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Member postings for Nigel McBurney 1

Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What rotary table
01/06/2015 09:25:20

Go for as big a table as possible,the limits will be cost,weight,and machine size, you always run out of room for the work piece or clamping space. regarding slots, 4 is common practice,three slots would be useful for items like six spoke flywheels,it surprising how many engineering items are divided into 3 or 6, If you needed to sell it in future a 4 slot would be easier to sell. I had a French built 12 inch table which had a number of slots at 90 degrees to each other and none were radial,found it very useful,had to part with it recently as I just could not lift it (anno domini) so swapped it for an immaculate Taylor Hobson 10 inch ,a lot lighter and slimmer but superb quality,

Colchester made faceplates with 6 slots and the regular plate with 4 main slots and an assortment of shorter slots, the six slot is very useful for six spoke fly wheels,nearly all traction and stationary engines with spoked flywheels had six spokes,I have never seen a rotary table with 6 slots ,again it might be better than 3 or 4,

Thread: Resuming an old build.
30/05/2015 13:10:01

To clean old oil off the parts use aerosol carburrettor cleaner (the best method) or one of the solvent sprays,its also good for cleaning old soluble oil stains from machine tools.

Thread: How to tell EN1A
29/05/2015 08:19:07

I have bought my steel from two large suppliers over the last twenty years,all in 10 ft lengths, and I have noticed variations in machinability ,particularly the steel with the slight spiral marks,which I assume is from a rolling process,plus the occasional laminations which can be heard clicking during turning,on one occasion a lump fell out from a 40 mm bar,plus correctly marked material supplied but not what I ordered,and this from companies with all the quality approvals!!!

Thread: Vernier gauge testing.
26/05/2015 10:44:21

reading through this topic,it reminds me of many discussions with inspectors and quality engineers during my time working on the minute tolerances of hard drives, verniers tended to be regarded as guessing sticks,the older verniers with engraved scales and read with a eye glass were usually only reliable to plus /minus a thou and I have never regarded the dial or digital type caliper to be any better, if a very accurate measurement is required and only a caliper can reach the area to be measured then the caliper should be used as a comparator against a standard ie slip gauges set to the nominal dimension.The sidetrack of measuring squish bands ,well if the owner and scrutineer measure the band with a length of squashed solder and and some carbon on head and piston ,with possibilty of the measurements being taken in different places and a variation in carbon thickness whats the point of discussing the accuracy of calipers,its like measuring a piece of foam with a micrometer. regarding rules, 50 years go I bought a Rabone chesterman 6 inch rule ,narrow type , one side was ok and accurate ,on the other side the first division was short nearly a sixty fourth so rubbish was also produced in the good old days ,Too much hassle to get another so I put it on the surface grinder and made it into a single sided thin very flexible rule ,ideal for tool setting . Still got it somewhere as I work far quicker in imperial.

Thread: Removing bronze bush from cast iron pulley
24/05/2015 09:43:41

Avoid pullers mechanical or hydraulic,a hydraulic press is usually best method for extracting bushes etc, if theses facilities are not available and a damaged pulley would be disastrous.So mount the pulley in the lathe and bore out the bronze bush until there is about 5 to 10 thou wall thickness of the bush remaining, then collapse the bush inwards by driving a small thin bladed screwdriver between the bush and the pulley, If you try cutting an oil groove with a dremmel type tool hold the tool tight as it will jump out of the groove and try to run around the inside of the bush.I have tried cutting oil grooves in bushes with a round nose chisel,tried all sorts of rake angles but never been successful ,often shown in books but I bet the authors have never done it. Once did a small end bush for a very large Polish single cylinder tractor ,like a field marshall but bigger,they must have had lubrication problems as its the most complicated small end bush I have ever seen spiral grooves and oil holes on the id and od, eventually cut the grooves with the mill and dividing head set up for spiral milling ,the owner was well pleased.

