Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Machining soft jaws|
The photo is good it shows what the Taig chuck is all about, I would suggest making some more sets of 3 jaws in alloy or mild steel.they could be kept in numbered sets drilled s they could be attached to the lower steel jaws and for position accuracy a locating dowel could be used provided the lower steel jaw can be drilled and reamed.So two sets could be made with similar jaws to conventional 3 jaw chuck and another kept in hand as spareThe usual soft jaw use is for holding a part or a batch of parts very accurately,also good for holding thin washers,and despite the comments above, they can be used to prevent damage to the workpiece,for instance on a larger chuck ,a workpiece with a fine thread and larger than an available collet can be held safely and accurately in soft jaws. Industrialy it was quite usual to see soft jaws with special jaws welded on, EG like pieces of steel tube which had a large area of grip to hold thin tubular workpieces.
|Thread: silver soldering|
more heat required,cpper should be bright red, I would use easy flo flux for copper pipe, get the part up to heat quickly the flux should melt ,them move the torch flame away and touch the copper with the solder,the heat in the copper has got to be able to melt the solder,when the solder just starts to melt re apply the heat and feed the solder into the joint.
|Thread: Making a knurled thumb wheel|
How to spoil the cross slide of a Myford by letting the dieholder handles strike the machined surfaces,not the way I was trained to do a job like that. In my working days a batch of a hundred or more alloy knobs would be polished on an old lathe, previously they had been turned to a good finish, a "flat" file would be used ,this was a file with the usual wooden handle,all the file teeth had been ground off on a surface grinder,one could easily be made from a length of BMS, the handle is essential for safety, then emery paper was used usually 0 grade then 00,a finally 600 paper. A strip of emery was wrapped around the file ,thin oil a bit thinner than 3 in 1 was applied the the paper and the flat file with emery was passed acoss the face of the knob ,a hand tool rest could be used,that was up to the operator, the finishing single stoke would be upwards,all three grades of paper would be used to get a very fine finish.they were then washed off with petrol ,very carefully placed in a wooden rack with lots of holes and then to the paint shop for a spray coat of clear laquer.
|Thread: First attempt at trepanning.|
I have trepanned a lot of black sheet steel,I have found that a parting tool ground with adequate clearance and some top rake and a flat cutting edge towards the work dos not work very well and tends to chatter.An easier way is to grind a full rad on the front of a parting tool start off by feeding in by hand until it starts protesting,then move the tool by the cross slide by just under the width of the tool,and feed in again,then move it back until the tool is central to the two groves then feed in until the tool protests,then repeat the process until the centre is removed,Now the centre piece could go anywhere and jam possibly damaging the lathe bed so its best to drill a hole in the centre and mount a rod in the tailstock chuck,feed the rod via the tailstock thro the hole in the plate and into the bore of the chuck this will act as a catcher,keep your hands out of the way until the lathe is stopped.finish off the bore in the outer plate with a boring tool.I would not use power feed on this type of work.
|Thread: Whatever must IKB be thinking ?!|
I reckon IKB would be wondering why do we have to go to the orient for the design and build of trains,
|Thread: Centec 2a vertical head shaft bearings.|
Machine up a steel disc to fit into the bore of the outer shell of the bearing,tack weld it in place using arc welder,then use a stout steel rod down the spindle bore,beat it out. this allows a blow inline with bearing bore and the welding tends to shrink the bearing slightly and loosen it. Done this many times removing sleeve double row ball bearings from lorry steering gears,good earner until my friend who reconditioned motor parts bought his own welder.
|Thread: Milling on a Lathe with a Vertical Slide|
a long time ago Myford offered two vertical slides,one fixed one swivelling, at the time I chose the swivellig type as it had a larger table,I found the main problem was the single bolt clamp, later on the two bolt clamping was introduced.
