Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Garden shed find|
Very good machines,before you proceed too far with cleaning check that the morse taper spindle bore is in good condition ,old machines do turn up with damaged tapers and will retain drills and chucks.I once came aross an old Meddings which had the taper machined out to a parallel bore I never did fathom why , as the drill was free it was used for spares and the column was a useful length of tough steel.A machine tool fitter once told me the gears for the hi/low box are tufnol and easily damaged by operators changing speed before the spindle stops,his comment was "I have replaced an awful lot of those gears so wait till the spindle stops" .
I have made a lot of helical gears for stationary engine,timing and sideshaft,and one or two magdyno geas. What I have learnt is I now ask the customer if it is to drive a reconditioned magneto after one customer complained of gear wear,the mag was very difficult to turn the bearings were far too tight, Do not mix gears with different pressure angles ,fine teeth will really whine, eg Gardner ) 0 gas engine 14 dp ,not my gears. On course gears eg 10 and 8 dp where the engine has been well corroded in the past and the mag gear is missing ,pressure angle gears can be mixed as they run so slow. and hit and miss igniton will drown any noise.Do NOT cut the teeth at an angle they must be spiral cut, I would not use any soft material eg ali and tufnol ,try to use similar steel and the hardness of the original ,particularly when dealing with high perfomance Velo engine, they knew what the were doing. using a very close module gear does work sometimes as the difference is so small and all form gear cutters are a compromise.When copy ing spiral gears on a universal mill ,set up the spiral lead attach the old gear or a borrowed genuine gear, set a small dial gauge to a tooth and wind the table handle to ensurethat your gears are set up correctly spirals set to the various tables in Machineries handbook,sometimes a bit of adjustment of the gear ratios is worth trying to get the spiral the same or very close to the original.
|Thread: Is your spindle bore large enough?|
For stationary engine work,and a lot of tractor work,plus fittings on full size steam I use a 6 1/2 c/h Colchester long bed master,spindle bore size ,it just takes nominal 1 5/8 dia bar,very useful. The advantage of Uk Built lathes is their weight ,foreign lathes are half the weight or less, I did have a Triumph with 2 inch bore and even then with some commercial work I borrowed a friends Mascot with 3 inch bore very usefull on pipe or tube work,and machining 2 ft plus flywheels. A Triump will not take 2 ft dia which was a nuisance as it would not hold a lot of Lister flywheels
|Thread: Home built trailer|
this note may be helpful to trailer owners who tow their models and preserved engines, A friend 50 miles from home was visiting relations,some towrag stole his catalitic converter on the exhaust,breakdown service arrived loaded the vehicle and then the operator found that the car owner had two dogs and he refused to carry them,so separate arrangements had to be made for the dogs.I had 54 years of AA membership with the AA including the relay get you home, I made enquiries and the following was confirmed in writing from the AA . The AA will only carry pets in their lorry cab at their absolute discretion,and went further that this discretion is entirely in the hands of the lorry driver when he arrives at the breakdown, they will not allow pets to be carried in the car which is on the back of the lorry.On the other hand if you are towing a trailer, if the car breaks down they will also tow the trailer home,also if the trailer breaks down they will take it home on the lorry and you make your way home in the car. So if your car breaks down and you have a pet ie the dog/s it could be tough luck " the car gets home but you do not," So I looked at the RAC now they take pets in your car at the owners risk so thats ok,they will take your car home and tow a troadworthy trailer behind the lorry. but if your trailer breaks down again its tough luck ,a bit risky if there is a miniature traction engine in the trailer which could be worth up to 50 grand.Then I found at extra cost the RAC has a scheme at a lot of extra cost ,where they will take a broken down trailer or caravan if you are a member of the camping and caravan club. So have a look at the smallprint of any breakdown service.
