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Member postings for Nigel McBurney 1

Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: boxford model aud
17/08/2014 09:56:21

Boxford running slow,playing about with motors and belts is NOT the solution,and a well lubricated Boxford will run in very cold conditions ,the problem is that the headstock will not rotate correctly,so do something about the spindle before the belts or motor are ruined, the lathe is pushing 50 years old and its about time the spindle was stripped the bearings washed out and fresh grease applied,its not a mangel or lawn mower its a precision spindle that requires care and maintenance. It must be in poor condition for it to nearly refuse to turn when cold, Many readers well past retirement must remember wintertime in factory workshops where a pullover plus a jersey then an overall was the norm,and the heating minimal ,the Boxford in the factory where I worked was new in the early fifties and very often ran all day probably averaging 25 to 30 hours per week ,of course in the early cold mornings nobody switched a machine on at full chat,it was switch on at a reasonable speed for a few minutes,and there were no problems with the Boxford on very cold days,when it was at least twelve years old the headstock was stripped and washed out and greased,as a precaution ,it gave good service and was an excellent machine. On machines with enclosed lubricated headstocks and gearboxes ,if they have pumped lubrication it is ok to run them slow for a while,if they rely on splash lubrication then on a cold start they should be run at a reasonable speed to ensure the oil splashes everwhere.

I think the younger generations are nowadays too used to machines /appliances which run for a specified life with no maintenance,who last used a grease gun on a car? Most small machine tools used by modellers are based on 1940/1950s designs which required regular care and a fair amount of mechanical knowledge on the part of the user,they do not run for ever.

Thread: Vibration
13/08/2014 14:50:14

Hi I read all the threads and have just looked at the Warco website,to read the lathe spec and price £1500 you should not do anything further to the lathe ,you should write a letter (not phone or email)to Warco insisting that the machine is replaced or the money refunded as it is obviously not fit for purpose under the sale of goods act. My suspicion is that the inverter drive could be at fault as how could an out of balance circular shaft vibrate at a certain speed range, vibration within normal speed ranges on a lathe gets worse as the speed increase usually due to an out of balance workpiece in the chuck or face plate , I have a Colchester Triumph 2000 powered by a phase static converter a big machine for the home workshop,when turning as opposed to facing, the finish has traces of vibration marks ,after changing the aluminium framed motor for cast iron framed motor this did improve the finish,I was told that converters work better with iron framed motors, then to find the source I rigged up a drive from a large single phase motor which eliminated the vibration, I live out in the sticks and voltage is a bit low as my lathe is a fairway from the supply which runs down our road, I did have the transformer in the converter rewound to compensate for the voltage drop but there was no improvement, I never bothered to proceed any further as a mains 3phase supply was quoted at 3 to 4 £k and another makers converter was also expensive and I live with the problem as a lot of my work is facing,rather than long shafts, one further thought is is the supply to your to your lathe at the correct voltage,?your problem being within a section of speed range could be electrical and it may be the mains supply or the lathes inverter system, also check the supply voltage in the evening,where I am I have to put my welder up a notch as soon as it gets dark and neighbours are cooking their evening meal.

Thread: Mind the Gap ! How much play in an axle ?
04/08/2014 09:48:37

The flywheel should be a very good fit on the shaft,with no clearance,if made a running fit the grubscrew will pull the flywheel out of true when tightened, Start by facing the hub of the flywheel hasting ,ensuring the tool is dead on centre height so that no central pip is left, a pip will push the centre drill off centre, centre drill then drill 5.5 mill for about 4 mm deep,then get a very small boring tool and bore the hole to 6.2 this will produce a round true running hole to ensure that the reaming size drill 6.2 or 6.3mm will start dead on centre,then drill through and then ream to size. this should give a good fit on silver steel, note mild steel rod is always slightly undersize so silver steel is best,avoid stainless steel it is not a good material to run in bearings. if you have new drills or reamers ,drill and ream a couple of hole in some mild steel as very often new drills and reamer cut slightly oversize and a couple of practice holes will take minute grinding burrs off the reamer, Drill and ream cast iron dry, ream steel with a shot of oil from an oilcan on the reamer. Take time and care there is nothing worse than a wobbly flywheel