|Thread: What to do when you lose something|
Found my screwdriver,it had rolled under the hot water cylinder.During my early days I manage to cut my 6 inch rule in half when using the works guillotine,eventually one end of the rule was cut down to 1 1/4 ins and was used a lot when setting the tools on a Ward 2a Capstan,it was very easy to get this short rule in amongst the turret tooling.And it still got used until earlier this year,i used to measure some work on the mill as the end of the usual six inch rule fouled on something, and since then I just cannot find it,it annoys me that rule has been in the top right hand small drawer of my M & W cabinet since about 1960 and now I have lost it,probablly in the swarf. It was one of those Chesterman half inch rules where on one side the 1/32 graduations are on the edge nearest to you ,turn it over and the 1/32 graduations are away from you. they were very useful rules for imperial measurements,cant get one nowadays. Going back to capstan lathes ,I just wonder how capstan lathes were made by Wards and Alfred Herbert,there must have been thousands of them,Look at any film made during the war showing engineering works,there is always a lady shown making components for the war effort going like mad on the turret capstan handle.
|Thread: Lever scroll chuck with one hole set|
My Burnerd lever scroll chuck came brand new,and had a round tommy bar in th box,this fits the 3 holes on the periphery
|Thread: Mt3 extension for tailstock|
Step up sleeves are often regarded as a no no ,basicaly in the wrong hands it can seriously strain a tailstock,for instance a Colchester with 3 MT tailstock can take a 1 1/4 dia drill ,a 4mt step up sleeve would allow a 2in drill to be used a 3/4 inch dia increase would put a hell of a load on the tailstock sleeve key and keyway,similarly a 2 to3 step up would allow a Myford to drill with a 11/4 in drill. I knew a toolroom foreman who kept the very largest collets of Clarkson autolock chucks and jump up sleeves locked away and their use had to be approved,The extension sleeve on the other hand with similar MT capacity at each end can be useful for reaching over the saddle,one use is when setting up work on the face plate,lets say a flat plate requires a hole to be bored in it ,the position of the hole can be centre popped or centre drilled,the plate can the be held against the face plate,the tailstock with extension and a centre can be advanced towards the the work so that the centre engages with the centre pop,pressure from the tail stock can hold the work in place and clamps fitted.Without the extension the tailstock on many lathes will foul the saddle before the centre can reach to the work.
|Thread: Milling on a Lathe with a Vertical Slide|
I did nearly all the milling for a 1 1/2 in Allchin traction engine on a Myford using the swivelling vertical slide,myford machine vice,largest Myford angle plate and occasional an eclipse angle plate bolted to the cross slide, most of my milling was done with various home made fly cutters which cost nothing,slot and end mills were held in the new Burnerd 3 jaw,no eER systems in those days,and this set up did a good job and the satisfaction was being able to do it all at home. My day job then was in a toolroom where we had a brand new Deckel FP3 mill cost £5k in 1967,and home jobs were an absolute no no.
|Thread: Workshop and Drilling holes with an ER collet chuck|
I use er collets,keyless drill chuck with parallell shank and jacops chuck on 3mmt shank in my mill,but do most of my drilling on drilling machines, probably best to keep a new set of drill for use in ER collets then the drill shanks will not get scored as ERs have the best grip. Adviseable not to use old scored drills in collets as it may spoil the collets,or stone off any burrs on rough drill shanks. I have found that a lot of larger commercial countersinks have small 10mm shanks and a Jacobs chuck does not hold them tight and they tend to spin in the chuck,so I use an ER collet with MT shank in my drilling machine. A toolmaker would with the correct facilities would no doubt grind 3 flats on the countersink shank.
|Thread: Material for coupling rods|
I would use round bar, far more choice of material,virtually no distortion,leaded mild steel gives excellent finish,I have made con rods for full size stationary engines from en 1 A leaded and got execellent results and finish.I remember an ME article back in the 1970/80s where a top class modeller liked stainless coupling/con rods and othe valve gear for 5 inch locos and made them all from round free cutting stainless bar.OK it requires more machining at the roughing out stage but it worth it.I used carbide tips which have chipbreakers for the roughing out this avoids lots of strings of swarf,then finish off with HSS tools.