Thread: Sparkies advice please
23/05/2015 10:14:47

Assuming its a conventional ring main,why not find where the spur joins into the ring,and just extend the ring from that point. Or a cheapy solution ,currently you state that the socket meets your power needs its just the tangle of the extention leads that is your problem,so put some sockets around the garage where you need them and have a length of flexi cable from the last socket with a thirteen amp plug to the existing fixed socket in the garage,all this has done is in effect is made the extension leads a bit more permanent,the advantage is the garage circuit can be isolated by a pulling the plug,if this is done every time it reduces the risk of leaving an appliance "ON" ie a soldering iron, I dont think it illegal,though if you moved house its a simple job to remove the temporary sockets.The new regulations are there I suppose to protect people from DIY bodge jobs by the current generation who cannot even change light bulb,or if they do they need a hard hat,goggles, and hi vis jacket.But there are a lot of sparks who are not that clever,after the 1987 hurricane, my neighbour had a sparks from one of the building sites he was involved in,fit a generator change over switch , and asked did I want one fitted,cash in hand . a long time afterwards I fitted a new consumer unit and then found that the heavy leads from the c/o switch were undersize, correct size leads could be fitted but he was too idle to struggle with the heavier much for proffessionals.

Thread: Threading and threading
20/05/2015 13:00:54

Tailstock die holders, its easy to make your own, why buy them , Bore the body to suit the die plus a couple of thou for clearance , drill and ream the body any convenient size ,say half inch and then get a short length of silver steel which will slide smoothly up the hole, the silver steel is held in the tailstock chuck,cross drill a tommy bar hole,and drill three holes for the grub screws,I use 2BA as I have a supply of socket screws, grind a point free hand on the screws.-The body of the die holder is mild steel,aluminium alloy is also OK ,I have about ten alloy ones which have lasted twenty five years.There is no need to worry about small amounts of eccentrity,after all if a piece of rod is held in the vice and cut with a die in a dieholder there is no control on the the die running true. It is a good idea to keep your commonly used dies in their own holder to save keep setting the dies. Screwcutting, when cutting threads on free cuting mild steel ,aliminium and brass, leave the top slide parallel to the bed ,set up the taxis of the threading tool at 90 degrees to the work,and plunge straight in,it works ok and depth is directly measured, if an accurate form is required then finish in the traditional way with a machine chaser. For tougher or very precise work set the top slide to half the thread angle, Use a screw cutting gauge to grind the correct angle and set the tool up true to the work,( rdg tools moore and wright no 200 screw cutting gauge) .

Thread: Best method of boring a bearing housing
18/05/2015 20:09:36

Welding a round housing to a square bar is ok for a garden trolley,a round housing sufficiently accurate to accept bearings will distort and or shrink when welded ,as suggested above bore through and fit a central spacer,I would secure it with high strength loctite and a pin for added security.Boring housings from each side,which are inline ,takes a lot of skill to get right.

Thread: Using a brick garage as a workshop
18/05/2015 10:02:43

I once tried to level out a area of uneven workshop floor with a self levelling mix, probably ok for domestic work ,not very good for workshop, accidentally drop a heavy object and the surface shatters,so for economy use the self levelling com[pound ,then floor paint or a thin membrane then a layer of 19mm chip board,chip board has lasted for 20 years in my workshop used daily,recently I had to replace an area in front of my lathe where constant standing and the occasional spay of slurry from the chuck eroded the board,I used ordinary chip board. It keeps your feet warm and if you drop a precision tool or piece of work it does not get damaged,chip board will support large machine tool ok, my 1and 3/4 ton mill has sat on it since 1990. Brick walls,in heavy rain does the inner side of the wall get damp? if it does dont fit an inner lining until you can stop the rain,I built my double garage and workshop in brick to match the house the end gable wall is nine inch solid brick and faces the weather,and rain came through and even after several years it never sealed so I had the exterior wall rendered,not nice to look at but waterproof.Eventually I used the garage for storage and built a timber worshop .Now be careful with problems with vermin ,mice will get into buildings and love insulated cavities,keep all wiring surface mounted and visible if the cables go through the insulation use steel conduit. Down the road from me there was a large pitched roof double garage converted to a gym and living accomodation , it burned down last winter,completely destroyed, cause determined by fire brigade and insurers ,mice chewing through the wiring,luckily the garage was detached.

