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Member postings for Nigel McBurney 1

Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
02/08/2021 17:50:35

For a good finish on brass,use a flycutter .

Thread: ACME taps and Dies
31/07/2021 19:56:54

recently I had to make 4 nuts for the jack screws fitted to a 100 year old smallish showmans living van.all I had to go on was a very corroded set of parts,the thread was 3/4 x4 tpi square thread, difficult ,so the owner settled to use 5 tpi Acme, as taps were available, The nuts were made from hard hex brass,I used hex as the nut could be held in lathe chuck or bench vise without slipping. The tap from tracy tools was a long tapered tap,I could not tap under power or by hand as the shank was small and a bit expensive to break,so I screwcut a vee thread and started the tap in the lathe to get it square then finished off by hand,not an easy job. Now one word of warning ,holding the tap in the tailstock via an ER collet and pushing it in by hand and when the tap bites let the work drag the tailstock along did not work, the new tap was so sharp that it did not pull the tailstock along,it stood still and the flanks of the thread acted like a boring tool turned the thread in the brass away,one scrap nut.so it was a case of pushing the tailstock along really hard and cutting a minimal amount of thread before resulting to using a very long tapwrench,the steel screw EN 8 was threaded in the lathe by single point tool ,the work supported by the travelling steady. The real problem with the job was the course pitch and the rather small diameter. For my own hobby work I would have made the correct square thread but it would not economical commercially,I have made square thread screws and nuts cut entirely on the lathe where the pitch was finer and the diameter greater eg the brake screws on a full sze TEs and and a threaded shaft for the sluice gate in a water meadow.

Thread: Allchin 1 1/2” scale Traction Engine Shaft Manufacture
31/07/2021 19:19:50

I made mine over 50 years ago,so without loctite or other adhesives, I milled 4 equi spaced slots and fitted mild steel keys ,they were secured by long rivets,nowadays I would use high strength Loctite, or machine the keys out of solid,which if I remember correctly W hughes suggested machine from solid in his write up in ME.

Thread: is a belt sander any good for hss tooling
28/07/2021 09:29:08

I had a uk built RHJ 4inch belt sander, did not think much of it certainly would not sharpen tools on it,Where I worked donkeys years ago they had big disc linishers, cast iron disc about 16 inches dia with emery discs glued on ,with a cast iron work table at 90 degrees to the disc,these gave a good flat finish to iron castings,plus trimming up brass castings,far better than a belt linisher, but replaceable belts must be cheaper to maintan/operate,Far better finnish than the belt sander I had at home. The disc sanders were never used to sharpen tools,and I would not use any type of sander to sharpen hss tooling,sharpen hss with grey or white wheels on a bench grinder ,white wheels on tool and cutter grinders.

Thread: Rebuilding car trailer and welding/bolting galvanized frame
27/07/2021 12:19:49

I would not weld to a galvanised chassis,welding and zinc do not mix,when grinding the zinc coating off I have found that the zinc appears to have penetrated into the base steel and it takes further grinding into the base material to get clean material,this is ok with say 10mm thick plate,but the welding will still spit and bang occasionally,so use bolted construction and only drill holes into the centre line of the channel, do not drill the flanges of the channel,it will serious ly weaken them, If you are converting to a box trailer the way to stiffen the trailer is to make sides from angle iron ,welded at the corners then fill the frame with 12 mm ply and make it a really tight fit so that it becomes a girder section, on light trailers the weakest point is where the trailer "box" meets the drawbar and it may pay to to add some plate to the channel section drawbar , make sure the wheel bearings are well greased and get a spare wheel nearly all trailer problems are old tyres and bearings failing. Also make sure that you inform the car insurance company that you have a tow bar fitted,they are regarded as accessories. some time ago I checked with Direct line about my Discovery ,although it had been fitted from new with a towbar Direct line needed to know,as they regard it as an accessory and must be declared,and updated the policy though there was no extra cost .

Thread: You could not make it up ! [Olympic Cycling]
26/07/2021 14:28:18

Only ever been interested in two wheel sport,even better with an engine in the frame,absolutely fed up this summer,with tv time flooded with,footballers who cant kick,tennis and now olympics,just saw a few minutes of mountain biking this morning,and then its over, other sports get hours,Tom Piddock really showed how it was done,when I was a lad(mid 1950s) ,we used to make up track push bikes and ride round the local chalkpits,I was 15or 16 when I made a pair of spring pivoted link front forks similar to the DOT motor cycles they worked well until a bolt sheared,could have been nasty if I had been riding fast on the road. And then watching last weekend F1 grand prix, and Hamilton getting penalised for racing hard. Getting a bit like the days when MS ran into David Coulthards rear end and then said it was Davids fault. Verstappens driving has been getting harder and he played it a bit rough and then complained,tough luck.