|Thread: Parting off 25mm copper|
This may be one of those occasions when an old style parting tool is required,ie ground from a square HSS toolbit where looking at the top of the tool the sides taper slightly inwards from the front to give side clearance,parting blades do not have this side clearance and tend to rub in difficult conditions,drops of Rocol lubricant would help.
|Thread: What to do when you lose something|
I have owned a good Stead screwdriver,for over sixty years,last week I changed the heating thermostat,put the screwdriver down,now cannot find it and still looking.
|Thread: Taper nosed drill chuck|
Back in the late 1950s the Boxford where I worked had one of these chucks,in the 6 years I was there it proved reliable and had a good grip.15 years ago at an autojumble ,a stall holder ,not the usual junk dealer, was changing his weekday tooling business and concentrating on metric tooling only,so had loads of new old stock imperial taps dies drills etc and in amonst the stock was a new boxed cardinal 1/2 inch chuck ,the chap said he was sorry the key was missing so i could have it for £5 what a bargain!,I soon found a key in my odd tool box though I do not know what make or type.Works well on my Master 2500.Yes the Cardinal it does appear to have a similar tapered screw/scroll design to the Taylor 3 jaw chucks. The Wilson 8 in lathe again where I worked had one of these Taylors and it always had an excellent grip on workpieces,in recent years when I aquired a very good Colchester Triumph with a good Burnerd 10 inch 3 jaw i found that work would slip in the Burnerd and have often thought that I never had that trouble with the Taylor chuck.
|Thread: Bandsaw - wood and metal ?|
I have a toolmakers Do All bandsaw made in uk under licence by G H Alexander it was possibly made during 1950/60s 2 speed motor varable speed down to below 100 ft per min,capacity ,it will cut steel up to 6 ins thick,it has a sort of "power feed" comprising a cast vee frame and a length of cycle roller chain,the the v lays flat on the table and the chain wraps around the outside of the vee ,the chain ends are attached to a cord which via a pulley system has a large weight on the end of the cord, the weight is enaged via a foot pedal and a screw system adjusts the load applied to the cord. ,cutting heavy pieces of steel would require extreme physical effort so there would be no chance of cutting 5 inch material in a vertical bandsaw. Also cutting any round material in a vertical bandsaw is a no no,DO NOT TRY IT. a horizontal band saw which really is only a modern development of the power hack saw with a big vice is the best way of cutting round material ,the advantage of the horizontal is that it saves time as there is no idle return stroke. An old Rapidor 6 inch is the best machine for cutting blanks,if there is no room in the workshop why not keep it in the garden with a "dog Kennel type shelter on wheels to keep it dry, a friend did this so that he could cut up long lengths of bar. Another way of achieving larger blanks is to get the metal supplier to sell you cut blanks at extra cost,Rounds or other shape cut via flame cutting,water jet, etc are usually cut from flat sheet which usually has poor machining qualities.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 spanner sizes|
Myford used the cheap end of the market black as forged UK made spanners as they knew that their lathes were good and did not need frequent adjustment so these spanners would not see much use.
|Thread: Anti seize grease on Myford spindle nose?|
Ady your statement that with back gear you never get a stuck chuck,there is also a very good chance that it will result in back gears with a few teeth missing. use a rag with a drop of 3 in 1 oil to wipe the nose thread,should a lathe be left left idle for a long time then loosen or remove the chuck. Especially on machines that have a pumped cooling supply of soluble oil.
|Thread: Recommended suppliers and services|
I use Arceurotrade excellent service, for ER collets and 3mt tooling for my mill, Rotagrip for chucks ,soft jaws,,Dickson toolholders, backplates,etc Screwfix for known branded power tools at good prices,, GM tools Ashington Sussex,bought lots of new/used tooling ie taps dies chasers lathe tools,lathe chucks,faceplates used machine tools.The last three I have used for over 30 years.
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