Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lister advice|
Glad to be of some help,I started with a Lister D back in 1974 and have restored a fair number of engines,great hobby and if you buy the right enginesy you dont loose money but it does cost a lot to transport and exhibit them , especially when you fancy the larger engines.
The corroded studs usually twist and break, if they do break saw them off so about 1/4 of an inch is left, obtain some steel about 3/4 to one inch thick , drill a hole in the plate to the the tapping size of the stud, then open this hole to the diameter of the stud for 1/4 of inch,then place the plate over the remains of the stud,this effectively becomes a drill jig,for the tapping drill. Securely clamp the plate in position ,and then drill a hole(TAPPING SIZE) down the centre of the stud , then flush off the remains of the stud, then take the correct thread size tap and CAREFULY start the tap in the hole this action can take the remains of the thread of the stud out of the cylinder head.Sometimes the first couple of turns of the old thread can be picked out of the hole with something pointed and sharp such as a scriber and the rest can removed by using the tap.If you think this is a lot of trouble and you try just centre popping the stud and try to drill the stud ,the drill will wander off course as the cast iron cyl head is softer than the stud.
|Thread: Lifting A Tom Senior Light Vertical|
I would agree with you and not lift on the small brackets,I have seen broken bearing caps on stationary engines when an engine has been lifted by strops on the crankshaft,and the base of the engine hanging on the caps was too heavy,A long time ago before I had decent lifting gear,I brought home a Senior M1 by dismantling,the base and column went in a small trailer and the rest went into a mk1 escort.
|Thread: Info required Stuart Turner 600 i/c gas/petrol engine|
Thanks Jason, I will try an O ring,
I am restoring a Stuart 600 engine,does any one have set of dwgs,? Does the dwg state what type of sealing ring or material is used to seal the cylinder liner into the engine bed ,full size engines eg Ruston Hornsby and other makes usually used a rubber o ring.My stuart liner has a groove in the liner and the bottom of the groove slopes a 10/15 degrees towards the head end of the liner ,it may be that soft packing was used and the slope on the bottom of the groove compresses the packing as the liner is pushed into the aperture in the bed,or is the angled groove not to dwg and just the idea of the builder as all 600s were only supplied as castings,though some larger parts could be supplied finished at extra cost. Also does the dwg specify what threads to use ,my engine uses BSF so I am assuming that it may have been made in the 1930s, they appear to have been made as early pre ww so I would expect early ones would have Whitworth threads.I would be grateful for any info as I do not want to get it restored and running and then get water leaks around the liner.
|Thread: Anyone know about buying freehold to a house in the north|
Dont haggle just buy the leasehold asap while the offer stands,it could be a bargain in future when it comes to selling,I like many other house buyers would never buy a house with any type of lease,you never know when something nasty climbs out of the woodwork, just ask yourself why would any company buy your lease unless there was profit in it ,and in future you may be paying for that profit.And when buying the lease check the small with your solicitor.
|Thread: Telescopic bore gauges|
I have a range of telescope gauges,one is by m&w and the rest are mitutoyo,the M&W one has the best feel,I also have a set of M & W small hole gauges using two balls max capacity is half an inch, again it depends on an operators feel and regular use. one advantage with these is that they can be used well down into bore,all can be read with practice to better than a thou , in good conditions ,down to half a thou. During my apprenticeship telescope gauges were always know as "tele " gauges,and used when boring holes for ball races etc ,and you had to get skilled with them ,bosses dont like scrap.My favourite tool for bores is my swiss roche etalon vernier which is a proper vernier and needs an eyeglass to take a reading, A company present when I finished my apprenticeship. this has curved jaws when taking internal measurements, to get a measurement in a bore I set the jaws so that they are a perfect sliding fit in the bore ,lock the jaws,and then measure over the jaws with a micrometer.This allows me to measure the shaft and bore with the same measuring device to achieve more accurate readings for running and press fits. I never use the knife type digital vernier jaws on measuring precision fits.