Thread: lathe cutting fluid.
17/05/2015 10:06:04

tI would not advise cutting oil,I run my adcock and shipley 2e mill with cutting oil,its been there for about five years,I tried out the cutting oil as I was having trouble with bacteria in the soluble oil, The mill does not get a lot of use,and the oil remains in good condition,but and its a big but,it makes an awful mess and takes about a week to fully drain back into the sump,the swarf takes the same time to drain 90% of the oil from it,remove the swarf from the machine too quick and a lot of oil is lost still stuck to the swarf,plus if you put swarf in bin liners oil will leak out and more mess.Any workpiece will be covered in oil and require degreasing,plus parallels angle plates and vices will be soaking in oil. Only advantage as I see it ,finish on all steels is improved and I dont have to continually replace soluble oil. on my other machines I use soluble oil,three with pumped systems and the myford it is still the traditional half pint china mug and a cheap paint brush.I first encounteredhe bacteria soluble oil problem 30 years ago on cnc machines,and we put it down to the fact the soluble used was a special high performance soluble oil,At the time I was using soluble oil in small quantities in my home workshop brush or squirt bottle,my oil supply being a gallon of sol oil that I had aquired in the early 1970s, I then bought a large turret mill with coolant pump and I purchase a new supply of sol oil which started to go off if not frequently used, changed oil supplier Castrol ,got same problem the oil being eaten by bacteria,and leaving an acidic watery mess. Castrol suggested running the machines every other day if not in use to aerate the solubleoil, It did not really work. And looking back at the cnc machines where I first saw bacteria the machines ran 24/7 and topped up daily with 5 gallons of soluble.So the fluid in them was aerated. I reckon the problem is that as usual with health and safety the anti bacteria agents have been removed,tried adding jeyes fluid ,did not improve anything. Over the many years that I visited many engineering subcontractors it was rare to see neat cutting oil used,its use seemed to be in larger manufacturing set ups,ie auto lathe shops ,and continous operation cutting where there were facilities for handling the swarf,recovering the oil and containing the mess. I would stay with soluble oil,wipe the machine down after use,and then lubricate the bare metal with some cheap lubricating oil.Also if you get neat cutting oil on the workshop floor it will not evaporate,it will get waiked indoors.If a small pumped system is used then make sure it can be easily accessible for thorough cleaning.

Thread: Boring bar
16/05/2015 12:59:28

three simple ways to get a tool to bore hole in a thick washer,get a square toolbit and grind it so that you have a boring tool at the end, this will bore your washer to a depth of twice the bit size ie 20mm,advantage --the tool is very stiff and will not deflect, a purchased hss boring tool forged to boring bar shape works ok but I have that they will chatter when pushed to the limit,whereas a bit ground ffrom a hss toolbit does not chatter so readily.yet another way is to have a commercial boring bar like in the Adys post, I always make mine from a length of round silver steel,grinding small hss toolbits for these bars is fiddly for the beginner,so get a long round toolbit grind the end to the cutting shape you require then cut then tool to length. The old method was to grind a nick in the tool bit on the edge of the grinding wheel to about half depth,put it in the vice,place bit of rag over it and clout it with a hammer to break it where it is nicked, modern way is to use a 1 mm thick cutting disk in an angle grinder. The 1mm discs can also be used when shaping up large hss bits,then finish off on the grindstone.lot quicker.

Thread: foundry castings
16/05/2015 10:03:53

I hope you do ok,in addition to model engineers,there is also a market in castings for vintage stationary engines,and full size steam traction engines. Stationary engine work is mainly cast iron and bearing bronze,flywheels ,pistons ,trolley wheels,cast iron silencers. crankshaft bearings etc. If you start a business get organised,with small one offs do not loose customers patterns,if customers borrow parts from other enthusiasts so that they can be copied dont loose or break them,or accidentally put them in the melt thinking they are scrap,keep delivery promises, all of these problems have been experienced by myself and friends in the past.

Thread: What's your best tool purchase ?
15/05/2015 19:46:54

I suppose my best tool purchase was the M & W and eclipse tools bought during my apprenticeship, and for a while afterwards, at 5 shillings a week, 1958 to 1964 my toolmakers cabinet was the most expensive at 147 shillings,the price was marked on it in pencil and its still there,it took over half a year saving.though there was some discount. When I had a bit of cash saved in the club and lived and breathed motor cycles I got my employer to get me a bench vise the same as we used every day at work,it was a Parkson as big as a record 6 inch but with narrower jaws ,nice vice to work with and I still use it every day.

Thread: Rolling tailstock
14/05/2015 18:01:12

I have made lots of valves for stationary engines,american hit and miss engines (amanco) and some ruston hornsby engines have steel stems and cast iron heads. The stem is reduced by a sixteenth at the head end and threaded,BSF works ok ,the stem is threaded into the head and the steel is peened over to stop the head unscrewing,the valve seating face is is then machined concentric by holding the stem in the lathe chuck. For very small engines silver soldering the head to the stem is ok, Loctite or any type of engineering "glue "will not survive in a working engine.

