Here is a list of all the postings magpie has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Help what is a fair price|
Wait until Adam Stevenson is better, and advertise on the Homeworkshop site. I have never failed to sell and get a fair price on there.
|Thread: South Cheshire Model Engineering Society Annual Gala|
Would the organizers like me to bring my clock if I can persuade a mate to bring me. ???
|Thread: Greetings from Music City, USA! (Nashville, Tennessee)|
Welcome to the forum. You should find plenty to interest you here, and lots of advice on any problems you may have regarding model engineering. Lots of clubs around the country hold open days to show of their efforts, but there are 3 main exhibitions each year. The northern one is in Doncaster early in the year, another is in the midlands later in the year, and one in London close to the new year. I am sure some members will add more info about them.
For places to visit re the industrial revolution, most are in the north and midlands and it would take a very long time to list them all. I hope you do come over again and enjoy our very rich heritage.
|Thread: ARC Euro Trading Great service|
Always had great service from Arc. Ketan is a top bloke.
|Thread: Home Workshop Site|
Add another to those wishing Adam a very speedy recovery.
|Thread: Searching for an Off-The-Shelf, Light-Duty, Rack & Pinion|
A timing belt, a strip of metal, and some super glue.
|Thread: Finally sort of know which lathe to buy, but?|
Very well explained Silly Old Duffer. I have had my Chinese build lathe & mill for quite a few years now, and they have done everything I hoped they would and trouble free. The lathe came with 3&4 jaw chucks, backplate, steadies, centres, toolpost, everything you need except the cutting tools. The only extras I have bought for the lathe are a quick change toolpost and lots of holders, none of which I would want to be without now.
If using insert tools, once you have set centre height in each holder that is then fixed, when you change the tip it is still spot on. A great time saver.
This forum is a great place to get advice on just about any subject you can think of, however, you will get as many different answers as you get posts. When I first bought my machines, both made in China, I had never used a lathe or milling machine before so I was a complete novice. Much of the advice I was given was not really relevant to the things I wanted to do, so I just went my own way and learned which was the best way for my needs.
So far I have had no real problems and I have enjoyed the learning process. As with any hobby, the results will depend on your skill level, patience, and whatever you consider to be a good finish. Keep on asking the questions and be prepared to ignore a lot of the answers.
|Thread: Saying hello from Cheshire.|
Welcome to the forum Tommy, from another Cheshire bloke. I too have built a clock, but just the one and I doubt I will ever build another. The build thread for mine is in the clock section, and you will see why I doubt I will ever do it again.
|Thread: Unknown object|
It's a fingymajig.
|Thread: Finally sort of know which lathe to buy, but?|
Are you suitably confused now Coggy ?
Hi Coggy. I am none to clued up on Myfords, the only thing I know about them is that the original company went bankrupt and the name, and some of the stock was bought by RDG. Any new spares will no doubt come from China as does most of the items sold by RDG. There is talk of them producing new lathes, but where these will be built is anyone's guess. I have owned a Chester DB10 V for many years now and had no trouble with it whatsoever.
Re must have accessories. Apart from the obvious cutting tools, I would recommend a quick change tool post, and a live centre for the tailstock. You will need change gears if you intend thread cutting, but a decent lathe should come with a set. A gearbox will bang up the price quite a lot. Steadies will only be needed if you intend working very long, or very small dia work.
I am sure you will get plenty more advice for other members, as the Myford is a very popular lathe amongst the forum members. Good luck with you quest.
|Thread: ROY FROM WIGAN NEW MEMBER|
Welcome to the forum Roy, and to a very expensive hobby. Well worth the expense though as long as the wife can turn a blind eye.
|Thread: Rounded Torx Screw Removal|
I think a lot of the problems with mangled screws, Torx, Phillips, Hex, Etc. is caused by dirt in the recess which prevents the driver from full engagement. Even when the dirt is finally cleaned out, the upper section of the recess has been rounded so there is now less surface area for the tool to grip. I see this happen so often and think when are folk going to learn, clean the dammed recess first.
Having said all of that, I do think that the recess in the Torx screws the Blue Heeler is referring to are often very shallow.
With the tool well supported, try using a small punch to hammer the screw head into shape, the lots of downward pressure whilst turning.
Just my two pennys worth.
|Thread: Fibre optic clock|
Sorry James. I never thought to take any. However the mate who owns the Austin took these photos of a Bentley I did some work on at about the same time. I thought you might like this car, although lying on my back fixing the wiring and dash was not my idea of a fun time.
Thanks for the compliments Howard.
Hi again James. The health problems come with old age, and in my case are self inflicted to a certain extent as I smoke 20 cigs a day. However that has nothing to do with a collapsed vertebrae which has caused far worse problems that the cigs. I just had to reply to your comments because as a retired Rolls Royce coachbuilder I get asked to do lots of jobs on cars. Just before my recent health problems I helped a mate to do a complete restoration on...…. an Austin Seven Special.
Thank you Neil. Health is not too bad, but not expecting too much improvement from here on in. Close to 79 now and things don't mend as fast as they used to.
Hi James. I hope you are still there. Sorry for the very long delay in answering but ill health has kept me off the site for a good while. The clock is driven by a synchronous motor which rotates various cylinders through ratchets and cams. The cylinders contain LEDs and a series of holes, as the cylinders rotate, the fibre optics are exposed in sequence to the light from the LEDs through the holes. I hope this makes sense, not sure if it does to me though.
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