Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Workshop and Drilling holes with an ER collet chuck|
I use er collets,keyless drill chuck with parallell shank and jacops chuck on 3mmt shank in my mill,but do most of my drilling on drilling machines, probably best to keep a new set of drill for use in ER collets then the drill shanks will not get scored as ERs have the best grip. Adviseable not to use old scored drills in collets as it may spoil the collets,or stone off any burrs on rough drill shanks. I have found that a lot of larger commercial countersinks have small 10mm shanks and a Jacobs chuck does not hold them tight and they tend to spin in the chuck,so I use an ER collet with MT shank in my drilling machine. A toolmaker would with the correct facilities would no doubt grind 3 flats on the countersink shank.
|Thread: Material for coupling rods|
I would use round bar, far more choice of material,virtually no distortion,leaded mild steel gives excellent finish,I have made con rods for full size stationary engines from en 1 A leaded and got execellent results and finish.I remember an ME article back in the 1970/80s where a top class modeller liked stainless coupling/con rods and othe valve gear for 5 inch locos and made them all from round free cutting stainless bar.OK it requires more machining at the roughing out stage but it worth it.I used carbide tips which have chipbreakers for the roughing out this avoids lots of strings of swarf,then finish off with HSS tools.
|Thread: Parting off 25mm copper|
This may be one of those occasions when an old style parting tool is required,ie ground from a square HSS toolbit where looking at the top of the tool the sides taper slightly inwards from the front to give side clearance,parting blades do not have this side clearance and tend to rub in difficult conditions,drops of Rocol lubricant would help.
|Thread: What to do when you lose something|
I have owned a good Stead screwdriver,for over sixty years,last week I changed the heating thermostat,put the screwdriver down,now cannot find it and still looking.
|Thread: Taper nosed drill chuck|
Back in the late 1950s the Boxford where I worked had one of these chucks,in the 6 years I was there it proved reliable and had a good grip.15 years ago at an autojumble ,a stall holder ,not the usual junk dealer, was changing his weekday tooling business and concentrating on metric tooling only,so had loads of new old stock imperial taps dies drills etc and in amonst the stock was a new boxed cardinal 1/2 inch chuck ,the chap said he was sorry the key was missing so i could have it for £5 what a bargain!,I soon found a key in my odd tool box though I do not know what make or type.Works well on my Master 2500.Yes the Cardinal it does appear to have a similar tapered screw/scroll design to the Taylor 3 jaw chucks. The Wilson 8 in lathe again where I worked had one of these Taylors and it always had an excellent grip on workpieces,in recent years when I aquired a very good Colchester Triumph with a good Burnerd 10 inch 3 jaw i found that work would slip in the Burnerd and have often thought that I never had that trouble with the Taylor chuck.
|Thread: Bandsaw - wood and metal ?|
I have a toolmakers Do All bandsaw made in uk under licence by G H Alexander it was possibly made during 1950/60s 2 speed motor varable speed down to below 100 ft per min,capacity ,it will cut steel up to 6 ins thick,it has a sort of "power feed" comprising a cast vee frame and a length of cycle roller chain,the the v lays flat on the table and the chain wraps around the outside of the vee ,the chain ends are attached to a cord which via a pulley system has a large weight on the end of the cord, the weight is enaged via a foot pedal and a screw system adjusts the load applied to the cord. ,cutting heavy pieces of steel would require extreme physical effort so there would be no chance of cutting 5 inch material in a vertical bandsaw. Also cutting any round material in a vertical bandsaw is a no no,DO NOT TRY IT. a horizontal band saw which really is only a modern development of the power hack saw with a big vice is the best way of cutting round material ,the advantage of the horizontal is that it saves time as there is no idle return stroke. An old Rapidor 6 inch is the best machine for cutting blanks,if there is no room in the workshop why not keep it in the garden with a "dog Kennel type shelter on wheels to keep it dry, a friend did this so that he could cut up long lengths of bar. Another way of achieving larger blanks is to get the metal supplier to sell you cut blanks at extra cost,Rounds or other shape cut via flame cutting,water jet, etc are usually cut from flat sheet which usually has poor machining qualities.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 spanner sizes|
Myford used the cheap end of the market black as forged UK made spanners as they knew that their lathes were good and did not need frequent adjustment so these spanners would not see much use.
|Thread: Anti seize grease on Myford spindle nose?|
Ady your statement that with back gear you never get a stuck chuck,there is also a very good chance that it will result in back gears with a few teeth missing. use a rag with a drop of 3 in 1 oil to wipe the nose thread,should a lathe be left left idle for a long time then loosen or remove the chuck. Especially on machines that have a pumped cooling supply of soluble oil.
