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Member postings for Nigel McBurney 1

Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Seal selection
19/10/2021 12:20:59

When I rode in trials on uk two strokes 60 years ago,the sealed wheel bearings did not last very long,some of current riders in pre 65 trials have added an extra neopriene seal out board of the bearing with some success, and if memory serves me correctly I believe that my 69 Bultaco had seals between hub and a bush on the spindle to help keep the water out,a mag does not get that much mud but will get a lot of rainwater and 3000rpm is an awful lot faster than a motor cycle wheel. If the ht leads are "live" then there should be a rubber cap which is a tight fit on the lead and the pick up to keep out of the mag,I found some of these rubber caps on a web site selling BTH mag spares,I required one to keep any rain water from the mag of a restored stationary engine. In those days it was difficult to keep water out of Villiers engine electrics and carbs with cut up inner tubes and plastacine,lot easier nowadays with modern sealants.

Thread: Hi all, newbie with first lathe, rare one i think.
17/10/2021 19:35:47

I would be looking at a minimum of a two HP motor to drive your lathe ,thats a big headstock to drive,plus cut metal,the multiple drive pulley indicates that it originally had a good size motor.I would not try to get a high spindle speed,if it is ww2 ,a spindle speed would not been much over 750 rpm. In the 1950s a 8inch Wilson lathe i worked on had a top speed of 440 rpm and a 41/2 Boxford was only 1450 rpm.

Thread: Vfd and motor efficiency
12/10/2021 20:07:58

on my Elliott 00 omnimill I changed the vertical head motor from 0.75 hp to 1.5 hp with inverter drive,big improvement I would say that for a milling head with a 3mt spindle and a high top speedof over 3000 rpm 1.5 hp is a minimum. I considered a 2 hp motor but being larger it would foul the round overarm.

Thread: t-bar material advice
11/10/2021 14:06:10

All my tommy bars for,toolmakers clamps,tailstock die holders,box spanners, etc are made from silver steel,just as it comes no further heat treatment. just cut to length and face off and then turn a small rad,each end,to save your hands, Currently restorng a Ruston Hornsby stationary engine and doing the water cooling plumbing in 3/4 in bsp steel pipe, threading with a 3/4 bsp die in a large tail stock dieholder ,tommy bar for that is 12 mm silver steel.One curious thing I found with tommy bars was the pair of M&W toolmakers clamps I bought during my apprenticeshiop would not take 1/8 in dia silver in the tommy bar hole,and we only used imperial silver steel in those days,later on I found that the holes took 3mm s/steel, and metric steel was in stock a couple of job later, why in those imperial days were M&W making tools that had metric tommy bar holes, 3/32 ins the readily available size down bent easily so 1/8 dia was reduced in dia to fit.

Thread: Model of an epicyclic gear made by apprentices
05/10/2021 10:17:31

Reading about Blackstone engines,and crankcase explosions I am glad that my two Blackstones are open crank,

Thread: Gas engine
05/10/2021 10:09:51

I run 2 Gardner engines an no 0 and a no 1 on propane and a small National ,I use a two regulator set up one for the engine ,the other for the hot tube. each regulator has a pressure gauge,I find 3/4 to 11/2 psi works, the burner uses gas pressure of about 3 psi.the gas air mixture is critical ,too rich or too weak and then the mixture will not fire,unlike a petrol engine which will run with a rich or weak air fuel mixture though with lots of smoke or pops and bangs. The separate gas supply for the burner is used as the induction stroke from the engine can drain the gas supply and extinguish the tube burner. most gas engines run on three valves ,air inlet, gas inlet,and exhaust the governing being on the operation of the gas valve ie hit and miss, my wifes Stuart 600 was designed to run on gas or petrol ,it has the usual 3 valves for operation on gas,the governor hit and missing on the gas inlet valve,when running on pertrol the governor control to the gas inlet valve is disconnected and the governor operates the carburreter slide.Be careful with very thin hot tubes they can burst so dont look directly down the tube chimney, I have seen a tube burst ,hot bits of chimney hit the shed ceiling when a friend operated his 1/2 size model and a no 0 . tough he did make very thin tubes which do run better.

