Here is a list of all the postings Nigel McBurney 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Bowman 'O' Gauge Model Steam locomotive|
When I was a little lad back in wartime my father aquired a Bowman 4-4-0 tender loco,with Hornby tinplate track and Hornby trucks. It went like stink around track laid on the front room floor so my father removed a couple of the burners to make it a bit more docile,plus some lead weights in some of the trucks to give it a load, when I was about 12 father bought an old o gauge 3 rail electric loco so the Bowman was put to one side. My elderly neighbour at the time had pre war run a thrashing business and had retained his engines plus he also had a fairground roundabout centre engine,I really liked that engine .So the Bowman engine ,was converted into an overtype engine,ie the bowman boiler with the cylinders and loco wheels on top ,held together with Meccano fire box.With two cylinders it made quite a good stationary engine with plenty of power to drive Meccano models, The Meccano has survived but I just cannot remember what happened to the dismantled Bowman,
|Thread: microscope graticule cleaning - recommendations required|
When I was trained a a scietific instrument maker,the lens cloths we used were old cotton hankerchiefs which had been washed many times, and breathing on the lens,of course we were fitting new lenses some with graticules,which I believe were made by a photographic process,I was once given the job of renovating an instrument with a graticule made by the very old method of using a spiders web secured by(if i remember correctly) sealing wax.the only one that I ever saw,replacement was a modern graticule.
|Thread: Boring bar size ?|
For boring a carb out a couple of mm,I woud make a boring bar from 19 (3/4 inch) mm dia silver steel and use a high speed steel tool bit with a lot of rake ,the cost is minimal and will last years,most of my home made bars have lasted 50 years. Bars to skim out aluminium die castings do not need to be that rigid,better to have a smaller bar so that you can see how the tool is cutting ,I do have a number of modern insert type bars I would not use one on a carb job.If you get serious about going into classic motor cycle resoration machining services,you will need a lot larger lathe with a large bore through the spindle, and get some product liability insurance or avoid making things such a wheel spindles or fork repairs,
|Thread: Myford ml7 about to buy|
I bought my Myford from new and it has lasted well over 40 years,but some Myfords are horribly used and well worn,plus they have such a small hole through the spindle. Hoppers advice is good ,accessories are expensive,always buy a well equipped lathe,ie chucks ,gears ,faceplate,then if you still find you have bought a dog,at least the accessorie have value and easily be sold on. I would go for a Boxford,they will take years of use,a Viceroy is near identical to a Boxford and usually cheaper plus 3/4 inch spindle bore and a 3MT tailstock A lot were only used in education establishments, you might ask why did I go for Myford years ago, well in the 1960s/70s Boxfords were far more expensive and English industry was in full swing and there were vey few good second hand lathes available, even on a new Myford I was quoted a years delivery by a local agent,after searching I did find one in stock at a London agent. A 5 inch centre height Boxford is even better as it has the same centre height all along the bed where as the Myford has only 10 inch swing over the gap.
|Thread: The Repair Shop is getting to me...|
When watching various auction,antique,vintage and restoration,various experts give their opinions,sounds ok until an item /subject comes comes up which i have some some knowledge then I know this expert is clueless so I wonder is he/she any good on the subjects which I know little or nothing about.Then you get the age estimations, just count up the numer of times that objects are supposedly late victorian 1890,I once went to one programme expert who also runs an auction house,went to one of his auctions,very rude when asked a sensible question and the auction rooms were a sh-t hole.Drew Pritchard is watchable as he goes to some interesting places,and makes a living seling a lot of rubbish to idiots,who are about,my local barbers has the rough bench in front of the chairs held up by three short rusty Acro props ,bet the barber got conned for a lot of money for the industrial effect.Though you cannot make money with two people driving a transit hundreds of mile to buy 3 items with a low profit margin, though i have learnt one useful thing,the chap who repairs the lamps uses a tool like an end on pair of grips to remove bulb hold holder locking rings up inside lamp shades,I thought I have one of those in one of my drawers,given to me years ago by a friend who did not know what it was,tried it on a bulb holder and makes removing those rings which always jam up very easy.
|Thread: Vertex Dividing-Head - basic help please|
I dont see how making a two row index plate is easier than setting the differential indexing gear train I assume cnc was used to space out the holes in a new plate,but there is still the steel to locate,turn to size and drill and c/bore the screw holes. I last used differential indexing for a customer job a couple of years ago that was a 63 t gear .