Thread: What metal could this be?
01/08/2014 18:20:28

hi The carriage is possibly magnesium and plated with electroless nickel,Early files with linear actuators,used ball slides on hardened steel rods ,later on ball races ran on hard ceramic rods ,though a number of files had rotary actuators, ,I never saw a bar as you described in a Hursley designed actuator, How big are the discs in this file? I have never seen the original US designed Winchester file. Lots and lots of problems with all files as one might expect in leading edge technology, Regarding mechanical manufacture,one problem were the very tight tolerances required,and it took a long time before very good cnc machines were available not only to reliably achieve the tolerances but to also make parts at an economical cost.Thermal expansion is another problem ,files used to get hot and expand and the design has to cater for the heads to register with the disc tracks within a temperature range. Your rod is the brainchild of some scientist somewhere and unless you had the dwg and specification you will have trouble finding out what it is,as there were many wierd and wonderful parts and materials used in files.

Thread: Avoiding marks on work.?
27/07/2014 11:03:30

avoid the use of shim,of any material , I once saw at work an operator on the next machine to me get get his finger cut quite badly from a piece of shim used to protect the work ,it was going round in the chuck like a bacon slicer,he never did it again and neither did I ,I always use pieces of brass or aluminium which are at least 1.5 mm thick and the edges are heavily deburred with a file, another snag with shim in larger chucks,particularly four jaws is that the serrations on the jaws indent the shim and still mark the work.

regarding work in vices, where I was apprenticed all the bench vices had the hardened jaws surface ground flat, provided the jaws are kept free of filings the work does not get marked ,essential for instrument and model making ,I noticed over the years that toolmakers used solid aluminium jaws permanently fixed to the vice, mechanics tend to use bent over thick ali sheet vice clams, so that they can easily get to the serrated jaws, bodgers just muck up everything with serrated jaws, Holding delicate work in detachable fibre jaws should be avoided as they are not flat and distort the job

Thread: Magnetic chucks on smallish mills
22/07/2014 20:04:43

I spent many years round trade shops as a procurement engineer and have never seen a magnetic chuck on a mill, I have an 18inch chuck on my J&S 540 and I dont think I would try it on my mill,When grinding thin or small area work I usually stop the work from moving under load by using gauge plate parallels ,which are thinner than the work,hard up against the workpiece . Now when you think about it work skidding on a mag chuck on a grinder is potentially more dangerous than work moving on mag chuck on a mill,on a mill the work may be spoiled but it will not go flying around the shop milling very light work with very small cutters may be possible on the top surface but not around the sides ,but I let someone else try it first . Once a mag chuck is installed on a grinder its best left in place to maintain the accuracy,grinder operators in industry are very fussy about their chucks. Overall its better to find another method to hold work on the mill.

Thread: Rotary table and chuck problem
21/07/2014 21:19:54

Be care careful with threaded adaptors, the chuck may start unscrewing when taking milling cuts ,its ok just to drill or spot holes but not adviseable to mill . industrially a chuck would be secured to a plate with socket head cap screws and plate in turn bolted to the rotary table.

Thread: Drill Press Options
21/07/2014 21:10:06

I have a Fobco star {bench)and a large Meddings one inch capacity floor mounted drill. The Fobco I have had since 1968 and was purchased as I had started on an Allchin TE,new and expensive at the time, the Meddings I bought s/hand in good condition in 1994. both are very good drills.the Fobco is excellent for drilling small holes,though the bottom speed of 500 rpm can be too high when reaming above 5/16, and I have wished many times for a column that was about two inches longer. The meddings has a 3 MT spindle ,rack feed to table,bottom speed of 100 rpm . top same as Fobco,Now you may need only a small drill at present,but things change and a larger drill can be very useful ,especially if you want say to build a trailer or go into vintage restoration ,The distance between column and spindle should be as big as you can get,there is always a job that hits the column, thats where the turret mill comes in useful. The Meddings progress and the Meddings pacera range were good industrial drills ,I would suggest find one with a a 2 MT spindle and the high low range gearbox plus 4 belt speeds ,the gears in the gearbox are tufnol meshing with steel ,work well and quiet but make sure they have all their teeth,wait until the spindle is stopped before changing gear ,this enhanced speed range allows use of large drills and reamers plus tapping attachments.Good used Fobcos are a bit expensive (similar to the Myford factor) a Meddings is usually cheaper, read up about both makers on the lathes uk website. The Fobco milling spindles are also described on this site, I would advise against milling on any drill, I bought my meddings as I needed to drill larger holes in bigger workpieces and found that drilling with mt drills in my big Elliot millmor was time consuming changing the drills and a pain in the backside. Another drill is the Fobco Seven eight this has a 2mt spindle ,floor mounted ,and a superb drill but unfortuneatly sought after and seriously overpriced.

