Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Mill Tramming Complications - Debugging Help Required|
From the photo of the tramming set up holding the dial gauge, I would be very careful about quoting very small dimensions read by the gauge, the rods holding the gauge need to be much more substantial,to stop deflection affecting the readings.the rod in the mill spindle should be much shorter and larger in diameter to make the set up stiffer, the rod holding the dial gauge should be around 15 mm diameter min.My old boss have gone bananas at the set up.
|Thread: New 3 Jaw Chuck|
If a tos or bison chuck is too expensive,why not look around for a good used Burnerd,or European make perhaps old stock or shop soiled stock, early this year I needed a new or good 10 inch 4 jaw for my Colchester, found a Bison 4 jaw covered in dirty grease and in wooden crate took a chance and bought it ,cleaned off it had never been used and was a third of new price. But do not buy unseen.
|Thread: Thread cutting problem|
The problem could be poor manufacture of the die,I have had a tap from a well known supplier which jammed solid in the hole,it had no clearance ,or possibly negative clearance,replaced without question,and the replacement worked perfectly,i also have a set of set of ME taps and dies,one of the dies just will not cut,others in the set are ok,this was one of those exhibition offers from many years ago again poor manufacture no doubt from the far east,again a well known uk vendor. Again I bought a set of drills at an exhibition, a previous similar .set from the same vendor had been very good. this second larger set was very poor,some drills ground off centre,others with negative clearance. I had lost the receipt and could not be bothered to send them back ,so used them for making counterbores and a lot were resharpened and ground backed off for brass, next year I tackled the chap on the exhibitors stall,he admitted that the had received a poor batch and asked if i had brought them along,and he would replaced them,could not fault that,I just told him that I had used them for other purposes, I did buy a same size set from another source of a known make ,only snag they were 5 times the cost.
|Thread: 1/16" Taper Pin Reamers|
Where I was trained it was practice to drive small taper reamers by hand with a tap wrench,and used a similar tallow based lubricant similar to Trefolex, step drilling does help on all sizes of taper reamers,After apprenticeship days I did not use taper reamers until the 1970s when I started restoring stationary engines,I now have a collection of reamers,a mixture of straight and spiral flutes,I tend to use spiral flute type in the drilling machine as it clears the swarf easier,care has to be taken when reaming a hole through a cast iron boss fitted to a steel shaft,the mix of swarf tends to jam the reamer,another good lubricant is liquid Rocol.
|Thread: Quality small metric spanners|
Barrie Where did get the info that IBM made their mainframe screws,all the mainframes that I was involved with were purchased from screw suppliiers ,I know I was there from 1967, Getting back to spanners I have owned a set of metric combination spanners,which have the silent ratchets,came in a box as a gift with no manufacturers marks.They have proved very usefull. Most of my BA spanners are 1950s King Dick ex WD I also have a set of BA ring spanners by Gordon tools circa 1960,purchased via works apprentice tool club 50% discount, so most of spanners purchased at that time,were Gordon, boss did not mind if the tools he got for us apprentices were used at home for our motor cycles,still got all of them ,the Gordon tools stood up well to week end use,they were as good as the most poular brand at the time ie KIng Dick,later when I got a Spanish Bultaco I bought Elora ring ,O/E and sockets and have lasted well , The first far east spanners and tools that came inti this country were rubbish ,nowadays ,even the cheap spanners and sockets bought from stalls on autojumble will stand to amateur use,and are relatively cheap so it does not matter if a tool needs to be modified (butchered).
|Thread: Electric vehicles|
Ever since earl engineers tried steam carriages on the road,the powers that be in this country have been against the population being mobile,the rich had their horses but wanted to keep the rest of us static so that they were in command,now they are at it again forcing us to run around in milk floats,after these comments the serious side of it is how will cars be convenienly charged,take the thousands of coronation street style houses, every house would need a point on the edge of the road,cannot lay cables across the pavement from house to car,how long will it be before thieves find it profitable to nick the charging cables or thieve cars just to get the batteries. regarding efficiency cars have been around for around 130 years and its taken all that time to arrive at cars which have good fuel consumption and reliability,how long will it really be before the electric car can deliver a similar overall performance and cost.
|Thread: Wheels or frame for power hacksaw|
Ajax you mention that you have a pallet truck to move your rapidor ,why cant you use it to move the bigger saw. One way a friend got over the problem of getting enough space to saw up long work was to place the saw out in the garden,abd covered it with a shed like a dog kennel,it had four wheels and could be just wheeled away from the saw.
|Thread: Parting off with a 5/6" toolpost|
Why not just grind off some material from the top face of the 8mm tool,no tool will cut correctly if set above centre,a tool below centre will cut as front clearance is increased and top rake is reduced.A blade type tool saves a lot of time as it only needs grinding on the front face,though a hand ground parting tool from hss toolbit was very common years ago,it does have the advantage of side clearance on both sides of the tool which can help with difficult work.
