Here is a list of all the postings Mike Crossfield has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Engraving Nameplates|
Pantograph Services are the go-to company for everything engraving related. Wide range of equipment and materials, including the laminates you are interested in.
|Thread: Graham Meek’s Super 7 Tailstock Dial|
Just to draw a line under this, Gray has very kindly checked the MEW drawings against his originals and confirmed that, apart from the two errors noted in MEW 280, they are correct.
I have sent some drawings to your gmail address.
The gears I cut ran very smoothly together, but had what seemed to me to be excessive clearance when set up at the specified spacing. Turning one over made no difference. I set them up in my clock depthing tool so that I could play around with the gear spacing and I found that the teeth bottomed out before the play reduced to zero.
Photo 6 in the magazine shows your test rig and your prototypes. I noticed that the hardware was laid out on the gear drawings, and in the top right hand corner of the photo I could see the dimensions for the idler gear cutter. This shows an offset of 0.62 rather than the 0.55 detailed in magazine Fig. 5. I haven’t yet made a new cutter using the 0.62 dimension, but I think it will reduce the clearance I am seeing.
I would be happy to scan the Figures from the magazine showing the cutter dimensions so that you can check them against your originals, but I don’t know if this will upset the magazine publishers? Perhaps somebody could advise?
The thread you linked to is the one I started when I pointed out two obvious drawing errors, and I am very familiar with it. However no other errors apart from those I pointed out were mentioned. I now think there is at least one more, which is why I am now querying the MEW drawings again with Gray.
Hello again Gray,
I have cut the input gear and the idler gear (imperial) using cutters made according to the dimensions in Figure 5 in MEW 279, allowing for the drawing error noted in MEW 280. However the meshing, although close, doesn’t seem to be quite right. I made the cutters very carefully using the DRO on my mill. I don’t think I made any significant error, and I suspect there may be another drawing error in Figure 5. I think I can see in photo 6 In MEW 280 another cutter dimension (0.55 versus 0.62) in your original drawing which is different from that in Figure 5. If you wouldn’t mind I’d be very grateful if you could check that all the Figure 5 cutter dimensions are as you intended.
In view of these problems with the Figure 5 cutter dimensions, it would be reassuring if you also check that cutter data in Figure 6 is as you intended. I’m sorry to bother you with this, but I don’t know how to calculate the cutter dimensions for myself.
Thanks very much for the prompt and very helpful reply.
Just what I need.
Having recently completed my last major project I have started building Graham Meek’s Super 7 tailstock dial (MEW 279/280). At the moment I am puzzling over the best machining sequence for the main body of the device (the Backplate). There are some critical dimensions and concentricities, and few clues in the articles as to how best to achieve them. I would be very pleased to hear from Gray or and/or anyone who has successfully constructed this useful accessory.
Edited By Mike Crossfield on 26/10/2020 07:43:51
Edited By Mike Crossfield on 26/10/2020 07:45:34
|Thread: Myford ML10 - Disengaging the Autofeed|
I remember my recently deceased friend having a similar problem with his ML10 some years ago. Unlike other Myford lathes, the ML10 saddle handwheel does not engage with a separate rack to move the carriage. Instead It is permanently engaged with the leadscrew. Incidentally, not a great arrangement because the gearing is too high to allow fine manual feed. In an ideal world when the leadscrew rotates the handwheel should rotate but the saddle should remain stationary. This Is a delicate balance which relies on the carriage friction being greater than that in the handwheel mechanism. If the carriage is very free to move (gibs set loosely?) and/or the handwheel is stiff, the carriage will move. My friend made some adjustments which from memory largely solved the problem. However to be completely safe he also fitted the optional leadscrew clutch. This also provided the big benefit of being able to use the optional leadscrew handwheel to move the carriage without having to disconnect the change gears.
|Thread: Making a pinion with a fly cutter|
I make all the pinions and wheels in my clocks using shop-made cutters made from hardened/tempered silver steel. I usually cut pinions from silver steel, but sometimes I use EN8. Cutting pinions this way is a slow job. I typically run the mill at around 200rpm, and take 2 or 3 passes with plenty of cutting oil. Picture of one of my cutters and examples of wheels and pinions below.
|Thread: Claude Reeves 4 Legged Gravity Escapement Regulator|
Edited By JasonB on 15/09/2020 13:14:12
Thank you Martin.
There is a substantial metal backplate fitted to the case, and the pendulum and the movement are separately attached to this. I’ll post some more photos which should make this clear. The case is anchored to the wall behind it.
I’ll see what I can do about some more photos, but whether I can work out how to add a video remains to be see.
The excellent mlhorology forum is (was) in yahoo groups. It still exists for dialogue between members, but since the end of last year it has few resources in terms of archives etc.
Just completed my version of the Claude Reeves gravity escapement regulator. My main spare time project for the last 3 years, ( plus 6 months for the oak case).
The build was based on John Wilding’s book. However I used miniature ball races throughout, which reduced friction to the extent that the clock will run on 10lb driving weight compared to 14 lb for Wilding’s version. I also used carbon fibre for the pendulum rod.
I have to thank several people on this and the mlhorology forum for their help and advice. In particular Peter Bell, who sold me his spare set of water-jet cut plates, and gave much advice, Rex Swensen for guidance on the use of miniature bearings and other topics, and Joel Shugar and David Gee, both of whom had successfully built this interesting clock and freely gave their advice.
A couple of pictures are attached.
Edited By JasonB on 14/09/2020 19:01:38
|Thread: Rotating Photos|
What puzzles me is that rotating the photos 90 degrees before uploading them didn’t make any difference. They still came out sideways.
Photos now uploaded. And in need of rotation.
Ok Jason, I’ll try again. I deleted the two photos which were rotated. The first one, which is in my album, was fine.
I want to upload some photos from my iPad to my album, but they are coming up rotated by 90 degrees. I have tried rotating the originals by 90 degrees before uploading, but they still come out rotated!
Does anyone know how to fix this?
|Thread: Swarf damage|
Picture shows the swarf trays on my Super 7. The front one is held on with a screw into the hole normally used for the travelling steady. I think the hole is there on the ML10 as well.
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