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Member postings for Nigel McBurney 1

Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Poor quality gears
12/07/2015 09:41:50

That gear looks awful,either a blunt gear cutter or the result of using a poorly supported mandrel,as described above this is the larger gear of the pair so it fits on the side shaft which must be small in diameter.The way to make such gears is to turn the gear blank at one end of a solid shaft with a longer collar,and a centre hole.set up in a universal dividing head,shaft in chuck and dividing head tailstock brought up to support the shaft via the centre hole,The teeth are then cut,and the shaft is then put back in the lathe and the gear parted off, the long collar on the gear is then held in a collet and the gears is then faced,drilled (or bored)and reamed and it can then be reversed in the lathe and the collar reduced to correct length.With such small gears there is not much room or clearance when getting the cutter set at an angle up to the gear blank but also missing the tailstock.I have made a lot of stationary engine gears straight cut and spiral ,the small ones are the difficult and expensive ones and unless the engine is very old and valuable the cost of the gears is too high for a new model.For general info the Spiral magneto gear on Petter M stationary engines is another gear with a small tapered hole to suit the magneto spindle,I worked out how they made them,the gear has a machined recess on one face and short machined spigot on the other face,the machining is very accurate so that one gear can mate up with one or more gears via the recess/spigot. so a stack of gears can be held accurately together, there are also three equi spacedcast holes in the gear,these are clearance holes take studs or bolts so they can be held firmly together on a tooling fixture which also has a mating spigot ,the fixture is held in the spindle of the gear cutter or a dividing head,with the other end of the stack supported by a centre,I just wonder how many were made at a time ,as Petters made a lot of the M type engine. Regarding the poor purchased gears its catch twenty two,either return them and then have no gears or just accept them and live with it, I know the gears look rough but I can assure you that there are a lot of gears on vintage stationary which look worse than yours having survived possibly 80 odd years of use , disuse ,abuse,and rust, If desperate I would run them,do not lap them in ,grinding grit is awful stuff and can cause further difficulties. Another point is that some engines mainly pre 1900 had the spiral side shaft gears cast and just dressed up with a file and they run very well,the only snag with such gears is that the pattern was made to DP sizes and subsequently the cast gear shrunk on cooling ,a pair made like this ran OK making a modern replacement for one or a pair causes a few headaches, though they can be overcome with some adjustment of the cutter depth etc etc all good fun.

Thread: Help drilling bronze
09/07/2015 09:30:39

I have seen accidents with drills grabbing bronze,grind flats on the drill lips on a grinding wheel ,you require a visible flat not a bit of honing on a half inch drill,and on the casting in the photo I would use two clamps,better than wrecking a casting, the correct method would be to use a straight fluted drill or straight fluted milling cutter.For one offs a boring tool in the mill is possibly the safest option.For cutting fluid I would use ordinary soluble oil,cooling the tool is more important than lubrication,When drilling drawn phosphor bronze,possibly the worst material for "snatching" start off with minimum depth of centre drill and then drill to required size with one drill,grind the drill so that one cutting edge is slightly longer than the other one so that the drill make a slightly oversize hole as drills not only snatch in bronze they also tend to bind in the hole if the depth is greater than 2x dia.

Thread: Wabeco 2000/3000 Lathes
02/07/2015 09:27:20

I used to visit a contract machine shop in Twickenham in the 1970s ,they had three barker lathes,the only ones I have ever seen,the company had no complaints about them and found the rotating headstock very useful for the varied work that contractors get,

02/07/2015 09:27:03

I used to visit a contract machine shop in Twickenham in the 1970s ,they had three barker lathes,the only ones I have ever seen,the company had no complaints about them and found the rotating headstock very useful for the varied work that contractors get,

02/07/2015 09:26:50

I used to visit a contract machine shop in Twickenham in the 1970s ,they had three barker lathes,the only ones I have ever seen,the company had no complaints about them and found the rotating headstock very useful for the varied work that contractors get,

Thread: Price of aluminium
01/07/2015 20:22:00

I have used Aluminium Warehouse on the web for a few years, from a length of angle to several hundred £s worth of cut blanks,packing excellent they use long cardboard tubes for long thin items ,delivery good ,imperial and metric sizes,£15 delivery charge which does make small lots expensive,though the ali is cheaper than other by carrier

Thread: 6 BA hexagon headed screws
01/07/2015 20:11:41

When I spent some time on a Ward 2a capstan lathe back in the 1950s, the cutters to reduce screw shanks to size were known as hollow mills,and mounted in one of the turret stations,ok for fully threaded screws but not brilliant at producing a good finish on a plain shank,despite stoning the cutting edges,threading was usually button dies for for smaller BA sizes and self opening die heads for 1 and0 BA . If you need to turn a long thin screw shank make the screw a bit longer and centre drill the end and support the screw shank with a small centre,then reduce the length to remove the centre or use a travelling steady,for small dias use a home made steady device to fit the tool post.If only a part of the shank is threaded,hold the material in a collet with just enough protruding for the thread,turn down the length to be threaded ,thread it then feed the rest of the screw shank forward and turn that down,