Thread: Chinese drip feed oilers
23/07/2021 15:53:26

Be aware that some of these oilers are made from steel pressings and brass plated,no problem with lathe lubricators as they are rarely polished when cleaning the lathe,though when used on stationary engines and polished regularly the brass plating soon disappears.

Thread: Centre Drill Leaves a “Pip” - Sometimes
23/07/2021 15:40:44

Common practice in my early days 1950/60s was was to mark out , then centre punch with a small punch (prick punch) using eyeglass to position punch by sliding point of punch along one scribed line until it met the other marking line.then with centre drill in a drill chuck on a drilling machine position the centre drill over punch mark and drill the hole.Never saw or heard of a spoting drill and never used a Bridgeport type mill with quill as the company did not have one.most of the material drilled was thick bright mild,brass and ali castingstypical instrument making where accuracy was important and no complaints about the centre drills. Next job was making prototypes for making printers and converting typewriters to electronic operation mid 60s. There the company approach was different,it was all thin steel prototype pressings, so holes were again accurately marked out but then drilled with a small twist drill,and for bigger holes a larger twist drill used to follow up.no problem with hole positions and quicker, In the 1970s I was a procurement engineer on early hard drives,lots of small holes at really tight positional tolerances mainly in gravity die cast aluminium ,some in machined surfaces other holes in as cast surfaces and a lot of them tapped,with a very resolute company policy problems with hole positioning became nightmare, by then two axis punched paper tap was the main control systems , and various spotting drills were tried to stop drill wander particularly on cast surfaces. And thats how it continued,into full cnc control times with the spotting drills with no flutes and a very stiff flat sided point ,it was just a very high spindle speed and a lighting quick feed that kept things going ,centre drill spossible would not have stood up to the production rate running at 24/7.Since those days I have found that on a good turret mill ordinary twist drills will drill directly in without any form of pilot drilling without wobble , I have some 10mm spotting drills ,though they only get used for boring bar tool bits and deburring holes. I have no problem with centre drills, though even my stock of centre drills is at least 30 years old and made in England perhaps the old ones were ground better than the moder oriental ones. The cause of centre drills wandering and leaving a pip may be the lack of the centre pop before drilling and poor spindle bearings in the drilling machine. I did try some time ago drilling a hole 6mm diameter into flat bright mild steel, In my Fobco the drill tended to wander ,in the Large Elliot Milmor the drill went straight in without any wander,with both spindles in good condition . It just shows how much stiffer and rigid a mill is compared to a drilling machine, I tried this experiment as I had a commercial job where I could save time drilling direct to size without resorting to marking out ,and spot drilling, or making drill jigs.

Thread: Can't get the hang of HSS!
14/07/2021 19:42:52

HSS tools Start with zero top rake,then clearance ground on the front and side, then with an india oilstone polish out the grinding marks on the side and front clearance,then stone a small rad on the front of the tool then just place the stone on the flat top of the tool,and rub the tool for a few strokes to remove any burrs,No top rake is required, if the side/front clearance has been ground hollow due to the radius of the wheel then only polish the top i/2 mm to get a good edge on the toolbit. Beginners tend to not keep the stone flat agaist the surface to be stoned and let the stone roll and spoil the cutting edge. Dont worry about self act feeds, wind the saddle along by hand and get a feel for the tool doing the cutting if its hard work/poor finish then the tool is blunt. When I started my training the first lathe I used was a Lorch plain lathe,no self act feed just learn to wind the handles steadily,then came the Boxford,self act feed was rarely used,the engagement clutch was a pain and it was quicker,with hand feeding the saddle.Then there was a German large plain lather,when finishin turning microscope eye piece tubes,it was a case of top speed of around 3000 rpm on plain bearings and spin the top side quickly,8 1/2 hour day you soon learnt to keep the tools sharp as there was also the chance that your next job could be polishing the tubes on the polishing mop, and the better the turning the easier it was to polish.Horible job polishing. Not a carbide tool in sight in the late 1950s and no need for one on brass.

