Here is a list of all the postings Les Jones 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Glass cutting|
I would try using the type of tile cutter that uses a diamond cutting disk that is kept wet in a tray of water. It will be quite slow but I think it would be more reliable than the scoring methods.
|Thread: How hot does the motor on your mill/lathe run?|
On the assumption that it is a single phase motor one possibility is that the centrifugal switch is not opening when the motor is up to speed. Before doing anything to the machine wait to see what Warco say about about the motor temperature.
|Thread: Current leakage om CNC|
I second Johnboy25's comment to do exactly what Joe has advised. Do not use the machine until this problem is resolved.
Vasantha Abey's comments are total nonsense
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 25/08/2019 09:32:14
|Thread: M4 x 0.75mm pitch CSk machine screws|
I agree with the others that they are probably 3BA. This is one source on ebay. but there is than one match searching for "3BA screws.
|Thread: Need a lot of help from you good people|
I think those motors are WW2 vintage motor/generators. I think if you remove the perforated metal cover on the right hand end you will find there is a commutator that end that originally was the high voltage output. I can't see any brush housings that end so they have probably been removed as they are not required when just used as a motor. Another thing that might have made you think they are faulty is they are probably shunt wound (Rather than permanent magnet.) so they would need a supply to the field winding as well as to the brushes at the left hand end. I think the small motor at the bottom of your last picture is a compressor as you can see a cylinder and cylinder head on the left hand end of it.
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 19/08/2019 22:08:37
|Thread: Clarke CL251mh Milling Attachment Wiring Help|
From your description of the external magnetic field from the motor it is a permanent magnet motor. These are DC motors. DO NOT connect it to an AC supply as doing so is likely to demagnetise the permanent magnet and burn out the winding.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Cut a helix on the mill using the rotary table and a right angle drill attachment. The right angle drill attachment was a lazy way to get a right angle drive.
|Thread: How to wire if forgotten, Myford help me.|
I had not realised that you had taken the motor apart and found that one end of each of the two windings was jointed where the transition was made between the enamelled wire and the flexible wire. I assume the picture in this mornings post is with the thermal cut out disabled. I have not seen this type of motor with an internal thermal overload. They normally rely on thermal overload current sensors on the main contactor.
|Thread: Three phase motor checks|
Don't you have any friends with a megger that could check the insulation between the windings and case for you ?
|Thread: Faulty LED|
Are you sure that the socket for the tail light and the stop light are the same ? Some car bulbs are single centre contact. On these the connections are the single centre contact and the outer metal. The other type are small bayonet type and they have two have two contacts. The outer metal is not used as a connection on that type. There also combined stop and tail lights that use two contacts and the metal casing but you do not seem to have any of that type.
|Thread: pc based dro|
There is a design that uses and android tablet which sound like what you want to do using a PC. I think the same basic idea could be used on a PC if you want to write the software. It was done many years ago with the "Yadro" DRO. This used a PC running DOS rather than Windows or linux. This is a link to the DRO running on an Android tablet.
|Thread: Universal T milling machine from Chester : Issue with Starting|
Did you get 24 volts AC on the secondary of the 24 volt control transformer and the coil of KM1 ?
First check that you have 24 volts AC on the secondary of of the 24 volt control transformer. I think it is the one at the top right of the control box. I can't see the labels clearly so can you take a properly focused picture (Or pictures.) of the control box with your camera pointing straight at it. (Not looking down at an angle as in your picture in your first post.) If you have 24 volts on the output of the transformer then check if you have 24 volts AC across the coil of KM1. (This contactor should be closed except when the emergency stop button is pressed.)
|Thread: Power Feed on Bridgeport not working.|
Here is the schematic.
Here is a link to a post on another forum that is related to an Erskine power feed. It contains a schematic which should help tracing the problem. You may have to join the forum to view all of the information. If that is the case let me know and I will post the schematic here.
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 23/06/2019 08:58:32
|Thread: DIY magnetic DRO|
|Thread: DRO Z-Axis /4th axis "combiner"|
Code intended for an arduino nano with the following wiring:
The only other connections will be the power to the Arduino.
You will have to make sure that the signal level from the scales is the same as the signal levels on the version of Arduino that you use'
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 27/04/2019 08:42:47
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 27/04/2019 08:43:14
I built a similar device many years ago for my Seig X3 mill and find it very useful. Mine works with the original Chinese scales (2 x 24 bit protocol). Mine is based on a Pic16f628 with a 4 line by 20 LCD display, It displays the reading from each scale and the sum of the readings.
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