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Member postings for Nigel McBurney 1

Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Normalizing cold rolled bright mild steel
17/01/2020 17:51:05

I remember reading in ME in the 1970s in an article by a master loco builder that a good way to avoid the stress relieving problem and be able to use a free machining material was to make items like the motion of locos from bright round bar or if stainless motion was required then use stainless round. Round bar has far less iif any built in stress and round is available in far more specification many being free machining. I can never understand why anyone even considers black hot rolled steel ,,thats for fabricators and blacksmiths.

Thread: Shimming Myford ML7 spindle
12/01/2020 09:59:42

I had a brand new ml7 back in 1968, ad it proved to be very accurate,and turned/bored truly parallell.indeed far better than a replacement new super 7, it did have one annoying fault,when running after a while on top speed which if I remember correctly was around 600 plus,the bearing would get warm and the spindle get tight in the bearings,at lower speeds it was ok,in five years use it did wear in a little and would run for longer periods without getting tight.did Myfords set them tight or was mine set up on top/bottom limit. I would not attempt to scrape in a such a relatively small white metal bearing,it is so easy to upset the alignment,I would prefer to shim the top cap cap,get some brown paper and make a shim and see how it runs,there is nothing wrong with paper shims and it lays flat,whem making brass shims and cutting them to shape and punching holes can distort the edges of the brass,its good enough for vintage engines which need a bit of clearance,a paper shim will not cause distortion of shell or bearing cap of the lathe.

Thread: lathe cutting fluid.
06/01/2020 11:05:20

Its nearly 5 years since this thread started,in that time I have downsized from the large turret mill to an 00 omnimill and have not used the pumped coolant ,just using a mug and brush, the coolant will go off in the mug if left for a week,I still have the Colchester master and still use castrol soluble oil,it goes off in less than a month,3 years ago the coolant tank leaked,removed the tank after a struggle,the bottom of the tank had severe corrosion,the sides were ok so a new thicker bottom was mig welded on,the pipe system and pump was cleaned and flushed,after a while the bacteria came back and the coolant goes off after a month or less. I live in a very hard water area and just wonder if this makes bacteria growth worse ,do people who live in soft water areas get the same problem? The soluble oil at first goes a bit muddy and if left too long the soluble turns to a murkey water with oil content gone.this liquid is quite corrosive.I have never tried rain water or distilled water.

Thread: A question of colour...
28/12/2019 12:27:52

I have painted my Stuart 600 gas/petrol engine in navy blue,same as my Gardner engines,looks very good. Hornsby of Grantham gas and oil engines were painted green in the early days ,around 1910 they used a maroon ,nearest modern equivalent is Ford imperial maroon,. I have seen a Stuart 600 in black which looks very nice.Difficult to find a good enamel paint nowadays which is oil resistant ,some modern paints,particularly coach paints take a long time to harden off.

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019
19/12/2019 19:07:11

Jason Its not a good idea to identify to the scrapman where you live,he or his mates may come calling when you are out and get all your stock.

Thread: Temporary oil conundrum
17/12/2019 11:08:06

I assume that chainsaw oil that is mentioned is for the chain and not the engine,I certainly would never use chain oil far too sticky,sometimes it can be so sticky that my small Stihl will not pump it onto the blade, the big Stihl does. I have used good quality branded multi grade and nothing else on my s7 for 50 years with no problems, mono grade motor oil with minimum additives now sold as clasic oil for pre war cars does not mix well with soluble oil ,it certainly made the saddle stiff on my colchester ,I do not have any problems with multi grade though I do not use the cheap rubbish. I think that the reason machine tool makers specify mono oils that are not suitable for auto use is that if motor oil was specified the workers would nick it for their cars and motor bikes.and also machine tool oil and hydraulic oils are cheaper than good motor oil.

