Coolant pump|
sorry to state the most obvious but is the rotation correct. Yes a gap in the housing to shaft is normal to allow the outlet on the discharge to be throttled and release the excess flow back to the tank.
Is the converter variable speed
|Thread: Motor for Lathe|
Regards a rev counter you could use a "Bicycle Computer" with the trip magnet on the lathe spindle.
There was an article in "Model Engineers Workshop" a while back that gave all the info How to do it.
You program the wheel circumference to 167 centimetres then the reading needs to be multiplied by 10
Therefore 127.5 = 1275 RPM.
Here is link to the controls that I use
They are small and compact and fairly easy to wire up BUT they must be set up to suit the motor being used.
You need have the skills required to do this as high voltage DC current is very unforgiving and can be FATAL.
Use the existing motor pulley and flywheel as it helps with a bit smoother running construct a new pulley for the counter shaft to match the "Poly Vee" pitch on the motor.
When you are up and running you will have an even more smooth running an very versatile machine.
Most treadmill motors are 180 volts DC And in the 1.5 to 2.5 hp Treadmill duty which translates to about just over half the "Treadmill Horse Power"
Having said that they are an excellent motor for smaller lathes and mills.
Setting up the motor controller can be a bit tricky but when properly set they give great results.
My own machines are all DC powered ( Lathe two Drill Presses And a SX2 Mill Drill)
Very happy with the performance.
Keep us posted will be pleased to help get this project up and running.
|Thread: How to estimate HP of a compound marine engine|
I guess that the question has been answered already so no formulae from me.
A point I remember about triple expansion marine engines with a condensor is that the condensor pressure is much lower than atmospheric pressure so a slight gain in power on the exhaust stroke by the negative pressure on the piston.
|Thread: Lubrication on new Warco GH1230|
Thanks for the intrest have had difficulty posting piocs on this site so opened a thread
Hope this helps
""A photo/details appreciated please.""
The oil pump is a gear pump that is driven by a 24 volt DC motor power from a transfomer with a DC rectifier.
The power supply is approximately 6volts DC fed to the motor to give a reduced speed.
The “Manifold” is fabricated from two pieces of Clear Polycarbonate sheet 10mm thick
The underside is drilled and a short piece of plastic tubing push fitted to deliver oil to bearings and gears.
Apologies Luke for the intrusion to answer this question.
|Thread: 115 V DC Motor lathe powerfeed?.|
What is the mains voltage where you live if it is in the USA then what about a variable speed AC to DC convertor from
This will give a feed rate from over 5 inches per minute down to 0.022 inches per minute.
Just wire it up and full control with a single knob to control the speed.
The initial setup can be a bit fiddly but once setup properly will give excellent control over the feed rate.
If you are on 230 volt AC main then a stepdown transformer is required to out put 110volts AC.
A DC motor Fanatic
Edited By oldvelo on 03/09/2013 03:06:48
|Thread: Power Rating of Poly-V Belts|
I run a metal cutting bandsaw with 6 ribbed J section poly vee belts with the drive wheel pulley of
150 mm dia drive @ 26 RPM with no sign of slippage.
|Thread: Lubrication on new Warco GH1230|
Just run it with the oil that is inthe gearbox to run it in but before filling it with Tellus 68 flush it out thoroughly with "Straight" mineral oil 30 SAE it will do no harm if you run the spindle for a while with no load on it this will help with the removal of the old oil and any other debris in the oil sump.
I had problems with the original oil in the headstock of my 10 X 27 lathe plus the spindle bearings were packed with "Bear Grease".
A complete clean out and some extra oilways drilled.
Fitted an external oil pump and filter and fabricated a manifold to replace the top cover of the gearbox to deliver oil to all bearings and gears.
Now a very quiet running gearbox.
|Thread: Motor bearings|
One of my jobs when working as factory engineer was overhaul of machinery and motors.
The normal procedure to replace open race grease lubricated bearings was to fit in your case a
6203 2rs bearing with a "Wave Washer" in the housing opposite the drive shaft.
You can expect many years of running from them.
1969 Ransome's joined with Hoffman's and Pollard's as subsidiaries of RHP Limited.
One small note it would appear that your motor bearings were replaced some time after that date.
|Thread: Weir Pump Design|
This topic can be found on this forum at "" Beginners questions > Weir donkey pump""
There is lots of usefull information.
|Thread: Silver soldering, I still don't get it.|
Lots of good advice offered in this posting on the technical issues to bee observed when silver soldering.
Like all welding and brazing it is a process that requires some manual dexterity to get the best results.
My advice is to address the way you manipulate and hold the torch.
Hold it gently as if using pencil or an artists brush and not tightly gripped like a hammer.
The arms held away from the body like a bird about to fly not crushed into the rib cage.
Keep the flame of the torch on the part to be solderdered and control temprature by moving the torch tip away while keeping the flame on the molten metal.
This will allow the metal to "Freeze" while it is protected from oxidiseing.
DO NOT wiggle the torch from side to side to control the temprature and expose the molten metal to the atmosphere.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.