|Thread: Thread identification 5/16 - 38.5 TPI ??|
Usual practice on uk instrument optical work was to use even number BA ,26 and 40 tpi whit form threads. The objective lens thread was/is .8 ins dia by 36 tpi whit form. Nowadays metricated conversion in decimal metric. The use of BA over many industries was common though even number BA become the prefered sizes and no 0 BA was generally replaced by 1/4 BSF, there with some peculiarities A lot of electrical work used odd number BA , I worked for a subsidary of Imperial Typerighters in the mid sixties,Imperial mainly used odd number BA and the subsidary where I worked which Imperial bought out used even no BA, lots of hassle from Imperial trying to get us to change to odd number,as they made all screws inhouse with well over a hundred lathes in the auto shop.
|Thread: Modify ML7 gearbox to do longer lead lengths|
Putting the job out must be better than than risking the cost of a wrecked gear train or gear/box,There was a similar problem with spiral milling where very short leads cause great strain of the gearing ,Browne and Sharpe sold a short lead attachment for their universal milling machines,similar to driving the lathe leadscrew by hand,or to get a steadier drive,make a motorised drive .
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
I have a Colchester master and a S7, a while back I did not use the master for a couple of weeks,when next went to use it the motor was making a loud grumbling sound, my thought was motor bearing on way out. Naughty but I did continue to use it for odd jobs and put up with noise,or used the Myford. then the Myford motor started to rattle,a check round revealed the motor pulley was loose, easily rectified ,the Colchester was left until today,not looking forward to working on the Master as anything in the base is a pig to get at,ok if in a factory,but in the shed up against the wall makes things difficult,removed belts ,run motor ,still noisy,so its motor problem,so after the Myford problem I checked the pulley which is secured by decent sized key and skt head grub screw,its a 5hp motor, screw was stiff so had to be turned with some effort ,only to find the screw could be turned about 5 turns,Tightened and noise problem cured,hooray easy solution for a change, I bought the lathe direct at an ex goverment sale so somebody must have worked on the motor and forgot to tighten it ,I have owned the lathe for a dozen years,one earlier problem was the fan at the other end of the motor came loose which was an utter pig to get at, so why did they decide to come loose after years of running,one thought was ,does running on a static converter cause unusual vibrations , and its strange that the Myford pulley also came loose within a few weeks of the Colchester.both machines around 40 years old.
|Thread: ML7 toolpost - Turns Under Load|
Just a thought,is the thread in the nut square to the locking face of the nut? I once a had a 1960s two stroke engined English built scrambler,it was s/h when I raced it for the first time the centre nut of the clutch kept coming loose,despite someh ard work in the paddock, later found the thread in the nut was not square to the faces,Brand new nut immediatley solved the problem. Various toolposts on my Super 7 have moved but only when taking things to and above the accepted limit, Knurling with single knurls will move a tool post even on my Colchester,though of course a big long ring spanner helps solve the problem,Also intermittent cuts act like an impact driver and will rotate a small toolpost,
|Thread: Planing machine|
The last time I saw a big planer working was when I went with other apprentices to the Machine tool exhibition at Olympia 1964, I recall it was it was a Butler, it was machining a long chunk of steel,with big curls of swarf coming off about a inch wide,impressive,the coolant surged forward every time when the table came to rest,nearly over flowing the end of the table,then it surged to the other end of the table. Bosses were tight in those days on trips like that,no expenses and we had to make up the lost time by working two saturday mornings . Though it was worth it as it was possibly the last time the really big machine tools were exhibited,The Exhibition was held every four years and it must have taken an awful lot of effort to get all those machines assembled and working.When working as an engineer for a multinational I visited it in the 70s & 80s, these times it was all expenses paid and no lost time worries. The last time I saw a planer working was during the early 1970s it was an openside planer in a foundry toolroom, used for facing the larger gravity die blocks,the openside has only one column to support the tool slide,not as rigid as a double column but can take wider work which can over hang the side of the table. Going back to 1964 exhibition,I also remember seeing a 36 inch Butler shaper,and that is an almighty large shaper ,the only one I ever saw. Of course living in the South of this country there were very few works with really large machines so never got much of a chance to seeing them, in action.
