Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Water soluble coolant|
Soluble oils have always left staining under vices .rotary tables etc,rusting caused by soluble oil is a more recent occurance in the last 30 years ago, no due to legislation the some additives have been removed and bacteria growth is now more common this tends to eat the oil and make the water acidic causing corrosion,Castrol suggested using disenfectant ,I tried jeyes fluid but did not work,and also aereate the fluid often as the bacteria seems to grow when the machine is not in use. Changing the fluid more frequently seems to be one option. Back in the late1980s where I worked four cnc machine suffered from bacteria growth,theses were running 24/7 yet the high performance solubles oil had bacteria growth ,as the project only lasted 6 months we lived with it.On an automated machining cell,where stoppages had to be kept to a minimum, the problem was resolved by using a very expensive neat oil,initially developed by Boeing for high speed routing of aircraft components. the oil was applied as an air blasted mist. Soluble oil no doubt had to be changed many years ago as in my youth there were lots of cases of dermatits ,particularly when working on capstan lathes,and the soluble also rotted your shoes and boots until someone found that the old TUF shoes of the 1960s stood up to the oil, but for machining and long life it was far better.
|Thread: Pillar drill motor size?|
I/2 hp single phase seems to be the standard for half inch capacity pillar drills ,with a standard low spindle speed of around 500 rpm, As your machine has back gear and your using the back gear low speed range,I would try the 1/3 hp motor. Set the belt a little slack as if you stall a s/phase motor it will burn out very quickly as I once found out.
|Thread: Machining castings in the 4-jaw - knocking?|
Agree with most comments, I would use a faceplate,cutting speeds of 80 ft per minute for HSS and 3 times faster for brazed carbide rough across the surface with brazed carbide, then finish off with HSS ,the tool tip needs a small radius to improve finish,if roughing is carried out with HSS then regrind the tool before finishing,when roughing do not bother to hone the HSS tool, When clamping a small casting to a faceplate,start by checking to see if the cast face which beds against the faceplate is flat and does not rock, use a file to remove any high spots sometimes shim is suggested buts its not so easy to hold the casting ,and clamp it at the same time, and bits of shim flying round can cause nasty cuts to your fingers.then when the second face needs machining check again to see if the casting rocks on the faceplate as it may have slightly distorted due to internal stresses being relieved,if the surface is not flat then with a casting the size of the engine boxbed lay a sheet of emery paper on a flat surface and rub it around until the surface is flat hen clamp it to the face plate,It is best to machine the lower surface of a boxbed first. At work one job that used to regularly occurr was the cast bed for a travelling microscope about a foot long ,8 inches wide and about 2 ins high, it went through a similar process,only 3 bolted to a 28 inch faceplate,100 castings total, its surprising how castings do move after machining even after being in store for some time,we used to have to file the base flat to a surface plate before the top working surface was machined,That job was full of interrupted cuts .
|Thread: Turning Cartwheels|
I once had a 10hp Hornsby oil engine on this type of wheel and as I found they are very heavy and probably expensive to make at the time.Though no doubt they needed to be strong as many were exported and expected to stand up to hard colonial use . I assume your farm boy engine is a US style hit and miss engine ,the usual wheel for these had round steel spokes riveted at the rim,how they fitted in the hub I do not know ,never seen a broken one or been asked to repair one. though some people regard these engines as cheap and rough, the more popular ones eg Amanco (associated) were made in vast numbers at really competative prices and are the result of first class low cost production engineering so I doubt if the spokes were threaded in ,more likely just a tight fit and held in place by the rim.
|Thread: Tribological query re shafts and bushings!|
Silver steel for the pins,mill the ends square. use leaded bronze for the bushes (do not use phosphor bronze) or try Oilite bushes if they list the size required. I would never consider steel on steel for bearings,which are only lubricated by oil can.
|Thread: Lathe Motor running Lumpy :-)|
Looked up Chester spec,its expecting a lot to drive a 6 inch c/h lathe,with a speed range of 60 to 1800 rpm wiith a 1.5 kw (2hp motor) If a new motor is required I would think 3 hp 3 phase is a minimum, Older lathes of this type used to have smaller motors as they had a lot lower top speeds its the 1800 rpm that kills a 1.5 hp motor plus the extra load when the feed shaft is engaged. Though I dont know why the motor is lumpy I would have expected a total failure,I have owned 3 Colchester students /masters (similar size) of early and late types and as spindle speeds increased over the years ,so motor HP has increased.