|Thread: What are members thoughts on Gap Bed lathes ?|
Tony how can you compare a 3 1/2 centre lathe to a 6 inch lathe regarding performance, with more than twice the size of motor. You should be comparing the 290 to a 6 inch Colchester which by the way is about 5 times heavier.I have a S7 and a Colchester Master and both are very good and can cover a wide range of work,
I would go for a gap bed lathe any day,that extra capacity can be very useful ,The Myford gap is ideal for traction engine wheel rims and flywheels. a gap on any lathe allows easier mounting of angle plates on to face plates for boring. The proportions of the 7 series lathes are very good except for the spindle bore,The 254 always look a bit too tall and possibly not so rigid though I would prefer one one against a far eastern product.Though if it had been given better proportions the cost would have taken it out of the hobby /training market.Going bac to gap bed V straight bed,I was some years ago at a MOD auction and was looking at some Colchesters mainly students ,one was in excellent condition and had an extra long straight bed,ie no gap. Two dealers came along looked at it ,one cussed and said ,'no gap' that will be a difficult sale ! and went to look at the next machine.Always remember a machine may suit you but take into account you may want to sell it sometime .
|Thread: Triangular Screws|
Taptites were typically used for cost reduction ,to save the tapping and subsequent inspection of tapped holes,best results are when used in ductile materials,used on very high volume commercial work ie aluminium pressure die castings with minimal draft on the cored holes,saves drillng and tapping. roll thread taps have similar profile with minimal swarf produced and a stronger thread form again works better on wrought than cast material.
|Thread: cutter slippage using ER series collets|
Also suggest buying the larger 4 point spaner from Arc euro. When using er40collets to hold large Whitworth taps,I admit that I do use a length of tube to get them really tight,I am well into retirement and so not as strong as I once was and if I damage a collet ,so what they are cheap and the customer pays for his Whit nuts. When working on full size thick wall copper steam pipe,the er40 collets grip the soft pipe without damage and allow threads to be cut with a die.
|Thread: Metal stock|
I mark my material with no/letter punches ,does not rub off or get dirty.
|Thread: drillling bronze|
for PB 1 grind the drill off centre so that it cuts oversize,I find that a slower speed than that recomended for bronze works ok if was drilling 2.5 mm dia on the myford I would run at around 1000 rpm instead of the Dormer recomended speed of 3000 /4000 rpm use a drop of of Rocol tapping fluid . Drawn PB really does need some cutting rake,so I do not grind off the rake angle, cast bronze ie gunmetal will grab a drill so does need a zero rake cutting edge. I have one length of cast bronze stick ,which when drilling ,the drill wanders all over the place so I drill well under size and bore,never had this trouble before,
|Thread: Help with Ward 3A|
I worked on a Ward 2A for six months during my apprenticeship,we only had an oil gun, the oil was Shell vitrea (no doubt long disappeared) i think the viscosity was 34 anyway it was about the same as Castrol xl (30 sae),same oil was shot over the slideways. Nice machine, if you were not working it on a winter monday morning with very cold soluble oil flying everywhere,In the six years I was with the company it was used most days mainly on no ferrous materials and never went wrong or needed adjustment.It was regularly cleaned as the non ferrous swarf was valuble and when there was a change of material ,thorough cleaning was essential to avoid contamination of the swarf.In those days none of our machines hydraulic oil.
|Thread: To Pin or Not To Pin|
I think in a large loco I would use square keys with keyways in shaft and crank ,made tight and driven in,plus loctite. An lternative I have used on small o/crank i/c engine with one inch shafts and crankpin was shrink fit plus 1/4 inch taper pins driven in hard and not meant to come out, no complaints from customer.