Thread: Slip gauges
15/12/2019 09:45:25

I have aquired a lot of equipment over the years,including a good calbrated set of slip gauges,(at no cost) very occasionally used for measuring piston ring grooves on my stationary engines,I certainly would not buy a set,for a lot of work a set of Hoffman rollers in conjunction with a good little used set of feeler gauges is more than adequate for home measurement. Hoffman bearing co used to sell sets of very accurate hardened rollers,occasionally the s/h tool dealers have a set for sale,Slips should only be used on toolmaking work or inspection ,mainly in toolmaking where the parts are hardened and ground or setting up say a sine bar to measure precise angles. too much use on say rougher surfaces eg milled will cause wear on the slips.The measuring surfaces on slips should never be touched to avoid finger marking ,pick them up by the edges,if used to control stops on machine tools the narrow wear slips should be used on each end of the pile of slips though one is wasting time and effort and fooling oneself as most mill stops are not very accurate ,except perhaps when using a very good continental Deckel type mill.

Thread: Replacing a Clarkson 'autolock' chuck with a standard ER collet chuck?
08/12/2019 11:48:06

I have a Elliot omnimill with 3 MT horizontal spindle,and er collet chucks foul on the spindle lugs,I found that a er 32 chuck would fit with a minimum of grinding,and it did not break thro, I would now like to fit an ER 40 collet chuk and a quick look with a rule indicates that break through might be very close or would indeed break though, The modified er 32 has worked well for a couple of years.

Thread: Why mostly manual cars in UK
05/12/2019 22:03:21

I need a 4wd vehicle,high low transfer box, high towing capacity,for my hobby --stationary engines, in recent years a manual Discovery 3 was a disaster,unreliable ,manual g/box which I prefer was a nightmare in conjunction with an electric hanbrake which is either on,and I mean full on or off,a nightmare with a heavy trailer going up hill in stop start traffic,a manual handbrake can be held just on to prevent rolling back,let the cluch in and it takes off,with just a little bit of handbrake held on until the drive takefully up, the electric brake takes too long to release and and makes drivind smoothly difficult. Next a Nissan ,a manual good motor until yiu tow a trailer worst trailer tower I have owned in over 50 years,ultimatum from the other half,get a new Discovery 4,I was a bit reluctant as it was only available with auto g/box,never owned an auto before,and had only driven my mother aut austin 1100 many years ago MOT and back,awful car. I got used to the Discovery auto surprisingly quickly,it is superb with a trailer no risk of running back going uphill and do not use the hand brake in normal driving.But and a big but despite it being made by land rover it is b---y awful off road ,it would be a lot better with manual box ,with a manual you can pick the right gear for the conditions and hold that gear for the best wheelgrip ,my old manual v8 mk1 range rover was far far better off rd I can understand why a lot of drivers still prefer manual,lot better in tricky conditions,more likely to go expensivly go wrong, though I can see after 10 years of a multi gear auto why they are like by far more drivers particularly in dense traffic. years ago autos were usually 3 speed,a bit clunky ,cost more and used a lot more petrol,plus did noget good prices when trading in. One annoyance with my discovery auto is the hassle involved to get the g/box oil changed,or I should say partially changed as unless the box is completely dismantled it is impossible to completely change the oil,all that can be done is drain the oil ,then refill ,run so that the new oil mixes with some of the oil thats left in the box,then drain again and refill,plus draining on the discovery involves removing a chassis crossmember to drop the bottom pan to get at the oil filter,or buy an after market pan which saves disturbing the cross member,plus its best to go to a specialist,as getting the fill wrong would be vey expensive,

Thread: How should I check a milling machine?
03/12/2019 22:14:09

Aciera apart from wear issues which would be hard to correct, anything to do with this machine and other continental mills of this type is just expensive. the spindle size is a bit limited ok for making small very precise items Make sure that the machine has all the equipment and accessories,as you will not find anything on the used market,apart from the odd collet. I bid a couple of years ago for an f3 ,immaculate with ALL the equipment,it went for over £6k ,A bridgeport is a better bet for the model engineer,you should not run out of capacity,whereas capacity is limited on these small continental mills, I worked on a Deckel 50 years ago ,just superb at a price,

Thread: Breaking bandsaw blades
02/12/2019 18:46:26

I have "Do All " type bandsaw made in uk under licence by Alexanders, it has a built in butt welder,with a follow up anneal. I have found that if i am a bit too quick with the annealing the weld will break,changing supplier may be the answer.