|Thread: Any tips for aligning mill vice / workpieces?|
I use a 12 in long hardened and ground parallel in the vice jaws and clock over the whole length,i use a Mercer dial type indicator,In my early days first job, all the vices had tenons they were used on 2 Victorias with identical tenons,the method does not work so well if the vice or vices have to be used on 2 or more mills with variation of tee slots. When the vice is set true with the parallel ,I then use my edge finder against the parallel and set the edge of the fixed jaw to zero on the index dial, the parallel is 2 x 1 ins and protrudes about 1/2 inch out of the jaws.
|Thread: Alexander Master Toolmaker|
If you replace the main motor ,I would suggest fitting a new 2hp motor,Horizontal milling can take a lot of power.
|Thread: Recommended Beginners Measuring Tool Set|
Still have all the tools I bought from the time I started work and still have them 63 years later,which measuring & prescion tools do I still use most, for hand and machine work,1 inch M & W micrometer,6 and 12 inch rules flexible 1/2 inch wide,small dot(prick) punch ,centre punch 3/4 pound hammer,mercer dial gauge,reading .001 ins, surface gauge, squares ,one M&W prescision all hardened,4inch square (cost me an arm and leg)plus a cheaper 6inch square. M&W surface gauge ,3 inch spring adjustable dividers these have rectangular legs at the time round leg dividers were much more expensive,since them I have aquired dividers with round legs which are a lot nicer to use.I have an Eclipse spring centre punch which was my fathers,I never use it a prick punch is far more accurate,and cheaper. Mitituyo 6 inch dial caliper 30 years old, ok for approximate measurements gets used a lot when roughing out work on the lathe,never use them for finish dimensions, When I took early retirement and did commercial work I aquired a lot more equipment plus as a hobby I got on to restoring larger stationary engines, Most of this equipment was just aquired,and a lot bought at auto jumbles and used tool dealers,buying tools made by the best uk and usa makers, eg M&W,Starrett,Brown and Sharpe,Eclipse. Boot sales are not a reliable source old precision tools are often worn and very often overpriced though there can be bargains.
|Thread: Machining soft jaws|
The photo is good it shows what the Taig chuck is all about, I would suggest making some more sets of 3 jaws in alloy or mild steel.they could be kept in numbered sets drilled s they could be attached to the lower steel jaws and for position accuracy a locating dowel could be used provided the lower steel jaw can be drilled and reamed.So two sets could be made with similar jaws to conventional 3 jaw chuck and another kept in hand as spareThe usual soft jaw use is for holding a part or a batch of parts very accurately,also good for holding thin washers,and despite the comments above, they can be used to prevent damage to the workpiece,for instance on a larger chuck ,a workpiece with a fine thread and larger than an available collet can be held safely and accurately in soft jaws. Industrialy it was quite usual to see soft jaws with special jaws welded on, EG like pieces of steel tube which had a large area of grip to hold thin tubular workpieces.
|Thread: silver soldering|
more heat required,cpper should be bright red, I would use easy flo flux for copper pipe, get the part up to heat quickly the flux should melt ,them move the torch flame away and touch the copper with the solder,the heat in the copper has got to be able to melt the solder,when the solder just starts to melt re apply the heat and feed the solder into the joint.
|Thread: Making a knurled thumb wheel|
How to spoil the cross slide of a Myford by letting the dieholder handles strike the machined surfaces,not the way I was trained to do a job like that. In my working days a batch of a hundred or more alloy knobs would be polished on an old lathe, previously they had been turned to a good finish, a "flat" file would be used ,this was a file with the usual wooden handle,all the file teeth had been ground off on a surface grinder,one could easily be made from a length of BMS, the handle is essential for safety, then emery paper was used usually 0 grade then 00,a finally 600 paper. A strip of emery was wrapped around the file ,thin oil a bit thinner than 3 in 1 was applied the the paper and the flat file with emery was passed acoss the face of the knob ,a hand tool rest could be used,that was up to the operator, the finishing single stoke would be upwards,all three grades of paper would be used to get a very fine finish.they were then washed off with petrol ,very carefully placed in a wooden rack with lots of holes and then to the paint shop for a spray coat of clear laquer.