Thread: How important are odd-sized milling cutters? (Clarkson vs ER)
12/07/2021 09:58:38

The shank sizes on Clarkson cutters do not relate to the cutter diameter, so eg a 7/16 cutter will have a 1/2 inch shank to fit the Clarkson collet. so cutters from the minimum to 3/4 dia can be held in the 4 sizes of Clarkson collets.Previous to the Clarkson collet chuck there many different systems for holding cutters and depending a lot the milling machine manufacturer and most collets sytems had faults mainly with cutters pulling out and cutting deeper, the Clarkson system allowed their cutter to be used on the majority of machines as Clarkson holders were available for many different spindle types. My employer where I started work swore by the Clarkson system and said it solved most of the problems with holding cutters. I expect the demand for collet type systems was due to the development of cnc machines and automatic tool changers where a Clarkson holder would not be easy to grip in the tool changer,plus the increasing use of solid carbide cutters which only had plain shanks, I found the collets used on Bristol Erickson tooling would slip where as the ER collet maintains an execellent grip ,though if I have a job which is really tough steel I go back to Clarkson on my mill, Er collets also have the advantage of gripping any size twist of twist drill ,countersinks, centre drills ,where as on the Clarkson system a tool maker would thread a length of silver steel to suit the Clarkson collet and then drill a hole in the rod and solder in a centre drill,otherwise it meant that the Clarkson holder had to be removed and another type of holder ie drill chuck had to be put in the spindle,I was once given the contents of a deceased toolmakers kit and their were numerous fly cutters he had made to fit the Clarkson collets,Clarkson really excelled on production runs, The need to quickly change tooling for toolmaking was possibly why the Bridgeport and it R8 collet came so popular with toolmakers. For a Myford a ER collet system would be a good move either with 2mt fitting or a spindle nose fitting, I think that the expensive myford 2mt collets should only be used for work holding,they are precision collets and to maintain that precision should not be used for holding milling cutters,I only use my Myford collets for work holding, Though back in the sixties when I had my first Myford which was new and also had all new tooling I did all the milling on an Allchin TE with the cutters held in the 4 inch Burnerd 3 jaw chuck ,the work was very light so there was no slipping of cutters in the chuck .

Thread: More security for the shed
12/07/2021 09:16:09

Local police advice was Lock valueable tools in a tool locker bolted to floor. If possible arrange power to shed so that it can be locked off or can be switched off from inside your home,thieves then have no light or use your power tools to cut locks. protect tools of good make thieves apparently do not go for poor cheap makes which are difficult to sell on. From friends experience watch out for builders & tradesmen working on adjacent property some are dishonest,delivery drivers, they are nosey and pass on info to thieves,keep your shed doors shut and contents out of sight. Heating oil is difficult to protect insurance is not much use,theft of oil is regarded as contents ,damage to tank is regarded as property ,so the excess you pay is doubled !!!

Thread: end milling does my Doreen needs a blast
09/07/2021 10:15:34

Whats wrong with soluble oil,its cheap,and works either applied by brush or a tank and pump. Compressed air will blow fine swarf particles into the slide ways ,and slideways will soon wear out,Modern industrial machines are designed to cope with various coolant problems , small hobby machines are not nor are older UK machines.Cnc machines use coolant systems to cool the work and to remove the large volume of swarf produced.Forget about using compressed air. Is the use of carbide tooling without a cooling lubricant a good idea,the work piece will heat up, expand so accurate measurements cannot be taken until the work cools,so keep it cool in the first place. When machining cast iron coolant is not required ,and clean the lathe/mill of cast swarf before switching to a material that needs coolant as soluble oil will cause the iron swarf to rust and difficult to remove and not do the machine any good.

Thread: advice old British motorcycle
08/07/2021 20:15:53

When I had a Royal Enfield trials bike,the supposedly quickly detachable lighting set was definitely not quick and in 1960 most trials riders also had to use their bikes to get too work,so I bought a BSA C11 G ,250 OHV rigid for a couple of weeks wages, excellent starter(coil ignition) good forks ,the rest was crap,lousy brakes which lock up the back wheel by only just touching the pedal,and a front one that had no stopping power .road holding was dangerous it got scrapped when the dynamo/battery / control box all failed,the forks and front wheel were fitted to a friends 197 Norman trials bike as early Normans had crap forks. So it was back to riding my push bike to work until I had a great misfortune by going off course in a trials section and into deep water over the engine,it was at Bordon Hants which is very sandy so the engine got filled uo with sandy water. A drain out and rebore and a quick trade in for a brand new 250 Greeves Scottish with q/d lights ,when I sold the Greeves 3 1/2 years later the Enfield was still in the dealers showroom, too many spectators saw me drown the bike and ride off in cloud of smoke,The Greeves on trials tyres had far better road holding,brakes etc than that awful BSA, It was bikes like that BSA that got motor cycling a dangerous reputation.

