Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tapping head|
I used a Pawson tapping head when apprenticed as an instrument make,main use was 2 to 8 BA in aluminium,brass and cast iron, i think max capcity was around ) ba or 1/4 bsf.nice machine to use rarely broke taps ,having a nice smooth reversing action,the machine I disliked was the Archer tapper,a larger thing with a capacity of 3/8 whit or maybe a little larger.the forward reverse action was harsh and snatched A long time ago but I still remember them,in two weeks time its 60 years since I started work,Still have all my English made tools in their Moore and Wright cabinet,The Pawsond head had a cover which was either pressed or spun aluminium alloy similar but smaller than the magneto covers on Villiers engines.
|Thread: Boring bar size|
On a small lathe be careful using shanked down large drills,they can put a lot of strain on the tailstock barrel,remember the barrel is only restrained by a relatively small key and keyway,and a worn or damaged tailstock can cause problems when turning between centres.Drills can be held in the toolpost although care is required in getting the drill central ,or make a toolpost block or a cross slide block which can hold a large drill chuck. I have made a cross slide attachment which holds a sleeve parallel on the od with a taper id which can hold up to 4mt on a 6 1/2 inch Colchester plus the availabilty of power feed if required, The hardened sleeves are available from tool companies in a variety of sizes.
|Thread: Getting a Tormach off its pallet and base|
I noticed in one photo a Pullift (R Williams)being used to lift a load,I once borrowed a pullift to lift a stationary engine,never again,its the only piece of lifting equipment I have used that "let go" with the load lucky the Lister diesel was robust and it only dropped a couple of inches,they are ok for pulling horizontally, but I have never used one for a direct lift again,since then some 40 odd years ago I have aquired a lot more equipment,the chain hoist on a beam is the most reliable,Engine cranes can be useful but legs always seem to get in the way of the load,though I have found that the lifting beam on a 1 tonne crane can be extended by around a couple feet with 4mm wall square steel tube,on lighter loads up to 75 kilos without the crane tipping up,ok for loading up the large 22 inch faceplate onto the lathe,as the legs won't go under the lathe just be careful.
|Thread: Machine cleaning|
Carburretor cleaner supplied in spray cans (halfords)will remove those brown stains left by soluble oil and old lubricating oil from the paintwork,Though I would not clean machined surfaces with any solvent as it removes lubricating oil,When I started in the 1950s every machine in our small works was thoroughly cleaned usually on Fridays,all swarf had to be removed ,slideways thoroughly cleaned and lubricated with oil can and rag,and the whole machine wiped down with oily rags.No slideway covers in those days,You would be in real trouble if you used compressed air a real no no.
|Thread: Suspected stuck piston rings|
Could your problems be due to the bio additives in the fuel, the additives are causing lots of problems particularly if the percentage exceeds 5 % the fuel goes "off" after a relatively short time, and the bio coming from natural sources causes bacterial growths ,a friend has a David Brown diesel tractor and the mesh filter in the line from the lift pump to the injection pup gets blocked with a black messy gunge. I would for a start drain the WHOLE system a, and fill with new fresh diesel. For an engine with 100 hours it should not be worn, as the exhaust seat was corroded possibly due to the valve being left open in a marine environment and may have corroded the rings. I would have thought that a loss of 20 % compression would not cause too many problems, my very old Lister LT 1 diesel was well worn as it was in my cement mixer but it would start with one winding the handle and two others rotating the drum. Personally I would strip the engine why potentially ruin a near new engine, it may be difficult but a 400 cc engine is not that big.
|Thread: Myford Super 7|
Athough I have owned a super seven for around 45 years nowadays I would go for a Boxford 5 inch centre height not 4 1/2 ins , they are cheaper currently than a myford though when I bought my super seven a Boxford just not affordable,though I would have preferred one as I had used a Boxford a lot during my apprenticeship and found they were very good lathes, a Myford is a very good lathe though limited by the ridiculous small bore of the headstock spindle,the Boxford has a larger spindle bore,another downside with a used Myford is a lot have been abused by ham fisted and really amateur operators. Both are good for model making ,if you intend motor cycle restoration or similar work the later Colchester Bantams are more suitable.