Thread: Crankshaft Factory
04/10/2021 09:38:33

Despite all the modern manufacturing tecniques ,L/R Discovery 6 cylinder diesel crankshafts break all to often , new engines are well over £10k,

Thread: Old rule divisions twelfs etc
28/09/2021 18:31:37

some of my older steel rules, have eigths,sixteenths on one edge and the opposite edge is divided into twelfs ,twenty forths and 48 ths, one of these rules is dated 1959 ( ex WD) what was measured in twelfs etc I have never seen a dwg using these fractions what industries used these fractions.printing is a possibility.

Thread: Chatter/finish problem
27/09/2021 19:24:02

Have a look at the workholding ,is the bar held firmly in the chuck jaws? From the photo the new chuck appears to be a self centering 4 jaw chuck, not the best way to hold work, I would never dream of using this type of chuck they are ok for woodturners. Never seen one used in a trade shop. And do not assume that a new chuck has perfect jaws to grip the work along the length of the jaws, I have seen a new european made 6 inch 3 jaw chuck where the jaws were bellmouthed ,due to poor manufacture. The tool looks suitable for brass ,though is there sufficient front and side clearance plus tools for brass turning must be sharp and honed with an India oil stone,some grades of brass can be difficult to turn and get a good finish, try going fast in top speed and take cuts of around 5 thou.The very rough cuts look as though they have been taken at very slow speed with tool set to take a far too great a depth of cut, like screw cutting to full depth at one cut only worse,that will not do the lathe much good.

Thread: Stuart engine paint colours
22/09/2021 20:52:43

Hi I painted my wifes Stuart 600 horizontal o/c petrol engine with navy blue enamel,looks very nice.

Thread: Myford ML7 accuracy
16/09/2021 10:53:00

quite an attack on the S7,particularly it drive system,my S7 about 48 yrs old,has been an excellent machine,the motor pulleys and belts are original, the top speed is good at around 2000rpm,the Eglish made motor runs well and its swich gear, an even older MK 13 amp metal clad socket totally reliable, there is nothing wrong with a good tapered bronze bearing,some of the very best plain lathes use them, never experienced any spindleproblems or vibration, any machine tool needs to be looked after,its the ham fisted with no mechanical sense who wreck any tool or machine.For jewellry or instrument turning a Boxford is ok though the top speed is bit low and considerably cheaper,though when I bought my S7 a new Boxford was far far more expensive.Another option would be an used plain lathe, if required just to turn parts for jewellery,a Smart and Brown plain lathe can be bought quite cheaply and they are superb machines if you dont know what a plain lathe is look up Lathes UK website,they are often overlooked because they cannot screwcut but who wants screwcutting when making jewellery, the long top and cross slides with large handles which spin so easily in ones hands,nearly all will be 3 phase.

Thread: What to drive a J & S with ?
10/09/2021 16:27:13

I had worked with J &S at work and they were fine and well respected machines,,I bought a used one at auction whena company went bust and had been in use and had an overhaul a little while before I bought it, I ran it off a rotary convertor,now this converter is still in use ,and has been used to drive a turret mill ,Meddings drill,A & S horizontal mill ,Do ALL bandsaw,S & B lathe,without problem, but I could never get a really good finish on the work. Then a friend called and advised that there was a good 540 for sale by a company he had sold the 540 very cheap,so I bought it and had similar problems with finish, also a Colchester 2000 did have finish problems on a separate static conveter,I jury rigged a temporary single phase motor to the 2000 and the finish improved.Health and down sizing saw the 2000,and the J & S sold, so I never solved the problem,just by chance I met someone last week end who has a good workshop including a 540 and he runs it with two vfds,bought from far east and programmed by him , the 540 runs well on the vfds, sp I think the VFD is the way to go. I now run a Elliott 00 and have fitted a Newton Tesla motor/vfd package and it has been a success,some of the problems may have been due to living in the sticks with supply by overhead lines. If a rotary converter is chosen,then I would recomend a Transwave unit,I have used ther makes of converter but consider the Transwave to be the best,

