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Member postings for Nigel McBurney 1

Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Threading and threading
20/05/2015 13:00:54

Tailstock die holders, its easy to make your own, why buy them , Bore the body to suit the die plus a couple of thou for clearance , drill and ream the body any convenient size ,say half inch and then get a short length of silver steel which will slide smoothly up the hole, the silver steel is held in the tailstock chuck,cross drill a tommy bar hole,and drill three holes for the grub screws,I use 2BA as I have a supply of socket screws, grind a point free hand on the screws.-The body of the die holder is mild steel,aluminium alloy is also OK ,I have about ten alloy ones which have lasted twenty five years.There is no need to worry about small amounts of eccentrity,after all if a piece of rod is held in the vice and cut with a die in a dieholder there is no control on the the die running true. It is a good idea to keep your commonly used dies in their own holder to save keep setting the dies. Screwcutting, when cutting threads on free cuting mild steel ,aliminium and brass, leave the top slide parallel to the bed ,set up the taxis of the threading tool at 90 degrees to the work,and plunge straight in,it works ok and depth is directly measured, if an accurate form is required then finish in the traditional way with a machine chaser. For tougher or very precise work set the top slide to half the thread angle, Use a screw cutting gauge to grind the correct angle and set the tool up true to the work,( rdg tools moore and wright no 200 screw cutting gauge) .

Thread: Best method of boring a bearing housing
18/05/2015 20:09:36

Welding a round housing to a square bar is ok for a garden trolley,a round housing sufficiently accurate to accept bearings will distort and or shrink when welded ,as suggested above bore through and fit a central spacer,I would secure it with high strength loctite and a pin for added security.Boring housings from each side,which are inline ,takes a lot of skill to get right.

Thread: Using a brick garage as a workshop
18/05/2015 10:02:43

I once tried to level out a area of uneven workshop floor with a self levelling mix, probably ok for domestic work ,not very good for workshop, accidentally drop a heavy object and the surface shatters,so for economy use the self levelling com[pound ,then floor paint or a thin membrane then a layer of 19mm chip board,chip board has lasted for 20 years in my workshop used daily,recently I had to replace an area in front of my lathe where constant standing and the occasional spay of slurry from the chuck eroded the board,I used ordinary chip board. It keeps your feet warm and if you drop a precision tool or piece of work it does not get damaged,chip board will support large machine tool ok, my 1and 3/4 ton mill has sat on it since 1990. Brick walls,in heavy rain does the inner side of the wall get damp? if it does dont fit an inner lining until you can stop the rain,I built my double garage and workshop in brick to match the house the end gable wall is nine inch solid brick and faces the weather,and rain came through and even after several years it never sealed so I had the exterior wall rendered,not nice to look at but waterproof.Eventually I used the garage for storage and built a timber worshop .Now be careful with problems with vermin ,mice will get into buildings and love insulated cavities,keep all wiring surface mounted and visible if the cables go through the insulation use steel conduit. Down the road from me there was a large pitched roof double garage converted to a gym and living accomodation , it burned down last winter,completely destroyed, cause determined by fire brigade and insurers ,mice chewing through the wiring,luckily the garage was detached.

