Here is a list of all the postings oldvelo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: work slipping while threading ...|
An old mentor of mine back in time used to say. "To Tighten a three jaw chuck use the key in all of four holes".
It will be so tight you may need an extension on the chuck key handle to loosen it.
Never use an extension to tighten the chuck.
|Thread: Kennedy Hacksaw bearing replacement|
"I think I'll probably devise a conversion using a poly V belt drive, but I'm not sure if I will be able to get a low enough drive ration in a single stage"
Any ratio with the flat belt as on th Kennedy Hacksaw can be replicated with Poly Vee Belts.
Machine the motor pulley with grooves on the centre line of the driven pulley. Machining grooves in the large diameter pulley is optional as the drive will work without the .grooves. and self centre on the crowned pulley.
Being Poly Vee Drive addict anything I build that is belt driven is with Poly Vee Belts fitted
|Thread: Thread-cutting oil|
Slightly off topic.
"" Forgive the slight deviation, but while we're at it I'd be interested to know people's preferred method for dispensing their neat cutting/tapping oil when machining, as long as it is a method that ensures I won't spill the oil on the floor"" .
Use a Pump type oil can with a "Pipe Cleaner" shoved in the spout with just a little bit of the tip stuck out to us as a rechargeable brush or to drip the oil from it.
You do not need to take your eyes off the job to thrash around to find the spill proof pot and splash fluid everywhere on the return stroke.
This has been my preffered method of applying cutting "Neat" fluid and kerosene mix for many years now.
As for "Bacon Grease" it's not acceptable as the salt used to cure the bacon is corrosive and when it goes rancid it Stinks.
Edited By oldvelo on 25/03/2022 19:00:31
Edited By oldvelo on 25/03/2022 19:03:20
|Thread: Pound - US dollar|
A dollar is worth about ¾ of a pound. (Multiply £ by 1.3 to get $)
Massive slide in the exchange rate that I remember as being taught from a pre WW-2 text book of
$1 = 4s 2p
or 1 Pound Sterling. = $4 80c compared to 1 Pound Sterling = $1 30c
|Thread: Anyone come across a 15/32 AF spanner?|
Grip Master 12 mm spanner as used by ICI Instrument Artificers 60 + years ago will do the job as they grip the flats on the nut back from the corners on four places.
|Thread: Is there ever a time to let politics come into the forum|
What part of NO is it you do not understand
|Thread: What are these connectors called?|
The round pin "Molex" connections come in multiple sockets. click on the link Molex
|Thread: Neat cutting oil. (recommendation)|
Trichoethylene, or Carbon Tetracloride are NOT to be used as solvents unless in a safe environment where you do not come into contact with the fumes or the liquid.
Years ago container of Trike with a thick film of Carbon Tetrachloride on the surface to keep the trike from evaporating or catching fire was used a lot for degreasing parts.
|Thread: Information please|
Loads of info here Odney Manor hope this is of use
Edited By oldvelo on 17/02/2022 15:51:26
|Thread: (Another) Mini Lathe Speed Controller Problem|
Hi There is a correct way to tune the circuit to match the motor but not for the faint hearted or inexperienced.
It involves locking the motor rotor and setting the Amperage output to be LESS than the maximum of the motor rating by adjusting the correct Potentiometer.
I have the manual for adjusting a KB circuit on file. PM me for a copy if you want use it. I Strongly suggest the you have the setup performed by a qualified Electrician with the proper equipment to do the job safely.
One modification to a DC motor drive I keep on banging on about is to fit an Amp Meter to the motor leads to measure the motor amps under load.
Use this to set the power feed speed to be able to read that the power used is less than the motor output to prevent overloading.
A photo in my album will explain it better. The motor leads also have fuses on both motor leads
Edited By oldvelo on 17/02/2022 06:27:57
Edited By oldvelo on 17/02/2022 06:28:21
The control board looks like a KB Electronics AC to DC motor variable speed control.
The white rectangular block is a horse power restrictor The component that was damaged was probably fitted for some reason piggy back in parallel to the hp resistor.
Spares and an extensive range of information is available from KB Electronics.
Another source is available from Surplus Center
Click on the link Surplus Center have spares available to match the motor horsepower.
I have used Their Minarik control on DC motors and found the satisfactory once setup to match the motor power
Edited By oldvelo on 15/02/2022 04:00:16
|Thread: I am getting shorter - how about you.|
I am much taller now as when I get down on the floor to reach under something it takes me longer to get up so it must be further so I must be taller.
|Thread: Mini-Mill Belt Drive Conversion|
Mine works fine 4 Ribs "J" section powered by a 1.25 hp DC motor
4 Rib Poly Vee conversion will out perform any Vee Belt
|Thread: Mini Mill belt drive conversion kit|
Poly Vee conversion will give better performance than vee belts. This conversion was done ona X2 mill years ago with a 1.25 hp DC Motor added. along with other mods giving Trouble free running ever since.
|Thread: Makita LS1013 compound mitre saw - blade issue|
Are you using a reducng bush in the blade that is thicker than the blade.
A thinner blade may need to have the recess the clamping washer to be machined a little deeper.
Replace the clamp bolt with a brand new one plus flat washer and star washer.
Clean the clamping and blade oil and grease. Silcone lubricant spray if used on the saw is often the cause of the blade clamp slipping loose.
|Thread: Mill MT4 taper mod question-Release|
Not recommended to reduce the contact area.
Insert the morse taper into the socket 1/3 of it's length and slap it home firmly if the taper and socket are in good condition this is firm enough to drive the tool holder with the drawbar snugged up omly to hold it there.
You can make it a lot easier to release by not winching it up with a big long spanner.
Put your right thumb on the jaws of the spanner and apply pressure with three fingers with pinky as no 1 and
snug up firmly.
A forcing screw device to push the taper free is prefered over bashing it free withe a hammer.
|Thread: Decent hacksaw blades|
My recomendation is for the Swedish Bahco Hand Hacksaw Blades that I use on a power hacksaw that I have been useing for around ten years on various metals with very good performance.
Many of the blades for various manufacturers were tried and non performed as well as Bahco Brand.
Using handsaw blades in a power hacksaw is about as hard a punishment you can deal out to the blade with weight up to 5 kgs extra on the frame.
A clip on You Tube of the prototype that has been improved with a variable speed DC motor and the drip feed uses a mixture of 50/50 cutting oil and kerosine.
|Thread: Paint stripper|
Personal preference for stripping paint from Steel, Caste Iron, Aluminium using Electrolosys.
Not being a fan of using very harsh chemicals and the dangers with their use and disposal.
Washing Soda Solution in a plastic container. Battery charger, Lead sheeting to positive lead, job to negative lead.
Rinse under running water while wire brushing the loose paint and nuetralised rusting.
Dewater parts with WD40 Or CRC etc to preventfurther light rust that will form if air dried only..
Has worked for me over many years now for cleaning for painting machinery overhauls - rebuilds.
|Thread: Silver soldering stainless steel|
A special silver solder sticks are available especialy for stainless steel with a flux coating. Loads of info on You Tube or on a Google search for "Silver Solder Stainless Steel".
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