Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What is it with the fit of old slotted screws?!|
Apprenticeship as an instrument maker,we were expected to buy via our companies tool club all our tools,all the screws we used were even number BA and and our Screwdrivers with plastic handles were made by STEAD ,and they made a set of 5 screwdrivers to suit 0 to 8 BA screws. Sixty years later I still have them,very good crewdrivers. A cheap way of getting screwdrivers which can be butchered is go round a boot sale or auto jumble and look in the odds and end boxes, you can find old english made screwdrivers,they may be bent a bit or the blade chipped but can be restored,ignore the foreighn ones most are rubbish, Younger readers may wonder what a tool club was ,on pay day you could pay into a tool club run by the company,when the funds accumulated you could place an order for a tool and the company would get them for you at a discount, eg Gordon spanners were around 50% ff list price. Some firms just aranged at discount scheme where you just went along and bought them direct at discount,The longest save of 5 bob a week was for my Moore and Wright toolmakers cabinet which was 146 shillings, its still written on the back of the cabinet in pencil. Its sad to think that the firms who made these fine tools have disappeared or the name has been bought up but not really the same company. Best bit of luck I had was after 9 years of work and two jobs, I got a job with a multi national co,on joining I was informed that I would not need to bring my tools as all tools ,cabinets ,overalls etc were supplied ,plus the toolroom was absolutely brand new. So I had all my tools at home ,to allow me to start serious model making,wages were good and I bought a new Ml7 and new trials bike within a year and have never looked back.
|Thread: What are you doing to stay safe|
I live out in rural Hampshire,nearest neighbour is 250 feet away,so no local contact problem,biggest risk is shopping once a week at Sainsburys,though today they were a bit more sensible,NHS people went in first,wrinklies including me half an hour later,though we had to queue in the car park spaced 6 ft 6 inches appart and it was freezing cold,did not see any evidence of cleaning trolley handles or anything else.it was busy but not packed out like last week.doctors and local bakery were taking adequate precautions,I can get going out down to two days a week.my wife had replacement knee op on 9th mar ,she got to physio last Tues and that was the hospitals last day of physio,they will contact her for at least the next three weeks by phone,to check on her progress,so at least she does not have to go out for some time.Its a case of keeping ones head down,and hoping. No boredom ,helping my wife,gardening ,well mowing a lot of grass and other domestic jobs keep me busy,cant get on with any engine restoration work,
|Thread: Face turning Bronze castings - strange surface finish|
Why waste your cash on carbide inserts,HSS correctly ground as I said earlier can give very good finishes and at a very low cost ,its choosing the right tool for the right job, and most hobby work only needs HSS though it does require a degree of skill .
|Thread: Keeping busy|
Live out in the sticks,started mowing the lawns,grass growing like mad,kept busy as my wife is recovering from a knee replacement,took her for physio yeaterday,from today physio closed for at least three weeks, dreading weelkly shop on friday, last week i queued for 40 mins to get to the till.Watched all those idiots on the tele totally ignoring the curfew,thick as two short planks. got plenty to do in workshop with restoring stationary engines,therestored Stuart 600 needs mounting on a trolley,then theres a Ruston Hornsby and a Robinson hot air engine to restore. Rally season hit hard no shows until at least July,all my regular shows are cancelled,Got some weed killing to do as they are starting to grow,lot easier to grow weeds than veg, Then theres further improvement to my security as towrags thieved 140 gallons of heating oil from my tank. I am fully occupied I do know how the majority keep moaning that they are bored,all they seem to know is hitting a keyboard.
took my wife 20 miles to hospital for physio following a knee replacement,we were lucky phyisio dept closing from tomorrow for at least 3 weeks , Driving was just like it was 40/50 years ago ,beautiful sunny spring day ,and minimum traffic.
|Thread: Record no 1 vice jaws seized - removal?|
Plus gas is a very penetrating oil,the cheapest is diesel fuel,it always seems to find its way out of steel fuel cans via the joints. I use an impact driver for tight screws,though the short vice driver sounds a good idea must work in a similar way to the special tool for removing the screws in automotive dynamos,I am pretty certain that the screws are Whit thread,if csk whit screws are not available try using UNC they are same pitch as whit except for 1/2 inch and 5 degree difference on the thread angle will not matter on a vice jaw screw,if the screw slot,a 1mm or 1.5 mm cutting disc in an angle grinder can be used to cut a deeper slot it will of course put a cut in the vice jaw but a narrow slot will not matter.