Thread: lathe cutting fluid.
17/05/2015 10:06:04

tI would not advise cutting oil,I run my adcock and shipley 2e mill with cutting oil,its been there for about five years,I tried out the cutting oil as I was having trouble with bacteria in the soluble oil, The mill does not get a lot of use,and the oil remains in good condition,but and its a big but,it makes an awful mess and takes about a week to fully drain back into the sump,the swarf takes the same time to drain 90% of the oil from it,remove the swarf from the machine too quick and a lot of oil is lost still stuck to the swarf,plus if you put swarf in bin liners oil will leak out and more mess.Any workpiece will be covered in oil and require degreasing,plus parallels angle plates and vices will be soaking in oil. Only advantage as I see it ,finish on all steels is improved and I dont have to continually replace soluble oil. on my other machines I use soluble oil,three with pumped systems and the myford it is still the traditional half pint china mug and a cheap paint brush.I first encounteredhe bacteria soluble oil problem 30 years ago on cnc machines,and we put it down to the fact the soluble used was a special high performance soluble oil,At the time I was using soluble oil in small quantities in my home workshop brush or squirt bottle,my oil supply being a gallon of sol oil that I had aquired in the early 1970s, I then bought a large turret mill with coolant pump and I purchase a new supply of sol oil which started to go off if not frequently used, changed oil supplier Castrol ,got same problem the oil being eaten by bacteria,and leaving an acidic watery mess. Castrol suggested running the machines every other day if not in use to aerate the solubleoil, It did not really work. And looking back at the cnc machines where I first saw bacteria the machines ran 24/7 and topped up daily with 5 gallons of soluble.So the fluid in them was aerated. I reckon the problem is that as usual with health and safety the anti bacteria agents have been removed,tried adding jeyes fluid ,did not improve anything. Over the many years that I visited many engineering subcontractors it was rare to see neat cutting oil used,its use seemed to be in larger manufacturing set ups,ie auto lathe shops ,and continous operation cutting where there were facilities for handling the swarf,recovering the oil and containing the mess. I would stay with soluble oil,wipe the machine down after use,and then lubricate the bare metal with some cheap lubricating oil.Also if you get neat cutting oil on the workshop floor it will not evaporate,it will get waiked indoors.If a small pumped system is used then make sure it can be easily accessible for thorough cleaning.

Thread: Boring bar
16/05/2015 12:59:28

three simple ways to get a tool to bore hole in a thick washer,get a square toolbit and grind it so that you have a boring tool at the end, this will bore your washer to a depth of twice the bit size ie 20mm,advantage --the tool is very stiff and will not deflect, a purchased hss boring tool forged to boring bar shape works ok but I have that they will chatter when pushed to the limit,whereas a bit ground ffrom a hss toolbit does not chatter so readily.yet another way is to have a commercial boring bar like in the Adys post, I always make mine from a length of round silver steel,grinding small hss toolbits for these bars is fiddly for the beginner,so get a long round toolbit grind the end to the cutting shape you require then cut then tool to length. The old method was to grind a nick in the tool bit on the edge of the grinding wheel to about half depth,put it in the vice,place bit of rag over it and clout it with a hammer to break it where it is nicked, modern way is to use a 1 mm thick cutting disk in an angle grinder. The 1mm discs can also be used when shaping up large hss bits,then finish off on the grindstone.lot quicker.

Thread: foundry castings
16/05/2015 10:03:53

I hope you do ok,in addition to model engineers,there is also a market in castings for vintage stationary engines,and full size steam traction engines. Stationary engine work is mainly cast iron and bearing bronze,flywheels ,pistons ,trolley wheels,cast iron silencers. crankshaft bearings etc. If you start a business get organised,with small one offs do not loose customers patterns,if customers borrow parts from other enthusiasts so that they can be copied dont loose or break them,or accidentally put them in the melt thinking they are scrap,keep delivery promises, all of these problems have been experienced by myself and friends in the past.

Thread: What's your best tool purchase ?
15/05/2015 19:46:54

I suppose my best tool purchase was the M & W and eclipse tools bought during my apprenticeship, and for a while afterwards, at 5 shillings a week, 1958 to 1964 my toolmakers cabinet was the most expensive at 147 shillings,the price was marked on it in pencil and its still there,it took over half a year saving.though there was some discount. When I had a bit of cash saved in the club and lived and breathed motor cycles I got my employer to get me a bench vise the same as we used every day at work,it was a Parkson as big as a record 6 inch but with narrower jaws ,nice vice to work with and I still use it every day.

Thread: Rolling tailstock
14/05/2015 18:01:12

I have made lots of valves for stationary engines,american hit and miss engines (amanco) and some ruston hornsby engines have steel stems and cast iron heads. The stem is reduced by a sixteenth at the head end and threaded,BSF works ok ,the stem is threaded into the head and the steel is peened over to stop the head unscrewing,the valve seating face is is then machined concentric by holding the stem in the lathe chuck. For very small engines silver soldering the head to the stem is ok, Loctite or any type of engineering "glue "will not survive in a working engine.

