Here is a list of all the postings Les Jones 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: edm machines|
I have built an EDM machine based on the bits of information I could find on the web about Ben Fleming's design. It is the capacitor discharge version as I could not fined enough information on his pulse version. (I was too mean to buy his books.) It works quite well.
|Thread: Crabtree B15 3 phase Stop / Start switch|
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 17/02/2019 14:34:14
I don't see the point of of trying to use this starter on the input of the VFD. If you want to put an emergency stop button on the input to the VFD such as this one will be easier than trying to modify your existing 415 volt starter. The start and stop buttons will be connected to the low voltage control terminals on the VFD. (Some VFDs may require a small low voltage 12 or 24 volts relay as well as the two buttons)
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 16/02/2019 20:08:43
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 16/02/2019 20:09:50
|Thread: Problems with NVR switch|
The lamp should be connected to L1 and L3 which are the two phases that feed the solenoid. I think you should put some markers on both ends of each of the red wires so you know which are the real phases and which is the ghost phase.
If the light only works when the machine is running I think you have it wired to the output side of the contactor . (The side connected to the motor.) The incoming three phase from the static converter should be connected to the three lower connections (L1, L2, L3) and the motor connected to the three top connections. (A, B, C) If you have it connected with the incoming three phase to the top three terminals I don't see how it could have worked as there would be no power (From L1 & L3.) to power the solenoid. Can you post a diagram of how you have connected it showing which terminals are connected to the three phase from the static converter, which terminals are connected to the motor and how you have connected the start and stop buttons ? (I can't see any wires that look like they go to the start and stop buttons.
Is there a transformer between where the black cable comes out of the bottom right hand gland of the NVR and the lamp ? I think it is very unlikely that the bulb runs directly of 400 volts. (I am making the assumption that the static converter contains a 240 volt to 400 volt transformer and the motor is wired in star configuration for 400 volts phase to phase and not in delta configuration for 240 volts phase to phase.)
I suspect that a thermal overload has tripped and needs resetting.The round knob on the right looks like it could be to set the thermal overload trip current. I expect there to be something in that area that needs resetting. I would also suggest measuring the resistance of the solenoid coil in case it has gone open circuit. (I am thinking it could be a 240 volt coil which is intended to be powered between a phase and neutral but has been connected to be powered between phases.) You could also check that all safety interlock switches are closed and that the stop buton is not open circuit. (The stop button will be normally closed contact that opens when pressed.)
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 14/02/2019 18:28:10
|Thread: Telephone / Internet Scams|
Update on the scam call I had on 13/02/19.
A couple of days ago I had a phone call claiming to be from BT. They first call was from 01807603475 which I ended as it sounded like a scam. They then rang back from 02085876419 and spent about half an hour trying to convince me it wasn't a scam. They wanted me to go to this url "www.btsecurityservice.weebly.com". The fact that the format was very similar to my weebly website (www.lesjhobbies.weebly.com) convinced me it was a weebly website made to look like it was a BT website so I ended the call.
|Thread: Aluminium black|
It it possible that it is designed to be used on anodised aluminium as the anodised surface can be dyed.
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 10/02/2019 18:14:52
|Thread: Keyway cutting|
This is a very crude thing I made to move the saddle backwards and forwards for slot cutting in the lathe. It avoids putting too much load on the rack and pinion.
The lever pivot part is clamped to the lathe bed with blocks of wood and lengths of threaded rod.
|Thread: Occasional usage Sand blaster|
|Thread: AM25LV mill wiring|
One side of the stop button should be connected to one side of the start button. I think this point will be connected to 13NO on the contactactor, I think the other side of the start button will be connected to A2 on the contactor. The other contact on the stop button will go to the last item in the chain of reverse switch, chuck guard switch emergency stop switcch. Can you check if this is the case ?
One thing you could try is to connect the live feed to 3T2 via a 100 watt filiment bulb, Disconnect the wire from 4T2 and tape up the end. (This is so the motor can't start ) You could then see if the contactor would pull in and all the interlocks work. If they did then it should be OK to connect the live feed to 3T2 and re connect the motor.
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 07/01/2019 18:14:34
|Thread: Chester 10vs lathe 3 phase upgrade ....should i do it|
1200 watts is about the same as 1.5 HP so you are not gaining any extra power. Changing the drive ratio as suggested by Bazyle will give you more torque. An alternative way would be to use a two step reduction as on the Chester DB-10G lathe. This is a picture of my lathe before I fitted a three phase motor.
I had to make a new toothed belt pulley and three step pulley as the shaft on the three phase motor was a slightly larger diameter. Remember if you reduce the speed of a motor (DC or three phase.) you have also reduced the power. So if you run your 1200 watt motor a a quarter of it's rated speed it will only be capable of producing 300 watts of mechanical power. (About 0.4 HP.)
|Thread: chester conquest pcb board connections|
I have found this link that seems to show the same board, There should be two wires from the reversing switch that connect to the motor via the reversing switch. Verify you have the correct ones with resistance measurments. These will connect to A+ and A- on the board. I You connect them the wrong way round the motor directions will be reversed. If this is the case just swap them over. The live from the mains fuse (Yellow ?) will connect to L1 The neutral from the on/off switch will connect to L2. The slider on the potentiometer connects to P2 The wire from the clockwise end of the potentiometer connect to P1 The wire from the anticlockwise end of the potentiometer connects to P3 I suspect that you will have one wire over. I suspect that this will go to the the connector near trimmer R3. I don't know what that connection is. ( On your picture it looks like a green wire goes to it.) You will have to trace where the extar wire goes to to work out what it does.
|Thread: My ford lathe problem!|
|Thread: chester conquest pcb board connections|
You need to go to albums, (On the top of the page on the same line that you use to log in.) Then create an album and then upload the oictures to you album. From the box where you type a reply you can then insert the pictures by clicking on the camera button at the top of the reply box.
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