Thread: Long bed lathes affected by the tide
29/11/2019 22:25:06

Believe Vospers were located in Gosport,west side of Portsmouth harbour, On the north eastern side of Portsmouth,around the old airfield area, close to Farlington marshes the tide was also known to affect the stability of machine tools,I believe it was Marconis & De Havilands factories. I dont remember which type of machines were affected,as most high precision machines are built with only three mounting points ie grinders,jig borers etc so they should not been affected ,where I worked a few miles along the coast the large Cincinatti cnc mill sat on a 4 ft deep block of concrete, Searching the net a while ago in Vickers archives,there were photos of the foundation of a very large long bed lathe ,probably for prop shafts, the excavation was 20 ft deep and around 100 ft long and then filled with concrete.Its well known that heavy presses and other tools eg drop forging stamps were know to upset other machine tools,and in more recent times electrical supplies to cnc sheet metal punches have been affected when spot and arc welders were in use.

Thread: Precision Tool Vice Type 2
25/11/2019 09:48:53

In My view one shoud be able to use a machine vice to its capacity without marking the mill table, One solution could be to cut a piece of gauge plate to the size of the vice base and place the plate between the vice base and the table,then it does not matter if the gauge plate is damaged,it should not affect the accuracy of the vice as gauge plate is ground parallel. I was apprenticed to a company that made scientific instruments,a lot went to education establishments,our boss had a saying ,when designing instruments they should be foolproof,idiot proof and then most important student proof. A toolmaker friend always preferred to use aluminium parallels when milling in the vice,his reason was that if he accidentally hit the parallel it did not wreck the cutter and if one is self employed you have to pay for a new cutter out of your pocket.

Thread: 1.1kw motor iffy
24/11/2019 11:11:07

I had an oil fired central heating boiler ,the fuel pump was driven by a single phase motor, the start capacitor was clamped to the motor within the dust cover and close to the burner housing. Occasionally the boiler failed to fire,internet boiler problem searches suggested capacitor failure,a new capacitor cured the problem,a friend with the right test meter confirmed the capicitance was just less than half the rating, some time later the capacitor failed again ,so I put the problem to the the capacitor was working in a confined hot location so I added longer wires and secured the capacitor in a remote cooler location within the boiler casing ,problem solved. I have single phase cap start motors on my myford and Fobco drill both over 40 years old ,good English built motors ,are modern motors being built with capacitors which are only just up to the job and fail when overloaded by multiple starts per hour.?

Thread: Oilers
20/11/2019 12:48:33

I have restored a lot of stationary engine oilers,Usual problem is that the needle is worn or the needle seat is damaged, the glass in the oiler also needs sealing. some modern oilers are rubbish,made from steel and brass plated. First of all test the oiler on the bench, lightly nip it by the hexagon in a bench vice,pour some oil in the oiler and seep if it drips when the needle is dropped in the closed position by the lever,then raise the lever and watch the drips they should drop repeatedly. If the needle leaks in the off position then remove the needle set up in the lathe ans turn a new taper just take off a few thou.Then tackle the seating in the brass body,the should not be tapered ie made with a dill ,a taper seating in a taper will leak,the seating should be flat ie made with a slot drill so that the needle seats on a sharp edge, very similar to ball seatings in steam fittings. Do not machine too much off as thes can prevent the needle from seating it will just be suspended above the seat. Now when testing the oiler for leaks,if the drips can be controlled and the oil is spreading over the vice ,the cause is the joint between the glass and brass flange, some oilers are fitted with plastic/fibre sealing washers which fail to seal, as they can be too hard,washers cut from 1.5 mm cork sheet work much better sometimes they need a small amount of sealant,a good oiler should maintain its oil for a long time.

