Here is a list of all the postings Mike Crossfield has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Silver soldering cast iron|
Just wanted to say thank you again for all the advice. I used the method suggested by David and Keith using silver solder, and to my pleasant surprise it worked a treat. I tinned the 4 surfaces, clamped the two parts together, then reflowed, adding some more flux and solder. Flowed nicely and gave good strong joints. After cleaning and a coat of matt black heatproof paint the repair is almost invisible
Many thanks for all the good advice and generous offers of materials.
In the first instance I will try with the materials I have to hand, but if that doesn’t work I will be in contact with one of more if you to take up the offer!
Thanks all. I’m sufficiently encouraged to give it a go.
if the silver soldering doesn’t work out I’ll dig out the stick welder and try that with some suitable rods.
A friend has asked me if I can repair on the cast iron grid from the top of her range cooker. New parts are not available, so few options. The grid is in the form of an outside frame, with internal arms to support pans. The frame is broken in half. The section of the frame is about 12mm x12mm. There have been a few threads on the forum which suggest that cast iron can be silver soldered if it is first heated to red to burn off the carbon from the surface, so I am planning to give this try. The reason for the post is to seek out advice as to whether I am wasting my time trying to effect a repair with solder. If not, would it be better to tin the broken surfaces first, then bring them together and reheat, or to flux them and run in solder after bringing them together and heating.
Advice from anyone who has successfully repaired cast iron would be appreciated.
|Thread: Consequences of Machining Cast Iron|
I keep a bottle of Jenolite rust remover under the stainless sink in my utility room, and when I see the dreaded red spots a quick rub with a few drops on a cloth soon removes them. The key ingredient of Jenolite is phosphoric acid.
|Thread: Royal Mail Tracking Numbers!|
Like you, I have found RM pretty reliable in the past, but I had a problem with the last parcel I sent. This was about 3 weeks ago. I paid for Signed For delivery, but 3 days after the recipient received the parcel the tracking service was still showing it as undelivered. I complained to RM, and they refunded the postage cost (in stamps). First time I ever had a problem like this.
|Thread: New Chuck won’t screw on|
-Are you quite sure that the problem is with the thread? I agree that it is most likely the thread being tight, but I have seen situations where the problem was with the register on the backplate being a tinch (technical term) too small. In fact in the "old days" Myford used to supply chucks with registers which needed to be lightly scraped to suit individual spindles. Since it would be quick and easy to check by knocking up a gauge with exactly the same diameter as that of your spindle, why not try it, if only to rule this out as the problem?
|Thread: E10 Petrol|
Yet another change quietly slipped in by the government in the name of emission reductions without proper consideration.
E5 and the soon-to-be introduced E10 are gifts to the fuel companies. Alcohol is cheaper than petrol, so they make more profit/gallon. Anyone seen any suggestion of petrol companies passing any of this on to the customer - no, I thought not. Alcohol is also less calorific than petrol, so E10 gives fewer mpg, leading to more sales for the petrol companies. Win/win.
Alcohol attacks certain plastics and rubbers, so if your vehicle is more than a few years old, and wasn’t designed in anticipation of alcohol in fuel, there is a real risk of damage to fuel system components. This can be expensive and difficult to rectify. If your motorcycle has a plastic tank, watch out, it may slowly dissolve.
Alcohol also readily absorbs water, so if you use your vehicle infrequently there is risk of corrosion attacking the tank and any internal fuel pump. There are also chemical reactions which can occur creating acids which lead to bacteriological black slime creation in the tank. I’ve had personal experience of this with E5 in a classic mini, and E10 will be worse. Adding a fuel stabiliser goes some way to reducing the problem, but there is a non-trivial cost involved.
And there will surely be ecological issues involved in producing the vast amounts of cheap alcohol required.
Since petrol engines vehicles will be phased out in the next few years, wouldn’t it have made sense to leave things are they were for the interim, or at least make alcohol-free fuel available for those who need it for their old vehicles?
|Thread: Nose piece|
I use ER25 collets for holding cutters in my Mk1 DW. I use a shop-made chuck which screws on to the Myford nose. You can of course buy similar chucks ready-made. My early DW will only accommodate a 5/16 drawbar, so I have fitted simple adapters into the 3/8 inch or 10 mm threads on MT2 items like boring heads.
|Thread: Dore-Westbury Mill|
+1 for the DRO. I’ve made several improvement to my Mk 1 DW, but one of the most useful was the addition of the DRO. Space is a bit limited on the DW, but if you go for compact magnetic scales, they can be fitted quite neatly without losing any travel. Some photos in my album if you’re interested.