Thread: Use of Mercer dti
14/05/2015 17:47:50

I am assuming that you have a mercer lever type indicator,so that it will go down the bore,and not a plunger type indicator with a 90 degree attachment. For a start it is not good practice to use a .0001 ie a tenth thou clock as they are known,on the rough surface of a drilled hole,a .001 inch dial indicator is more usual practice. .0001 d/gauges are too sensitive. you are going in the right direction but just need more practice. Now why are you trying to centre the drilled hole? its the centre vertical axis of the rotary table that needs to be set true. Then hold the work in the chuck and it does not matter if the drilled hole is a bit off centre,bore the hole to size ie 22mm . The piece of of flat metal in the kit is used to mount the dial indicator in the lathe .the metal bar is held in the toolpost,and the dial indicator mounted on the end fitting to "clock up" work in the lathe chuck. .0001 indicators were more often used for inspection rather than setting up work unless you were working to very tight limits.

Thread: Outdoor Workshop Insurance - Advice Welcome
14/05/2015 09:13:21

Walker midgely insurance brokers specialise in model and vintage insurance,look up their website and find model engineers insurance ,scroll down to section 4 which covers buildings ,tools.etc I use them for stationary engines and classic tractor.

Thread: Lathe chuck indexing?
08/05/2015 20:24:42

My indexing fixture ,English made a long time ago, has 24 internal slots which are located with a plunger, this is a manageable number,the periphery of the fixture has 24 numbered divisions and degrees marked. an index plate with a lot of holes can lead to errors through mis indexing unless an index guide similar to a dividing head is used.Going back to the original question,the reader states that he has a rotary table for the mill,so why not make a circular plate and then drill a circle on the mill, and then fix the plate to the left hand end of the lathe mandrel with an index plunger attached to the headstock, the plunger will allow the lathe spindle to indexed and also stop the spindle rotating when machining the splines.

Thread: How to measure bores
08/05/2015 20:04:50

A set of telescope gauges is a useful and economical way to measure bores, first of all they must be be from a good quality manufacturer, Moore and Wright used to make very good ones (made in UK many years ago) Mitutoyo are nearly as good I have examples from both makes.The skill is keeping the telescopic part square to the bore and then keep it square again again when measuring it with a micrometer, for fine limits always use a micrometer not a vernier.I also have a M & W set of small hole gauges they are good for bores under half an inch, An older type of vernier with jaw about 5mm thick and a direct scale reading vernier,and have the internal jaws with a radius so that they will go into holes from 1/4 inch upwards, these can only measure about 3/8 into the bore. they can be very accurate if the vernier jaws are rigid and in good condition,the actual measurement can be taken by measuring across the jaws with a micrometer, if you are measuring to less than a thou a micrometer reading will always be more accurate than a vernier reading, if the mating shaft is measured with the same micrometer then you do not have the possible inaccuracy introduced by two measuring instruments . Essentially the vernier is being used as a sliding gauge,but it does gives good results, my vernier a Swiss Roche Etalon was a gift from the company on completion of my apprenticeship,when the boss gave it to me he said "never lend your vernier to anyone,if its dropped its ruined" I have found that the repeatabilty of readings is not so good with more modern verniers having knife edge jaws,particularly when machining bores for light fits for bearings,cheating with loctite only came into general use after I finished my training.

Thread: Keeeping Machines Clean, New idea or Old?
08/05/2015 19:36:28

Perhaps if McLaren stopped being obsessed with cleanliness and tidyness and put their effort into their cars they might end up winning a race. When a company gets like that the employees are always looking over their shoulder, loose interest and only remain because the moneys good.,

Thread: Chester (Luxcut) Champion 20v Mill x & Y backlash
04/05/2015 09:38:21

I think nowadays people expect far too much from relatively cheap hobby machines,in times when manual machines were the norm ,nobody worried about backlash you just got used to it and got on with the job and allways worked in one direction,it was more important to have free running slides and handles and it was more important that the results were repeatable . That is wind the table to an index point on the dial ie say zero,take cut on a component , put another component in the fixture wind forward to the same index take a cut and get the same result. A nut which is too tight will wear out quickly . Some mills had backlash eliminators in various forms for climb miling ,but usually worked on the principle of two nuts on one screw working against each other,with an operating lever which operated the mechanism to tighten the second nut ,when climb milling was not required the second nut was slackened off with the lever to prevent extra wear on the screw and nuts.