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
After my last Greeves I bought a new 250 Trials Cheetah ,a locally built bke from Hampshire,a joint venture by Bob Golner and Mick Whitlock, Mick was an ace welder and frame builder,I did not get on with it,I think it suited a taller rider,though it was very good over rock steps,which are a bit scarce in the south, Cheetah among many other builders went under whenNorton Villiers decided to stop suppling engines to the trade and made their own trials bike,My last bike of the sixties was a 1968 five speed 250 Bultaco,nice light bike it would go up long steep hills far better than any of my previous bikes and there were a lot of them in my area, though it was not as reliable as my previous Villiers powered bikes, one instance was Bultaco fitted a sprung rear chain tensioner instead of a fixed chain guide,result was the chain kept coming off,and damaged g/box gear teeth,it took ages to get new free under guarantee gears but I missed a lot of events. I fitted a home made fixed chain guide.Eleven years of trials riding were happy days.
|Thread: Cannot let this pass without comment|
Our local woodman has a log splitter with a big spiral "Woodscrew" the splitter is tractor mounted so there is a lot of hp behind the screw, Due to the tractor PTO standard direction the Screw and the mounting thread is left handed,and these screws really get tight on their mounting screw so I get the job of fitting a new screw,in excchange for firewood. As the screws cost around £90 I was asked if I could make new screws ,I tried to cut the thread on my universal mill but could not get a fine enough lead with standard gearing, I really needed a short lead attachment or make another reduction pair of gears, and it was not commercially viable due to cost and time invoved,so I still get the occassional request to get a stuck one removed, I saw on you tube a car wth the rear axle jacked up and a Log splitting screw attached to the axle flange and the operator was working away on his hands and knees splitting his firewood.
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
I bought a new Greeves 197 20TA trials bike dec 1958,cost £172 It came without lights, these were an extra which I could not afford at £7 & ten shilings,I still have the original sales leaflet. For lights I bolted to my handle bars a 6v car type sealed beam headlight unit well taped up to keep the water out ,I was 17 at the time I was on £4 10shillings apprentice wages at the time plus 12 shillings for two hours work on Sundays selling /delivering sunday newspapers,that was good money .My wages were over twice what most apprentices earned in my class at technical colledge. Later on I bought a new trials 1964 Greeves 24TES mark 2 this cost £252 by this time I was running a Morris 1000 pick up to carry the bike to trials.
|Thread: Christmas Cracker Jokes .. and similar|
How do you get all the workers in the office into a mini, put the manager in the front seat,the rest will creep up his backside.
Eye test with optician, can read all the letters on the wall chart ? customer yes I can see all the letters but cannot pronounce those funny words.
|Thread: Mill Tramming Complications - Debugging Help Required|
From the photo of the tramming set up holding the dial gauge, I would be very careful about quoting very small dimensions read by the gauge, the rods holding the gauge need to be much more substantial,to stop deflection affecting the readings.the rod in the mill spindle should be much shorter and larger in diameter to make the set up stiffer, the rod holding the dial gauge should be around 15 mm diameter min.My old boss have gone bananas at the set up.
|Thread: New 3 Jaw Chuck|
If a tos or bison chuck is too expensive,why not look around for a good used Burnerd,or European make perhaps old stock or shop soiled stock, early this year I needed a new or good 10 inch 4 jaw for my Colchester, found a Bison 4 jaw covered in dirty grease and in wooden crate took a chance and bought it ,cleaned off it had never been used and was a third of new price. But do not buy unseen.
|Thread: Thread cutting problem|
The problem could be poor manufacture of the die,I have had a tap from a well known supplier which jammed solid in the hole,it had no clearance ,or possibly negative clearance,replaced without question,and the replacement worked perfectly,i also have a set of set of ME taps and dies,one of the dies just will not cut,others in the set are ok,this was one of those exhibition offers from many years ago again poor manufacture no doubt from the far east,again a well known uk vendor. Again I bought a set of drills at an exhibition, a previous similar .set from the same vendor had been very good. this second larger set was very poor,some drills ground off centre,others with negative clearance. I had lost the receipt and could not be bothered to send them back ,so used them for making counterbores and a lot were resharpened and ground backed off for brass, next year I tackled the chap on the exhibitors stall,he admitted that the had received a poor batch and asked if i had brought them along,and he would replaced them,could not fault that,I just told him that I had used them for other purposes, I did buy a same size set from another source of a known make ,only snag they were 5 times the cost.