|Thread: A sight for sore eyes|
when doing a proper selfbuild bungalow,we had 3 ton of cement delivered, one saturday ,driver was bolshie and wanted help,i had hurt my back and was dealing with another delivery,so my wife said she would help unload,lorry driver "you cant do that,"wife "try me" one cwt bags in those days and she kept pace with the driver who afterwards said he had never seen a woman carry cement bags,And later on after the 1987 storm my wife went up on the roof to replace those big redland stonewold tiles,I have to admit that I s--t myself up a ladder.When we tiled the bungalow we carried the tiles up in a chain gang ,friends up the roof me on the middle scaffolding and wife and mother in law at the bottom.
|Thread: Colchester student 1800 carriage handwheel issues?|
Just had the top slide index ring slipping on my master ,the friction device is three balls and three compression springs,these had lost their spring due to a build up of old soluble oil and dirt,the saddle handwheel detent may just be stuck with dirt.
|Thread: Face turning Bronze castings - strange surface finish|
I would rough with carbide as the skin of the casting wil be abrasive ,then finish the last ten thou with two cuts with HSS tooling ,the rings look like the product of a tool with insufficient clearance,or the side clearance has been worn away. Brass and bronze cut far better if the tool is ground on a fine grit wheel and then stoned to give a clean cutting edge, the biggest mistake made is to stone the tool too hard and to let the stone roll in your fingers so that the cutting clearance is lost. Back lash in screws rarely affects finish as the tool is being pushed,too much is made of baclklash,belts and single phase motors causing finish defects,the problem is lack of experience in grinding tool and too high a speed wearing the tool.
|Thread: Acetal or phosphur bronze|
Leaded bronze is better than phosphor bronze and easier to macine
|Thread: £15,000 for a Bridgeport!|
just looked at a Stuart No 1 in the sale catague top estimate £500 ,set of raw castings plus material from stuarts is £600 what do you make of that.
Another thing to watch out for is VAT, on private sales at an auction vat is only due on the auctioneers commission,at auctions of a commercial nature,say for instance a factory sale,where all the machine tools and other items where vat claimed in the past,vat at 20% is due on both the bid price and the commission price,can be expensive. cash private sale can still be the best deal.Read the small print in the catalogue before bidding. a buyers premium of 25 to 30 % is pure greed by the auctioneers.
|Thread: Holding End Mill on small lathe|
nothing wrong with milling in the lathe,I did a lot of the milling on a 11/2 inch Allchin with a M7 and held the cutters in a 4 inch 3 jaw, admittedly the lathe was new (1968) ,never had a cutter move ,though I do not think it would be so succesful with an old chuck with wonky jaws. I cannot see the point of the suggestion to use a parallel shank ER collet chuck held in a three jaw,a parallel shank cutter is the same as a parellel chuck with the additional problem of it placing the cutter a lot further from the lathe spindle bearing, the use of a 1 mt collet would give the advantage of the cutter being very close to the end of the lathe spindle. As others have mentioned never use a Jacobs chuck to hold a milling cutter a mill with a sideways load, though its ok to hold a milling cutter in a jacobs chuck in the tailstock to make counterbores,ie an end on load. For milling in the lathe where a surface needs a flat face its cheaper to use a fly cutter, with HSS toolbit , easy to sharpen,and can be mounted in a block bolted to a face plate.
|Thread: Vaccum for a milling machine.|
Vac cleaners are ok,for small metal chips but do not work with the longer curly stuff.,can be pain to get the curly stuff out of the flexible tube Do not use a vacuum to suck hot steel direct off the cutter ,especially using carbide tooling without lubricant,it will soon cause a fire in the cleaner.I generally clean up cold swarf with a old steel dustpan and brush,then use a cheap paint brush to clean the nooks and crannies,then a Tslot cleaner cut from sheet steel, plus a narrow vac hose to clear out the bottom of the T slots.