|Thread: HMS Queen Elizabeth: Leak found on new aircraft carrier|
Perhaps we shouldn't have built such a large vessel,our history has lots of instance where biggest is not best,Great Brittain, Titanic,hms Hood, mary rose etc.We all know that the skills required to design build ,maintain such large ships has been lost in this country,we could not even build a foot bridge over the thames without wobbling. and when at sea how will the vessel survive without a protective fleet of smaller warships,the argies did ok with exocets strung onto their planes,it only takes a couple of torpedoes to put a carrier out of action,the US built two super carriers prewarLexington went down in the coral sea because they thought the Japs were inferior. And is the loss of skills and experience that has caused the seals to leak,poor quality assembly or something more serious like shaft misalignment due to flexibility in the hull or the hull moving when launched i.e. from suspended ashore to afloat in the water, ?
|Thread: Acorn rake|
mowing acorns makes a mess,a Honda ride on with collection bags will not pick them up, on a good lawn an electric leaf blower ,used in the suck mode works quite well,if you own the tree a chainsaw cures the problem for ever,plus a free supply of firewood and a happy neighbour who was so pleased as it shaded so much of her property, another neighbours tree over hanging our paddock is a right pain especially if you have horses,as the grass is longer and difficult to rake up the acorns,mowing or sucking on long grass does not work.
|Thread: Myford Oiling - Wanner 300-1|
My Myford oil gun finally gave up after 43 three years use,it was also used on my Elliot turret mill for 25 years so I have no complaints,acquired an ancient larger Tecalamit grease gun cleaned it out ,made an oil type nozzle which incorporates an O ring,works ok ,
|Thread: What Material for 5C collet Rack|
Use some aluminium channel,the ali does not damage the collets and or contain any nasties which could corrode the collets, Bore the holes in the wide part of the channel,and sit it on the two shorter legs,have stored double angle collets for years without any damage or corrosion.
|Thread: advice on choosing a milling machine|
I have downsized some of my workshop prior ot a house move,I had an Adcock and Shipley 2e Horizontal with vertical attachment and an Elliot Milmore turret mill with 50 inch table,both close to two tons, a neighbour gave me his Elliot Omnimill weight around 12cwt with and it came with a slotting attachment, both spindles are 3 m/taper.one big advantage of this machine is the vertical head on the the top mounted swivelling arm can be swung out of the way when using the horizontal spindle, so vertical to horizontal changes can be made quickly with no lifting of detachable heads,great when you are my age,the quill is substantial. unfortunately the whole vertical head is not capable of making reasonable cuts its just not rigid enough,overall the capacity,i.e. space under the spindle,travel of table,xyz is good for a smaller machine. I have vastly improved the rigitity of the head,by making a support out of 1 inch thick steel plate,the depth stop clamp is removed,the steel support has a hole in it to take the quill and split across the diameter of the bore to make a clamp. the plate bolts to the end of the round overarm which supports the horizontal arbour, so the head with the overarm can be slid along the y axis and clamped up, there is provision for an extra tie strap to connect clamp plate to overarm when the head is tilted. if the quill feed is required then the two bolts on the clamp are slackened .So I now have a very useful versatile uk built milling machine,I have since managed to buy at some cost the two way swivelling head ,which bolts to the vertical column and driven via the horizontal spindle. The only problem so far after a year of ownership is the bottom speed on both spindles is too high either for tough materials or large diameter saws, now scheming out ways to reduce the speeds cheaply by mechanical means not electronic.There is a photo of the clamp arrangement in my photo album.Regarding the small adcock and shipley 1ES a friend has one and uses it for restoration of a full size t/engines,the 1ES has substantial 40 int spindles and more room under the vertical spindle,only disadvantage is the vertical head is quite heavy,I had a tom senior many years ago,and did not keep it for long,Vertical spindle too light with 2MT spindle and very little space under the the spindle, a Harrison is far better,the Tom senior table and knee slides are rigid and operate freely, basically a good machine in horizontal mode ,but very poor in vertical mode, The expensive quill feed head,is nicely made but should have been made larger with an R8 or 3 mt spindle.
|Thread: Phosphor bronze v oilite|
Drawn phosphor bronze can be evil stuff to machine,to stop drills binding grind the drill point slightly off centre,its a bit crude but it works, obviously drill the hole with a undersize 'off centre' drill,then finish with a ordinary drill or reamer.
