Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: bore measurement|
Before all the fancy bore gauges etc were available in the early part of the 20th century, and before,,turners used calipers and a rule ,their calipers were the firm jointed type,they would not use spring type calipers with screw adjustment,they would get a close fit in a bore by adjusting the calipers by hand and then adjust to get a very fit by just tapping the arms of the caliper usually on the lathe toolpost and apparently they were very accurate,if large numbers of one size were required then hardened go/no go plug gauges would be used,a lot of shops only had a few micrometrs usually in the care of the foreman. During my apprenticeship our boss used to tell us how jobs were done when he started work. For small bores the M & W bore gauges are very accurate, for larger work I have M&W plus some Mitutoyo telescope gauges plus an internal mike with with a range of 2 to 6 inches, I find the M & W tele gauges are better than the oriental ones,they have a better feel. when I can get at the open end of a bore I tend to use a Swiss Rochalon vernier where the outside of the jaws is machined to a radius, and then use these jaws as a bore gauge I find knife type jaws are not accurate enough, by using a mike to measure across the jaws and using the same mike to measure the mating piston or shaft only one measuring instrument is used,for better accuracy ,if the verniers reading is used then it introduces a possible secondary error.with all these methods it does require a lot of practice .
|Thread: Tom Senior M1 refurb|
suggest remove the swivel base from the vise,that will give a bit more spindle clearance.I had one of these a long time ago,very good sturdy mill ,absolutely spoilt by limited vert spindle headroom.I made a castiing to raise the column ,but never did fit it,bought a turret mill instead and sold the TS.
|Thread: Tom Senior LV modifications.|
An 80 mill shell mill on a light vertical,thats being rather cruel to your mill,it may have an r8 spindle and and 1hp motor but that does not make the machine capable of such hard work.
|Thread: Stuart Twin Victoria: Advice & General Questions|
I agree with Ramon,avoid square/rectangular material ,machine from round stock,and use HSS for all this turning.Carbides ok for making large batches of parts as there is less tool wear,or for roughing out as the carbide chip breakers produce compact short chip swarf. The 1mm cutting disc in an angle grinder used to rough out tools from hss bits,does save a lot of time compared to grinding lots of material to dust on a conventional grinding wheel.
|Thread: Tap/Die sets - BSW/BSF or UNC/UNF?|
Read the posts no mention of 26 tpi brass thread,very useful thread series for models and full size restoration,I have only bought two cased sets of taps and dies, in recent years a whit set up to 1/2 inch as my collection of loose whit items were wearing out after 40 odd years of use, with one snag ,the o/dia of the dies was the same rather small size,so it was easy to die a small thread with the die holder,but near impossible to cut 1/2 inch with the same die holder,next time I buy a larger die over the web I will also find what the o/dia is so that it will fit my larger and long handled die holder.My other set is a 1940 (so the inspection ticket said)ex military 1/2 to 1 inch whit tap and die,45 years old brand new covered in WD grease no rust and beautifully made in a green wood lined steel case,each die has a set up ring and guide which in turn fits into the large dieholder,so that a die can be set to cut size and can removed from the die holder without loosing the adjustment.The superb sliding block tap holder is made in polished steel and it gets used far more on driving all my other large taps than producing just whit threads ,the tap holder its self was well worth the cost of the whole set. My only regret was that I did not buy a similar BSP set offered to me at the same.So in reality its more economical to buy taps and dies as and when you want them, as for type of thread it does not really matter as long as the result looks right,the fasteners should be close to scale,
|Thread: Stuart Twin Victoria: Advice & General Questions|
It depends how close one wants to follow full size practice,the keyway in a flywheel should be tapered and fitted with a taper key,so its a case of either mounting the flywheel at the required small angle on a faceplate or planing from the locked saddle using the top side set at a small angle,on small engines a tapered key will fit in a parallel key way in the flywheel ,the taper key jamming on the front edge of the parallel keyway.When used on a parallel keyway the taper on the key needs only to be a few thou not the usual 1 in 96 taper.Another way on would be to make the keyway in the flywheel parallel ,which is easier and cut the key way in the crankshaft at a slight angle ,a lot easier.Some years ago I was asked to cure a flywheel problem on a full size one hp International open crank i/c engine the owner had bought it as restored,but the flywheel kept moving down the crank shaft and the gib head of the key was up against the flywheel boss,thekey came out easily and I saw that it was a home made new one as genuine taper keys are never made by end milling,the circular marks were easily seen, then when I put a mike on the key,the key was tapered by a thou in the wrong direction, there are some idiots around. a new correctly tapered key got it running again.