|Thread: Recommended suppliers and services|
I use Arceurotrade excellent service, for ER collets and 3mt tooling for my mill, Rotagrip for chucks ,soft jaws,,Dickson toolholders, backplates,etc Screwfix for known branded power tools at good prices,, GM tools Ashington Sussex,bought lots of new/used tooling ie taps dies chasers lathe tools,lathe chucks,faceplates used machine tools.The last three I have used for over 30 years.
|Thread: Archer tapping chuck clutch|
I have a no10 Archer friction drive tapping chuck,with no 1 morse drive,and the instructions this is really just a tap holder with a slipping mechanism and relies on the drilling machine to provide the reverse.it could also be used on a centre lathe or a capstan lathe.Though the machine would have to have the slurry pump turned off ,Its what Peter Ellis writes,its the bottom 1/3 of the tapping attachment, Now the tapping attachment shown in the above post is a true tapping attachment with a reversing gearbox,there was one of these at my first job,a very fierce bit of equipment particularly on Whitworth threads,get it wrong and it would lift quite heavy castings rather than go in reverse,I have the instructions in the box so will write what they say as I do not know how to copy the original on this system
The friction drive is located in the top of the chuck and consists of multiple fibre and steel washers,the compression of these washers is adjusted by means of a castellated tension ring operated by the c spanner provided.
the friction washers must NOT be lubricated.
The friction drive should be set sufficiently firm to drive the size of tap being used.When the tap is fitted ease back the driving tension until the tap just slips when driving the tap,then tighten up the friction drive sufficiently to drive the tap under normal cut.For smaller taps special care should be taken to finely adjust the friction drive so that it slips on the slightest overstrain on the tap . If the tap stops on hard spots or overfeeding and the friction drive slips,the drive should be immediately reversed or the spindle stopped to prevent too much slipping to occur and overheat the clutch the cause unnecessary wear.
on the other side of the instruction sheet there is an underlined note stating DO NOT LUBRICATE THE FRICTION BOX
Its a better non slip way of holding a tap in the lathe tailstock than in the Jacobs chuck which always slips,though I would still use the lathe clutch to stop the tapping op particularly on BA taps ,relying on the clutch to slip may result in tap breakage ,I just use mine as a tap holder and not rely on the slipping clutch.
As i stated previously I have worked with the full reversing attachment ,though I much preferred another make of tapping attachment made by Pawson this had a lot softer clutch and reverse mechanism and was a lot kinder to the smaller taps
|Thread: Milling machines - western-made s/h recommendations up to £2k|
My choice would be Bridgeport,Elliott 00 omnimill,Harrison,Tom senior, All good machines that were used in UK industry and some still are, A friend had a Centec,I thought it was just too small never saw one in industrial use,would be ok for instrument making,or making a small loco. The standard Senior m1 with the knuckle head does have limited space under the spindle ,as I found when I had one ,i got mine from a friend who made plastic mould tools at home as a business,he replaced this m1 for a Senior m1 size machine with the small universal head which has a quill though only a 2mt spindle,This was in the 1970s during the 3 day weekand I went up to yorkshire to collect it new fromSeniors,that was an interesting visit and typical northern weather. He warned me that he found the capacity under the spindle to small,When got the new mill ,the small head mounted closer to the top of the machine gave more clearance ,he also bought at the same time a senior vice which was lower than an Abwood. I found that with the Senior I was forever changing my set ups as I was always running ot of space, though it was good for machining parts on an Allchin.I had no problems at all with Senior and it was a well built machine and no problems. A house move meant I had lots of room and some years later I sold the M1 and replaced it with the other extreme an Elliott Milmore at 1,75 tonnes and 50 inch table, this had capacity to cope with most jobs though it had a couple of faults, the spindle was only 30int a 40int would have been better,and the double swivel of the head would loose its tram,i used it comercially for 25 years, though it was backed up by an Adcock and Shipley universal mill , a impeding house move meant the mills had to go,this all fell through so I thought about getting a smaller English mill then a neighbour gave me an Elliott omnimill ,which had a slotting head and I aquired the universal head plus added electronic speed control on the vertical as my work meant I needed a lot lower spindle speed.this 1963 machine had come from a toolroom ,I made a stiffener for the vertical head which vastly improved the performance . the 00 has one big advantage ,it has real capacity,If anyone buys one ensure that it has the correct 3MT horizontal spndle ,they are rare nowadays, easier with later machines as they had 30int horizontal spindles. I did once have a mill drill (ex Taiwan) absolute rubbish for milling but was a very good drilling machine with 3 mt spindle. My friend who bought the Senior new, was a work colleague who always wanted to go out on his own as soon as he could afford one he had a Bridgeport ,he just loved them,he always said they are good ,accurate, and all the controls come easy to hand,enabling him to keep up a high work rate.wth a vice ,angle plate,rotary table set up on the table, along with a decent Colchester he could earn a good living.So there is my experience,go English,dont go after cheap rubbish,and by a machine that suits ones work.There are too many posts on here from modellers who have trouble with far eastern machines and always trying to get spares.