Thread: Whats going on with this mill
27/06/2015 09:44:27

Perhaps its a combination machine,lever operated collet to hold screws,bolts etc for facing chamfering etc then fit cutter mandrel in largest collet with work held in table fixture for milling slots in screw heads ,two cutters for making square or hex heads. Looking at the position of the handle it would not be a comfortable machine to use all day,Many years ago I worked on a screw polisher during my apprenticeship as an instrument maker,a spindle with collets operated by a foot lever and a tee rest in front of the spindle polishing the heads of 0 to 10 ba screws,and various instrument knobs,awful job could be on the machine for weeks. There was also a very small horizontal mill with lever feed on 3 axis , x axis to produce flat bottomed slots in screw heads, z axis up to produce curved bottom slots in screw heads.

Thread: "Fanstock Clip-rivit" what is it?
25/06/2015 20:23:24

Commonly used on the igniter on vintage Amanco and other stationary engines,made of brass and longer than the clip in the photo above,to fit the wire (from the magneto) the the clip is pressed and the wire inserted into the pressed vee,

Thread: What did you do today (2015)
24/06/2015 19:47:45

Went for pub lunch today (southern England)with my wife ,builders were working on old outbuilding,one on ridge refitting capping tiles ,one on scaffold with big disc cutter, cutting tile with loads of dust,third man painting new gable end timber with black paint (no priming),result dust all over paint and over customers and cars!!.I just could not believe what happened next,painter came down ladder ,paint pot was on ground, builder puts brush in paint and then goes back up ladder,paints a bit then comes down to refill his brush,does this several times,Where do these clowns come from?

Thread: Best vice
22/06/2015 14:07:06

My first vice was and still is my Parkinson no 5 bought at a discount via the apprentice tool club 1963/64 I surface ground the jaws smooth and the jaws are held tight with hex head bolts into tapped holes in the jaws a far better method than Records countersunk screws,this vice did get abused for around 20 years,on stationary engines,trials motor cycles,tractors and cars plus model making and is still my prime vice,most destructive was using it as a press.Eventually the quick release jaw would slip,real nuisance,I found that the nut would not fit back fully into the thread,the the screw had stretched so I had a variable pitch screw. Its now a fixed nut vice. I later bought a second hand big beast a Record no 25 for rough work and also hydraulic press.So check the screw on old used vices before purchase

Thread: Tapered Dowel Pins
22/06/2015 09:30:45

Take care when taper reaming small diameter holes,the reamer flutes soon fill up with swarf and break quite easily,withdraw the reamer frequently and clean the flutes,also lubricate with oil or Rocol, It was accepted practice to use taper reamers with straight flutes for hand reaming and spiral flute for machine reaming,though for one offs straight flute taper reamers can be used in a pillar drill at about a third to half drilling speed.

Thread: Pillar Drill advice - Meddings Driltru or MB4
12/06/2015 19:58:23

I have a Fobco and a Meddings 4 The Fobco is more sensitive for very small drills but the 500 rpm bottom speed is too high for reaming,countersinking etc, The large Meddings can drill holes up to 7/8 ,ream at slow speeds ,drive a tapping attachment, drill tough materials at the correct speed, I would go for the Meddings though check the taper in the spindle to make sure thats its in good condition,and drills have not been spun in the taper. Also check the gears,some are tufnol and they can loose some teeth if the operator has changed from high to low while the drill is still running.

Thread: Beginner question - holding a piece of already machined aluminium in a lathe chuck.
12/06/2015 14:42:37

Its best to use thicker pieces of packing,either steel,brass or aluminium, around 1.5 mm is ideal, Older 3 jaw chucks i.e. Myford /Burnerd have smooth jaws which barely mark a workpiece,more modern imported chucks tend to have serrations in the jaws ,these will mark the work, If too thin packing is used the jaws will still mark the work, Four jaw chucks can easily mark work as the jaw pressure is higher and steel packing is better. Do not use thin shim, the shim rotating a speed is a very effective cutting machine and can make a mess of fingers, I once saw the results when a colleague was machining a large diameter piece of steel in the 4 jaw of a 8 inch lathe ,the work was protected by thin shim .015in thick and he accidentally cut the tops of all his fingers when his hand got a bit too close, since that day over fifty years ago I have never used thin shim in a lathe chuck.