|Thread: 1/16" Taper Pin Reamers|
Where I was trained it was practice to drive small taper reamers by hand with a tap wrench,and used a similar tallow based lubricant similar to Trefolex, step drilling does help on all sizes of taper reamers,After apprenticeship days I did not use taper reamers until the 1970s when I started restoring stationary engines,I now have a collection of reamers,a mixture of straight and spiral flutes,I tend to use spiral flute type in the drilling machine as it clears the swarf easier,care has to be taken when reaming a hole through a cast iron boss fitted to a steel shaft,the mix of swarf tends to jam the reamer,another good lubricant is liquid Rocol.
|Thread: Quality small metric spanners|
Barrie Where did get the info that IBM made their mainframe screws,all the mainframes that I was involved with were purchased from screw suppliiers ,I know I was there from 1967, Getting back to spanners I have owned a set of metric combination spanners,which have the silent ratchets,came in a box as a gift with no manufacturers marks.They have proved very usefull. Most of my BA spanners are 1950s King Dick ex WD I also have a set of BA ring spanners by Gordon tools circa 1960,purchased via works apprentice tool club 50% discount, so most of spanners purchased at that time,were Gordon, boss did not mind if the tools he got for us apprentices were used at home for our motor cycles,still got all of them ,the Gordon tools stood up well to week end use,they were as good as the most poular brand at the time ie KIng Dick,later when I got a Spanish Bultaco I bought Elora ring ,O/E and sockets and have lasted well , The first far east spanners and tools that came inti this country were rubbish ,nowadays ,even the cheap spanners and sockets bought from stalls on autojumble will stand to amateur use,and are relatively cheap so it does not matter if a tool needs to be modified (butchered).
|Thread: Electric vehicles|
Ever since earl engineers tried steam carriages on the road,the powers that be in this country have been against the population being mobile,the rich had their horses but wanted to keep the rest of us static so that they were in command,now they are at it again forcing us to run around in milk floats,after these comments the serious side of it is how will cars be convenienly charged,take the thousands of coronation street style houses, every house would need a point on the edge of the road,cannot lay cables across the pavement from house to car,how long will it be before thieves find it profitable to nick the charging cables or thieve cars just to get the batteries. regarding efficiency cars have been around for around 130 years and its taken all that time to arrive at cars which have good fuel consumption and reliability,how long will it really be before the electric car can deliver a similar overall performance and cost.
|Thread: Wheels or frame for power hacksaw|
Ajax you mention that you have a pallet truck to move your rapidor ,why cant you use it to move the bigger saw. One way a friend got over the problem of getting enough space to saw up long work was to place the saw out in the garden,abd covered it with a shed like a dog kennel,it had four wheels and could be just wheeled away from the saw.
|Thread: Parting off with a 5/6" toolpost|
Why not just grind off some material from the top face of the 8mm tool,no tool will cut correctly if set above centre,a tool below centre will cut as front clearance is increased and top rake is reduced.A blade type tool saves a lot of time as it only needs grinding on the front face,though a hand ground parting tool from hss toolbit was very common years ago,it does have the advantage of side clearance on both sides of the tool which can help with difficult work.
|Thread: Thread identification 5/16 - 38.5 TPI ??|
Usual practice on uk instrument optical work was to use even number BA ,26 and 40 tpi whit form threads. The objective lens thread was/is .8 ins dia by 36 tpi whit form. Nowadays metricated conversion in decimal metric. The use of BA over many industries was common though even number BA become the prefered sizes and no 0 BA was generally replaced by 1/4 BSF, there with some peculiarities A lot of electrical work used odd number BA , I worked for a subsidary of Imperial Typerighters in the mid sixties,Imperial mainly used odd number BA and the subsidary where I worked which Imperial bought out used even no BA, lots of hassle from Imperial trying to get us to change to odd number,as they made all screws inhouse with well over a hundred lathes in the auto shop.
|Thread: Modify ML7 gearbox to do longer lead lengths|
Putting the job out must be better than than risking the cost of a wrecked gear train or gear/box,There was a similar problem with spiral milling where very short leads cause great strain of the gearing ,Browne and Sharpe sold a short lead attachment for their universal milling machines,similar to driving the lathe leadscrew by hand,or to get a steadier drive,make a motorised drive .
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