Avoid foreign drills ,a local farm has one ,floor mounted ,2mt spindle,place block of steel over the central hole in the table and bring the chuck down to it,then pull a bit harder on the lever and the table visibly deflects under a moderate load,though 20 years ago it was a quarter the price of a Meddings and drilled holes in bits of plate and angle suitable for ag work .Though if you are as old as me anything at times can be better than a hand drill

Thread: What did you do today? (2014)
16/07/2014 17:02:17

Manchester museum photos, how many of you noticed the superb Crossley carrier flame ignition gas engine in the first photo?

Thread: Which lathe
15/07/2014 17:46:29

Buy a Boxford,they will sit ok on your timber floor,they are tougher and generally cheaper than a Myford ,plenty of capacity,plus 19mm hole up the spindle and spares available on the secondhand market,avoid the far eastern stuff.

do not worry about wooden floors ,in the past I ran a myford S7 in an upstairs room without any problems,keep the lathe oiled or ditch the kettle.

My first lathe was an EW ,an english built lathe made for a while after the war ,capacity 2.5 inch centre height by 10 inch between centres ,nice well built machine but too small for real model making ,

Thread: Metric Threads
15/07/2014 09:30:15

I would not worry too much about DP threads,since I started work in 1958 I have only cut one dp thread,that was on my colchester triumph,the lathe was 20 years old when I purchased it and I wondered if this the only dp worm it had ever cut.,though on the triumph its easily selected on the gearbox ie no change wheels,on my master it requires an extra changewheel and these are always missing and I have never seen a spare for sale,have to make one someday. The worm I cut was for a 1930s Petter stationary with a mechanical "calibrator lubricator" the engine must have stood neglected for years as water had got inside it and was level to the horizontal axis of the worm and it had corroded the bottom half of the steel worm completely and I was presented with half a worm by a customer,"can you make one of these?". I would think that if the gear mating with the worm was thin,similar to a Meccano worm and the larger gears,there would be no need for pitch correction.

Thread: Reaming mild steel.
14/07/2014 10:10:11

Industrially reaming is a process used to produce lots of constant sized holes without stopping to gauge or measure each hole, or producing small deep holes which cannot be bored,the surface finish comes with experience and lots of it ,and during training if the engineering shop you worked in did not do much reaming then you did not learn much from older workers or like I did most of our reaming was in brass and very little steel,so I have always found reaming to be a bit hit and miss ,particularly on steel with holes above half inch diameter,good machine reamers will produce nice finishes in free cutting steels but can pick up on the rougher steels ie en 2 or 3 despite using lubricating oil,or soluble oil or modern Rocol type lubricants.Although not good practice and not good for reamer life boring or drilling the hole to only a couple of thou smaller and scraping the bore with the reamer can produce good finishes,why not bore to the required size ?,sometimes its safer to rely on the reamer to size the hole rather than risk boring to size,make a mistake and go oversize and spoil the work.The reamer also found a use when some companies running on worn out machines which would not bore true and measuring equipment was scarce, a reamed hole would be truer than what the machine could produce,Do not believe that our industrial past was built on factories with wonderful new machines, an awful lot had machines that were totally out of date or were worn out

warning on the second hand market there are a lot of reamers which have been ground undersize and not easily detected,

Thread: How do you solder brass cones/nipples onto copper pipe
10/07/2014 11:52:58

you require a good blowtorch,a well known brand ,ie primus sievert, I bought a similar outfit made by Calor and that has lasted fifty years. and well worth the price .Though when I started work all we had was a plumbers paraffin blowlamp for silver soldering. this week I have been experimenting with the hot tube ignition of a Gardner gas engine trying to improve the burner which heats the hot stainless tube,the problem is a gas engine was not meant to run on a windy steam rally field ,I am currently using a small sievert burner but wanted something a bit larger and was bit reluctant to buy another quality burner which may not work ,a friend offered me a couple of new burners from a cheap source and to be frank they were rubbish, one burnt with a yellow flame ,lack of air,and the other produced a fluffy blue flame which kept going out. I have set up on an engine which works and was trying to set up a second engine but the sievert burner and more important the jet is obsolete ,and a similar new sievert I bought was not hot enough,the jet had a different number. So dont go buying cheap blowtorches,my friend now uses the biggest burner for lighting his workshop stove thats all its good for.