Thread: Tool post height
08/07/2021 19:44:01

At my first job ,there was a Boxford,with four way toolpost,all hss tools in those days, right pain in backside with endless shimming though it was rigid , when I bought my Myford I never considered a 4 way, I just copied a Drummond tool post,a single holder clamped on a round post,worked well,with no shims, when I had to earn a bit of cash in later years ,to be competative I bought a quick change toolholder with 6 holders,that noticeablely speeded up the lathe setting and operation,though it is not so rigid. When I aquired a taper turning attachment for tapered threads my hss thread chasers were too big for the q/c toolholders I went back and used the original Myford tool clamp, and when taper turning the top slide has to be set parallel to the cross slide, I chase threads by feeding at 90 degrees to the work , Usually when threading phosphor bronze the chasers can deflect down, With the single clamp and the cross slide in line with cross slide there is vast improvement when machining phos bronze fittings for bsp threads,I think that with top slide in this position there is no tendency to tilt the top slide across the V ways, the strain is taken over most of the length of the slideways. I do not have a taper turning attachment for my Colchester so the Myford has to take a bit extra load than normal.

Thread: advice old British motorcycle
07/07/2021 19:30:39

get a opy of "old bikemart " subscription only monthly £ 2,20 a copy look up www.oldbikemart.co.uk trade and private sales ,plus spares,services and news of current events auto jumbles etc plus a bit of reading. My choice of bike would be Ajs or Matchless prices for these are lower than Triumph ,BSA ,Velocette, Dealer prices tend to be higher than private sales, BSAs have got dearer in recent years. My advice is buy a complete a bike as possible,genuine tinware can be difficult to find,also it can cost a lot in time / money searching for bits at auto jumbles.Avoid boxes of bits there is always a vital unobtainable part missing, good luck.I really like the lightweights so my choice would be a Greeves roadster 250 ,twin

Thread: Shock at low pay for high skill
06/07/2021 09:32:06

The recent references I heard in the news was the ridiculous high wages that underground railway drivers got,highly unionised,threatof a strike paralyses London so unions have clout. An estimator that I dealt with at south London engineering company many years ago told me that when he worked in the 1930s a skilled turner would get about £2 a week and as he put it a tram driver with no skill got £3 aweek,times dont change.Mainline driving is no doubt different,lots info/books on lives of steam loco drivers/fireman and others.Good wages and extras for drivers but this could all be lost very quickly due to health problems or if some of the multitude of rules were broken,a driver could easily be demoted to a poorly paid shed job,No chance of driving for another Rail company.

Thread: Milling machine in the (wood floored) workshop
04/07/2021 09:39:39

Why not just thicken the whole floor,this would allow future repositioning of the machines. Suggest thicken the whole floor with four sheets of 18mm shutterring ply which is the cheapest ply and thenput down on top four sheets of a better quality 18mm ply to provide a better surface . Dont worry too much about the machines weight 350 kg is nothing in terms of machine tools and easily moved with a crowbar,at one time I had a S7 in an upstairs bedroom,16 inch pitch joist with 20mm t and g floor boards ,no problems with stability or accuracy.

Thread: Strimmer /BrushCutter … any recommendations ?
03/07/2021 10:20:56

I use a Ariens wheeled strimmer/brush cutter with 6 hp 4 stroke engine,push it on big wheels like a lawn mower,as an ordinary strimmer sods my back, now even a machine like this will not cut thick brambles,brambles it destroys the thickest cords. a heavy commercial brush cutter with a harness which with a steel blade will cut up to 30mm stems needs a strong operator,we once borrowed a Husquavarna which really attacked rough scrub with a steel blade.Using a ride on mower on brambles will wreck it. Starting and carb problems with modern petrol is a nightmare,modern carbs have little or no adjustment due to the green emmisions lobby, Some chainsaw users fit carbs from old scrap chainsaws onto new machines as they run better and start easier. My last new Stihl chainsaw ,was a pig to start and now I have got to old to pull on the cord so gave it away and bought a Stihl battery chainsaw,expensive but is instant start and reliable and will cut a 7 inch oak log. A friend who repairs contractors and domestic garden machinery despairs at the way operators just beat their machines to death, latest comment from him was an upmarket mower with cast rollers came in with a smashed roller on asking him how on hell did that get broken ,reply from contractors operator " did not have a ramp so pushed it off the back of the truck"

Thread: Is buying a custom ground tool my only option??
01/07/2021 09:54:12

To form accurate circular grooves I have made an adaptor for the lathe tool post which holds milling cutters ,the type which were used on horizontal mill arbours with a one inch bore,these were available with full form internal and external forms ,good used ones can be found at s/h tool dealers or auto jumbles ,usually very cheap as there is little demand .

Thread: dirty clutch trick
01/07/2021 09:11:49

The 42 inch deck drive on my mower is a tight /slack belt clutch, the belt, which recently broke after 16 years. there was no real wear on the pulleys and thats with a 17 hp Kawazaki ,who would have thought that when I was a youngster that lawn mowers in the future would have 17 hp v twins. regarding the myford clutch my S7 clutch has been ok for near 50 years with the original drive belts.

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