|Thread: Wheel out of true|
Looking at the photo of a wheel on a myford faceplate,my method is to rough machine the wheel,and leave the width of the flange oversize , then grip the wheel flange with soft jaws in the 3 jaw chuck,then machine to size the wheel tread ,the inner side of the flange ,face off the front of the wheel rim and boss and then drill,bore, and ream the axle hole,only leave about 5 thou on diameter for reaming, I know that leaving small amounts to be removed by reaming is supposed to cause the reamer to rub and wear,but I have found that it produces good results,and only a few holes are being machined,its not production .Better to loose a reamer than expensive wheel castings. the wheel can then have the back faced off and the rad on the outer rim machined ,the important bit of this method is that the the critcal machining is done at one setting,with good concentricity and no wobble.
|Thread: Experiences with cordless drills|
Bought an 18 volt DE Walt last year with two LIon batteries,I waited until Screwfix had an offer,recencty bought a De Walt 18 volt impact driver ,the smaller one with 1/4 inch hex drive,did not buy batteries as the two already I have are common to both drill and driver,both are very powerful tools,The hammer impact action stops any twisting of your wrist,and it will drive a 4 inch no 10 woodscrew straight into a 4 inch thick bit of timber as a test,plus there are now torqx head wood screws available which drive in so easily without slipping.
|Thread: Other uses for horizontal milling cutters?|
I recently started to downsize my workshop pending the sale of my property and then it all fell through,my advice is that if you get rid of something you will need it next week,so keep your cutters,just oil them and stop rust. A lot of cutters can be used in a vertical mill. Another use fo convex and concave cutters is mount them on a length of bar so that they can be used in the toolpost of your lathe,they make very accurate radius form cutters,when one tooth gets blunt rotate the cutter one tooth and get another sharp cutter.I certainly would not dispose of slitting saws and gear cutters.
|Thread: Was the old Jag V12 any good at the side of this 12 pot|
Remember the mk3 ,two litre Cortina GXL, nice fast comfortable car,apart from rust,and camshaft wear, I replaced my camshaft and did a decoke at the same time,oh dear found the head bolts had internal splined heads, two sizes of special i/2 inch drive socket keys had to be bought from somewhere in the mdilands,used once and, are still in my toolbox.Never found another use for them.The camshaft kit with modified oil pipe solved the problem,but in those days 1974 the oil was not up to lasting for 5k miles so went back to changing at 3k intervals,as per my earlier cars and no further camshaft problems.Now got a Discovery 4 when these came out the recomended way to change cam and fuel pump belts,was to take the body off,though mechanics have found ways round this,Changing the auto gearbox fluid is apparently a nightmare ,cannot be completely drained, a chassis cross member has to be removed and a sort of sump plate has to be removed to change the filter. and more bad news ,the crankshaft in the V six diesels have a habit of breaking,plus main bearings known to move in their housing. The tank fuel level senders recently failed,due to a known cable fault,Ok I thought until I can get it repaired,just fill up the tank log the miles and fill again,oh no,the fuel sender failure tells the engine management system that there is no fuel and shuts down the engine systems.Despite its Land Rover heritage ,off its dismal but its the best towing vehicle I have ever owned, 6 inch Burrell plus ifor trailer ( gross 3 1/4 tons) pulled this load with no effort,and using half the fuel that my old Range Rover used,but the Rangy was far better off road.
|Thread: More on Austin cars|
I had a Morris 1000 pickup around 1963 quite low mileage but gutless so a decoke was tried to see if it would improve the performance,I aquired a couple of part used tins of valve grinding past I was to tight to buy a new tin,in my local motorcycle club there were a couple of good vehicle mechanics and one showed me how to decoke a car engine,with the comment "i shall show you how a garage does a decoke none of you rmotor cycle porting and polishing,despite a lot of checking, performance did not improve. later on my my wife had a 1098 traveller from new,and did that one go,it clocked up 185 K miles the engine ,transmission clutch were all original ,regular oil changes no doubt helped,it had a mon morning transmission and a friday night shift body,Anyway those two tins of grinding paste lasted until a few weeks ago when they finally run out after grinding in the valves of a National o/crank engine,so I went into Halfords to buy some more paste,half expecting to find none,asked an assistant if they still sold grinding paste his reply yes we do ,but in the 5 years I have worked here no one has asked me for some,Apart from vintage engines I have not decoked a car for at least 35 years. A lot of the older stationary engines have a hole drilled and tapped in the centre of the valves so that a threaded rod with a handle can be used to grind the valve in.A tip learnt in those days ,was that very often when hitting a bump or landing after a jump on competion motor cycles,the handle bars would move in their clamp , the cure was to remove the clamps ,clean off any paint and then smear the clamps with coarse grinding paste,and then do the clamps up tight,It stopped the bars moving on my Greeves.
|Thread: Stuart 10V Build Log - Complete Beginner...|
I have had the same experience,with me,brass and bsp.eg taps that have no clearance and jam in holes,plus dies that do not cut, nowadays I tend to bite the bullet and get HSS ground thread. I have British made BA and 40 tpi taps/dies,carbon steel cut thread now over 50 years old which still cut to size,its the source thats the problem,too much made from "bamboo"
|Thread: Another lathe question|
I used a Myford S7 in an upstairs bedroom situated above the kitchen,no complaints ,though I did scare my wife when a large chunk of steel fell out of the bench vice.