|Thread: Corrosive liquids. ...................................|
The government should outsource the prison service and give Russia,China and North Korea the opportunity to quote,and offer a bonus for any that did not come back,that might make the criminal element think
|Thread: Geo Taylor &Sons milling machine table feed.|
Sorry cannot help but I have worked on one,the company where I served my apprenticeship had one of these Taylor mills,regularly used for instrument making so mainly light milling work,anyone who worked on this machine soon found out it was better to wind the handle and forget the power feed,not a very good arrangement.The other problem with the Taylor was their collets for holding the end mills,very difficult to do up tight,on tougher work the cutter would slip up or down in the collet,not a loved machine but the only alternative was a vertical mill with 4 ft table, thats how it was in the 1950s ,just get on with it.On a small machine power feed is not essential,and one got used to winding handles and using fixed stops,many of the jobs lasted a couple of days.
|Thread: Drill bit sets|
Bought a set of Presto drills 6 to 10 mm in .1 steps a couple of years ago,they have proved to be ok,they only get occasional use,for rougher work I have an old set of mixed drills mainly dormer 40 years old 1mm to 13 in .5 steps,Before I bought the Presto drills I bought a 1 to 6 mm set in .1 steps on special price offer from Tracy tools several years ago,they were dead sharp and drill accurate holes,some time later i bought the larger set from them 6 to 10 .1 steps again at low price at ME exhibition, the steel was ok it was just the sharpening ,varying angles and points off centre,could not be bothered to send them back,too much hassle, they get used for brass with backed off rake and correctly sharpened,they heard all about it at the next exhibition . The problem with judging quality is the limited use they get in model engineers hands , The real test comes when they work all day every day just with regular sharpening, the last time i was involved in real engineering some thirty years ago,Titex and Guhring drills were used on the cmc machines , since then I worked by myself but mainly on one offs so have not had problems with drills that were new or some that are 50 years old. I think some of the problems nowadays are due to misuse,particularly wrong speeds and cutting fluid. Also never use good drill bits in hand held portable drills,keep some old ones for this use.
|Thread: Stuart Victoria cylinder|
Agree thicker clamp required,possibly wider so that it grips on the drain cock bosses,this area of the casting is stiffer and not so likely to distort the casting ,if the casting distorts under too much pressure then the machined cylinder bore may end up oval,after roughing the bore check that the casting has not moved due to the intermittent cutting of the boring tool on the rough cast surface.
|Thread: Pre-load of taper-rollers|
pre load must vary with the application,surely when the car is in use the alaluminium axle housing will warm up and expand and I would assume expansion would increase preload,so it may be advisable not to have too much or if any preload when cold, The MOT examiner picked up slack front wheel taper bearings on a Morris Ital I then showed him the handbook and when cold they were really slack,i thought this deliberate slackness was probably to allow for hub expansion with heat from the disc brakes, Is there a lea francis owners club ,they may have the info,If i did not have the preload information ,I would set up with minimum or no preload ,rather than too tight and further tightening due to expansion could wreck the bearings.And its no good looking at other cars as the vast majority had ferrous housings with less expansion.
|Thread: How do I cut 6" dia bar?|
A bog standard Manchester Rapidor power hacksaw will cut 6 inch dia easily,use a coarse blade, suggest find someone in your area with such a saw,offer them a good drink and a contribution towards the blade cost,best to use soluble oil coolant.I have had one for 25 years and it has cut loads of material, blades are getting expensive,I usually buy mine at auto jumbles, The saw takes a standard 14 inch blade,I often buy 17 inch blades as they are cheaper as nobody wants them, cut them to length and drill a new hole with one of those tipped drills that will go through hardened material.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today (2017)|
Like Martin Perman I am sorting out items to take to the Cotswold oil engine clubs sale, for anyone in the area its not only vintage itms for sale ,usually lots of tools and materials,last time I came away with some large 26 tpi taps and dies less than a pound each,but get there early.look up details on the cotswold clubs web site.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread (2017)|
The angled split bearing theory was probably the idea of some early inventor rather than engineer as later on in the 20th century that it became common practice for horizontally split bearings, the production engineers won,its a lot cheaper and easier to plane or mill and bore the split ,parallel to the base plus drill and tap the bearing cap holes vertically ,also it is easier to assemble .From my experience it is far easier to fit the crank with flywheel attached as it drops into the bottom bearing without the tendency to roll out the bearing,and also easier to align the skew gears on an oil engine.
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