Here is a list of all the postings Les Jones 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Chester DB8|
Just click on the camera button. (The next to last on the top line.)
Have you measured the length of the belt path round the pulleys ? This would be a good approximation to the belt length.
Edit. I have just noticed your last post that you gave the number of teeth on the pulleys. These are the same as on the DB-10G.
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 09/01/2021 15:40:16
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 09/01/2021 15:41:17
|Thread: VAT changes post Brexit|
I ordered one of these this morning as a result of LINK REMOVED (I also ordered a set of 15 ER11 collets for about £12.00) I too was wondering if there be additional charges when it arrives.
Edited By JasonB on 09/01/2021 06:57:51
|Thread: Chester DB8|
Brian has said that a different length belt with the 1.5 pitch part of the specification seems to fit the pulleys.
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 07/01/2021 20:25:43
Many thanks Jason for explaining that. (I never even thought of dividing the measured pitch (In mm) by Pi.) The thread that Michael linked to suggests that the DB8 belt has 124 teeth. As Brian has given the diameter of the pulleys if he tells us the number of teeth on one of them we should be able to tell if the 1.5 pitch belt is the correct one.
The belt for the DB-10G is called a 1.5 * 124 * 15. I think this is the same belt that is used on a DB8 lathe. I think the 1.5 part is related to the pitch but it does not seem to have any simple relationship with either metric or imperial units.
For comparison with the DB-10G the the small pulley (On the motor) has 19 teeth and the OD is 28.1mm. The large pulley has 90 teeth and the OD is 134.25 mm The distance between the pulley centres is 154mm.
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 06/01/2021 22:25:42
You can thread some string or tape round the two pulleys to get a rough idea of the length and measure the width of the pulleys to get a rough idea of the belt width. you may even have a piece of the belt that was still intact enough to measure the tooth pitch.
As John says if you measure the belt length, width and count the number of teeth there will be a much better chance of identifying the belt. I have a Chester DB-10G and it is just possible that it uses the same belt.
|Thread: Myford super 7 lathe tripping consumer rcd|
Andy. That is a good theory.
|Thread: Wiring for Parvalux Geared Motor|
I think John's and Nick's diagrams are probably correct. They are both functionally the same. The fact that the mains polarity is shown different does not matter. (Either way is OK.) If the motor rotates in the wrong direction then swap the power wire to the other white wire. (That is the Live in John's diagram. The neutral in Nicks diagram.) If you want to know what the thin black wires are then you will have to dismantle the motor. I can see three possibilities. They could go to a thermal fuse, A thermistor for monitoring the temperature. (This is not very likely on an old motor,) They may also may go to a centrifugal switch which disconnects the start winding when the motor gets up to speed. If it is a centrifugal switch it is faulty as it should measure almost zero ohms when the motor is stopped.
|Thread: home made forge|
I have made a waste oil burner for my furnace using a Hago Delavan syphon nozzle.
|Thread: Reverse Sewing Machine Motor?|
If you can open the motor it should be possible to reverse it. The mains is fed to one end of each field winding. the other end of each field winding is connected to one of the brush holders. To reverse it you need to swap over the connections between the field windings and brushes. This will probably involve extending the wires from the field windings to reach the opposite brush holder. It is possible that there are also small RF chokes and capacitors fitted inside the motor to reduce interference. If this is the case you will probably have to post pictures of the inside of the motor so we can tell you if this has any bearing on the way you swap over the connections.
|Thread: ML7 toolpost - Turns Under Load|
You could try my suggestion by making a washer out of some thin metal. The hole size would be the diameter of the outer edge of the three grub screw holes.
Looking at the marks from the engineers blue in your post at 16:09 today the items are making contact more towards the centre. If the same clamping force was applied near the edge of the block it would have more effect at preventing rotation. I think I would be tempted to take a skim off around the centre of the tool post so that the edges were making contact.
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 14/11/2020 16:59:21
Is the threaded post a larger diameter at the bottom than the threaded part ? If so are you sure that the tool post block is not clamping against the step on the post rather than the top of the top slide ?
|Thread: Sieg Milling Machines|
I have a Seig x3 milling machine and am totally satisfied with it. I bought this (And other items.) from Arc euro trade and found them a very good company to deal with.
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/11/2020 16:56:26
|Thread: LED Constant Current Source Scheme|
I have used cheap step up switching voltage regulators (Based on the LM2577S) modified for constant current output. This is a link to the modification **LINK**
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