Thread: Threading myth .... busted!
06/09/2021 14:24:32

According to early workshop practice,threads were cut with a tool with side rake and the cross slide set over,the thead was cut and then finished with a thread chaser,either hand held or clamped in the tool holder,These old chasers were carbon steel,so were all the cutting tools,and most dims were measured using fixed joint calipers and a rule,my neighbour over 50 years ago still owned the workshop where he and his father before him had a large shed which held a lot of machine tools plus capacity to keep four traction engines under cover and space to maintain others. ,the smallest lathe was 6 inch capacity with screw cutting by change wheels,and driven by belt from the overhead shafting or by a big treadle,the owner explained that the treadle was often used for small jobs as it saved all the hassle getting the big big electric motor going with the extensive line shafting. the lathes were really old ,the crosslide v ways were set below the level of the top of the saddle,possibly making it easier to mount jobs on the saddle for boring. the various features indicated build around 1880s .I have a carbon steel chaser with the name Joseph Whitworth stamped on the shank,chasers went back a long way. I myself being trained as an instrument maker where chasing direct without single point tools was the usual way for cutting threads, and I now have a good range of HSS machine chasers for screw cutting direct into brass and steel, though I have hss and carbide single point tools . Though you have to be quick and coordinated to withdraw the chaser and disengage the half nuts when working up to a shoulder.All the various methods of screwcutting have there use,it all depends on material,equipment available,and skill of the operator.

Thread: Need some help/advice
03/09/2021 20:51:11

A 6 inch English Abwood vice is very heavy,depends on age nd fitness to lift it onto the mill, I use a 4 inch vice on my Elliott 00 omnimill.

Thread: Scribing with verniers
31/08/2021 20:54:55

I started in the 1950s and am definitely old school and I dont see anyting wrong with that ,and why not most of the models we build are based on engines ,machinery etc which may have been made donkeys years ago and the castings and materials are nearly all similar, I would for a start never never use a vernier with pointed jaws for marking out, a scribed line needs some depth so that it can be felt bythe point of a prick punch (smaller than a centre punch) where the punch touches the point where two lines meet thats when you hit the punch or if you doing a very precise job check the position of the punch point with an eye glass. marking out machined parts and surfaces can be carried out with a surface gauge ,a more precise method is to use a vernier height gauge with a wide chisel like edge more modern ones have carbide scribing edge, marking out castings to establish datum lines and machining allowances use a surface gauge, to set the height make sure the rule is held vertical or use the square and rule from a combination Andrew I prefer to measure accurate dims with a micrometer rather than a vernier, and still prefer non digital vernier and height gauge ,more reliable in the long term than digital.

Thread: Mounting stuff to a Faceplate
31/08/2021 10:12:55

I prefer Jasons type of clamp with a jacking screw which cannot fly off.Now if you have not used a face plate before,then there can be problems, Face plates are relatively thin and the work piece may be stiffer than the faceplate so over tightening of the clamps may distort the plate,when the work is mounted ,the work may be off set sowill need balancing,one of the photos shows change gears being used as balance weights,before switching on the lathe motor bring up the saddle and tool to the work and rotate the work by hand to ensure that it does not foul the saddle or tool holder,and where possible bring the tool up to where it will finish the cut and again check to see if the f/plate without fouling anything. then start using a very slow speed to see if the work rotates freely without spindle balance problems and increase the speed until it is just under the point where the lathe shakes, avoiding vibration is far more important than reaching the ideal cutting speed,if say when using HSS which has a cutting speed of around 80 ft per minute on cast iron it does not matter if the speed is below out of balance gives say a cutting speed of 50 fpmin it just takes longer to do the job,out of balance can cause problems such as out of roundness and damage to the lathe. It was lot easier for my generation who did apprentice ships and saw operations such as this carried out by more skilled workers,though I did see someone catch a clamp with the saddle and dump the work and clamps on the shop floor. I do not like like loose blocks under clamps , I prefer to use aluminium or steel blocks which have tapped holes so the block can be attached to the face plate via a bolt from the back. sub plate can be used with lots of tapped holes but they reduce the space available between the face plate and the gap in a gap bed lathe. If I want to skim say a brake disc,I have the table part from an old rotary table which has t slots and lots of tapped holes,this is held in the 4 jaw chuck and if the work has to be really parallel I give the old table a light skim ,have done a lot of brake discs and other parts on this fixture .