|Thread: Building a 4" traction engine|
consider the follwing,available finance,machine tools with adequate capacity,weight transport and suitable storage of finished project,your age ,you may be able to lift castings ,machine tool accessories etc now but will you be able to say in ten years time.A 41/2 inch traction engine requires a steel boiler,after all it is the monocoque chassis of a model weighing several cwt and needs to be strong .Over the last fifty years sets of castings dwgs etc have come on the market and then disapeared.If you intend to buy castings parts over a period rather than at one go try to ascertain will parts be available in the future. From what I have learnt over a long time in which I got close to finishing a Allcjhin and owning a commercial built 6 inch engine,plus restoring and showing I/C stationary engines It might pay to to order a boiler,the dwgs and the castings which are essential to the build,eg the cylinder ,flywheel,differential, diff bevel gears,and other parts which would be difficult to fabricate and buy the rest laterAn alternative way would be to pick on some parts which do not cost a fortune in materials but are more time consuming,eg the road wheels if you are fed up after building 4 wheels then you do not loose a lot of cash.On small engines I learnt that it was better to fabricate the small castings then spend hours fettling them. Plus it can be a rather grimy hobby,with oil and coal,if you run a decent car then plan to carry everything in the trailer if you go to vintage/model shows,wives do not like coal on car seats.I think thats why a lot of modellers use an old transit van.
|Thread: Disposal of workshop contents|
If you use an auctioneer,just be careful as there are a lot of light fingered people about these days,particularly on viewing days.get a couple of friends to keep an eye on things as well as yourself.Thieving also happens on the collection of goods after the sale and following days.
|Thread: Which oil and oil gun|
My 50 year old Tecalamit oil gun finally expired earlier this year so bought an oil gun from a company called Press Parts, it is suitable for oil and grease and comes with two nozzles base cost £17 plus the usual vat etc, it was mentioned on this model engineer site last year It works ok and a lot cheaper than other makes,use for my Myford S 7 and omnimill. the only nipple it will not get to is the one for lubricating the back gear shaft ,so made an adaptor.
email@example.com cat part no PP637
Wanner products are very good,but expensive,my grease gun was purchased in 1962 and still never fails to work, was lucky earlier this year,bought an identical Wanner back in the spring for £5 at an autojumble,real bargain ,took a while to get the old solid grease out ,now used for the deck of my ride on mower which requires a flexible hose with nozzle, so saves me repeatably changing the fixed and flexible hose on one gun.
|Thread: Garden shed find|
Very good machines,before you proceed too far with cleaning check that the morse taper spindle bore is in good condition ,old machines do turn up with damaged tapers and will retain drills and chucks.I once came aross an old Meddings which had the taper machined out to a parallel bore I never did fathom why , as the drill was free it was used for spares and the column was a useful length of tough steel.A machine tool fitter once told me the gears for the hi/low box are tufnol and easily damaged by operators changing speed before the spindle stops,his comment was "I have replaced an awful lot of those gears so wait till the spindle stops" .
I have made a lot of helical gears for stationary engine,timing and sideshaft,and one or two magdyno geas. What I have learnt is I now ask the customer if it is to drive a reconditioned magneto after one customer complained of gear wear,the mag was very difficult to turn the bearings were far too tight, Do not mix gears with different pressure angles ,fine teeth will really whine, eg Gardner ) 0 gas engine 14 dp ,not my gears. On course gears eg 10 and 8 dp where the engine has been well corroded in the past and the mag gear is missing ,pressure angle gears can be mixed as they run so slow. and hit and miss igniton will drown any noise.Do NOT cut the teeth at an angle they must be spiral cut, I would not use any soft material eg ali and tufnol ,try to use similar steel and the hardness of the original ,particularly when dealing with high perfomance Velo engine, they knew what the were doing. using a very close module gear does work sometimes as the difference is so small and all form gear cutters are a compromise.When copy ing spiral gears on a universal mill ,set up the spiral lead attach the old gear or a borrowed genuine gear, set a small dial gauge to a tooth and wind the table handle to ensurethat your gears are set up correctly spirals set to the various tables in Machineries handbook,sometimes a bit of adjustment of the gear ratios is worth trying to get the spiral the same or very close to the original.
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