|Thread: Bleeding hydraulics|
I made a hydraulic log splitter ,double acting ram,running off my 1973 International 474 tractor ,which had single acting hydraulics so fed the hydraulic fluid back into the gearbox via the gearbox filler,and operated the ram via a modified control valve, the gearbox ran on Internationals own Hytran hydraulic fluid ,ran the tractor for 35 years and the logsplitter unit for about 15 years and never had any air in the system and never had any problem with oil going milky which seem to occur with Fordson majors and others.
|Thread: Horizontal Milling Attachments|
If you have the space I would buy a horizontal only mill ,probably cheaper than an attachment which might not fit your machine also attachments such as these are not that rigid.
|Thread: Omnimill 00|
The vertical motor on my 00 failed so I lashed out and got a Newton Tesla inverter and 1.5 horse power motor,I can now reduce the speeds considerably to drive larger dia cutters on tough mterials. The horizontal spindle also suffered the same problem as I had a handful of brand new cutters up to 6 inch dia but could not use them on the 100 rpm lowest speed for steel and ougher materials, I found by rotating the vert head through 90 degrees and swiveling round the whole top assembly ,so that the vertical pulleys and the horizontal pulleys are in line and using a longer belt I can drive the horizontal spindle at very low speeds. For most horizontal work the original motor is ok for most purposes ,its just occasionally that a really slow speed is required. As with most of this type of mill,the vertical head ccould be more rigid,so for work with the head vertical and quill locked I have stiffened the assembly by boring a one inch thick steel plate to suit the quill and attached the end of the plate to the round overarm,the plate is split so that 2 bolts clamp the plate securely to the quill. big improvement with large end mills,and the mill is used in this mode most of the time.A good mill for its overall size .but I do miss my Elliot Milmor with its 50 inch table.
|Thread: Moving a Myford VMC advice needed thanks!|
I have moved a number of machine tools and rally stationary engines,plus have collected and sold a few. The worst problem with vans is that very few have any points for securing straps and rope, one chap came to collect an Amanco staionary engine,small van with plywood lining and with only the bodywork spotwelded on stiffeners,managed to thread some thin rope through the gaps,went to pull tight and the van sides just started to pull inwards,they are not very strong and its not your van, If you dismantle the machine take some timber and old blankets to stop the parts rolling around and dont forget hard breaking or worst still an accident all those heavy bits will come forward.Try to find a mate with car and trailer lot easier. beware of planks when unloading,I have seen planks bend ,break and slip,on the rallyfield. had a friend slip when unloading a valuable stationary engine,result bent crankshaft,on 110 year old engine,Years ago I sold a drill mill on stand ,buyer turned up in merc van,and had no I dea what to do and came with no staps or rope,he thought the mill would stand up on its own,had to give him some rope.I move all my stuff on a trailer,
|Thread: Engineering Sights on Google Streetview|
Portable boiler,found in dockyards to provide temporary steam supply to ships when under repair,
|Thread: fly cutter wear|
with a low speed of only 250 rpm and a cutting speed of 100 feet per min ,the max radius of cut using HSS tools is only about 3/4 of an inch, tool wear is due to using too high a cutting speed, If speed cannot be reduced then carbide is the answer, the older style carbide cutters with the carbide brazed to a steel shank produces quite good results,better than using screwed on inserts ,the brazed shank is more rigid.
|Thread: interest renewed|
long ago I kicked off model making at home with a Fobco Drill,Myford 7 and a home made bench grinder. I used a vertical slide for milling , It did all I required when building an Allchin T E I held any milling cutters in a brand new Burnerd chuck without problem and did most of my milling using various home made flycutters only using end mills /slot drills when a slot or pocket was required to be machined,as fly cutters cost virtually nothing and I was well satisfied with results I achieved with the Myford slide,at the time I worketd in a brand new toolroom with a Deckel FP3 one of the worlds best milling machines of its type,,i did not go home wishing i had better equipment ,I was content with what I had. 3 jaw chucks are ok to hold cutters provided the jaws are in good condition and not bell mouthed, if a cutter slips in good chuck then perhaps one is overloading the whole set up plus the advantage of a chuck to hold the cutter is that the mass of the chuck dampens vibrations, Full size Fritz Werner milling machines had a built in flywheel on the machine spindle, to reduce vibrations,55 years later a wide range of tool holding and small milling machines are readily available. The ER collets are good for cutter and drill holding ,though I still prefer the Clarkson screwed shank cutter system when say working on a vintage engine crankshaft ,re cutting a keyway where a cutter coming loose or just moving in the collet could cause irreparable damage.
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