|Thread: Canon printer|
After many years with two epson printers,the last Epson wanted some type of servicing and as it was at the start of this lockdown ,went in a hurry to Currys and bought a Cannon g4511 Pixma ,when it prints the quality of black type is very good but it will not work from my applemac unless connected with hard cable,instructions are useless ,helpline just gave a load of instructions to try to cure the non event wireless connection.but they were difficult to understand.I would never buy another cannon printer. Sometime I switch it on and it will print amother its a pig to get it to work,the screen is so tiny and the control buttons so small.
|Thread: Loco wheel profile chatter|
Its the method thats the problem, for a start the holding method is wrong,any large diameter disc held on a relatively small mandrel will be very prone to chatter,there is also a tendency when using carbide tooling to use the high speeds in the charts,high speeds lead to chatter unless the work is well supported. the machining method described ie plunge cutting i assume is achieving the metal removal in one cut if so may cut ok but when the tool stops feeding along the tool starts to produce a a chattered finish,the old adage should be respected do not let your tool rub keep it cutting or clear it from the work . The slight dwell when changing tool feed direction will cause tool chattering. The writer also states his method is faster,its a hobby why is there a need for speed,select the best method not the fastest. Looking at the lathe tool,I may be wrong but it looks like its essentially a form tool with angled face to produce the tapered flange and I assume it fed along the bed via the saddle so why is the top slide set over ? I have machined a fair number of brake discs /drums ,stationary engine flywheels and they have to be held formly to avoid chattered finish, For example when machining brake drums if the drum is held by the centre hole ,a poor chattered finish will result . set up a large thick cast iron disk with four /or more tapped holes in a four jaw ,face the disc off to get the face true bolt the drum true onto the fixture and use a brazed carbide toolbit with minimum tip rad ,in a big boring bar,slow speed and fine feed and a good finish is the result,care has to be taken not to rush the job,in the vintage world there may be no spares for a 1950s lorry and customer satisfaction is essential.I have only done a couple of sets of loco flanged wheels and got very good results using four chucks and a thee jaw with soft jaws ,no skinny mandrels ,good finish ,happy customer.
|Thread: Advice acquiring single phase motor for Elliott Pillar Drill|
I bought new in 1968 a Fobco 1/2 inch dril it was fitted with a simple on /off rotary switch and 1/3 hp single phase motor ,I fitted an MK 13 amp plug to the lead and its been like that ever since,In those days there were no labels stuck every where eg no volt release must be fitted,and in reallity a no volt release is not really required,if theres a power cut and I did forget to switch the drill off so what ,it may start up again when powers restored so what. My Myford runs with a 3/4 hp s/p motor and that is started with a 13 amp plug in an MK metal clad socket,never had a problem it says something for MK that the switch is still working after 52 years. I expect I will get a barage of replies about safety but just consider this aspect of safety ,I expect many home worshops have electric heaters up to 3 kilowat,phase convertors,electric welders,do these have no volt release switches ? Any of those left on after a power cut could cause a fire if a fault developed ,in my view far more dangerous than a drill left running particularly if the workshop is attached to the home. The one safety feature I do have is a safety light which comes on via an internal battery when the power fails,which is quite often in a very rural area,and then it is really dark in my workshop.So to remotor a drill just fit a single phase capacitor start motor as others have said advertise for a suitable motor as there must be more about now due to others converting to VFD.I have never had a requirement to for a reverse function,occasionally when there has been a need for power tapping say fifty holes I use a commercial tapping head in my larger Meddings drill which has its own internal reversing mechanism.