Enjoy your new toy.
|Thread: Gearbox and a complete set of change gears Eng/Metric for Myford Speed 10|
Hemiingway Kits sell plans for a gearbox to suit the ML10. http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/_Archibald__Screwcutting_Gearbox___ML10.html
|Thread: "TINKER" tool & cutter grinder|
Mr Tinker produced two versions of the Tinker. The standard, and the smaller and slightly simpler “Mini Tinker”. 20-odd years ago I bought a set of plans for the Mini Tinker. I can’t for the life of me remember how I got them - at the time I was travelling to and fro to the US quite a lot, so It’s possible I bought them there. Anyway, my plans changed and I never used them. I came across them during a recent tidy-up, so if anyone is interested I’d be happy to sell them. They consist of 1 x A4 sheet of Construction Notes, 1 x A4 sheet of Operating Notes, I x A4 Materials list, and 5 x A3 sheet of drawings.send me a PM if you’re interested.
|Thread: Myford ML7 & Super 7 beds|
I rebuilt an early (1957) Super 7 on an unworn bed from an ML7 capstan lathe. I believe this is the same bed used on the standard ML7. There were only 2 issues. As TB has pointed out, the Super 7 needs a new mounting hole for the countershaft arm drilling and tapping in the back of the bed. The other issue was that the mounting holes for the saddle rack were offset. I needed to drill and tap new holes to suit the Super 7 rack. Otherwise plain sailing. No issue with clearance for the backgear.
Hope this is of help
|Thread: Accuracy to be expected from a 0-1" travel DTI|
That’s interesting Clive, and exactly consistent with the dat from Mitutoyo that I posted earlier.
There is a very helpful note on the Mitutoyo website discussing the accuracy of their gauges. They state that for a plunger-type dial indicator with a range of 10mm, the total indicated error over the full travel of 10 dial rotations should be within +/- 12 microns (about 1/2 thou). I have a 0-1 inch Mitutoyo dial gauge, and 1 must say I have never been aware of any significant errors over quite wide travel ranges provided I have set it accurately and rigidly mounted. Maybe other makes are less accurate?
|Thread: Water based rust inhibitor|
I can vouch for Bilt Hamber Atom Mac. Dilute with water and spray to prevent corrosion. Very high dilution ratio, so a small bottle lasts for ages. I use it to spray the brake discs on my cars after washing to stop them flash rusting. Works a treat. Incidentally, for any car enthusiasts out there, Bilt Hamber’s other car care products are also good value. Wide range of products, and all the ones I’ve used are excellent. Their “2 speed wax” is the best I’ve ever used (and I’ve tried a lot), and their alloy wheel cleaner regularly comes top in comparative tests. Same goes for their rust removal products. Usual disclaimer - no connection just a happy user.
|Thread: Bore Gauges / Dial Gauge for ML7 Measurements?|
Regarding the tailstock, Gray also designed a very nice resettable tailstock dial. Unfortunately it is for a Super7, not an ML7, so unless you are prepared to obtain a Super 7 tailstock it’s not a solution.
If you want to measure carriage travel you don't need to go digital. Graham Meek's resettable carriage handwheel dial integrates perfectly with the lathe, covers the full travel of the carriage, and provides adequate accuracy for most tasks. Interesting project to make, or you can buy ready made. Photo of my example attached:
|Thread: Dore Westbury milling machine|
Congratulations on your DW. I rebuilt my Mk1 about 15 years ago and have been very pleased with it. Not the most rigid of machines, but very versatile. There are some pictures in my album. It would be useful to know if your machine is a Mk1 or a Mk2 because there are some important differences. In particular the reduction gearboxes are different. The Mk1 uses straight cut Myford change gears, and is lubricated with grease. The Mk2 uses helical gears and is oil filled as Brain has described. I hope you have the Mk2 because it’s a better design and much quieter in operation. I fitted a 3/4 hp motor and a VFD to my machine, so most of the time I don’t need to use the reduction gearbox.
|Thread: Jacobs Chuck run out|
I was in the workshop yesterday, and remembering this thread I thought I would check the Jacobs chuck that I use regularly with my Super 7. The chuck is a Jacobs 32mm No 34 fitted with a MT2 arbor. I bought is as new old stock 20 years ago. I fitted the chuck into the lathe spindle and fitted a piece of 5/16 tool steel into the chuck. The runout at 1 inch from the chuck was 1 thou, and at 2 inches from the chuck it increased to 2 thou. I was so surprised by these low numbers that I repeated the test several times, repositioning the tool steel in the chuck each time. The results were essentially the same within 1/2 thou. I also have a small 5/16 Rohm chuck on a MT2 arbour, so I repeated the tests with this chuck using a piece of 1/4 tool steel. The figures this time were 1 1/2 thou and 2 thou at 1 inch and 2 inch from the chuck respectively. Finally I tested a Chinese 13mm keyless chuck which I bought from Chronos a few years back. This was essentially as new because I have only used it a couple of times. The figures for this were 4 thou and 6 thou.
So my conclusion, apart from being very pleased with the accuracy of my chucks, is that the new Jacobs chucks you purchased are defective.
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