Over a long period,I have built six small trailers for motor cycles and stationary engines,plus trips to the dump.Some of my trips have been over hundreds of miles when buying stationary engines,My last home built trailer now 30 years old has had some updates,I based the chassis on those that indespension used to sell ie 6 ft x4ft ,measured up one down our local trailer centre when no one was looking,modified it by making it 6 inches longer and just over 4ft wide so that a new sheet of 6 x 4 sheet timber will fit inside and hang over the tailgate.It is unbraked I first used mini hubs and wheels and 500 kilo indespension units,first mod was to fit metro taper wheel bearings in the mini hubs which made the trailer roll better,and replaced two sets of indespension units due to bent axle shafts, the mini hub is only 7/8 ins dia and theindespension steel is not as strong as a Mini Spindle, All due to overloading with stationary engines and a 15 cwt surface grinder. The trailer now has Avonride units which have stronger one inch dia spindles,and trailer parts suppliers now have hubs to suit these axles and a variety of wheel sizes,try to get better quality bearings ,the real cheapo ones are not very good. The avon rides 550 Kilo capacityalso have solid arms from the rubber down to the axle and are a lot stronger than those made from rectangular tube.Try looking at Trailertek website. I would just build the trailer,stamp/mark on the max gross weight ,just guess it dont worry about weighing it, the gross weight has been mandatory for a very long time,also a safety chain is mandatory on unbraked trailers.nobody can tell how old it is so dont worry about latest regs which currently apply to manufacturers. Make the trailer neat and tidy,paint it and add plenty of tie down points,trailers only seem to get stopped by the law if they have poorly secured loads and look as though they will fall to bits. I carry stationary engines to rallies so need reliability so use 8 ply tyres ,carry a good spare wheel ,plus a new wheel hub and bearing.and jack,dont rely on the car jack as a lot of cars dont have jacks, my wifes Vitara had as standard the aerosol of glue in the boot in case of punctures, no jack or wheel brace, so I ordered the skinny get you home kit,the kit comprised the wheel and tyre,plus nut spanner and jack ,then when I checked the kit the wheel nut spanner did not fit,wrong size so the suzuki garage had to rob one from their stock of cars oops.and then made sure the skinny wheel fitted, What made me flaming mad was the agent told me that a full size spare would not fit in the boot well, so I checked it out when it was too late,the full size spare does fit with about a 2 inch loss of boot space.If building a trailer costs too much,try finding a trailer of known make and make sure that it is not been abused,rusty,and does not have perished tyres,If you do consider making a trailer to the full 750 kilo capacity I think you will find that 750 kilo spring units will beat the load to depth as these rubber sprung units will take well over their rated load. By the way for my larger engines up to 3/4 ton an Ifor williams with leaf springs is the best ,these springs give a really nice ride for the valuable load. The problem with an Ifor is theft prevention.
|Thread: Myford 7 Capacity Check|
why not go for a 5 inch centre height Boxford ,theres no gap but has the advantage of 5 inch capacity all the way down the bed,takes about the same space as a myford,and has a larger spindle bore.Note ,take care a lot of Boxfords are only 4 1/2 centre height
also consider a Colchester Bantam ,the earlier ones were 5 inch centre height ,later one shave increased centre height,although a bit larger and heavier they are a lot better for engine and motor cycle work as the spindle bore is larger.
|Thread: A few newbie questions, sorry|
On my circa 1974 Super 7 which I had from new ,i Found last year that one of the flip top oilers for the countershaft was not a tight fit in the casting,perhaps it was always a bit loose and the paint held it in, I secured the oiler with locktite,now reading of this failure of one oiler to feed ,it may be worth checking to see if the oiler is totally or partially blocked as the oilers are a light push fit were they assembled after painting and some paint was left in the hole.
|Thread: Yet another "parting off grief" thread ;)|
Problem is tool above centre height,with high speed tools cutting sped is usually half of normal cutting speed. 6 months of my apprenticehip was spent on capstan turning,(Ward 2a) collets and bar feed,mainly on small batches from 50 up to a 1000 items ,all parted off,using either front or rear toolpost ,never found any difference ,so one soon learned how to part off. Lubricant was full flood soluble oil,never used parting blades all tools were HSS bits ground with a few degrees side clearance,no carbide in those days for ordinary industrial use, nowadays at home I use hss parting blades and an insert tool,but those hand ground hss toolbits certainly cut better,and lasted longer ,on 1.375 dia brass a hand ground tool would last for a thousand cuts,similar size mild steel 200 to 300.We did use a nicely made tool height gauge to get correct centre height for front and rear toolposts.
|Thread: Remembering Apollo 11|
I was 28 at the time,and with my future wife we listend to the appolo events on her portable radio,while camping in the lake district it rained most days until the Saturday when the sun shone and we had to pack up and drive home to hampshire/surrey. we are still together and never been on holiday again since then. Disappointed the astronauts did not find any green men like Dan Dare did.
|Thread: Microns ...|
Microns !!! theres millions of them in an inch.
|Thread: Square Headed Screw Supplier|
I bought my Colchester several years ago at a government auction and my lathe came from a batch of machines from a prison, the Dickson wrenches and the saddle lock spanner were heavily etched with a number ID and all the square headed screws were missing from the Dickson tool holders ,no doubt they were held in secure storage as they may have been useful to the inmates,it cost a fortune to get replacement screws as they were whit or unc . One tip with Dickson tool holders all of mine have 3/8 square heads so I have adapted the 3/8 drive extensions from socket spanner sets , the socket fits over the square screw head and at the other end I have drilled a cross hole to take a silver steel tommy bar to make a T wrench ,a lot quicker to use than the dickson wrench. This T wrench also fits the locking screws for the top slide of my Myford Super 7 and makes access to the right hand screw a lot easier.
|Thread: Snail Problems|
Clean the copper tape till its bright and then spray the tape and some of pot with WD 40 they dont like it. A friend down the road last year had Roe deer eat the leaves but not the stems , it looked quite funny the leaves and beans then only grew from about 4 feet upwards,this year he bought a mains powered electric fence ,keeps the deer away but it now keeps trpping the house mains supply. I remarked it was cheaper to go down to Sainsburys for the beans.