Thread: Ok to grease Myford feedscrews?
31/08/2021 09:38:19

During my training no one applied grease to any feed or leadscrews on any machine,and before any screwcutting you were expected to clean any swarf from the screw with a stiff brush and give the screw a couple of shots of oil from an oil can, 30 sae oil in those days,I use multi grade motor oil 20/50 on all my home machinery, one thing that I have found is straight 30 formulated for vintage cars of the 1920s does not mix with soluble oil .it causes my Colchester saddle to be stiff when when travelling along the bed, runs perfectly on multigrade. Even with my near fifty year old Myford where the leadscrew is also a feed screw I just use multigrade motor oil ,Castrol gtx, and I have no wear on the screws,though I do clean the leadscrew with an old tooth brush before oiling,though I rarely use the leadscrew for saddle feed, I prefer to feed by hand with saddle handwheel this keeps the lead screw accurate for screw cutting , regarding the Tecalamit oil gun supplied new with my S7 mine lasted for around 40 years and it was also used on the oil nipples on my Elliott mill and J & S 540 grinder cross I had no problems with my oiler it just wore out. If anyone aquire a 540 grinder,do not grease the the nipple on the cross feed hand wheel,it will stop the auto feed working, a J&S service engineer tonce old me that he had very many calls to fix the feed mechanism and all were due to grease being used,also the feedmechanism has a banana shaped bronze link if this is fitted upside down the feed only operates in one direction.

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2021
24/08/2021 21:03:51

A long time go a fellow club member died and his stationary engines came up for sale ,I bought a Blackstone and my wife bought a Stuart 600 petrol engine ,so I gave it some running to sort out the governor springs and water cooling pipe work,it was restored a year ago but as there were no shows we decided to let the paintwok have a long time to dry,then this week gave it a long run of 2.5 hours ,went well,very steady with no coughs ,splutters or other trouble,used 2 pints of petrol which I thought was quite good,will have to run it on the high grade petrol which currently has a minimum of ethanol,I am expecting some future problems with ethanol,as one of my larger engines refused to start the carbs jet is blocked even though I ran the carb dry last year when run on 5% ethanol.When I show my engines they usually have a run time of 6 hours so a long bedding down run is essential beforehand at home.

Thread: Is there such a thing as an 'external reamer'?
23/08/2021 11:56:12

bear in mind that end feeding tools such as hollow mills were mainly used on capstan and autos where the turret was far more rigid than a centre lathe tailstock,and by the time that a suitable tool is found ,bought at some cost,and set up and tried out ,it is far quicker to turn a dozen or so parts by the normal centre lathe practice,the one snag with short spigots turned from bar as in the photo is that when trying to use a mikcrometer is that the mike frame gets in the way,and a vernier has to be used,which is not as accurate as a mike. I have used hollow mills on a Ward 2a and never really liked them particularly when trying to hold fine limits on diameter over lots of components.

Thread: Taper reaming
17/08/2021 09:04:41

Be careful when reaming with a tapered reamer,the flutes quickly fill with swarf so withdraw the reamer to clear the swarf more frequently than when using parallel reamers. use a lubricant when reaming,sluble oil,lubricating oil,or in tough materials Rocol helps,

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