Thread: lubricating lathes
10/06/2015 12:22:39

A couple of years ago I checked my trailer hubs,similar size to mini hubs, and the bearings looked a bit dry i had been using Castrol moly grease, had look on the tub and it states that moly grease should not be used for auto wheel bearings. I do not remember this warning when Castrol used tins before the plastic tubs. I had a think about my previous comment on straight thirty making the slides stiffer,I suppose its because the multigrade iI normally use is lower viscosity. I use 32 hydraulic oil on both my Colchesters,as thats the specified oil and is in use for a long time in the gearboxes/headstock. I cannot why there is objection to using good multigrade oil for Myford bearings, the lubrication system is total loss so the bearing gets a constant feed of fresh oil,if there is any debris in the oil it goes to waste and does not recirculate.Automotive and motorcycle gearboxes of the 1960s tended to use motor grade oils,and minis and others used the engine oil to lubricate the gearbox,our lathe headstocks are a similar technology to those days so multigrades should be ok,there used to be a saying any oil (except EP) is better than no oil. There has been a trend to using thinner oils in gearboxes as speeds increased. From 1950 to 1960 the gear box oil on villiers motor cycle engines changed from sae 140 Castrol D ,to 90 and then to 30 ,

Thread: increasing the bending stiffness of steel pipe or tube?
07/06/2015 09:51:33

A drawn tube(seamless) with a similar type of tube push or force fitted inside is no doubt stiffer than a thick wall tube, Back in the 1950/1960s when we built motorcycles in the uk some scrambles bikes were fitted with twin wall tube handle bars,ie a tube within a tube and they were very strong,dont know how they made the tube.

Thread: Elliott Victoria Turretmill TV1
07/06/2015 09:30:36

The Elliot milmor turret mill,and the Gate turret mill ,slight differences same company, with 50 inch tables both weigh 1750 kilos,the Elliot took a bit of shifting off a twin axle trailer with only a hand winch,rollers and a crowbar on my own.After 25 years I have just found a copy of the hand book,Elliot info is difficult to come by as they continually changed the machines,and they also owned ,Victoria,and Gate,and sometimes interchanged intercompany parts.And despite having the handbook there was no information on spindle bearing lubrication or adjustment,which I wanted ,assume it was greased for life,but how longs life now that its about 50 yrs old.

Thread: Fly cutters
05/06/2015 08:27:22

Problem is caused by too high a cutting speed, as a rough guide if your fly cutter tip is describing a circle of one inch (25mm) then speed should be 250 to 300 rpm, for MILD steel and 250rpm max for cast iron, ali and brass can be cut 2 to 4 times faster,high speed steel will soon loose its edge if these speeds are exceeded, You did not specify the grade of steel,probably tough steels on home machinery should be cut with and end mill. Also some lubrication should be used with mild steel, apply the soluble oil with a brush,the flycutter will soon cover the operator and the workshop when a pumped supply is used unless suitable guarding is in place,

I once saw a demonstration in a carbide tool manufacturers works , it was really impressive a cutter with two tips about 60mm dia, in effect a two tip fly cutter and was really peeing round well over a 1000 rpm and cutting mild steel ,the swarf was coming off like bullets,and red hot with no lube, the carbide was obviously developed specifically for this job and they had no doubt spent some time getting the parameters right, great if you are making a living but not for the amateur. I find that amateurs nowadays are obscessed with cutting at high speeds,whats the hurry if a job takes longer so what its only a hobby, I fully realise that some carbides need to run at high speed but you do need the proffessional m/c tools to make the best use of carbides.

Thread: lubricating lathes
04/06/2015 09:34:41

I have used Castrol gtx for 40 years no problem,gtx now has synthetic additive and have not tried that,been using halfords 10/40 for the last year no problem ,good lubrication, I had some Castrol classic straight 30 sae, tried it for lubricating the Colchester slides,slides were a lot stiffer to operate so that tin of oil is now used for the general purpose oil can only,

Thread: Beginner question - facing off in a lathe.
02/06/2015 14:15:26

Steel tube,particularly tube rolled and seam welded,is the worst of the common materials to machine,its tough and stringy, On a small lathe I would use a hss tool with small tip rad and 20 degree top rake, and feed the cross slide by hand, when feeding by hand you can feel how the tool is cutting and if it is about to dig in the feed can rapidly slowed or if necessary stopped or reversed,if using power feed by the time the the stop lever has been operated the tool will have dug in, with jobs like this its patience not speed thats required.Now if you had a heavy lathe like a colchester triumph with 40 mm tube held in a big 10 inch chuck the method would be ,use big carbide or hss tool and feed the saddle towards the chuck cutting the entire 6mm width,it would knock a bit but that does not matter, when close to the finished length,lock the saddle and take a finish cut by facing with the cross slide to ensure face is square to the axis of the tube. I recently squared off 30 lengths of scaffold tube like this on my triumph,horrible material but thats what the customer required.

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