|Thread: ML7 Hand Crank / Wheel?|
Ok a steering wheel is better /safer than a handle,a disc of aluminium with a round rim and recessed in the centre,with no holes or spokes would be safer.some larger lathes had 5c collet tubes with a round disc to tighten the collets and these could be safe when operating/rotating under power, I would have thought that care would have to be taken with a steering wheel as this could put a lot of torque on the tap,which can then put too much torque on the tailstock,the Myford tailstock barrel has only a small key to prevent rotation and the jacobs chuck relies on just the morse taper ,damage this taper and the machine is no longer an accurate centre lathe. Larger taps than BA or 1/4 whit can be held in place with a spring loaded centre and held on the flats with a spanner,Every time I use the S7 to tap a small hole I always curse and have to rotate the chuck by hand,a reversing motor would take just as long as the motor has to be switched off ,come to a standstill then started in reverse,The ideal situation would be a pair of clutches on the Myford to give near instant forward /reverse,in olden days when lathes with flat belts had the line shaft overhead,with power off the belt could be grabbed and pulled either up or down to give instant forward /or reverse.
|Thread: Hi from Hampshire U.K|
Hi I am also from Hampshire,south of Alton,lots of households with lathes in these parts,owners are involved in various hobbies, models,classic m/cycles,stationary engines etc
|Thread: Small Poppet Valves|
I have made lots of full size stationary engine valves,a lot of original valves have a material similar to siver steel for the stems and cast iron heads,Amancos and some ruston hornsbys for example,for very small engines the cast iron head would probably not work,though a silver steel stem would be round ,accurate and strong,so why not make the head from stainless steel and thread the component parts and screw them together and lightly rivet over the stem where it protudes through the head,then set the valve stem up in a lathe collet and very carefully skim the seating face of the valve with a very sharp HSS tool. Making a valve from solid rod is not a good idea as the inner core is not very strong when getting down to small diameters,automotive valves get over this problem by forming or forging the head on the valve. The Amanco open crank engine valves also have a valve seat angle of 45 degrees,they work and seal very well ,though often regarded as cheap and crude American engines ,for their time they were a very good engine which started easily ,would run in an absolutely worn out condition,and was an example of lots of capital poured into machines and tooling to produce a very cheap good product from day one of manufacture,the interchangeability of componens was very good,and having made lots of spares,never had a customer complaint about parts not fitting.
|Thread: Is RSJ Steel machinable?|
Most bits of rsj I have come across,machines similar to common black iron,ok for brackets,and a good support under a lathe,my myford sits on a length of 7 x 3 channel. and welds ok. As others have said dont cut it up,at least keep a length as you might need a lifting beam in your garage some time in the future,give it a coat of red oxide, As i understand it ,if regulations are complied with steel used in buildings must be new for some time,more recently structural steel in buildings ,has now to comply to an ISO spec and its origins traceable. The thin light angle iron used years ago for bed frames is very strong,Back in the 60s I used some to make trailer,borrowed the works gas welder,the angle spit and spluttered and flakes came off it ,then I found it brazed ok, Hacksaw blades did not last long,no angle grinders in those days. I aquired a supply of more bed angle a while ago and used it to make security bars for shed windows, Going back to machinability of rsjs, i aquired some heavy angle and channel which was galvanised and used by the electricity board for supporting pole mounted tramsformers,now that machine a easily as bright mild steel,there are a nuber of long slots for bolts so perhaps a better steel was specified as they would need an awful lot of steel
|Thread: A home-made gear - will it work?|
I have a 1973 Colchester master 2500, Just had a look at the thread indicator dial, the gear is white delryn or nylon,the teeth are at an angle of approx 4 to 5 degrees,the gear is 1/4 inch thick.the gear is fitted to the shaft by a fine spllne more like a coarse knurl, and so is the dial at the other end of the shaft. So anyone with this type of fitting the shaft could be pressed into a plain bore in the nylon gear .The shape of the teeth is not really important,the device is an indicator,so a disc with a number of say brass pins around the periphery would work.tilting the dividing head a few degrees would work I personally would use a gear cutter as I have a large collection of various types ,an alternative would be to make up a flycutter,which could be hand ground by using the broken gear as a guide,I would not bother to do an initial pass with a slitting saw. Now on the metric Colchester Triumph ,the thread indicator has a set of gears as single gear only works on some pitches.from memory these gears were made from brass and were about 2.5 mm thick and did not need the teeth to be set at an angle .
|Thread: CVA LATHE|
I worked in a brand new toolroom set up in 1967,the lathe was a CVA an accurate well built machine ,being new all the controls and slides were a bit tight ,not a pleasant machine to operate,I did not really take to it,it was supplied as a metric machine ,though among the paperwork was a lead screw test /accuracy chart thats when we found out that the leadscrew was imperial,it looked like metric super accurate leadscrews were not available at that time. so may be worth checking on an old machine,of this era Back in the 1990s recession when there were a number of machine tool and factory auctions i saw a few of these CVAs and they all had received some hard use ,never saw a good one.
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