20/11/2019 12:48:28

I have restored a lot of stationary engine oilers,Usual problem is that the needle is worn or the needle seat is damaged, the glass in the oiler also needs sealing. some modern oilers are rubbish,made from steel and brass plated. First of all test the oiler on the bench, lightly nip it by the hexagon in a bench vice,pour some oil in the oiler and seep if it drips when the needle is dropped in the closed position by the lever,then raise the lever and watch the drips they should drop repeatedly. If the needle leaks in the off position then remove the needle set up in the lathe ans turn a new taper just take off a few thou.Then tackle the seating in the brass body,the should not be tapered ie made with a dill ,a taper seating in a taper will leak,the seating should be flat ie made with a slot drill so that the needle seats on a sharp edge, very similar to ball seatings in steam fittings. Do not machine too much off as thes can prevent the needle from seating it will just be suspended above the seat. Now when testing the oiler for leaks,if the drips can be controlled and the oil is spreading over the vice ,the cause is the joint between the glass and brass flange, some oilers are fitted with plastic/fibre sealing washers which fail to seal, as they can be too hard,washers cut from 1.5 mm cork sheet work much better sometimes they need a small amount of sealant,a good oiler should maintain its oil for a long time.

Thread: Lathe chuck guards - how many folk use them?
13/11/2019 10:08:34

When I was a lad, in rural Sussex the factory inspector was a lady and the staff always seemed to know when a visit was due ,so there was a warning find the drilling machine guard and fit it ,none of the lathes had chuckguards,they were probably unheard of in those days, the horizontal mill always had it guards fitted,when the inspector left the drill guards went back on the shelf.

Thread: New three jaw chuck suggestions
13/11/2019 09:53:33

I have bought 8 inch Bison chucks in the past from Rotagrip ,and they have proved very good ,one is 30 years old and had a lot of commercial use, so I bought another for regular precise jobs and kept the old one for rough jobs,plus i have a 6 inch TOS from another source and that has proved ok, I buy my back plates and soft jaws from Rotagrip,though looking at current new prices,the eastern european chucks are a lot more expensive than they were,though I have found Rotagrip to be a good supplier, I have been told that Pratt Burnerd chucks also come from eastern europe though they still use their own dimensions for the jaw sizes etc. Never did see the point of the expensive grip true chuck, the ordinary Burnerd chuck was very good if looked after ,its overtightening and straining that ruins a 3 jaw chuck, I also have a 5 inch Burnerd chuck for my Myford ,i aquired it second hand,it required a backplate,so I machined the register with a couple of thou slop, put an inch dia precision roller in the chuck and trued it up on the back plate with bolts a little more than finger tight then really tightened it when was running true, you might ask why have a 5 inch chuck on a Myford when you also have a Colchester,well some times with tricky jobs which easily fit in the jaws of a 5 inch chuck do not fit so conveniently in 4 or 6 inch chuck jaws,and the 5 inch is for only occasional use,I dont go silly and spin it up to top speed.

Thread: Raw angle plate
13/11/2019 09:25:46

A long defunct local steel fabricating company ,at one time were a bit short of work so they made some heavy angle plates,about 10 inches long with sides of 8 inches,no webs,they used flat steel plate possibly one inch thick,for their own use. the plates were welded together ,i was told that they were annealed after welding,and prior to machining. My friend who worked there aquired some of the plates when the factory closed, some years later he gave me two of these plates, they were a bit rusty so I cleaned them up and found they were out of square by about two thou over 8 ins, so I set them up on my col triumph face plate using a good cast iron angle plat eand machined them square,after ten tears they are still square.so it can be done but the welding must be first class , I have some WDS cast iron angles,and a U section which is very useful, most I picked up at s/h dealers,auto jumbles or gifts from friends,they are very accurate ,new sections from WDS are horendously expensive ,if you buy a foreign angle plate or a used one take a good sqare with you and check the angle plate for squareness ,some can be out of square.

Thread: EN3 bowing after machining
13/11/2019 09:02:31

I have a long length of key steel (en 9) 1/2 by 3/4 which I use for stationary engine gib head keys,if I take a short length say 4 inches and machine down one side it will curl up by an 1/16 or more, so I usually get it red hot with the propane torch,for a few minutes and let it cool slowly on the fire brick hearth,this relieves the stress and machines ok in a straight line. To get over the T nut with a slight curve,i would cut the nuts to length, then set one at a time in the machine vice,with narrow bit of the t upwards just as they sit in the t slot in the machine,then take a light cut either side so that the part of the nut which comes in contact with the underside of the tee slot is truly flat. It should be flat so that it will spread the load on the underside of the t slot,it does not matter if the other surfaces of the t nut are not true.

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