|Thread: Surface milling|
I have a couple of industrial quality indexable tip milling cutters,I use them very often with a single insert tip,I use hss flycutters which will produce better finishes ,they are far cheaper and easier to change rake and profile by hand grinding,I even have some expensive artificial diamond insert tips which I used for flycutting ali cylinder heads, they were a gift,its just horses for courses, Though why spend lots of cash on inserts when HSS very often gives better results on the lighter machines used with our hobby. When I started with a ML7& and vertical slide,in the 1960s I did not buy milling cutters ,for all flat faces I used an assortment of home made fly cutters and used worn out hss centre drills as tool bits, and scrounged slot and endmills where slots and grooves were needed,as you progress in engineering, contacts are useful for supplies, and now when I am getting too old,i get more messages "" got a load of tools/ cutters etc do you want them for free" .Redundancy is also beneficial at times lots of usefull stuff can be aquired.
|Thread: Tender locos for a beginner?|
Another more mercenary way to look at model building would be to consider if you finish building a loco or indeed any model,is can it be easily sold at some time in the future,lots of circumstances occurr which can force the model to be sold,it may simply to finance the build of another model.or other reason. Perhaps a chat to dealer might reveal a model or models which is/are popular and saleable, Or find out from the boiler makers,some sample prices,an engine design may look nice,but could have a boiler which is difficult to make. I have always thought that it would be best to build the tender first,the main expense would be the wheel castings and brass sheet for the tank,the rest would be easy to fabricate, If you find that you can build a decent tender,you then carry on with confidence to complete the loco or if you decide engine building is not for you the outlay to gain the experience is relatively small compared to the materials for a loco.
|Thread: Lathe suds drain ideas|
I just wish the sheet metal tray under my Colchester had folded so that the bottom of the tray was sloped towards the the drain hole,so that the coolant would drain away easily instead of leaving the tray with some coolant evenly spread all over the it,leaving the swarf in the coolant.
|Thread: How to be accurate!|
I would not use a digital caliper with knife edge jaws on precision measurements. When machining aluminium at least 15 to 20 degrees of top rake is required,its best to use the smallest nose rad on the tool,that will give a good finish,should there be aluminium build up on the tool tip ,regrind the tool on the top face. If the above is applied there should be no spring on the tool,on small cuts on aluminium. I was taught never to let a tool rub and keep the tool sharp,I never saw anyone where I worked in my early years taking spring cuts,I first came across the mention of spring cuts in the model engineering press,my attitude to that was get the tooling right.If I was boring a small hole my last cut would only be .001/.0015 deep.
|Thread: What air compressor should I buy?|
The compressors from the fae east are Ok mine must be 30 years old,make sure you get a big tank,also make sure the compressor stands level as the lube oii capacity is limited,dont use on a driveway with a steep slope to inflate car tyres,first time my neigbour did it,I managed to to free off the big end which just nipped up,second time he did it the bearing seized solid and scrapped. A friend who started reconditioning motor parts as a business started with A hydrovane and Guyson shotblast cabinet cabinet and expanded to a large walk in unit,and he forever suffered from air suply problems ,he even linked two really serious compressors together,if a shot blast set specifys that it uses x amount of air then double or treble the compressor size.specifiedI think the Hydrovane was popular at one time as it was supposed to not require an air tank,so getting rid of insurance and inspection problems, but my friends Hydrovane could not really keep up with the demand of the Guyson cabinet,increasing the suply pipe diameter using large dia steel water pipe did give the effect of a resevoir which helped a bit.
|Thread: Cuttings an 8tpi thread in free cutting silver steel|
I have seen a similar worm drive on a very early hard drive actuator and that was ground,only one company succeded in producing it. As its to drive a clock why not change material and used leaded mild steel,the finish will be far better than silver steel,a poor finish on silver steel may cause a lot of wear.
|Thread: Machining Cast Iron?|
Cast iron has always been used for backplates,probably since chucks as we know them were invented,most backplates have a smaller diameter boss to contain the thread plus a lot thinner larger diameter to take the chuck,so if a steel sawn blank is used a lot of material ends up in swarf whereas with a cast backplate there is little material waste,cast iron was also cheaper to produce ,and there were lots of foundries in this country.Steel was more expensive as there were far fewer sources of manufacture.And in the days of carbon steel tooling and HSS tooling it was easier and quicker to produce components in cast iron,just think about it threr were no HSS hacksaw blades to cut off thousands of backplates ,Think how long it would take to cut off the blank for a 12 inch chuck.The ability of cast iron to absorb vibration may have been effective on very large backplates ,but on our small machines I would think that the material may not matter though having worked a lot with cast iron I would think that the steel spindle with a cast b/plate is less liable to "stick".Nowadays with fewer foundries ,availability of mild steel with short leadtimes .high speed manufacture with CNC and new cutter material ,for smaller batches of say 4 or 5inch backplates for the hobby market there is probably little advantage of cast iron over steel. I like machining cast iron,did a lot during my apprenticeship,though if machine tols are not kept clean severe wear can occurr particularly in the days before hardened bedways were available, I have seen the bedways on a worn plano mill look like a piece of wood or chair leg that has been scatched for years by a cat,
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