Thread: Keyway in flywheel
08/07/2014 14:26:07

I would have thought that the little sampson would have followed usual practice and used a tapered keyway ,the taper being 1 in 96( normal imperial) or 1 in 100 and a taper key machined and fitted to suit, machine the flywheel key first then make and fit the key which is the hard part,the tapers must match to ensure the key stays in place. when finally ftting the key do not belt it in place as too much force will crack the flywheel hub.

Thread: Engravig a scale ( cutter type?)
03/07/2014 09:46:10

I have engraved many similar jobs on a Taylor Hobson engraver long ago during my aprenticeship, I think that 2,500 rpm is a little slow as you are only using the very tip of the cutter,use lubricant ,in those days lubrication was thin polishing oil like 3 in 1 ,nowadays the liquid Rocal is probably best. Most tedious job was a 21/2 inch micrometer drum in brass ,the index lines were easy ,about 8 thou thou deep,it was the numbers that were tricky ,they were mirror image as the micrometer was read via a mirror.

Thread: How to tell what specification of Bronze and Brass you have
03/07/2014 09:31:59

Sell it as mixed selection of brass /bronze on e bay,boot sale or ad in local newspaper etc or take it to the scrapyard,let the buyer take the risk. I was once told that brass and bronze can be identified as brass can be annealed and bronze cannot be annealed,though I have never seen it mentioned in any textbook.

Thread: ML7 Owner now wants a Mill?
30/06/2014 15:08:20

The most common and good english machine vice is an abwood, lots on the s/h market 3 inch jaw width and upwards ,watch out for the foreign stuff ,jaws not square and the sliding jaws lift when tightened, your ,001 runout on the Myford is ok no problem. Regarding mills ,their cutting action is far more severe than a lathe and to get good results you require a heavier machine than a lathe , the threaded cutters were meant to be screwed in a Clarkson holder, which ensures the cutter runs true and prevents the cutter from screwing its self into the work, the threaded cutters can be held in a collet chuck but they can move when cutting tough steels. My choice of smaller mill would be a Harrison ,they have more clearance under the spindle than the Tom Senior mill they are both well built and do a good job ,as for foreign built mills ,I had one years ago and should have known better it soon disappeared.

There is no need for DRO ,its a fad for those who cant operate a mill by using the index collars , hundreds of thousands of milling machines were in use during the twentieth century the majority never had DRO as it was a later invention, if you want to use the myford dividing head on the mill it can be bolted to an angle plate.

Thread: Lubricant grades for cylinder/ bearings ect
30/06/2014 14:36:45

I have a 6 inch traction engine and have used a 460 compound oil for lubrication of bearings ,motion etc The engine was a commercial build and the oil was recomended by the maker who also provided the initial suply,and I continued to use it as there was a warranty on the engine, Compound oil works ok but it is so sticky and so difficult to clean off ,if I had another model I would use a multigrade motor oil .

Thread: EN8 steel finish
30/06/2014 14:27:08

There was some years ago in letters to the editor of model engineer ,there must have been a query on surface finish the writer in reply stated that he had worked in a Manchester factory (Location Trafford Park I think) and the turners there would when machining the medium and tough steels , used very low speeds and the tool slightly above centre to get very good surface finish. I tried this out and it works,the use of slow speed has more effect than the tool being above centre height, of course these turners may have been working on large diameters where a small amount above centre probably cause a slight rubbing action which would tend to polish the surface, On EN8 I now machine at about 30 ft a minute plus HSS tools for finish cuts and get very goods results ( Myford and Colchesters) it takes a time but the result is worth it, If there is a lot of metal to be removed prior to finishing I tend to use indexable tips with plenty of lubricant ,to save time and avoid miles of long bits of curly swarf .

Thread: flat drills
27/06/2014 20:06:27

I would forget about drilling 2 inch holes with a flat drill, a two inch twist drill has a no 4 morse taper,so you would need a big drillng machine to hold the flat drill ,flat or twist it will need the same power to drive in cast iron,in steel the flat may need more as there is no rake angle on a flat drill, thats why the Victorians cored or punched holes as it was easier than using flat drills.. Bore the job in the lathe or mill or if you only have drilling machine make a boring tool and bore it out using small cuts.

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