|Thread: Myford ML10 Lathe Chuck|
I have a 16mm keyless chuck,3mt used on a Colchester easy and quick to use ,snags are it does not grip smaller than 3 mm drills and when used for holding taps its ok for tapping go into reverse to get the tap out the hole and the chuck looses its grip, All my other chucks are genuine Jacobs ,and they are reliable, the 0 to 1/2 inch Jacobs on my Fobco and S7 are just over 50 years old and still in excellent order.Nowadays I use ER collets for tapping,
|Thread: I Hate Brass!|
Spent my training on centre lathe turning brass for days on end,I like machining it,chips can be deflected by inserting a bent piece of shim under the front toolholder screw. On a capstan lathe all our brass turning was carried out with full flow soluble oil,this lubricated and cooled the tooling plus stopped the swarf flying.
|Thread: Bending and shear force confusion....|
I made 100 plus handles and screws for a similar arrangement ie assembly presses and made improvements over time. first change was to make the handle from stainless steel ,initially I used en 8 but this corroded due sweat from the operators hands plus any fruit juice, the handle length needs to take into account the physical strength of the operator,is it a repeat operation or just occasional.Two handles into blind holes will eventually work loose,as the hole depth is shown as approximately shaft diameter. Make the boss longer and use a single handle in a through hole,the boss can ideally be a light press fit onto the threaded spindle with a cross pin,the pin needs to be a reasonable diameter ie about 1/4 inch and tight fit ,use silver steel, or if you have the tooling a taper pin is better,never never use roll pins,they come loose. the long top handle should be drive fit in the boss ie with a soft hammer. Now the one thing that surprised me was that I also secured the handle with a flat miled on the shaft in the centre and then locked with an hex skt grub screw, and the handles never came loose,the flat did give the grub screw a good seat and the screws had the ring type end and not a point which always seem to come loose. If used a lot those plastic handles on the end of the handle will work loose and be forever be coming off ,I have a Meddings drill with this type of handle end,and when I bought it s/hand three of the handle plastic ends were missing and another one loose,so I made turned aluminium handles secured with grub screws. The real way to pee off an operator is to have handles & knobs that are forever coming loose and falling off and have handles that make your hands sore ,dont knurl handles, years ago I found that assembly operators will cover any knurling with masking tape.
|Thread: Blacking hot steel in oil|
I worked many years ago for a company making scientific instruments,the BA steel screws were polished and then sent for nickel plating, if for any reason the supply of screws for a batch of work run out ,there was quite a long lead time to get nickel plating done ,so the use of oil blacked screws was acceptable ,the usual practice was to polish and oil black the screws ,usually about a 10 to 20 items .the method was to place the screws in a tin lid about 2 inch dia,squirt a small amount of oil to just about cover the screws ,place tin lid on a stand over a Bunsen burner,heat them up until the oil caught fire and let the oil burn itself out. screws sizes were usually ,4 ,6,and 8 BA and blended in quite well with the black microscope bodies .
|Thread: lathe spindle runout|
I was once involved in hard drive manufacture,the tolerances were out of this world,the spindle bearings were ball type and had relatively large internal clearance,the two bearings were axially spring loaded,I was mainly involved in procuring parts for production and only heard that there had been problems with random runouts in the early days,The problem with production quantities was the amount of grease in each bearing,which was critical to the life of the bearing. Regarding bearings on machine tools,horizontal mills tended to use taper roller on heavily loaded horizontal bearings and on the heavy vertical heads,whereas the higher speed light vertical mills tend to use ball bearings.I was involved with a very large American vertical CNC mill boring ali castings for hard drives,after some problems it was decided to replace the spindle bearings,these were a pair of opposed precision ball races ( at precision price) about 120 mm dia ,and being nosey I asked why balls not taper roller and the factory man said the ball bearings were in their experience,better than taper rollers.and there was no comment on why the bearings had only lasted 3 months of round the clock running.
Alan I think that you mean ,"machine reamers," these have minimum lead and produce parallel holes nearly down to the bottom of blind holes, the flutes are usually spiral which helps produce truly round holes. The company where I worked used Drill Services at Horley Surrey over 30 years ago. Their products were very good and as Andrew ueses them now they must still be good,their products were never cheap but were very good, I have a lot of machine reamers some purchased others "won" they are far more useful than hand reamers and if treated with care,run at half drilling speed and properly luricated they will last for years.
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