|Thread: First attempt at trepanning.|
I have trepanned a lot of black sheet steel,I have found that a parting tool ground with adequate clearance and some top rake and a flat cutting edge towards the work dos not work very well and tends to chatter.An easier way is to grind a full rad on the front of a parting tool start off by feeding in by hand until it starts protesting,then move the tool by the cross slide by just under the width of the tool,and feed in again,then move it back until the tool is central to the two groves then feed in until the tool protests,then repeat the process until the centre is removed,Now the centre piece could go anywhere and jam possibly damaging the lathe bed so its best to drill a hole in the centre and mount a rod in the tailstock chuck,feed the rod via the tailstock thro the hole in the plate and into the bore of the chuck this will act as a catcher,keep your hands out of the way until the lathe is stopped.finish off the bore in the outer plate with a boring tool.I would not use power feed on this type of work.
|Thread: Whatever must IKB be thinking ?!|
I reckon IKB would be wondering why do we have to go to the orient for the design and build of trains,
|Thread: Centec 2a vertical head shaft bearings.|
Machine up a steel disc to fit into the bore of the outer shell of the bearing,tack weld it in place using arc welder,then use a stout steel rod down the spindle bore,beat it out. this allows a blow inline with bearing bore and the welding tends to shrink the bearing slightly and loosen it. Done this many times removing sleeve double row ball bearings from lorry steering gears,good earner until my friend who reconditioned motor parts bought his own welder.
|Thread: Milling on a Lathe with a Vertical Slide|
a long time ago Myford offered two vertical slides,one fixed one swivelling, at the time I chose the swivellig type as it had a larger table,I found the main problem was the single bolt clamp, later on the two bolt clamping was introduced.
|Thread: What to do when you lose something|
Found my screwdriver,it had rolled under the hot water cylinder.During my early days I manage to cut my 6 inch rule in half when using the works guillotine,eventually one end of the rule was cut down to 1 1/4 ins and was used a lot when setting the tools on a Ward 2a Capstan,it was very easy to get this short rule in amongst the turret tooling.And it still got used until earlier this year,i used to measure some work on the mill as the end of the usual six inch rule fouled on something, and since then I just cannot find it,it annoys me that rule has been in the top right hand small drawer of my M & W cabinet since about 1960 and now I have lost it,probablly in the swarf. It was one of those Chesterman half inch rules where on one side the 1/32 graduations are on the edge nearest to you ,turn it over and the 1/32 graduations are away from you. they were very useful rules for imperial measurements,cant get one nowadays. Going back to capstan lathes ,I just wonder how capstan lathes were made by Wards and Alfred Herbert,there must have been thousands of them,Look at any film made during the war showing engineering works,there is always a lady shown making components for the war effort going like mad on the turret capstan handle.
|Thread: Lever scroll chuck with one hole set|
My Burnerd lever scroll chuck came brand new,and had a round tommy bar in th box,this fits the 3 holes on the periphery
|Thread: Mt3 extension for tailstock|
Step up sleeves are often regarded as a no no ,basicaly in the wrong hands it can seriously strain a tailstock,for instance a Colchester with 3 MT tailstock can take a 1 1/4 dia drill ,a 4mt step up sleeve would allow a 2in drill to be used a 3/4 inch dia increase would put a hell of a load on the tailstock sleeve key and keyway,similarly a 2 to3 step up would allow a Myford to drill with a 11/4 in drill. I knew a toolroom foreman who kept the very largest collets of Clarkson autolock chucks and jump up sleeves locked away and their use had to be approved,The extension sleeve on the other hand with similar MT capacity at each end can be useful for reaching over the saddle,one use is when setting up work on the face plate,lets say a flat plate requires a hole to be bored in it ,the position of the hole can be centre popped or centre drilled,the plate can the be held against the face plate,the tailstock with extension and a centre can be advanced towards the the work so that the centre engages with the centre pop,pressure from the tail stock can hold the work in place and clamps fitted.Without the extension the tailstock on many lathes will foul the saddle before the centre can reach to the work.
|Thread: Milling on a Lathe with a Vertical Slide|
I did nearly all the milling for a 1 1/2 in Allchin traction engine on a Myford using the swivelling vertical slide,myford machine vice,largest Myford angle plate and occasional an eclipse angle plate bolted to the cross slide, most of my milling was done with various home made fly cutters which cost nothing,slot and end mills were held in the new Burnerd 3 jaw,no eER systems in those days,and this set up did a good job and the satisfaction was being able to do it all at home. My day job then was in a toolroom where we had a brand new Deckel FP3 mill cost £5k in 1967,and home jobs were an absolute no no.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.