Thread: Use of Mercer dti
14/05/2015 17:47:50

I am assuming that you have a mercer lever type indicator,so that it will go down the bore,and not a plunger type indicator with a 90 degree attachment. For a start it is not good practice to use a .0001 ie a tenth thou clock as they are known,on the rough surface of a drilled hole,a .001 inch dial indicator is more usual practice. .0001 d/gauges are too sensitive. you are going in the right direction but just need more practice. Now why are you trying to centre the drilled hole? its the centre vertical axis of the rotary table that needs to be set true. Then hold the work in the chuck and it does not matter if the drilled hole is a bit off centre,bore the hole to size ie 22mm . The piece of of flat metal in the kit is used to mount the dial indicator in the lathe .the metal bar is held in the toolpost,and the dial indicator mounted on the end fitting to "clock up" work in the lathe chuck. .0001 indicators were more often used for inspection rather than setting up work unless you were working to very tight limits.

Thread: Outdoor Workshop Insurance - Advice Welcome
14/05/2015 09:13:21

Walker midgely insurance brokers specialise in model and vintage insurance,look up their website and find model engineers insurance ,scroll down to section 4 which covers buildings ,tools.etc I use them for stationary engines and classic tractor.

Thread: Lathe chuck indexing?
08/05/2015 20:24:42

My indexing fixture ,English made a long time ago, has 24 internal slots which are located with a plunger, this is a manageable number,the periphery of the fixture has 24 numbered divisions and degrees marked. an index plate with a lot of holes can lead to errors through mis indexing unless an index guide similar to a dividing head is used.Going back to the original question,the reader states that he has a rotary table for the mill,so why not make a circular plate and then drill a circle on the mill, and then fix the plate to the left hand end of the lathe mandrel with an index plunger attached to the headstock, the plunger will allow the lathe spindle to indexed and also stop the spindle rotating when machining the splines.

Thread: How to measure bores
08/05/2015 20:04:50

A set of telescope gauges is a useful and economical way to measure bores, first of all they must be be from a good quality manufacturer, Moore and Wright used to make very good ones (made in UK many years ago) Mitutoyo are nearly as good I have examples from both makes.The skill is keeping the telescopic part square to the bore and then keep it square again again when measuring it with a micrometer, for fine limits always use a micrometer not a vernier.I also have a M & W set of small hole gauges they are good for bores under half an inch, An older type of vernier with jaw about 5mm thick and a direct scale reading vernier,and have the internal jaws with a radius so that they will go into holes from 1/4 inch upwards, these can only measure about 3/8 into the bore. they can be very accurate if the vernier jaws are rigid and in good condition,the actual measurement can be taken by measuring across the jaws with a micrometer, if you are measuring to less than a thou a micrometer reading will always be more accurate than a vernier reading, if the mating shaft is measured with the same micrometer then you do not have the possible inaccuracy introduced by two measuring instruments . Essentially the vernier is being used as a sliding gauge,but it does gives good results, my vernier a Swiss Roche Etalon was a gift from the company on completion of my apprenticeship,when the boss gave it to me he said "never lend your vernier to anyone,if its dropped its ruined" I have found that the repeatabilty of readings is not so good with more modern verniers having knife edge jaws,particularly when machining bores for light fits for bearings,cheating with loctite only came into general use after I finished my training.

Thread: Keeeping Machines Clean, New idea or Old?
08/05/2015 19:36:28

Perhaps if McLaren stopped being obsessed with cleanliness and tidyness and put their effort into their cars they might end up winning a race. When a company gets like that the employees are always looking over their shoulder, loose interest and only remain because the moneys good.,

Thread: Chester (Luxcut) Champion 20v Mill x & Y backlash
04/05/2015 09:38:21

I think nowadays people expect far too much from relatively cheap hobby machines,in times when manual machines were the norm ,nobody worried about backlash you just got used to it and got on with the job and allways worked in one direction,it was more important to have free running slides and handles and it was more important that the results were repeatable . That is wind the table to an index point on the dial ie say zero,take cut on a component , put another component in the fixture wind forward to the same index take a cut and get the same result. A nut which is too tight will wear out quickly . Some mills had backlash eliminators in various forms for climb miling ,but usually worked on the principle of two nuts on one screw working against each other,with an operating lever which operated the mechanism to tighten the second nut ,when climb milling was not required the second nut was slackened off with the lever to prevent extra wear on the screw and nuts.

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