|Thread: What method do you use to find center height for your lathe bit?|
I use a length of aluminium round bar faced off at each end,the length is the centre height of the lathe (bed to Centre) at the top end I have an offset steel penny washer secured with a small screw the washer overhangs the ally bar by about half an inch on one side, To set a cutting tool the top tip of the tool just slides under the washer,I used alloy bar so that if dropped or knocked over it does not damage machined surfaces of the lathe, I got this idea from my first job,a similar tool made from steel was used to set tooling on a Ward capstan, to set the rear toolpost tools the top of the bar just slid under the rear tool . Simple !!!
|Thread: Mystery Bamford engine|
A photo of the top of the water hopper and the side of the hopper where the spark plug goes would be most useful for identifying the type. Back in the early 1970s when stationary engine collecting took off it was quite common to find engines where the low tension ignition had been very crudely replaced with a high tension magneto,usually taken from an old single cylinder motor cycle engine.using a four cylinder mag was not a good idea though it was done. Driving the magneto at crankshaft speed was done to spin the magneto faster to get a better spark when starting,though it resulted in two sparks per four stroke cycle,resulting in one unused spark,commonly known as a dead spark.This engines conversion was home made and very crudely done though no doubt it had worked. it would look better if a more common single cylinder h t mag was substituted ,with a single light chain drive ,the Lucas ones used on lister D s would be a better bet, Until I see a photo of the side of the hopper it is difficult to say if this engine had an early Webster low tension magneto or the later Wico type EK .Both would be difficult to replace and expensive ,the Webster was not too reliable and existing ones can suffer from the zinc diecast corrosion/crumbling problems as the body was entirely diecast, yet other makes such as the amanco 4 bolt mag do not suffer the same problems.If you do try and change the mag for a better HT one ensure that the rotation is correct,mags were supplied with clockwise and anticlockwise rotation and conversion is not easy and best avoided.
|Thread: Using a Metal Cutting Disc on the SX2 Mill|
Using a abrasive cutting disc on a milling machine (or lathe and drilling machine) is an abosolute NO NO . ALL abrasive cutting and grinding including tool grinding should be done in a completely separate part of the shed or workshop.abrasive grit no matter how carefull the operator is ,will get into machine slides and ruin them.
|Thread: Hexagonal Socket Drive|
ok the theorys nice but could the real reason for going to hex drive commercial in that if you had say a set of whit sockets and the various drivers eg t bar ratchet,various extensions, when you needed extra some a/f or metric sockets you had to buy Britool sockets as other makers square drive would not fit your drivers. A friend who had a business reconditioning motor components many years ago had a Brittool hex drive set, they survived many years continuously used for stripping Bed ford steering boxes, they were nice to use and bit lighter than the king dick /elora square drives.
|Thread: Annealing Mild Steel|
Black hot rolled mild steel bends easily, the bright drawn strip with sharp edges will crack if bent to 90 degrees, cold rolled bright sheet usually bends easily, I do not know if it is still available but a long time ago rolled bright strip about 6 inches wide and up to .125 thick could be bought in varying conditions of hardness,when making prototype printer parts the trick was to saw a bit off the end of the strip and try to bend it,to make sure the stores had not cocked up the markings, it could be very annoying to make some part and then find it cracked on bending.
|Thread: help with gear calculations|
After all the theory,machine up a tryout gear and shaft in aluminium the od of the gear the same size as the original,cut say 6 six teeth on the ali gear with the standard dp cutter to standard depth and try it out,if its a tight fit cut the teeth a few thou deeper until it fits,this gear is ONLY used to rotate at very low speeds along a rack, it only needs to be precise if a graduated dial is fitted to the saddle hand wheel.very often odd gears can be made to work by trial and error with some adjustment to depth of cut or by shaving a very small amount from one side of the tooth.I once owned a Blackstone engine built in 1899 which had the spiral 2 to 1 ratio side shaft gears cast in iron ,the teeth were just cast and then just hand fettled to fit,and they ran smoothly and quietlly for over a hundred years, I once had to make for a customer a pair of Blackstone gears,they calculated out at 9 1/2 dp ,they probably cut the pattern at a whole number and the 1/2 deviation was due to casting shrinkage ,I used a 9 dp cutter and fiddled the cutter depth until I got a good fit ,there was very little adjustment on the shaft centres. what does not work so well is trying to mesh a as cast gear to a machined fiddle gear.
|Thread: Piston Ring slot|
the method I use on stationary engine pistons ,is on new pistons is to use a short stiff parting tool to rough out the ring groove to undersize on width and go in to full depth,then grind up very narrow left and right hand turning tools from HSS and machine each side of the groove (not at the same time) this gives dead square groove sides and good control over groove width.
|Thread: Why a round bed?|
The really clever bit of this round bed,is the ability to rotate the saddle to adjust the centre height above the crosslide.
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