Thread: Cutting BSPT threads with a die
02/05/2015 11:41:13

looking at some Machinerys publications, the flanks of tapered pipe threads are normal to the pipe axis not the taper with exception of gas fittings. Any way if you are making a couple of fittings for a radiator thread the form in relation to the pipe or the machined taper does not matter in practice, Use the die so that the tapered lead of the cutting teeth help produce a taper,then when getting close to size, and the thread is still tight in the mating hole,tighten up the die and only cut halfway down the thread so the first part fits and the rest is tight,and use loctite pipe thread sealer or boss white and hemp or ptfe tape. When I make steam fittings for full size I do use a taper turning attachment its just knowing when to adjust the thread by fiddling and when to do it correctly.

Thread: Help required with Colchester lathe
02/05/2015 10:46:49

Thanks for the info,I have just drained the Triumph saddle, oil was murkey and a couple of blobs of coolant, I last drained it about 22 years ago when I bought it,I will leave the oil to settle in the tin and see if there is any water in it.The lathe generally is in very good condition,I bought it at a government auction and it was ex Royal navy, The 3 jaw chuck was used but not worn, the four jaw was new and still greased,the face plate was in its box,the centres ,sleeves drill chuck were still in the crocell goo not used,no steadies,plus a new spare cross slide nut ,new worm gear for the feed shaft and some springs. The address of a small naval station along the south coast was on the face plate box, so why all the new kit,I have often wondered if all the loose equipment had been stolen or lost ,and all the very expensive new parts were replacements. An why does the feed clutch slip on a lathe that has not seen much use,no doubt I will find out. I have also just drained the apron on my Master 2500 the oil was clean,no sign of soluble oil ,though the master gets far more use and the oil is topped up alot more often than the triumph. When I bought the master at another government sale about 12 years ago,it had seen a bit more use,I stripped the cross slide at the time of purchase as it did not feel right , the feed screw was corroded having sat in a pool of corosive liquid in the trough in the saddle, A call to Colchester was made enquiring the price of screw and nut ,oh dear £ 400 plus vat ,a bit too expensive so I made a new cross slide screw on my other lathe and used the existing nut as it was not too worn, I could not find a drain hole in the saddle trough so I drilled one, and from the good condition of the oil it must be working,though my master is a bit newer than the Triumph and may have some seals fitted. I will have to wait a bit before working on the triumph until my backs better, At least the Triumph is free standing and easy to get at ,the master is hard against the shed wall and difficult to get at ,dont put big lathes against a wall,learn from my mistake.

Thread: Toolpost holders with morse tapers
22/04/2015 09:42:25

My 2mt Dickson holder came with my first Colchester,it is useful to be able to drill off the saddle when working on large batches of tough material,I also mount an old tapping head in the 2 mt holder, the tapping head with its ability to grip taps without slippage makes tapping easy and also it reduces the use of the tailstock,a lot of lathes are ruined by worn out tailstocks, Some precision toolroom lathes eg Holbrook had precise saddle attachments for drilling and a plate on the tailstock engraved " do not drill from the tail stock" A lot of precision plain lathes have relatively small tapers in the tail stock,to prevent the tailstocks being ruined by the use of large drills .

Thread: Clarkson Autolock chucks 40int are they worth selling
18/04/2015 15:33:20

Collets sell for about £10 to £20 each metric being dearest, a clarkson s type autolock with a set of collets will sell for between £60 and £100, they are still the best way of securely holding threaded shank cutters,they CANNOT get dragged out of the collet when cutting tough materials,

Thread: Mercer or John Bull?
16/04/2015 19:20:26

John bull indicators were very good,though not as common as a Mercer, John Bull were the first British made dial indicator to get a British Standards Kite mark, around 1960. I would advise keep all of them its very easy to drop or damage indicators.

Thread: Help required with Colchester lathe
15/04/2015 13:54:25

Thank you for the information,I will try when I get over this cold,how do you get a cold in this beautiful weather plus I am recovering from a bad back and as I have to drop the apron I will try a bit later.

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